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The Anthem of Knight Girls -- The Catwalk Analysis of Chanel Womenswear
Chanel A/W 2020 show is held in Grand Palais, Paris. The show is inspired by Ms. Chanel's racehorse "Romantica" and the photo of Karl Lagerfeld in knight boots, displaying the outline of equestrian clothing. Virginie Viard loves Les Biches by Claude Chabrol (French director), and presents the charming yet tough image of females in the movie in this season. Virginie Viard rejuvenates the signature silhouette coat with the unique tailoring. The wave-like neckline and plackets are soft and romantic.
Exploring New Touch -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Womenswear Fabrics on Catwalks
This report concludes the runway data of more than 220 brands in the four fashion weeks of A/W 20/21, and analyzes the catwalks with fabric as the main line. Different fabrics are applied to different styles, showing different wearing effects. Based on that, this report also combines with trendy fabrics in the new season to offer more design inspirations. Because of the retro trend, jacquard grows. Leather and pearlescent satin also change boldly. Novel deconstructed fabrics, futuristic parachute protective fabrics and traditional formal wear fabrics also get innovated in this season.
Infinite Starry Sky -- The Catwalk Analysis of Saicai Womenswear
In the whole A/W 2020 series of Sacai, the theme of "Universe" is not only the open-and-shut starry sky. They choose four from the thousands of images provided by NASA as the inspiration, so in this season we can see the brand turns space into beautiful fashion with the deconstruction design it has always followed. Inspired by the special issue of 2015 NASA, it works with fabric designer Alexander Girard to create a star map made up of mobile phones, letters and numbers. And the lower left corner which was to mark "Alien" presents "SACAI" now. Representative deconstruction and reorganization are used. The key design is combining light silk with high-tech fabric. Different items are combined to create a new silhouette which highlights the ethereal feel. But it doesn't blindly use lightweight fabrics. Instead, it makes use of the balance of fabric combination to design.
Releasing Female Power -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Paris Fashion Week
From "leftover lady", "malechauvinist" to "sexual harassment" and "anti-domestic violence", more and more gender issues have emerged in public debate in recent years, accompanied by a feminist critique. Feminism is a series of knowledge methodology formed around the criticism of human patriarchy, and beyond the specific disciplines and research paradigms. It has become an important part of the social current of thoughts. Throughout the four fashion weeks for A/W 20/21, many brands have mentioned liberating females, female power and feminism, especially Paris Fashion Week. Christian Dior has a theme of "I SAY I" to express female power. Celine tells the story of womenswear during May 1968 events in France. Chanel puts forward the idea of liberation, and launches a series friendly to women. Valentino is the queen of the new minimalism. Miu Miu emphasizes the young lady's wear in the empire collection of the 1940s style. All of them are speaking out for women through fashionable way to show the gender mainstreaming from the perspective of gender equality under the turbulent times.
Creator of The Self -- The Catwalk Analysis of Celine Womenswear
The A/W 2020 collection of Celine still has the strong personal style of creative director Hedi Slimane. Male and female models are artistic and elegant, but with a deep rock sentiment. The whole show recreated the scene where the young bourgeois men and women strolled in the streets in the 1970s Paris. Gender ambiguity is still a hot topic in the fashion industry, and it gradually becomes a mainstream concept. Hedi said his show was unisex, where menswear can be worn by women and women's bags can be worn by men to be fit for consumers at different ages. This time he combines men's and women's fashion shows for the first time, deeply discussing the increasingly blurred gender in current fashion.
Autonomy -- The Catwalk Analysis of N°21 Womenswear
Founded in 2010, the 10th anniversary of N°21 and Milan have been on a journey of change and adventure. The A/W 20/21 collection of N°21 uses irregular designs to point out a more novel and freer direction for females. The minimalist and fun style gets changed in this season. Young decorations like chains and clips are applied to clothing. Lots of neutral clothing with asymmetry, deconstruction and disproportionate cutting emerges in this season. The focus is the transformed collar structure and the retro disco style dominated by sequined fabrics.
