Paris Couture Fashion Week 2022 launched a battle between being conservative and radical. We can see Balenciaga’s hi-tech diving suits, Iris Van Herpen’s pioneering pieces, Chanel and Giorgio Armani Prive’s nod to the pas, and of course, the ethereal and gorgeous pieces of Elie Saab.

To evoke a world of endless possibilities and childlike wonder, Mike Amiri chose the beautiful Jardin des Plantes in Paris to unveil his Spring/Summer 2023 collection that once again demonstrates his sense of showmanship and affection for handcrafting. Always a cross between West Coast casual and European chic – his collection is now made between the U.S. and Italy – his suits look so light, helped by the weight and grace of jersey, while the blazers are deconstructed and cut casually – their seams removed to free up traditional shapes and create flouncy volumes inspired as much by sportswear as by stagewear.

The utilitarian sophistication of ’90s minimalism has always resonated for Barrett, who has a background in sharp military tailoring. For Spring 2023 he riffed on the consistency of his wardrobe’s strongholds, referencing an urban uniform look and clean-cut, smart sportswear. Inspired by military attire made for extreme weather conditions, garments were structured and engineered to let the body breathe.

POP Fashion discovers accessories from Spring/Summer 2023 runway shows in Paris, Milan and London. We can see retro fashion, modern casual and futuristic sporty trend in buttons, zippers and accessories. Buttons and zippers maintain the connecting function and develop the ornamental quality. Metallic chains and ornamental buttons are not the exclusive elements for athleisure anymore. The mixes with men’s businesswear show great visual conflict.

Presented in the cobblestone courtyard of the historic Via Gesù home of the fashion house’s founder, Gianni Versace, in Milan, the Versace Spring/Summer 2023 collection was full of color and verve. Donatella Versace dug into the archives and pulled out prints her brother Gianni created for La Scala productions in the 90s, a logo from the early 2000s or the frozen-in-lava death masks of Pompeii, all of these revisited archival motifs splashed across t-shirts, silk shirts and pants, alongside stripes, diamond-shaped cut from leather made in eco-sustainable latex and powerfully colorful python prints. The latter, now replacing exotic skins, with fluorescent accents appeared on trench coats or pants. These new eco-friendly fabrics definitely marked the brand’s entry into the era of sustainability.

Founded by Japanese designers Shinpei Yamagishi and Keisuke Kosaka in 2011, the fashion label Bed J.W. Ford is exploring creative designs and harmonious layers to create the unique elegance. Shinpei Yamagishi was once a shop assistant in a famous second-hand fashion store in Tokyo, and he carried an marvelous aesthetic with him. Going against the trending subcultures, Bed J.W. Ford maintains themselves on the road toward being elegant and light-handed.

S/S 2023 Milan Fashion Week(June 17th to 21th) included 28 offline runway shows, 24 still-life exhibitions, 5 digital releases and 21 brand culture events.

For Gucci's Cosmogonie Fashion Show, creative director Alessandro Michele transported the fashion set to Castel del Monte where he presented a sparkling collection of 101 looks exploring the idea of past and present. Rooted in writer Hannah Arendt’s devoted essay on her friend and philosopher Walter Benjamin, Gucci’s Cosmogonie considers the past and how it is reflected in the present. Michele’s collection enveloped both romanticised mediaeval monikers with multi-layered pearls, starched ruffs, and heavy velvets, as well as modern fashion history – demonstrated in crimped hair and oversized sunglasses of the 80s.

With the popularity of cross-border e-commerce in China, the share of fast fashion womenswear brand is also increasing. We can see from the data of offline and online stores that ZARA and MANGO are the most welcoming brands while SHEIN is the top cross-border e-commerce. There shows a well balance between fabric appearance and practicality. This report will focus on the TOP10 fabrics in S/S 2022 and the hottest fabric of each clothing category to inspire the development in fast fashion market.

This report introduces the smooth texture fabrics on Fall/Winter 2022 womenswear runway shows. The lustrous crisp silk is the hottest trend; soft satin features the fluid textures; driven by the concept of metaverse, futuristic mercerization will trend upward in the market; gorgeous casual fabrics prefer active styles; luxury velvet pays more attention to textures; fabrics with metallic luster are also essential for streetwear brands.

Emporio Armani released the fall 2022 collection at Milano Fashion Week. Themed ‘The Rhythm of Color’, Grayish menswear and bright womenswear formed contrasts. Sheer, silk, and velvet developed cocktail dresses in bright colors. Lustrous, matted backless minidress also displayed charm. On the other stage, menswear played a symphony about grays and showed smart modernized overcoats and jackets.

