Rational data analysis and sensible fashion trends change recommendations bring you a comprehensive and complete analysis of global market changes.
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Overcoat -- The TOP Ranking of Womenswear
According to the TOP100 downloaded overcoats in July and August, 2022, J-Korean(39.5%) is trending upward, while Simple Sophistication(22.6%) and Elegant Lady(14.4%) reveal decrease. Loose fits and A-line coats are the most noteworthy silhouettes. Hemming and slit are the popular crafts which take the share of deconstructed cuts.
Body of Work -- The Analysis of PRADA The Luxury Menswear Brand
Photographer David Sims captures the Prada Fall 2022 campaign for both men's and women's collections. The luxury Italian house's Fall/Winter 2022 campaigns pair with intention a still-life of an object with each model/talent. The chosen totem has deeply personal meaning and relevance to the individual Prada protagonists in the campaign collages. The campaign is centered around "offering windows on human life, expanding their narrative." The men's campaign includes actors Damson Idris, Jeff Goldblum and Rami Malek.
Illusaits -- The Analysis of ZIGGY CHEN The Menswear Designer Brand
ZIGGY CHEN is the namesake label of the Chinese emerging designer Chen Xiang. The Shanghai Xintiandi branch is the first concept store that integrates womenswear, menswear and household supplies in China. As a Shanghai-born designer, Ziggy Chen takes inspiration from the collision of extreme cultures: old and new, east and west, antique and modern, probing the coalescence of Chinese origins and minimalist aesthetics to create innovative garments. 2D tailoring in traditional Chinese garments can be surprisingly found in his menswear design. Elements from different countries and times are incorporated for harmonious and practical pieces.
Rebellious Preppy -- The Analysis of Rokh The Womenswear Designer Brand
Subverting expectations has been Rok Hwang’s strength ever since launching his label Rokh in 2016. The Korea-born, United States-raised designer moved to London to study at the prestigious Central Saint Martins, completing a Womenswear MA under the tutelage of the legendary Louise Wilson before cutting his teeth as a ready-to-wear designer for iconic Parisian houses Céline, Louis Vuitton, and Chloé. Since setting out on his own, the LVMH-nominated designer has garnered a loyal industry following for his inventive and elegant interpretations of women’s staples. Rokh’s subverted classics represent a meeting point between opposites: fragility and boldness, functionality and luxury, masculine and feminine. Hwang’s technical expertise appears in the clever constructions and meticulous cuts of the label’s signature deconstructed trench coats.
Strange Math -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton Men’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection, named Strange Math, is set on pure imagination, which is at the heart of the Maison’s ethos. It explores the relationship between imagination and reality and brings together creative minds into the ecosystem that welcomed Virgil Abloh back in 2018, and that strives for creatorship, craftsmanship and showmanship.
Chaotic Neutral -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of We11Done
We11done’s FW22 collection is a “chaotic neutral” space where nothing is off limits, and opportunities are endless. The South Korean label’s newest show is inspired by a dichotomy between 17th century renaissance details and futuristic minimalism - two aesthetics that could be polarizing in theory, but somehow appear synchronous.
Practical Commuting -- The Analysis of Maison Margiela The International Womenswear Brand
Maison Margiela has released its newest bag, dubbed the New Lock. Donning a double-sided silhouette, the purse is highlighted with a turn lock at the front, indicating whether the bag is locked or unlocked. The lock is offered in two combinations — a blank space when unlocked and “ENGAGED” text when locked; and one featuring Margiela’s numeric coding when unlocked and “IN USE” lettering when locked. The adornment is accompanied by a gold chain strap. The John Galliano-designed piece, which comes with two separate compartments for added practicality, can be styled as a crossbody or belt bag.