Girls, Move Forward! -- The Catwalk Analysis of Chloé Womenswear
In A/W 20/21 collection of Chloé, Natacha ramsa-levi, the creative director, explores the diverse female world. And she invites sculptor Marion Verboom to present sensual gold totem in the show, and musician Marianne Faithfull to read the classic literature. The iconic concrete lines from painter Rita Ackermann's works are also injected into the design of items and accessories. This season Chloe A/W 20/21 collection blends painting, sculpture and poetry into this show, adopts heather rose, dune, light brown, chestnut, dust blue and caramel, and applies paisley prints, the beaded collar and embroidery for a soft visual feel.
Female Power of "I SAY I" – The Catwalk Analysis of Christian Dior Womenswear
The A/W 2020 collection of Christian Dior keeps speaking out for women. The installation, created by "collective artist" Claire Fontaine, features a newspaper-covered floor and slogans from the late Italian art critic and feminist Carla Lonzi. A series of neon-decorated slogans in the show and the printed headbands display the independent character of modern women. The creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, draws inspirations from her girlhood diaries and integrates with Mr. Dior's beloved check elements. (Checks made up of pastel colors like milk cocoa, light green and warm grey are endowed with more creativity, elegant and nonchalant.) And tassels are prevailing in this season. Maria Grazia Chiuri continues the theme of "female power", speaks out for women, and expresses Dior's free soul of "I SAY I" with fashion.
Navigation Season -- The Catwalk Analysis of Max Mara Womenswear
Inheritance and innovation are the essence of the A/W 2020 Max Mara show. This season Ian Griffiths draws inspiration from the sailor chic. Michel Foucault says, dreams will dry up without civilization on board. As Ian Griffiths puts it at the start of the show, "This is a romantic trip that starts in Morocco and goes north to Russia". The A/W 2020 collection of Max Mara is very adventurous. The compass marked with the brand name and the sailing ship lead us to experience the charm of the winter sea.
Liberating Gentle Power -- The Catwalk Analysis of Fendi Womenswear
The A/W 20/21 collection of Fendi kicks off with the psychedelic sound of Alessandro Cortini, Nine Inch Nails's keyboardist. This time Silvia Venturini, the creative director of Fendi, performs the theme of Gentle Power through the combination of structure and softness, and showcases the liberation of wearable female power. This season plus-size models join the catwalk lineup for the first time. The high-waist of the crisp overcoat and the well-fitting dress accentuates female form, which echoes the pink streamlined catwalk. Retro lantern sleeves run through the whole series. Color-blocking and contrasting of classic elements fully display the role switch between boudoir and meeting room. The strap boots with sheepskin cushion and satin high-heeled shoes highlight the vampire-like enchanting temperament, in line with the theme of boudoir. The waisted design, military outerwear with flare sleeves and the crisp fabric present the powerful temperament of females in the meeting room, quite emotional. Fendi's aesthetics balances between sexiness and calmness, toughness and softness, gentleness and power.
Minimalist Beauty of Purity -- The Catwalk Analysis of Jil Sander Womenswear
After the "unity of opposites" of S/S 2020 Jil Sander, this season the couple, Lucie and Luke Meier, brings the minimalist beauty of purity. The couple knows models can not fully display the emotion and temperament of clothing by just walking around the catwalk, so they put chairs in the center of the stage for models to sit down. The unique design endows the show with a different emotion. The noble feeling also brings a dramatic moment.
Racing and Sailing -- The Catwalks Analysis of Tommy Hilfiger Womenswear
This season, the New York brand, Tommy Hilfiger, heads to London Fashion Week for its A/W 2020 collection. The brand keeps its vision of "vision to waste nothing and welcome all" and continues its exploration in sustainable fashion. In the A/W 2020 show, Tommy Hilfiger and Lewis Hamilton work together to create a new collection inspired by racers. More than 75% of styles are made in sustainable ways, including 100% organic cotton, recycled materials, down substitute and washed denim. The collection combines the traditional menswear of Tommy Hilfiger and the street style of Lewis Hamilton, and mixes burnt olive, neutral tones with highly saturated neon colors.
