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Messy and Orderly Avant-gardism -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of Givenchy
A/W 21/22 Givenchy collection was released at Paris La Défense Arena. The ground was intentionally designed into wet water ground. Models' reflections in the water echoed the lights and presented a weird and fanciful feel. Givenchy breaks through its conventional design, and it applies street, dark and rebellious style instead of elegance. In the catwalk of this new collection, Matthew invited a lot of rappers to present his close relationship with street culture and hip-hop. The most iconic metal, functional and high-street elements are injected into Givenchy to build the distinctive luxurious and dark fashion aesthetic, which has successfully attracted the young generation. And even the world-famous Billie Eilish is his client. "In many ways, this collection is about a constant tension between two worlds." Matthew M Williams explained about his A/W 2021 collection,"We wanted to bring a sense of lived reality alongside precision, elegance and extravagance in the clothing and looks."
A Journey to The Sky -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of Balmain
Balmain A/W 21/22 collection gets inspiration from the journey of the brand founder Pierre Balmain 75 years ago. And this journey is above and beyond the atmosphere. The vintage futuristic silhouette of Space Age in 1960s is combined with shiny jumpsuit, which integrates the current futurism into the past and brings the fantastic imagination. Besides, designer Oliver Rousteing also applies 70s PB Monogram to inject vintage sense into the coolness.
An Ode to Milan's Underground Nightlife -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of MSGM
The MSGM A/W 2021 womenswear collection is an ode to Milan's underground nightlife, and also to the desire for going back to dance floors. This collection is modeled on a cast of young dancers and performers. After experiencing such many impacts, MSGM is preparing for a restart and relight the bright of Milan. The creative director Massimo Giorgetti releases the A/W 2021 womenswear collection, Manifesto. It is a collective labor of love, involving Flash Art publisher Gea Politi, visual artist Alessandro Calabrese, movie director Francesco Coppola, and Club Domani's DJ Sergio Tavelli and Andrea Ratti. Together they produced a cinematic video with a spoken-word soundtrack by Politi shot in Milan's historic Teatro Manzoni.
Three Acts -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of Hermes
The Hermès A/W 21/22 runway show is presented in three citys, New York, Paris and Shanghai. This Three Acts uses three distinct forms to show the fashion sequence. The first act is at Park Avenue Armory, New York, American choreographer Madeline Hollander opened the fashion show with a dance inspired by the rhythm of New York pedestrians. The second act is at the La Garde Républicaine of Paris. And the third is presented at Shanghai Maison Hermès. The Chinese choreographer Gu Jia’ni is inspired by the Eight Diagrams and uses body rhythm to present great power and passion. The womenswear collection this season expresses the desire to explore the sensibility of the new era, which breaks the thinking and habits and absorbs different cultures. The models who look like Amazon women warriors are marching with new collection, presenting mystery, power and aura. The fabrics and crinkle designs which break through the conventions echo the soft and thermal cashmere, delivering the message of self-rebuilding.
Romantic Beauty of the Night Sky -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of Giorgio Armani
Giorgio Armani once again improves the classic styling in this A/W collection. Nocturnal is the theme of womenswear which keeps the accurate fluent lines and integrates more elegant and leisurely elements. It allows wearers not to disguise and to be themselves at ease. Influenced by the epidemic, Mr. Armani canceled the traditional runway and invited no audience. The A/W 21/22 collection was still released online through network streaming. The huge white Armani logo echoes the monochrome black square stage. And the overall dark runway environment brings the unique modern mystery. The green gorilla Uri is at the center of the whole runway, and it is the copy vision of the artwork of Marcantonio Malerba. Uri means "My flame and my light", which not only shows Mr. Armani's love for animals and nature and his intense environmental awareness, but also creates a unique oasis for the bright Milan. At the end of the show, Mr. Armani took a group photo with the green gorilla Uri, which called on people to love fashion and protect nature at the same time.
Futuristic 80s -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of Isabel Marant
The ISABEL MARANT was founded by the homonymic designer Isabel Marant in French in 1994. This A/W 21/22 collection video shot in the outskirts of Paris, along the brutalist and hyponotic volutes of an open-air building, serves as an introduction to the collection. The exalted soundtrack by Gabber Eleganza, a symbiotic combination of folk tones and techno rhythms, echoes within its concrete wall. An ode to the long-lost parties. Isabel Marant describes this collection as "the 1980s in 2030 fabrics." She uses leather, cutout, sequin and rivet with futuristic textures, colors and thin silhouette to present her own 80s futurism. She sent the portable cassette players out as her show invitations. When you pressed play, Marant's voice appeared on a tape that eventually went into the show soundtrack.
Upgrading Sustainable Development -- The Comprehensive Catwalk Analysis of Women's Denim
Influenced by the sustainable development of global fashion industry, laser craft is widely used by brands instead of dangerous chemical water-washing. The laser craft reuses and recolors the jeans to present diverse distressed water-washed effects and provide different patterns.
Practicality First -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Menswear Catwalk(Silhouette&Item)
A/W 21/22 menswear fashion week has come to an end. Leading by the comfortable style this season, silhouettes and items still follow this comfortable theme. Practicality comes the first. Oversized silhouette once again underlines the importance of comfort. Since the borders between casual and formal occasions are more blurred, unrestrained leisurely items can switch occasions with ease.