Elegant Minimalism -- The Analysis of Nehera The Womenswear Designer Brand
NEHERA is an independent Slovak brand that revived the heritage of the famous Czechoslovak brand that flourished in the 1930s and made history worldwide in the integration of design, production, and retail. Relying on creativity and innovation to create exceptional fashion that remains elegant, regardless of the evanescent trends. In a fashion world obsessed with MORE, NEHERA uncovers the beauty in LESS. NEHERA is opening its first boutique store, a place that embodies the brand’s philosophy. True to its cosmopolitan heritage, the store opened its doors in the city of Vienna. Located at Bauernmarkt 8, 1010 Wien, the NEHERA store is designed to create an intimate and elegant fashion experience.
Overcoat -- The TOP Ranking of Womenswear
According to the TOP100 downloaded women’s overcoats from April to June, Simple Sophistication is the most noteworthy style as Youthful Elegancy has trended downward; comfortable H-line silhouette takes the place of X-line; heterogeneous splicing and the use of accessory are the most potential crafts.
Gucci Cosmogonie -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of GUCCI
For Gucci's Cosmogonie Fashion Show, creative director Alessandro Michele transported the fashion set to Castel del Monte where he presented a sparkling collection of 101 looks exploring the idea of past and present. Rooted in writer Hannah Arendt’s devoted essay on her friend and philosopher Walter Benjamin, Gucci’s Cosmogonie considers the past and how it is reflected in the present. Michele’s collection enveloped both romanticised mediaeval monikers with multi-layered pearls, starched ruffs, and heavy velvets, as well as modern fashion history – demonstrated in crimped hair and oversized sunglasses of the 80s.
The Lost Tape -- The Analysis of Balenciaga The Luxury Menswear Brand
Balenciaga has unveiled its Fall 2022 collection, presenting “a message from the past about what could have been and never was.” The collection — titled “The Lost Tape” — draws on the late ’90s, celebrating the spirit of raw ideas that ran throughout fashion in this period. Creative director Demna — who announced he would now be known by only his first name — mixed historic motifs with new silhouettes. This includes a bell-shaped parka combined with travel pillow, trench coats crossed with bathrobes and a three-piece silhouette constructed from five-pocket jeans. Throughout the collection, tailoring is deconstructed, underwear waistbands are shown and wrap closures are finished with oversized safety pins and other DIY-style fastenings.
Avant-Première -- The Analysis of Maison Margiela The Menswear Designer Brand
John Galliano has recently unveiled his Maison Margiela Resort Spring/Summer 2022 collection. This season, Galliano re-invents the slouchy silhouette with an expansive range of outerwear. At a glance, the collection is filled with an overwhelming number of coats, right for any occasion. Whether it is for formalwear or the countryside rainy weather, the pieces excite the tactile and visual senses with their soft yet structured silhouettes. Galliano’s effortlessly chic aesthetic is prominent throughout the spring clothes, or as the house prefers to call it the Avant-Premiere line.
Embrace the Difference -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Andersson Bell
Launched in Seoul the year of 2014, the brand “Andersson Bell” began from a Creative Director, who got an inspiration from contrasting two different cultures of Korea and Scandinavian. Andersson Bell was launched by reinterpreting Scandinavian vibes to create new objects from a point of Korean's view. F/W 22/23 collection maintains the practical functionality and also embraces the differences between genders, races and cultural backgrounds.
The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Woolen Fabric
Woolen fabric is the most important fabric in autumn and winter, which is presented mainly in the form of overcoat on A/W 22/23 runway shows. Fine texture is the mainstream. Shearls and woolen blends create smooth and exquisite tactility of the surface; Variegated tweed shows yarns in new colorways and the blending with other accessories; The plush of furry fabrics is thermal in winter. Wool and mohair present a napped visual effect; Yarn-dyed gingham also updates the colorway in this season.
Diverse Layers -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of 3D Embellished Fabric
3D embellished fabrics occupy a larger proportion on A/W 22/23 runway shows. Valentino’s 3D fringes, flowers and sequined embroideries lead the fashion trend. In the boom of technology, futuristic embellishments are also noteworthy. This report focuses on the trend of shiny sequins, virtual technology, feather fringes and extravagant embellishments.
