POP Fashion gets a comprehensive view of Spring/Summer 2023 runway shows and releases the latest trend of international brands. Themed ‘Escapist Holiday’, this vacay-centric report introduces the following four thematic styles.

BLUEMARBLE is a menswear label founded by Anthony Alvarez in 2019, the brand is based in Paris, France. Anthony launched Bluemarble, promoting the individuality in each of us to a universal level. At the heart of Bluemarble lies the commonality between world cultures through the vibrancy of youth. He embraces his recollections and embarks on a voyage that celebrates life and the singularity of people. Notes, images and memories from Anthony’s travels are translated into garments which have already garnered popularity among his friends and celebrities worldwide.

Junya Watanabe Man is a namesake Japanese fashion label founded in 1993, which is known for its creativity, avant-garde ideas and exquisite techniques. Junya Watanabe tries advanced fabrics, raw cutting and drapability in his experiments, and it is exactly the inspirations of his creative works and bold performance. S/S 2022 collection explores the originality of artists from allover the world to express brand’s fashion attitude.

This report mainly puts emphasis on the patterns of womenswear runways, and compares the proportion of each mainstream element and style in S/S 2022 and S/S 2021. Plant pattern remains the dominating position on S/S 2022 womenswear runways; folk patterns, European-style patterns, and human figures trend upward, while animal stripes and linear patterns present a decreasing trend. Notably, the wallpaper-style floral pattern is also appeared frequently on the latest runways.

Sustainable Fashion becomes the hottest topic in the recent years. As the world second polluting industry, all the brands want to join in environmental protection, and try to develop and transform. A green storm is coming, and the eco-friendly fashion is rising. The following brands are the representatives of sustainable fashion field. Couture houses like Ganni and Stella McCartney, and new-emerging brands like Nanushka and Bode are sparing no efforts in the sustainable fashion cause.

The Playtime E-show this year was held online during February 10 to February 12. Based on the sustainable environmental design concept, this Playtime show demonstrated every environmental fashion brands through the recommendations of magazine, blogger and fashionista. And diverse eco-friendly design styles were presented by streaming.

A/W 2021 Chloé collection was launched on time in Paris Fashion Week at 8:30 p.m. on March 3(Beijing Time). It's the first collection of the new creative director Gabriela Hearst. Several trailers were released before the runway officially, the warm colors and mottled light and shade indicated the languid and thermal tonality this season. This runway show was launched through a creative short film, and models came out of the cafes on the streets of Paris with a strong sense of rhythm. The background music of the short film is produced by Juan Campodonico, the four-time-winner of the Latin Grammy Awards. On the basis of electronic sound, it integrates Latin American folk music with strong sense of rhythm and dynamic drumbeats. Models crossed the zebra crossing and came to the main catwalk, a wide slate road. Inspired by the sustainable concept, creative director Gabriela Hearst uses 30 new looks to interpret the Chloé girls with environmental duty. It is a show of environmental protection. Not only the natural runway, over 50% of silk comes from organic agriculture and over 80% of knit cashmere yarn is recyclable. Minimalist monochrome jewelry reduces the pollution of electroplating process. And the liner of handbags uses natural linen cloths.

Chuli is an original Kidswear Hanfu brand. Its brand name Chuli means cultivating kids through traditional culture and accompanying them to grow like trees. The brand aims at making improved designs based on the traditional silhouette to let the kids feel the traditional culture and increase their national identity and etiquette.

Traditional Japanese ditsy flowers, rustic natural dyeing in low saturation and conventional circular patterns run through the entire collection and emphasize both comfort and natural folk patterns. The style itself becomes the focus and makes a relaxing visual effect.

Due to COVID-19, this year New York Fashion Week has been shortened from the usual eight days to four, and fewer than 10 designers hold physical shows for their latest collections. Despite the severe condition in New York, many brands still hold fashion shows offline, which reveals the determination of the whole fashion industry to survive and return to happiness. Many designers draw inspiration from the relationship between man and nature, and some put the show in the woods. Beautiful flowers and nature-inspired patterns characterize this season. In the meantime, people are stuck at home, and they have a growing demand for home decorations. Therefore, diverse and eco-friendly concept is also warmly welcomed in S/S 2021. This season features exaggerated expressions, such as the big bowknot, spreading ruffles and dramatic hem designs, as well as various joyful colors which represent hope and rebirth.

The British brand STORY mfg. returns with its S/S 2021 lookbook, and names it "Fil Mish-Mish" (Arabic), which literally means when apricots bloom and indicates something impossible. Here STORY mfg. refers to its difficult challenges. This collection is quite special, because it aims to offer support and covers as many as possible operations, people and friends. This collection displays products mixing with novel technologies and natural dyestuff.

