Fall/Winter 2023 Paris Men’s Fashion Week completed the six-day fashion shows on January 22. 79 fashion brands released their new collections in Paris, and nearly 50 of them walked the runway. Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent returned to the official schedule of Paris Fashion Week after 7 years, and displayed its new releases on the opening day; Maison Margiela closed out the fashion week with a co-ed show.

Founded in 2013 as a multi-disciplinary creative unit, Guerrilla Group acts as a platform to counteract trending conformity that does not exist as a brand. Echoing between sci-fi and functionality as a framework for research and design, GG attempts to subvert military garments into utilitarian everyday wear. The primary objective is to rework and facilitate each garment to adapt with imminent conditions.

A culture of research, experimentation and usability are the matrixes that have always defined Stone Island; the brand, established in 1982, destined to become a symbol of extreme research on fibres and textiles applied to innovative design. Each Stone Island piece is born from the perfect synthesis between experimentation and usability, between the study of fabrics and rationality. The study of uniforms and of workwear, its evolution according to new functions of use, becomes Stone Island’s observatory for defining a project where the clothing’s purpose is never just purely aesthetic.

PERFORMANCE DAYS is making it possible for designers, product, purchasing and material managers to meet up twice a year in a familiar and professional environment. POP Fashion digs into the functional fabric fair and gives you analysis reports on three directions: wovens, knits and accessories. This report focuses on functional woven fabrics' materials, performance and appearance.

This report puts emphasis on the application of patterns on womenswear runways. Based on the comparison between S/S 2022 and S/S 2023, Flowers & Plants and Checks & Stripes are still the hottest elements. Leopard spots, zebra stripes and python motifs are presented in bolder colors. Ethnic motifs and scenery paintings are trending upward. The share of Chinoiserie elements is also rising.

This report puts emphasis on the application of patterns on womenswear runways. Based on the comparison between S/S 2022 and S/S 2023, Flowers & Plants and Checks & Stripes are still the hottest elements. Leopard spots, zebra stripes and python motifs are presented in bolder colors. Ethnic motifs and scenery paintings are trending upward. The share of Chinoiserie elements is also rising.

Ibrahim Kamara was named the Image and Art Director of Off-White in April, and now he has debuted his Spring/Summer collection ‘Celebration’. The Spring Summer 2023 collection approaches the cusp of something new, where the unknown gives us the freedom to imagine boundless possibilities. A celebration of life, progress, and new work in process.

In 2007, with the world as his stage Juun.J debuts his namesake label during Paris Men's Fashion Week to great acclaim. By deconstructing traditional ideas in menswear, Juun.J quickly establishes himself as the most innovative designer to watch during fashion week. The year 2012 marks another momentous year for Juun.J as he becomes part of Cheil Industries to truly become global and meet the demands of his following. Juun.J's decidedly modern approach to design is deeply rooted in his masterly knowledge in classic tailoring where he shatters old notions to create new silhouettes. Largely inspired by youth and street culture Juun.J aptly calls this 'Street Tailoring'. His avant design and classicism with his precise tailoring will no doubt continue to be a tour de force in the evolution of menswear.

POP Fashion digs into the Spring/Summer 2023 men’s runway shows and figures out the most important crafts. Embossed effect, folk braiding, fine carving, 3D flowers, bead embroidery, gorgeous matrix, textured applique and broken patterns are the key points. Fringed edges and faded surface are the recommended fabric techniques. Besides, irregular pleating, overlapping, metallic eyelets, curved cuts and romantic elements are also eye-catching.

ENSHADOWER was founded in 2012 by several FIXEDGEAR students who were originally interested in building a casual wear brand. Its original intention is to provide comfortable and functional clothing for street sports enthusiasts. The brand design style has obvious futurism, science and technology and functionality. Sports elements are also skillfully combined with fashion sense to fully show contemporary young people's interest, fashion and attitude towards life.

POP Fashion keeps eyes on Spring/Summer 2023 runway shows and digs into the latest fashion trends. The theme ‘Tear the Matrix’ is divided into four styles: Futurism, Avant-garde Orient, Sporty Streetwear and Restless Summer.

The utilitarian sophistication of ’90s minimalism has always resonated for Barrett, who has a background in sharp military tailoring. For Spring 2023 he riffed on the consistency of his wardrobe’s strongholds, referencing an urban uniform look and clean-cut, smart sportswear. Inspired by military attire made for extreme weather conditions, garments were structured and engineered to let the body breathe.

White Mountaineering is a Japanese outdoors-inspired label founded by Yosuke Aizawa after years of working as Junya Watanabe's assistant at Rei Kawakubo's COMME des GARCONS. As one of the few designers who adhere to outdoor styles, Aizawa expresses the perceptions and emotions about life through his design. The brand concept lies in the imaginative integration of design, utility and technique and a focus on patterns, colorways and tailoring. It fuses pragmatism with a retro aesthetic to create pieces with high-quality fabrics, structured silhouettes and a high-tech performance. Besides collaboration with UNIQLO, the brand also teams up with GRAMICCI, Danner, and Barbour to release cooperative collections.

Engineered Garments was founded by Daiki Suzuki in New York in 1999, after taking inspiration from his years buying for the Nepenthes stores in their early stages, and combining it with his own vision. As a brand, the aim is to make garments that become more personal through the experiences you have with them. They value unique garment construction with attention to detail, with meaning and hidden qualities behind each design. They venture into conflicting themes, straying from “perfect design”.

Moncler’s F/W 22/23 collection draws inspiration from the optimistic and positive attitude of the mountain explorers. Urban high-rises are regarded as towering mountains to abandon the hustle and bustle in the city. Durable products are made to protect customers from coldness. The flamboyant collection with a hint of avant-garde accent is one to watch for trans-seasonal items.

Technical sport fabrics are presented frequently on S/S 2023 runway shows. Classic Smooth, Lustrous Nylon, Performance Filming and Textured Surface are the four fabric styles. The application of technical sport fabric is mainly focusing on jackets, down jackets and trousers.

Copenhagen-based label Heliot Emil has presented its Fall/Winter 2022 collection, focusing on ideas of uniform across all of the pieces. Titled “Solitary Uniform,” the collection is described by the label has an attempt to redefine what uniform means, and the contradiction between the independence of being “solitary” and the unity of wearing a “uniform.”

Founded in 1977, Helmut Lang is an American corporation making high-end ready-to-wear for man and women. Helmut Lang, a pioneer in street fashion, is known for his stripes, space metals, uniforms and minimalist style. He draws inspiration from bullet-proof vests, keeps experimenting with fabrics and updates military motorcycle jackets with high-end fabrics, which has continued to inspire contemporary designers.

Spring/Summer 2023 Paris Fashion Week(June 21 to 26) included 84 exhibitors and 76 physical shows. Famous designers returned to the show and enlivened the Paris Fashion Week.

Rains a Scandinavian label founded in 2012. Its collections blend a conceptual-meets-functional design approach, a strong urban inspiration, and a signature fabric identity. Rains brings its neo-Scandinavian aesthetic, unisex collections, and consistently surprising curation to consumers across four continents. Spring/Summer 2023 collection ‘Connect’ explores underground connection and the power in being seen and heard. Subcultural synthesis fueled by the universal conduit of music - the most powerful connector. The pulse that drives a composition of color and form - movement and expression.

Meanswhile is a Japanese menswear brand founded by Fujisaki in 2014. With the concept that “clothes are a tool”, designer maintains the fashionable features and shows great functionality. The use of special materials and industrial elements is noteworthy.