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Ain't No Mountain High Enough -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of White Mountaineering
The Japanese outdoor brand White Mountaineering, founded by Yosuke Aizawa, launched its S/S 2022 collection -- Ain't No Mountain High Enough. The blurred boundary between urban clothing and outdoor wear tries to figure out the perfect balance of comfort and functionality. The shirt, jacket, utility vest and trousers of this S/S collection all apply the classic colors of autumn. Bomber jacket and more formal tailoring occupy a large proportion of this collection, which not only satisfies the needs of city life and also allows the wearers to explore more unpredictable outdoor places.
Vintage Lover -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Sportmax
Sportmax was founded by Achille Maramotti in 1969 with a concept of being fashionable, free and avant-garde. Inspired by the vintage styles of 60s and 70s, the creative director Grazia Malagoli applies classic paisley pattern and fine checkerboard to provide the latest runway in a stylish apartment. These living scenes interpret the delicate life of 60s and 70s women.
Breaking the Boundaries -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Burberry
"It has always," the designer Riccardo Tisci said, "been important to me to encourage freedom of expression and to blur the line between traditional notions of masculinity and femininity." The polished punk and "trophy tops" he pioneered at Givenchy fully presented such concept. Tisci also combined white top-stitching, swan print and punk items to show the free aesthetic of breaking the boundaries.
Fashion & Art -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Jil Sander
The Resort 2022 collection of Jil Sander was released on July 16, which told us a dialogue between fashion and art. This collection was about individuality and uniqueness of person, and "joy" is the mood it expressed. "In everything artistic there should be something functional, and it has to be at the service of the person," said Lucie Meier, "the ideas and philosophy behind the Bauhaus movement became relevant references for us." Each piece was given an individual character, in a sort of syncopated yet quite cohesive narrative. What tied the eclectic offering together was a sense of soft playfulness, smoothing the edges of sculptural silhouettes inspired by the graphic lines of Oskar Schlemmer's Triadic Ballet costumes. Undulating ruffles, fringed tassels, feathers, studwork, and statement jewelry gave grace to neat, elegant shapes. A dramatic sleeveless black-top-and-round-skirt ensemble in guipure lace, a chic strapless trapeze dress in off-white silk gazar, and a sleek pantsuit with a detachable round capelet also in silk gazar—one of the collection's main fabrics. And the slim leather overcoat was printed with a figurative motif of dancing women, painted by an illustrator friend.
Resilient Femininity -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of 3.1 Phillip Lim
Phillip Lim is continuously breaking through the border of modern fashion as an industry pioneer. Presented his resort in his Great Jones Street store, "hope" and "resilient femininity" have been the mood of this collection. Comfortable items were created during the pandemic. Widely-used drawstring and elastic details emphasize the functionality; easy-wearing knits show bold proportions. Suit jacket with a built-in bralette shows off the midriff. When unbuttoned, the bralette folds neatly away at the sides, revealing a more traditional shawl-collared jacket. A zip-front scuba dress was designed with similar ingenuity; its shrug-like knit sleeves also unbutton and can be worn wrapped around the neck. Meanwhile, duchesse silk separates implanted with three-dimensional rosettes and crystal embellishments were a reinterpretation of a key dress from Lim's first-ever runway show for spring 2007.
BACK TO WHERE IT STARTED - -The Menswear Runway Analysis of Giorgio Armani
Giorgio Armani is relatively understated among all luxury brands in recent years, because it barely meets the needs of Gen Z, and stays away from the mainstream. However, the conservative Armani still brought us an elegant Italian aesthetic feast in S/S 2022. On Via Borgonuovo, the place where it all began, Giorgio Armani explores once again the idea of clothing that frees instead of constricting, increasingly moving away from formality and decisively embracing the informality of sportswear. This casual runway is committed to creating the images of yuppie gentlemen.
Romance & Avant-garde -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of MSGM
MSGM was founded by the Italian designer Massimo Giorgetti in 2008. Influenced by the avant-garde spirit of independent music and contemporary art, the designer has cultivated a series of unique design aesthetics. Bold colors, minimalist lines and exquisite crafts reinterpret the traditional classics of Italy. MSGM Resort 2022 collection brings us the joyous party atmosphere of 1990s. Romantic and sweet floral patterns balance feminine temperament with avant-garde girlish personality to exude a thick fantastic feel.
Natural Healing -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of AMBUSH
Escaping from city is an opportunity to heal, enjoy, and feel the nature, which is exactly the inspiration source of AMBUSH S/S 2022 collection. Although the collection was released before A/W 21/22, the designer Yoon Ahn added wasteland and vast free space into city and streets to create a new brand blueprint. Such freedom has brought variable ideas and also changed the way how AMBUSH treats its fashion collections. Inspired by highly functional fabrics, the new branch AMBUSH WKSP demonstrates the basic elements for people to move comfortably between city and countryside.
