Spring/Summer 2023 Paris Fashion Week(June 21 to 26) included 84 exhibitors and 76 physical shows. Famous designers returned to the show and enlivened the Paris Fashion Week.

Lemaire is a French designer brand founded by Christophe Lemaire, the former creative director of Hermes, and Sarah-Linh Tran in Paris in 1991. They opt for high-quality fabrics to develop versatile pieces for daily lives. Centering on minimalism, designer uses soft earthy tones and loose cuts to create a Parisian wardrobe that can not be defined by time and trend.

Spring/Summer 2023 Paris Fashion Week(June 21 to 26) included 84 exhibitors and 76 physical shows. Famous designers returned to the show and enlivened the Paris Fashion Week. Notably, the former designer of Dior Men and Saint Laurent - Hedi Slimane - took his new collection back with Celine to close the fashion show.

For Sacai Spring 2023 collection, the designer and founder Chitose Abe renewed her signature deconstruction and played with traditional silhouettes and materials with an informal attitude. The tailored fabrics from Loro Piana developed tight-fit dresses and all-in-ones. Womenswear was joined by sheer liners. The corsetry details paid homage to the brand heritage. As an important design language of Sacai, crinkles were designed to be daring and multi-dimensional. Graffiti master Eric Haze brought slogans such as ‘One Kind Word’ and ‘As One’ to deliver the spirit of unity and friendship.

Emporio Armani took to the Milan Fashion Week stage to unveil its refined Spring/Summer 2023 collection, officially dubbed “A Basketful of Summer." "Summer is defined by lightness, in attitude and spirit lightness as immediacy and the sheer joy of living and dressing for the season: choosing clothes and accessories to throw on without too much thought,” the official collection notes read. “This collection by Emporio, the brand that Giorgio Armani has always seen as a container of possibilities, resembles a wicker basket, full of surprises that will bring the holiday spirit to the city and give any holiday the appropriate fresh and composed feel.”

The Spring/Summer 2023 Menswear collection by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons is an expression of curated processes. The practice of design - of fashion - is one of decision-making, curation alongside creation. The tools of this collection are direct, recognizable, archetypal pieces – suits, overcoats, sweaters, shirts, denim, leather. Known garments are reinvented through context. There is always a complexity of thought behind apparently simple results, a process of refinement to uncover the fundamentals of dress.

Pre-fall 2022 collection is dominated by earthy browns, camels and khakis. Printed leaves and maps express the longing for a free journey to approach the nature. Tenderer colorways and all-matching pieces continue the British style and complete a pretty and practical pre-fall collection.

John Galliano has recently unveiled his Maison Margiela Resort Spring/Summer 2022 collection. This season, Galliano re-invents the slouchy silhouette with an expansive range of outerwear. At a glance, the collection is filled with an overwhelming number of coats, right for any occasion. Whether it is for formalwear or the countryside rainy weather, the pieces excite the tactile and visual senses with their soft yet structured silhouettes. Galliano’s effortlessly chic aesthetic is prominent throughout the spring clothes, or as the house prefers to call it the Avant-Premiere line.

According to the TOP100 downloaded women’s trench coats in March and April, J-Korean and Simple Sophistication are the most popular styles, followed by Cotton-linen(11.6%); H-line(72%) is the dominating silhouette in the market; deconstruction and splicing show color blocking on trench coats.

Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto is famed for putting an androgynous, directional spin on traditionally feminine avant-garde designs, and pioneering the fashion-meets-sportswear aesthetic. This is how Yamamoto’s signature dark designs and draped tailoring have impacted how we dress today. Yamamoto’s signature aesthetic, which hinged on all-black, body-engulfing designs, put a new spin on tailoring and stood out among the cinched waists, shoulder pads and bold block colours that ruled the 1980s fashion scene. In an era of rainbow brights, a dark colour palette had the shock factor.

