The genderless BIOMIMICRY collection saw men and women embrace extreme cut-outs, nipple-revealing sheer and chainmail handbags. Even the most miniature of mini skirts weren’t just reserved for the toned legs of Dion Lee ladies. Some designs resembled skeletons with ribcage-like fabrications and architectural silhouettes, while others looked ready to battle bad guys … and big waves, such as the black neoprene wetsuit. Perhaps, a homage to the Sydney-native’s former sun and surf lifestyle.

As a comment on the pace and rush of fashion, Do titled his collection Time. “I was thinking about how we always seem to be running out of time in this industry. As a designer and brand, we are always living in the future and never in the present. This collection marks a period where, for the first time in a while, I feel present; where I’ve slowed down to savour those important moments in life.” His reflections manifested in what he called the “fundamentals” of his brand: The deconstruction of garments, a focus on the convertible wardrobe and transparency. Do played with androgynous codes in the exaggerated fits and volumes of suits, magnified classic shirts and exploded them into buoyant coats.

Ulla Johnson Spring 2023 collection drew inspirations from Bryan Lavelle’s bright and saturated abstract paintings. Bryan explores the features of acrylics and oils. The layering and gradually adding the work’s surface forms a patterned and textured aesthetic.

POP Fashion digs into the Spring/Summer 2023 runway shows and the releases of international brands to introduce a business casual-based theme: Detached Gentlemen. The theme is further divided into four styles: Urban Function, Minimalism, Morning Awakening and Italian Classic.

With only a few, short years in as a burgeoning design label, Charaf Tajer’s Casablanca has shown no signs of slowing down. For Spring/Summer 2023, the brand upped the ante in Paris and utilized a horse pen stage setting to showcase its western-inspired collection. Working from three different themes – Vaqueros, Phantastica and Nature & Architecture – Tajer presented distinct clothing elements based on an overarching “Future Optimist” approach.

It was in the lush garden of a bourgeois high school that Glenn Martens unveiled Y/Project‘s collection, which features the brand’s signature elements, from asymmetrical tops cleverly structured by pressure plays to tank tops (and draped dresses) suspended from invisible nylon threads, to extremely large creations with sculptural and ironic shapes, between drapes, undulations and strange blisters. There are also trompe-l’oeil prints, initiated during Glenn Martens’ successful collaboration with Jean-Paul Gaultier.

LVMH Prize semi-finalist and upcoming Pierre Bergé prize nominee, Anthony Alvarez, has been making strong headway within the international menswear space. For Spring/Summer 2023 his Bluemarble label presented sophisticated leisure that put soft fabrications and rich colorways at the forefront. Alvarez’s collection included matching sets of half-zip short-sleeved sweaters and shorts, fitted jackets, exterior pocket trousers and relaxed denim.

Paris Couture Fashion Week 2022 launched a battle between being conservative and radical. We can see Balenciaga’s hi-tech diving suits, Iris Van Herpen’s pioneering pieces, Chanel and Giorgio Armani Prive’s nod to the pas, and of course, the ethereal and gorgeous pieces of Elie Saab.

According to the data analysis of pattern elements on Spring/Summer 2023 men's runway shows, stripe element has trended upward clearly; color blocks and cartoon elements are also increasing; besides, geos, checks and argyles are also essential. On Spring/Summer 2023 runways, letters, flowers and ethnic elements decrease a little bit, while handicraft is still a noteworthy point.

POP Fashion keeps eyes on Spring/Summer 2023 runway shows and digs into the latest fashion trends. The theme ‘Tear the Matrix’ is divided into four styles: Futurism, Avant-garde Orient, Sporty Streetwear and Restless Summer.

To evoke a world of endless possibilities and childlike wonder, Mike Amiri chose the beautiful Jardin des Plantes in Paris to unveil his Spring/Summer 2023 collection that once again demonstrates his sense of showmanship and affection for handcrafting. Always a cross between West Coast casual and European chic – his collection is now made between the U.S. and Italy – his suits look so light, helped by the weight and grace of jersey, while the blazers are deconstructed and cut casually – their seams removed to free up traditional shapes and create flouncy volumes inspired as much by sportswear as by stagewear.