Canone Infinito -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of MSGM
Music is the must-have element for the creative director Massimo Giorgetti. The hypnotic and endless rhythm of this Canone Infinito(composed by the Italian DJ Lorenco Senni) enthralled him. Photographer Francesco Nazardo and the Milan-based image makers of No Text Azienda were involved in the production of the men's collection's video. Somehow replicating the circular melody on Senni's musical piece, the two-day shoot took place on a secluded beach in Maremma, a largely untouched, wild strip of land in Tuscany.
The Comprehensive Runway Analysis of Women's Knitwear(Color)
According to the color proportion of women's knitwear on Cruise 2022 runways, classic brown(12%) and white(18%) are still important; And the application of bright colors shows a rising trend. Red(20%) and yellow(17%) are used the most, followed by green(14%), blue(10%) and also the noteworthy purple(9%).
Athenian Sport -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Christian Dior
Released in the Panathenaic Stadium, Athens, Greece, the Dior Cruise 2022 collection showed deep connection with sports. The creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri found inspiration from her researches of Greek mythology and historical site and her communication with local artists and craftsmen. Younger fashion trend was injected into brand gene. Among all the 91 looks in this Cruise show, classic Dior items were deconstructed and restructured to fuse sportswear with haute couture.
S/S 2022 Paris Menswear Fashion Week -- Brand Recommendation(Part Two)
S/S 2022 Paris Menswear Fashion Week was held from June 22th to 28th. Most brands still released their latest collections online. However, the pure digital fashion show has gradually transitioned into a mixed form in the post-pandemic era. The offline events absolutely promoted the attraction of this fashion week. There were 72 brands involved in the show, including some designer brands and niche brands.
S/S 2022 Paris Menswear Fashion Week -- Brand Recommendation(Part One)
S/S 2022 Paris Menswear Fashion Week was held from June 22th to 28th. Most brands still released their latest collections online. However, the pure digital fashion show has gradually transitioned into a mixed form in the post-pandemic era. The offline events absolutely promoted the attraction of this fashion week. There were 72 brands involved in the show, including Louis Vuitton, DIOR MEN, LOEWE, Yohji Yamamoto, Hermès and Lemaire. Meanwhile, the classic French fashion house Courrèges(founded in 1961) will also return with the first collection of its new creative director Nicolas Di Felice. Dior's cactus garden, Loewe's disco look and the beaches of Rick Owens and Lanvin compose the hedonistic atmosphere of 2022 spring.
The Color Analysis of Menswear Runway (Green Series)
One out of six European people lists green as the favourite color, but there are also many people who hate green. It is a color of life, vital, opportunity and hope. However, on the other hand, complex green also represents poison, misfortune and devil. Laurel Green(PANTONE 15-6313 TPG), Forest Green(PANTONE 17-0230 TPG), Sharp Green(PANTONE 13-0535 TPG) and Fir Green(PANTONE 18-0627 TPG) are the main colors of green series on S/S 2022 menswear fashion shows. We can see that this relatively darker tone has the vibe of autumn and winter. Acid Sharp Green brings positive emotions, and common Fir Green is rather versatile.
The Color Analysis of Menswear Runway (Yellow Series)
Yellow is a bright, positive and energetic color. After Pantone released a bright yellow color in the last season, enormous yellowish items have been emerged. We can see from the S/S 2022 menswear fashion weeks that Pastel Yellow(PANTONE 11-0616 TPG), Lemon Verbena(PANTONE 12-0742 TPG), Empire Yellow(PANTONE 14-0756 TPG) and Lemon Curry(PANTONE 15-0751 TPG) were the main tones of knitwear and outerwear. Pale yellow colors are soothing and healing. Bright yellow colors bring youthful vitality and naughtiness. These are the good choices for the development of summer and vacation.
THE (NEW) SET -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Ermenegildo Zegna
Ermenegildo Zegna S/S 2022 collection was started with a charming film. Running in the narrow space till it comes to a vast vision, EZ's THE (NEW) SET interprets the present through the conversation between human and nature. Innovative designs provide the world with brand new styles. Zegna always subverts the tradition and brings surprise. Bold color application and fabric combination in this summer change the conventional structure of ready-to-wear and show the harmonious flexibility.
Retro Future -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton Resort 2022 collection was presented by a short movie filmed at Axe Majeur, a sculpture park outside of Paris. The creative director Nicolas Ghesquière once again integrated urban context and architectural aesthetics into his design. An immersive artistic experience was created. Inspired by space travelling, jacquard patterns and prints of Resort 2022 collection feel a thick futuristic sense. The features of 60's silhouette and space suit have become the elements of this season. Parachute pleats on minidresses and the patterns of space landscape nod to the futurism designer André Courrèges. Solid tech fabrics are also chosen to present the avant-garde sense of future.