Advanced Relaxation -- The Catwalk Analysis of Victoria Beckam
From Manchester to Madrid and now Miami, Victoria Beckham has always tempered her fashion reinventions to her environments. "The way they dress here is so different from anything I've seen in my entire life. It's just fantastic. It's a less-is-more approach," she said with a big smile via a video call from the Magic City, where her husband, David, is working on his soccer team, Inter Miami. Her new collection wasn't an exercise in scanty dressing, but the sparse public wardrobes of her temporary home did somehow echo her post-pandemic ethos. "It's more relaxed. The little details we used to obsess over—there's less of that. We weren't in a position to do that, to be honest with you, and I like this sense of freedom," Beckham explained.
Salute to the Coexistence of Human and Nature -- The Menswear Catwalk Analysis of Burberry
A/W 2021 Burberry collection is the first independent menswear collection since the combination of menswear and womenswear in September, 2016. The brand creativity rebuilds the Burberry flagship store on Regent Street and provides a realistic watching experience. The new theme ESCAPES praises the spirit of outdoor exploration. It is inspired by the longing for outdoor and pretty nature during the lockdown period. The collection salutes to the creativity and imagination through free expression and classic rebuilding. The tailoring design in the new season contains many playful interpretations of Burberry's classic elements. Badges and decorations are used to underline the ritual sense and symbolize the community, friendship and belongingness. Polar fleece overcoat and bionic hat brim imply the original appearance of nature. The repeated tassel hem is combined with classic pattern and print, showing the primitive feeling of Scottish nomads.
De-gendering Mix&match Era -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Menswear Catwalk(Styling)
A/W 21/22 Milan, Paris and London menswear week has come to an end. People are having extremely intense requirements of comfortable lifestyle under this almost digitalized background. Therefore, menswear brands rebuild the affinity. They get rids of the traditional seriousness of menswear, and the monochrome unisex dressing style interprets a pure and undisturbed future to those people who want to live a relaxing and minimalist life during the quarantine. It is the dressing guide of men in this de-gendering mix&match era, which also provides women with inspiration.
Comfort and Practicality -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of 3.1 Phillip Lim
3.1 Phillip Lim was founded by Mr. Phillip Lim and Mrs. Wen Zhou in 2005, and finished its debut at New York Fashion Week. Mr. Phillip Lim has won three CFDA Awards. The brand aims at providing designer products with high-quality and fashionable styles in the prices suitable for urban consumption habit. And it is also trying to break through the border of modern fashion as an industry pioneer. Since the beginning of COVID crisis, Phillip Lim has been using its platform to raise awareness of the alarming increase in American anti-Asian hate crimes. Lim said that he would like to deal with the mass trend with "keeping agile and alert" and "don't treat anything in any way". From the fashion perspective, the all-around A/W 2021 collection involves the constant conversation about comfort and practicality since the quarantine. And with the return to commuting and office lives, the brand might leave space and show playfulness through tailoring. He has always been an expert in tailoring who is able to creating long-lasting silhouette according to the trend.
Healing and Classic -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Menswear Catwalks (Color)
Healing colors like Pristine, soft pink and neutral colors are the main color tones for A/W 21/22 menswear. And the gentle Yellow Iris provides an optimistic life style. The winter vibe brought by Chocolate Truffle, Ginger Bread and Military Olive presents luxurious, practical and retro tonality in the menswear catwalks.
Possible Feelings -- The Catwalk Analysis of Prada Menswear
A/W 21/22 Prada menswear collection has been the first menswear collection since Raf Simons joined Prada and worked with Miuccia Prada. Under the theme Possible Feeling, designers explore human's body, simplified clothes structures and set body free. The layout of this Prada catwalk is just like an art exhibition, four rooms with colorful spaces. Designed by Rem Koolhaas and AMO, refined marble, resin, plaster and artificial fur are selected to be the materials. Its hardness and softness, warmth and coldness perfectly demonstrate the word Freedom. And these materials can be recycled and reused on special product installations and pop-ups around the world.
Accelerate Simplification -- The Catwalk Analysis of Jil Sander Womenswear
Simplification is the core of Jil Sander's design in 2021 early autumn. This style well fits the current uncertain period and ingeniously integrates contrastive elements to present liveliness in the delicate minimalist style. During the quarantine this year, the designer Luke Meier expects to show more indoor feeling and bring warmth to the life. This season's products use concise visual language to accurately send out the inspiration and brand inspirit. Soft woolen knitting and stiff suits fabric are applied as textures. Decorations and ornaments like jewelry buttons capture the modern quintessence. The most eye-catchy scarf turndown embraces the real contemporary silhouette and texture. The relaxing practicality and stylish angular tailoring show extreme elegance. The LOOKBOOK this season was shot in an apartment, and this modern space also reflect the delicate minimalism of brand.