The utilitarian sophistication of ’90s minimalism has always resonated for Barrett, who has a background in sharp military tailoring. For Spring 2023 he riffed on the consistency of his wardrobe’s strongholds, referencing an urban uniform look and clean-cut, smart sportswear. Inspired by military attire made for extreme weather conditions, garments were structured and engineered to let the body breathe.

POP Fashion gets a comprehensive view of Spring/Summer 2023 runway shows and releases the latest trend of international brands. Themed ‘Escapist Holiday’, this vacay-centric report introduces the following four thematic styles.

According to the data analysis of men's knitwear on S/S 2023 runway shows, vests and polos have trended upward clearly; T-shirts and pullovers also share a bigger proportion; cardigans and knitted sets reveal a decrease in this season.

Presented in the cobblestone courtyard of the historic Via Gesù home of the fashion house’s founder, Gianni Versace, in Milan, the Versace Spring/Summer 2023 collection was full of color and verve. Donatella Versace dug into the archives and pulled out prints her brother Gianni created for La Scala productions in the 90s, a logo from the early 2000s or the frozen-in-lava death masks of Pompeii, all of these revisited archival motifs splashed across t-shirts, silk shirts and pants, alongside stripes, diamond-shaped cut from leather made in eco-sustainable latex and powerfully colorful python prints. The latter, now replacing exotic skins, with fluorescent accents appeared on trench coats or pants. These new eco-friendly fabrics definitely marked the brand’s entry into the era of sustainability.

Taking to Milan, the Caten duo Dean and Dan have showcased DSQUARED2’s vibrant Spring/Summer 2023 Menswear collection. Paying homage to the Bob Marley Foundation, the collection features everything from 70s-inspired outerwear to the symbolic use of colours in the Jamaican flag (yellow, black and green). In an additional collaboration with Honda motorcycles, Dsquared2 combine their Marley inspiration with two starkly contrasting personas; the relaxed surfer and the rambunctious biker. And while a junction between the musical legend and the motorcycle company may seem a little odd at first, there’s actually a deep-rooted vein that joins the two together in perfect harmony – the designers aimed to symbolise both the vibe and rebellion of Marley’s time, surf culture, and 1970s Jamaica.

For men’s knitwear on S/S 2022 runway shows, heterogeneous splicing, embroidery and distressed detail are trending downward; the combination of smudged dyeing/tie dyeing and stitching presents an outstanding performance; the use of bright color contrasts underlines color matching and hem piping; tassels, rhinestones/beads and necklines will be the noteworthy trends.

POP Fashion digs into the runway data of S/S 2023 Miami Swim Week - a globe-leading event that offers the latest trends of swimwear. Ripples and stripes take the place of floral elements and animal prints. The combination of sporty style and swimwear becomes a noteworthy direction.

This report focuses on the patterns on men’s runway shows. According to the proportion charts in S/S 2022 and S/S 2023, plants and badges are the most popular elements. Human figures and badges show the biggest increase in 2023. Plaid/stripe and plant/flower trend upward as well. Textured patterns and ethnic motifs drop a little bit, while chinoiserie motifs present a four-percentage decrease.

This report focuses on the patterns on men’s runway shows. According to the proportion charts in S/S 2022 and S/S 2023, plants and badges are the most popular elements. Human figures and badges show the biggest increase in 2023. Plaid/stripe and plant/flower trend upward as well. Textured patterns and ethnic motifs drop a little bit, while chinoiserie motifs present a four-percentage decrease.

This report focuses on the patterns on men’s runway shows. According to the proportion charts in S/S 2022 and S/S 2023, plants and badges are the most popular elements. Human figures and badges show the biggest increase in 2023. Plaid/stripe and plant/flower trend upward as well. Textured patterns and ethnic motifs drop a little bit, while chinoiserie motifs present a four-percentage decrease.