A Doll's House in Fairy Tale -- The Catwalks Analysis of Gucci Womenswear
Gucci is always the most dramatic show of Milan Fashion Week. In A/W 2020, the creative director Alessandro Michele opens up the most confidential and private back stage to the public. The catwalk is like a doll house that combines carousel. The dreamlike presenting way and the gorgeous clothing collocation satisfy fans. The series uses a lot of kidswear details, seeming to satisfying kids' curiosity. Lace and velvet are used, which conforms with Belle Époque, one of S/S 2021 theme trends released by POP.
Memories -- The Catwalk Analysis of Burberry Womenswear
Since Riccardo Tisci took charge of Burberry's creative director in 2018, versatility and inclusiveness have made up Burberry's current form. After Kingdom, Tempest and Evolution, Riccardo Tisci takes Memories as the theme of A/W 20/21 Burberry. Images with mirroring and perceptive connotations are secretly displayed before the show. Skin, petal, dew... The shadow created by mirror symmetry sets the keynote of this season. The "Memories" world built by Burberry is like the alternations of virtual and real spaces with overlapping dimensions in the movie, Inception. On the catwalk, twin pianists Katia and Marielle Labeque cooperate with electronic producer Arcaper to put on a bizarre duet. For Riccardo Tisci, this series is a self-recall and reflection on memory, consciousness, perception, psychology and life.
The Confident Wardrobe -- The Catwalk Analysis of Victoria Beckham Womenswear
Victoria Beckham is a high-end fashion brand founded by famous British singer and fashion designer Victoria Beckham in 2008. Victoria Beckham's own fame and her steady middle-class background make her designs unique. The 20/21 A//W series is inspired by that exhausted woman are seeking peace, and creates the style of confident wardrobe. The collection records the return of the black avant-garde silhouette and exposed neckline, negative space rhomboid knitting which is first raised by Stephan Cooke (a young London menswear designer), two pieces of Shetland knitwear (one in cornflower blue, the other in yolk yellow), flares sleeves, the dress with dense and regular smocking stitch, the finely cut check shirt, the skirt with a tough silhouette, and the layered color-blocked overcoat. These all bring a confident femininity of urban office ladies.
Natural Structure -- The Catwalk Analysis of 3.1 Phillip Lim Womenswear
In 2005, Lin Nengping and his partner, Zhou Xuanwen, were both 31 when they co-founded the brand 3.1 Phillip Lim. Initially, with the support of a surf wear company, Lin Nengping began designing his first collection. Retaining the concept of nature, the series was full of many low-key and unique items in natural colors. Environmental protection and charity are concerned topics of the brand.
Check Meeting -- The Catwalk Analysis of Monse Womenswear
Monse was founded in 2012. It upholds the minimalist style, and makes deconstruction elegant and avant-garde. Its various irregular designs are memorable. On Instagram, it draws much attention. And stars often wear clothing of this brand. Here we mainly analyze the collar design and splicing of shirts. In the new season, cutout on the collar and the design of exposing shoulder integrates straps, color-blocking, asymmetry and paper clip elements. The splicing of dress fabric is bolder, like the asymmetry of left and right, and the asymmetry from inside to outside.
The Collision of Classics and Modernity -- The Catwalk Analysis of MSGM Womenswear
Massimo Giorgetti, the artistic director of MSGM, who is constantly looking for cultural inspiration from the past, is an unruly fun-goer. This theme is inspired by Gio Ponti's interior design of Milan architectures in the 1970s and the modernistic ceramic floor tiles. The concept of the collision and integration of classics and modernity is used to present the vivid and interesting design aesthetics. The classic bright color matching and bowknot of WSGM are used. The neat and clean silhouette replaces ruffle, with lively colors to be fresh and lovely. Various interior elements are used as patterns this time. The geometrics on the floor tiles are applied to the shirt, and classical rose pattern is used to the outerwear. Environmental protection is also advocated this time, like eco-friendly leather and faux woolskin, reflecting the designer's attention to the environmental protection.