Rebirth & Close to Nature -- The Comprehensive Analysis of New York Fashion Week
Due to COVID-19, this year New York Fashion Week has been shortened from the usual eight days to four, and fewer than 10 designers hold physical shows for their latest collections. Despite the severe condition in New York, many brands still hold fashion shows offline, which reveals the determination of the whole fashion industry to survive and return to happiness. Many designers draw inspiration from the relationship between man and nature, and some put the show in the woods. Beautiful flowers and nature-inspired patterns characterize this season. In the meantime, people are stuck at home, and they have a growing demand for home decorations. Therefore, diverse and eco-friendly concept is also warmly welcomed in S/S 2021. This season features exaggerated expressions, such as the big bowknot, spreading ruffles and dramatic hem designs, as well as various joyful colors which represent hope and rebirth.
The 1980s Disco -- The Catwalk Analysis of ISABEL MARANT Womenswear
With the beat of I Feel Love (Rick Owens also auditioned for his music score earlier in the day), the dance group La Horde went wild as Marant girls promoted a night of fun. "My outline is so obvious that I can't design any other way and I don't have to force myself because of the time constraints." This style centers on the 1980s, suspending somewhere between St. Germain and Manhattan, with an extra sheen.
Heritage, Community and Optimism -- The Catwalk Analysis of Balmain Womenswear
Balmain S/S 2021 fashion show is held in Jardin des Plantes, paring with BGM of Blinding Lights of The Weekend to create a strongly nostalgic vibe. LG OLED seems to bring audience to the scene. This show covers three basic themes, Heritage, Community and Optimism. Olivier Rousteing, the creative director, re-explores classic 1970s patterns of Pierre Balmain. PB monogram gets crossed with each other, recreating labyrinthine gardens that Mr. Balmain loves. Moreover, symbolic shoulder pads run through the entire S/S 2021 collection, reflecting Olivier Rousteing blends traditional and creative designs to explore the brand-new chapter from 1945 to 2020.
Minimalist and Young -- The Catwalk Analysis of Jil Sander Womenswear
Jil Sander is the representative brand of minimalism, founded by a German designer and later merged by Prada. In 2017, Luke and Lucie Meier took over Jil Sander as creative directors. Luke Meier, who worked eight years as the chief designer of Supreme, has a background in street fashion that makes up for years of Jil Sander's neglect of the youth market. Lucie Meier has worked at haute couture brands like Dior, Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga, helping to keep the simple and elegant style of Jil Sander. Its S/S 2021 womenswear continues the fine and delicate DNA, employs cotton, recycled polyester and mulberry silk, and accentuates female graceful form via embroideries, creating simple yet ethereal looks.
Absolute Perception -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Shanghai Kidswear Fashion Week
This season kidswear has a theme of Absolute Perception to lead us to perceive new fashion from sight, hearing and touch. The changing times prompts us to create art that is ahead of times. And kidswear also creates a new fashion era for children in S/S 2021.
Focusing on Details -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Shanghai Kidswear Fashion Week
S/S 2021 kidswear catwalks attract many international kidswear brands (BOY LONDON JUNIOR, GAP and The Children's Place), Chinese kidswear brands (Balabala, gxg.kids, MQD and COCOTREE), Chinese independent designer brands MINGCHENGZI and Little Naive, Chinese high-end gown brands PureShare and FLOWER NINE.
Wanna a Water Tango? -- The Catwalks Analysis of Maison Margiela Womenswear
With a theme of Tango, this season Maison Margiela explores the interdependent relationship between people. John Galliano joins hands with photographer Nick Knight to launch a short video, S.W.A.L.K. II, which artistically presents Maison Margiela S/S 2021 Co-Ed series. It tells a South American wedding tragedy, and everyone including the bride and groom wears Maison Margiela's signature veil. From the brand's history, we know that wearing the veil is designed to get people to focus more on the clothes themselves, rather than the models. Before shooting, models were trained intensively for weeks at local dance camps. Under the moonlight in Tuscany, models dance gracefully over puddles and get captured by still photography, thus presenting the ready-to-wear collection of Maison Margiela.
French Flavor -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Paris Fashion Week
Due to this pandemic, online New York Fashion and London Fashion Week almost gain no attention. But more brands hold physical fashion shows in Milan Fashion Week. Paris Fashion Week from September 28th to October 6th seems even more unique. 84 brands join it; 18 brands including Dior, Louis Vuitton and Chanel hold physical shows; there are also 29 static shows. This time Paris Fashion Week focuses on eulogizing nature, French flavor and Chinese elements, to inspire people to get closer to nature, inherit French romanticism and rebuild confidence in future life.
Practical Luxury -- The Catwalk Analysis of DIOR MEN Menswear
DIOR MEN Resort 2021 by Kim Jones features practicality, business leisure and young street fashion. The collection is displayed on lookbook, more casual than catwalk collection. It is luxurious yet wearable. This series covers shorts and matching camp shirts in S/S 2021 collection, as well as its symbolic monogram. It also pairs stripes with light tones for a soothing yet vigorous feeling. Intense cold tones like crayon, calm black and leather, argyles and stripes mix with each other and depict vibrant pictures. In addition to smooth lines, crisp silhouette and elaborate crafts, functional elements such as key pendant and climbing hook also display practicality.