Based on its symbolic eclecticism, Doublet's the latest series has a theme of We Are The World and draws inspiration widely. In addition to designer Ino Masukiuki's good memories of the family restaurant, this collection also hosts celebrations for different cities, languages, souvenirs and troll dolls. Moreover, Doublet also launches a brand-new series of hand-drawn food patterns.

Akihiko Kimura graduates from Bunka Fashion College, and founded his personal design brand LOKITHO. With a design concept of "For Witty Women", the brand draws inspiration from females daily wearing. It makes use of traditional Japanese cutting techniques, focuses on the finish and fabric quality, and centers on the exquisite style and fabrics. It delivers a romantic luxury feel which is rare among Japanese independent designer brands.

KAPITAL is a Japanese folk style brand founded in 1984. It is good at combing avant-garde designs with traditional clothing manufacturing crafts, and dedicated to creating its own individual aesthetics. FLARE STAR, its S/S LOOKBOOK, is photoed in Vietnam. According to the LOOKBOOK, this season KAPITAL continues its original style, takes cues from Chinese Kongfu culture, blends with American retro clothing collocation, and adopts traditional techniques such as tie-dye and Sashiko, thus providing a series of products nodding to martial artists.

In S/S 2020, benchmark brands of girls' dresses feature fashion leisure style and rune arts. The ethereal gauze dress is a highlight. GXG.kids and Mini Peace improve the Chinese style dress, showing different charm. MQD and Balabala employ individual splicing to add novelty. little MO&Co designs a different back, injecting vitality to conventional dresses.

The A/W 20/21 collection of Fendi kicks off with the psychedelic sound of Alessandro Cortini, Nine Inch Nails's keyboardist. This time Silvia Venturini, the creative director of Fendi, performs the theme of Gentle Power through the combination of structure and softness, and showcases the liberation of wearable female power. This season plus-size models join the catwalk lineup for the first time. The high-waist of the crisp overcoat and the well-fitting dress accentuates female form, which echoes the pink streamlined catwalk. Retro lantern sleeves run through the whole series. Color-blocking and contrasting of classic elements fully display the role switch between boudoir and meeting room. The strap boots with sheepskin cushion and satin high-heeled shoes highlight the vampire-like enchanting temperament, in line with the theme of boudoir. The waisted design, military outerwear with flare sleeves and the crisp fabric present the powerful temperament of females in the meeting room, quite emotional. Fendi's aesthetics balances between sexiness and calmness, toughness and softness, gentleness and power.

Bode, a New York fashion brand founded in 2016, is an environmentalist against "overproduction". Designer Emily Bode advocates sustainable fashion. He is good at reusing waste clothing and old fabrics. The old clothing is added by embroidered patch and splicing or quilting to reproduce ready-to-wear for each season. This design technique of reusing retro textiles for new designs can create exciting items, and lead to Bode's unique nostalgic aesthetics.

Daalarna is a Hungarian wedding dress brand with a focus on feminine charm and timeless elegance, known for its modern and unique design. The designer, Anita Benes, uses clean and delicate appearance and unique design to cater to individual modern women who dare to be fashionable and to pursue quality. The new season, "Folk Bride", adopts convenient dress and unique lace to bring unconventional and modern design. Cotton and linen fabrics are integrated to cater to the sustainability trend.

According to the data analysis of TOP 100 downloaded women's dresses of POP users from December to January, retro girly elegance and simple & sophisticated style become key styles. The dress of resort style grows quickly. X-line and H-line are mainstream silhouettes. Puff sleeves and gigot sleeves draw much more attention. Splicing and crinkles still gain much attention. Ruffle is still the key to dress for S/S 2020.

According to the data of designer brands in the second half of 2019, we select the TOP 30 kidswear designer brands and analyze them from proportions of mainstream styles, key items and design details. From the TOP 30, we can see Chinese designer brands gain more and more attention. The influence of Chinese designer brands such as Qimoo, miidiitapir and Viciusss is growing. Emerging design holds the largest part. The popularity of retro and elegant style endows delicate romantic designer brands with higher attention. Avant-garde fashion brands and the relaxed sports style get steady attention. The cotton & linen style and folk style gain the minority.

Japanese popular brand KAPITAL, formerly known as denim garment factory, has been managed by Tohikiyo Hirata for more than 30 years. It is also known by fans as the best among Japanese national brands. KAPITAL integrates traditional techniques and gradually forms a new niche culture, creating a strong and unique brand style.