Wild At Heart -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of GREEDILOUS
GREEDILOUS was a brand founded by the designer Youn Hee Park in 2009. The designer is good at injecting surreal patterns into her fashion design. A/W 22/23 collection, themed ‘Wild At Heart’, presented a mashed-up aesthetic that is resilient, alluring, and ironic. We can see avant-garde printing throughout the collection, which reflected the concept of surrealism.
Leather & Fur -- The Comprehensive Runway Analysis of Womenswear
According to the data analysis of A/W 22/23 ‘Big Four’ fashion weeks, mink reveals a decrease, while faux fur, shearling and cashmere are trending upward. For items, leather jackets and trenches dominate the market. We can see from the new collections that designers pay more attention to practicality and comfort. Multi-occasion silhouettes and extremely comfy designs have been the key factors.
The Rhythm of Color -- The Runway Analysis of Emporio Armani
Emporio Armani released the fall 2022 collection at Milano Fashion Week. Themed ‘The Rhythm of Color’, Grayish menswear and bright womenswear formed contrasts. Sheer, silk, and velvet developed cocktail dresses in bright colors. Lustrous, matted backless minidress also displayed charm. On the other stage, menswear played a symphony about grays and showed smart modernized overcoats and jackets.
Lighthearted -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Hermès
Continuing the lighthearted air, Hermès released the A/W 2022 womenswear collection. The artistic director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski drew equestrian elements from the brand DNA and injected slim-fit tailoring into the clothing design. The use of knitted fabrics allowed the restraint air to be sexy and cool. The whole collection, especially the leather treatment, still reflected the fine artisanship of Hermès. These innovative pieces on the runway expressed the personality of wearer and the unique French romance.
Fashion Rewilding -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Chloé
Fashion house Chloé has revealed its Autumn/Winter 2022 collection, with a environmental message of “Rewilding.” Infusing fashion with nature, the collection looks to integrate the “rewilding” approach, which is to let nature restore damaged ecosystems itself. Climate disasters like scorching deserts and melting icecaps dot the runway alongside sleek silhouettes. Accessories have been recycled or are pulled from the natural world—talismans and jewelery come with natural gemstones such as amethyst, labradorite, red jasper and rhodonite. The environmentally conscious brand boasts a 56% make-up of lower-impact materials within its ready-to-wear-collection, up 21% from the year before.
Modernistic Magic & Mystery -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Max Mara
Max Mara pays homage to a creative polymath whose oeuvre was overlooked for decades, and is now rediscovered. Architect, dancer, textile designer, painter and sculptor, Sophie Taeuber-Arp was that rare thing; a modernist who invested even the most everyday objects with a sense of magic and mystery. Griffiths took cues from Tauber-Arps 18th century magnum opus, The King Stag, where woodland folklore and marionette dolls shine.
Back to the West Coast -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Amiri
Amiri released his fall collection for the first time in Los Angeles – his hometown. Inspired by a special journey, Mike Amiri focused on the creative spirit from the art community in L.A. and cooperated with the contemporary artist Wes Lang to explore the expression of California. This collection perfectly fused American artisanship with culture and art creation. With the languages from the two creators, an unconventional story was told.
Leather & Fur -- The Comprehensive Runway Analysis of Menswear
At the ‘Big Four’ Fashion Weeks in the post-epidemic era, big names released their latest men’s collections from a brand-new perspective. Men’s leather and fur applied understated classic silhouettes and practical details to provide casualwear for consumers.
A/W 22/23 Milan Fashion Week -- Recommended Brands(Part One)
From January 14th to 18th, there were totally 53 brands who released their new collections at the A/W 22/23 menswear Milan Fashion Week. Although multiple famous brands canceled their fashion shows offline because of the epidemic, the Fashion Week was still noteworthy. Designers realized the importance of positive mood and found a way to stimulate people’s desire and attention.