Daywear Couture -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Christian Dior
Dior A/W 21/22 Couture Collection was released on July 5 in Paris, which was presented by the creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri and French artist Eva Jospin. The work Chambre de Soie, created by French artist Eva Jospin, provides a backdrop for the show, with lifesize embroideries displayed on the walls recalling the Indian-inspired Salle aux Broderies in the Colonna Palace in Rome. Forest, vine, rock and waterfall create imaginative and twisted scenes. The combination of lively embroidery and haute couture gown is shown on this amazing runway. The materiality of fabric becomes form, while the subversive language of embroidery is expressed in a project that becomes a performance. An energy resembling poetic pleasure, at the intersection of style, movement and attitude. Through textile research, a series of pieces, featuring an assortment of checks, tweeds, textures and different dimensions in black and white. This creation serves as a precious décor for presenting dresses with magnificent pleats, trains, and hand-woven chains that compose patterns on the body, in colors dear to Monsieur Dior, such as powder blue or nude. The singular context reinterprets the meaning of embroidery, and salutes to the exquisite craftsmanship and couture spirit of Dior.
Local Color -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Max Mara
Max Mara released its Resort 2022 collection in the ancient and charming castle of Ischia, Italy. The inspiration is the journey, recalled by the writer Truman Capote in his collection of stories Local Color(1950), from which the collection takes its name. The minimalist and textured styles of this runway showed classic tailoring and tonal suite, which reveals the delicacy of urban jet set women.
Sexy & Comfortable -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Jacquemus
The French fashion house Jacquemus released its latest A/W 21/22 collection in recent days. The runway in this season brought us an aesthetics world of elegant sexual appeal and cool genderless styles. This naturally sexy and comfortable feel is extremely relaxing. Passionate pink and red tones bring joyous senses to A/W collections. The genderless tough tailoring of black styles creates hardcore looks. Rebellious design details and tailoring provide us with a series of new styles. Sexy wrap dress, cropped puffa jacket and hot suite interpret the sexy and cool wardrobe of unique Jacquemus girls.
Light-heartedness & Freedom -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of HERMES
Hermes Summer 2022 collection was presented by the male art director Véronique Nichanian and the drama director Cyril Teste. Abandoning the traditional formal wear, designer injects a sense of leisure into light-hearted and lively designs to outline minimalist lines, which accentuates silhouette and exquisite tailoring. Bursts of color and graphic stitching are used more in this season, and mixed multiple materials enliven the whole collection. Designer brings us a sunny daily scenery on the triangular stage. The collection exudes an air of relaxed light-heartedness and freedom. It is a response to the call of wide open spaces, a yearning for the oceans.
Warrior Spirit -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of S/S 2022 Burberry
Burberry S/S 2022 menswear collection has released. The creative director Riccardo Tisci combined freedom with unity to jump out of the constraint. To salute to the electronic music duo Shpongle, their song Strange Planet was selected to be the BGM of this runway. The vastness of the space shortens the distance between people. Sleeveless drop-shoulder jacket and deconstructed outerwear try to challenge the traditional principle. The flowing silhouette design is fused with abstract printed patterns and self-fabric straps. Classic brand elements are integrated into the theme to express royalty. Black halter-neck vest, outerwear and shorts are filled with the bravery of young warriors.
Romantic Garden -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of DIOR MEN
Months after the winning of Paris in 1947, the founder of the brand Christian Dior took his latest collection to American and won the Neiman Marcus Award. When Mr.Dior, who grew up in a French rose garden, saw the vast desert and grant canyon in Texas, he was deeply attracted by this marvelous natural scenery. Inspired by this story, Kim Jones invited the Houston rapper and musician Travis Scott to present this S/S 2022 menswear collection. Memories of Christian Dior's childhood gardens are fused with the cactus-heavy Texan landscape to create a cross-cultural and cross-era fantastic runway, reviewing the artistic charm from the perspective of Dior. S/S 2022 menswear collection is the first realistic menswear show of Dior after the pandemic. Besides, the collection CACTUSJACKDIOR was named after the independent label of Travis Scott -- Cactus Jack.
Amen Break -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Louis Vuitton
The seventh collection of Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton was named after the classic song of The Winstons -- Amen Break. This mysterious, isolated and weird atmosphere creates a dystopia future, especially reflecting the historical track of Black art and culture. Except for the performance of multiple African artists and hip-pop music, the clothing of this collection also presents the unique personality. Oriental belted element, draped dress hem and athleisure baseball sportswear present intensive visual impact. These bright and eye-catching colors bring us a fashion feast.