Jil Sander is known for the restrained aesthetics and neat lines. Abandoning all the extra details, ruched cloth wraps the body without zippers and buttons. A little clip and bias cutting accentuate the structures. The neutral colorways and modern fabrics of Jil Sander is the most persuasive path to the minimalism.

With the popularity of cross-border e-commerce in China, the share of fast fashion womenswear brand is also increasing. We can see from the data of offline and online stores that ZARA and MANGO are the most welcoming brands while SHEIN is the top cross-border e-commerce. There shows a well balance between fabric appearance and practicality. This report will focus on the TOP10 fabrics in S/S 2022 and the hottest fabric of each clothing category to inspire the development in fast fashion market.

Woolen fabric is the most important fabric in autumn and winter, which is presented mainly in the form of overcoat on A/W 22/23 runway shows. Fine texture is the mainstream. Shearls and woolen blends create smooth and exquisite tactility of the surface; Variegated tweed shows yarns in new colorways and the blending with other accessories; The plush of furry fabrics is thermal in winter. Wool and mohair present a napped visual effect; Yarn-dyed gingham also updates the colorway in this season.

3D embellished fabrics occupy a larger proportion on A/W 22/23 runway shows. Valentino’s 3D fringes, flowers and sequined embroideries lead the fashion trend. In the boom of technology, futuristic embellishments are also noteworthy. This report focuses on the trend of shiny sequins, virtual technology, feather fringes and extravagant embellishments.

We can see from the A/W 2023 runway shows that practical functional fabrics are applied on all categories. Classic voluminous cotton is continued; comfy & soft surface and diverse blend have been trended upward; crisp paper-touch fabrics and original textures are the trending fabrics. Performance cotton and blend are the main parts to show diversified temperaments and styles.

Margiela Resort 2022 is inspired by Galliano’s latest “Artisanal” collection, a co-ed Spring/Summer collection that was an ode to the post-pandemic youth. Through the medium of film, Galliano transports viewers into a disruptive disposition, filled with illusions on a meta-level. The uniqueness of Galliano’s vision for the Resort collection trickles down from the desirable and dramatic aesthetic from the Artisanal collection.

Traditional and classic fits were rebuilt in a bold and eye-catching way to show youthfulness and sensory enjoyment. The campaign is kept in line with the new theme. These daring silhouettes and details reflected models’ confident attitude. Menswear and womenswear collections were displayed from multiple angles to present the duality of Burberry. The further exploration of identity reinterpreted the temperament of modern people, and accented the power of self-expression.

Max Mara A/W 2022 collection paid homage to Sophie Taeuber-Arp’s work and drew inspirations from Dadaism to develop dramatic pieces. Resort 2022 collection embraced the spring by Whitney Bag’s fresh tones. The technical knitted fabrics of 101801 Light coat were presented in dreamy pastels.

According to the data analysis of A/W 22/23 ‘Big Four’ fashion weeks, mink reveals a decrease, while faux fur, shearling and cashmere are trending upward. For items, leather jackets and trenches dominate the market. We can see from the new collections that designers pay more attention to practicality and comfort. Multi-occasion silhouettes and extremely comfy designs have been the key factors.

F/W 22/23 men’s collection was the debut after Zegna dropping “Ermenegildo” from its original name. The artistic director Alessandro Sartori drew inspirations from roads and created a new collection: ‘A Path Worth Taking’. The Zegna road originates in the mountains, and crosses Oasi Zegna, the free-access natural territory in Piedmont, Northern Italy, also known as 232. Designer explored the contemporary fashion in a gentle yet firm way. The practical, comfortable, and alternative wardrobe redefined the traditional formal wear and underlined the seamless connection between indoor and outdoor lives.

Working with architecture name OMA, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons reimagined the Deposito of the Fondazione Prada into a stage for the exhibition of Prada‘s Fall/Winter 2022 men’s collection. Dubbed “Body of Work,” the seasonal range investigates “theater and cinema as mirrors of reality.”