Ecological Duty -- The Comprehensive Analysis of A/W 23/24 Première Vision Paris

Roanjane, a kidswear designer brand from Korea, is one to watch for pure colors, exaggerated ruffles and layering designs. Unisex style and mashup are also recommended. The designer informs contrast colors and employs sophisticated tiny accessories to brighten up every fashion item.

This season takes minimalist luxury and creative vision as the central theme. Accessories with different styles interpret the bad taste for aesthetics, whose mashups are also confusing yet charming. Meanwhile, the profound history backgrounds reflect the contemporary eclecticism.

Driven by the boom of pursuing casualness, traditional silk and satin still present visual enjoyment and also offer more low-impact selections. Regenerated polyester, cupro and viscose fibers are blended to give more possibilities. Crinkled surface and jacquard textures develop more comfortable silk.

According to the TOP100 downloaded men’s down jackets in June, Smart Casual is the dominating style, followed by Street Fashion. Padded coat and jacket are the main silhouettes; light matte nylon is the leading fabric; for crafts, quilting and patchwork draw attention; patch pockets and detachable details are trending upward in the market.

Japanese fishing label Daiwa introduced DAIWA PIER39 in 2020 as its more fashion-forward branch under the direction of Shinsuke Nakada, who cut his teeth at BEAMS. Within two years, it's become on of Japan's hottest young brands. This lineup is crafted upon the concept of "building a bridge between the great outdoors and the city." With DAIWA PIER39 originally being a fishing brand, they have slowly made their way into the culture with their urban tactical wear. Designed for people who love the urban lifestyle.

The outdoor active fabrics on Digital Première Vision focus on the ecological protection from materials to post-finishing, such as the blending of organic cotton and synthetic fibers and the use of bio-sourced coating. Elasticity is another important factor for outdoor sports. Stretchy synthetic fibers and recyclable regenerated fibers expand the developing direction. Textured fabrics as peach-skin fabrics, cotton twill, sleek jacquard and rip-stop fabrics present innovative visual experiences.

According to the TOP100 downloaded men’s T-shirts and polos in June, Smart Casual is the most important style in the market, followed by Streetwear and Business Leisure; Unisex also shares a part of the market. Pattern design in June focuses on printed and embroidered logos. For crafts, panelled details, patch pockets, badges, appliques and topstitches are the trendy elements.

Warmth and fashion are the best interpretation of this Digital Première Vision. Solid structures, fine yarns, smart lustre and canvas have both soft touches and shapes. Sleek corduroy and napped skin-friendly cotton are also the most welcoming fabrics for winter outwear and trousers. The use of organic cotton and recycled cotton meets the trend of sustainable development. Shirting is driven by the casual lounge style. Distorted tartan is paired with warm colors; smart jacquard and sleek fancy yarns update the visual effect of classic houndstooth; soft chambrays develop garments for both city and countryside.

Woolen fabric plays an important role at Fall/Winter 23/24 Digital Première Vision Paris. Glossy velvet and plush wool give warmth and luxurious textures; undyed raw weaving expresses the desire for nature and primitiveness. Stretchy wool and soft flannel redefine freedom. Fancy yarns are added into classics to interpret the creativity.

Founded by Japanese designers Shinpei Yamagishi and Keisuke Kosaka in 2011, the fashion label Bed J.W. Ford is exploring creative designs and harmonious layers to create the unique elegance. Shinpei Yamagishi was once a shop assistant in a famous second-hand fashion store in Tokyo, and he carried an marvelous aesthetic with him. Going against the trending subcultures, Bed J.W. Ford maintains themselves on the road toward being elegant and light-handed.

The printing design at A/W 23/24 Digital Première Vision Paris sources inspirations from the great natural world. Designers interpret the diversity of plants and animals through their artistic languages. Digital techniques update the prints to present artistic leaves, digital flowers, wild ditsy florals, botanic camous and geometric shapes. The hand-painted touch of childlike landscapes, painted vegetation and fresh flowers pays homage to the nature. The comeback of Medieval wallpaper and motifs of Morris rediscovers the era of Art Deco.

In 1998, Hirofumi Kiyonaga set up the garment company SOPH.co.,ltd. and established its eponymous label SOPH. (Sophisticated Philosophy). In 2002, the brand was renamed SOPHNET. The brand is under the concept of French minimalism, focusing on neat designs and high-end fabrics. This year in 2022, the breaking news that the manager would resign on June 30 hit the Japanese fashion industry.

Less is More -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Korean Menswear Market

Founded in 2008 - Covernat is South Korean based label that focuses on simple, classic attire inspired by the legacy of Americana and Japanese clothing. The label has since become a staple in the Korean market, often catching attention thanks to new progressive collections and an array of collaborations each season. Well known for their sleek silhouettes and wearable designs, Covernat is also known for specialising in denim inspired by just before and after the industrial revolution.

Glamb is a Japanese fashion brand founded in 2003, featuring the grunge-based street fashion. We can see plenty of grunge elements, checked shirts and distressed jeans among its productions. The brand concept - ‘Grunge for Luxury’ - also reflects the love for grunge music. Owning over 50 stores in Japan, Glamb is a unique Tokyo-based fashion house that fuse pop cultures allover the world with exclusive Japanese cultures.

Unaffected was founded by the Korean designer Dong Ki Lee. Different from the branch brand EASTLOGUE, Unaffected focuses on the urban leisure with the base of American traditions. They embody the thought that ‘we wear what we want’ far from being restricted to something specific.

Meanswhile is a Japanese menswear brand founded by Fujisaki in 2014. With the concept that “clothes are a tool”, designer maintains the fashionable features and shows great functionality. The use of special materials and industrial elements is noteworthy.

According to the data analysis of TOP100 men’s sweatshirts in May, Streetwear(34%), Smart Casual(23%) and Unisex(20%) are the main styles; Athleisure(6%) and Avant-garde(6%) are also noteworthy. In this month, the design of sweatshirt focuses on letter patterns, patchwork, appliques and stitched details. Besides, mock-layered design is also welcoming in the market.

Japanese designer brand TRNKA wants “to improve the daily lives of parents and children a little bit.” Occasion wear designer PIERLOT packs clothes with devices to make every day even more exciting. “Light weight, made for movement, and easy to care for.” Smart looks and functional designs will give kids a stressfree day.

The Korean kidswear designer brand Apricot Studios is founded by a womenswear designer who has been a father for the first time. Developing for kids of 6 months to 5 years old, designer selects unique colors and materials to create comfortable loungewear that helps children’s growth.