The Brand-new Look of Riccardo Style -- The Catwalk Analysis of Burberry Womenswear
1. Since Riccardo Tiscisha was officially appointed as the new creative director by Burberry's official Instagram in 2018, whether he can lead Burberry has become the topic. As the creative director, he hopes to use his own style to restore the glory of the brand, and at the same time, to inject new blood into the works. The Pre-Fall 2020 series retains the elegance and wildness of S/S. 2. On April 23rd, 2020, Burberry will hold a big show in Shanghai, which is the brand's first show in China under the leadership of Tisci, and he said it was time to expand his vision beyond London after completing his aesthetic identity for the brand.
Retro Futurism -- The Catwalk Analysis of Fendi Menswear
The A/W 2020 menswear collection of Fendi has a theme of New Normal. The show is inspired by Retro-futurist, and has a background of high-tech and minimalist white stage. Menswear shows up in tonal order: from heavy black and gray, to gentle khaki, to light yellow and white in the end, and the overall style tends to be formal. Silvia Venturini Fendi reshapes the classic items and brings them back. She thinks it's a great idea to stop in time to review these seemingly insignificant but classic items.
The Freedom to Wear -- The Catwalk Analysis of 3.1 Phillip Lim Womenswear
Inspired by the work of John Chamberlain, subtle expressions and subtle tensions in artistic works are introduced to explore the harmony and disharmony of fashion. Referring to the hardware details and the processing of gold and silver ware in Noguchi's work and jewellery, practical items are equipped with more sculpture details and asymmetric designs, keeping fashion beauty in the rhyme of body. This series displays emotions and makes the closet freer. Constantly emphasizing the contemporary spirit held by 3.1 Phillip Lim, through the mix & match of different elements and styles, we can explore more possibilities for daily clothes.
Europe in The 1930s -- The Catwalk Analysis of Giorgio Armani's Womenswear
Giorgio Armani holds his Pre-Fall 2020 show at the Armani Theater in Milan, where he presents a collection named reformism. The designer explained this name before the launch, saying: "I want women to be free to change anytime, anywhere, depending on their mood." The entire collection is inspired by women in the 1930s. Florals favored by social butterfly of the Parisian upper class in the 1920s-1930s are applied for vertical and three-dimensional transformation, and applied to printing or partial accessories to display the Giorgio Armani's integration of the East and the West. Models mainly wear short top and long trousers, which is in line with clothing collocation of French women in the 1920s-1930s. The entire show echoes the femininity of ladies in the 1930s.
The Original Femininity -- The Catwalk Analysis of Karen Walker's Womenswear
The S/S 2020 series of Karen Walker shows that designer is recalling the past. The inspiration of this series is from a mathematician, astronomer and philosopher, Hypatia, in 350 AD. This intelligent woman ranks among the best scholars of the ancient world with her talents and contributions. And her tragic death by barbaric pagans is always a tragedy. Karen Walker says the primitive feminist already existed at that time, and it was a turbulent time just like today. But the designer still focuses on her goal of gender equality.
Individual and Funny Fashion Paradise- The Comprehensive Catwalk Analysis of Kidswear in Shanghai Fashion Week
Grotesque colors, color bombs and saturated color blocks belong to spring and summer and these bright colors are wandering at fingertips. The main representatives of the designer style of kidswear for S/S 2020 are LEYANG C particular about individual cutting, interesting and dreamlike TYAKASHA, cool Ebcastle and some Chinese fashion brands like Moomoo, Joy&Joa, LITTLE-KINGDOM and SUSU-pretty. These brands bring people to spring and summer.