F/W 22/23 men’s collection was the debut after Zegna dropping “Ermenegildo” from its original name. The artistic director Alessandro Sartori drew inspirations from roads and created a new collection: ‘A Path Worth Taking’. The Zegna road originates in the mountains, and crosses Oasi Zegna, the free-access natural territory in Piedmont, Northern Italy, also known as 232. Designer explored the contemporary fashion in a gentle yet firm way. The practical, comfortable, and alternative wardrobe redefined the traditional formal wear and underlined the seamless connection between indoor and outdoor lives.

Working with architecture name OMA, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons reimagined the Deposito of the Fondazione Prada into a stage for the exhibition of Prada‘s Fall/Winter 2022 men’s collection. Dubbed “Body of Work,” the seasonal range investigates “theater and cinema as mirrors of reality.”

Launched at the Quai de la Tournelle in Paris, S/S 2022 Chloé runway was cooperated with many charities to underline the social responsibility of the brand and the fusion of environmental protection and creativity. This show about love interpreted the free and unlimited Bohemian spirit. Chloé Craft was also officially introduced to launch more hand-made products in the future. This collection applied regenerated wool, hand-cut plant-dyed leather and soft linen. The usage ratio of lower impact material reached 58% this season. Various sewing, weaving and whipstitching techniques have been appeared. Petal-pattern crocheted dress, knotted slip dress made of strips of leftover fabric from seasons before, and whipstitched leather renew and inherit the classics.

Cruise 2022 womenswear runways presented dazzling colors and rich fabrics. As the color trend of this season, acid bright colors allowed joyous design to sweep the market. Lime green, wax pink, lilac purple and sunset blue encourage the emotion. According to the analysis of international Cruise 2022 womenswear runways and the catwalk data of POP Fashion, delicate and premium tweed and colorful suit fabric are the main fabrics. Soft-touch and smooth 3D lace embroidery shows a high proportion. Smooth silk with bright and draped appearances and the futuristic shiny leather are noteworthy as well. Natural cotton-linen leisure fabric and impactive 3D decorations will also become the mainstream in the future.

Totême's design has won consumers' appreciation for its preciseness and neatness. The lifestyle built by the brand reflects the brand's design tonality -- European minimalism. In the A/W 21/22 collection, the achromatic tone of black, white and gray incorporates the neutral tones such as warm brown and water blue, which makes the design gentle and low-key; The matching of cardigans and workplace suits is simple and neat, understated and elegant; the great basic items have strong versatility, which can help build a causal and fashionable wardrobe.

Ermenegildo Zegna S/S 2022 collection was started with a charming film. Running in the narrow space till it comes to a vast vision, EZ's THE (NEW) SET interprets the present through the conversation between human and nature. Innovative designs provide the world with brand new styles. Zegna always subverts the tradition and brings surprise. Bold color application and fabric combination in this summer change the conventional structure of ready-to-wear and show the harmonious flexibility.

Inspired by the art styles of African culture, Daily Paper perfectly combines the African styles with modern street styles. The collection this season, Future Roots, salutes to the African heritage and history through new-developed fabrics. Asymmetric outerwear, all-over pattern and bright yellow and blue colors enrich the whole collection.

A/W 2021 Burberry collection is the first independent menswear collection since the combination of menswear and womenswear in September, 2016. The brand creativity rebuilds the Burberry flagship store on Regent Street and provides a realistic watching experience. The new theme ESCAPES praises the spirit of outdoor exploration. It is inspired by the longing for outdoor and pretty nature during the lockdown period. The collection salutes to the creativity and imagination through free expression and classic rebuilding. The tailoring design in the new season contains many playful interpretations of Burberry's classic elements. Badges and decorations are used to underline the ritual sense and symbolize the community, friendship and belongingness. Polar fleece overcoat and bionic hat brim imply the original appearance of nature. The repeated tassel hem is combined with classic pattern and print, showing the primitive feeling of Scottish nomads.

Wooyoungmi is a Korean homonymic designer brand founded in Paris in 2002. And the founder Wooyoungmi is the first Korean female menswear designer. The brand put its position into the international market, westernized and bold. The designer advocates for the shared-wardrobe concept, and the gender-free element is applied throughout the whole brand. Since Wooyoungmi went to Paris in her early career, there are some Paris elements in the products. And it is also the first Korean brand performed at Paris Fashion Week. Wooyoungmi has the menswear perspective with unique heterosexual thinking and creativity. "The core of design comes from architecture" is one of the inspiration sources inspired by Wooyoungmi's father who was engaged in architectural design.

Aleksandre Akhalkatsishvili is the homonymic designer brand founded in 2017, headquartered in Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia. And it is the common figure of the rising Eastern-European fashion these years. The designer is good at deconstruction, and his works have minimalist silhouettes, fluent lines and show both grace and power. The regrouped deconstructed silhouette and minimalist twisted lines are the symbols of Aleksandre. And the monochrome is the main style. Leather is also a common element, the combination of tough linear silhouette and graceful details forms the gender-neutral style.