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Decoding The Highlights -- The Comprehensive Analysis of New York Fashion Week Womenswear
New York Fashion Week is an international fashion week for fashion buyers, the news media, and the public. New York fashion week ended in February this year. And it's clear that compared to previous NYFW shows, this season is a little subdued. Many brands, including Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein, have dropped out of New York fashion week this season. Chinese media, fashion buyers and stars have been forced to change their work plans because of the outbreak. However, there are still many highlights.
The Confident Wardrobe -- The Catwalk Analysis of Victoria Beckham Womenswear
Victoria Beckham is a high-end fashion brand founded by famous British singer and fashion designer Victoria Beckham in 2008. Victoria Beckham's own fame and her steady middle-class background make her designs unique. The 20/21 A//W series is inspired by that exhausted woman are seeking peace, and creates the style of confident wardrobe. The collection records the return of the black avant-garde silhouette and exposed neckline, negative space rhomboid knitting which is first raised by Stephan Cooke (a young London menswear designer), two pieces of Shetland knitwear (one in cornflower blue, the other in yolk yellow), flares sleeves, the dress with dense and regular smocking stitch, the finely cut check shirt, the skirt with a tough silhouette, and the layered color-blocked overcoat. These all bring a confident femininity of urban office ladies.
Young and Fashionable -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Men's Leather/Fur on Catwalks
On A/W 20/21 catwalks, young and fashionable menswear tends to adopt bright colors, like warm brown tones, leaping blue tones and fiery red tones. Compared with last season, colors are full and pleasing in this season. Large-scale brights are used. Tonal color match also appears at shows of luxury brands. The neat silhouette keeps the minimalist comfort trend, and meticulous looks also display designers' ingenuity. Therefore, using creativity to add more possibilities to items is key to success in A/W 20/21.
Natural Structure -- The Catwalk Analysis of 3.1 Phillip Lim Womenswear
In 2005, Lin Nengping and his partner, Zhou Xuanwen, were both 31 when they co-founded the brand 3.1 Phillip Lim. Initially, with the support of a surf wear company, Lin Nengping began designing his first collection. Retaining the concept of nature, the series was full of many low-key and unique items in natural colors. Environmental protection and charity are concerned topics of the brand.
The Retro Urban Style -- The Catwalk Analysis of Coach 1941 Womenswear
The A/W 20/21 collection of Coach 1941 is from the creative director, Stuart Vevers who joined Coach in 2013. In the new season, Coach still uses the modern technique to reshape a retro vibe and bring vitality of the 1980s New York. In the runway, gorgeous leather in original colors and the mid-length skirt with buckles keep the atmosphere. The brand also keeps the printed Japanese clothing and the old "Yeast Village" style. This season is inspired by a famous downtown legend, Jean-Michel Basquiat. His works and personal style are always the inspiration source of the fashion industry. And his signature pattern appears on the key items, including the oversized leather trench coat, blanket-style wool scarf and a new structure sense.
Business Leisure -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Men's Leather/ Fur
On A/W 20/21 catwalks, retro natural colors and neutral intellectual colors co-create rich and calm business color palette. Compared with last season, cold industrial colors have a stronger effect. For instance, grey and blue become key colors for men's leather and fur. People no longer pursue the minimalist comfort only, and pay attention to the exquisite and elite fur. There are classic and simple silhouette designs on catwalks. And we also need to pay attention to irregular splicing and collar details.
Femininity Encountering Romance -- The Catwalk Analysis of Tory Burch Womenswear
This season Tory Burch's show is held at Sotheby in New York. The main highlight of the show is the inspiration source -- 11 sculptures which are all created by the American artist Francesca DiMattio, and provided by Salon94 and Pippy Houldsworth. Models complete the show around these sculptures. The patterns on the clothes and the texture of the sculptures complement each other, perfectly interpreting the theme and concept of the show.
Check Meeting -- The Catwalk Analysis of Monse Womenswear
Monse was founded in 2012. It upholds the minimalist style, and makes deconstruction elegant and avant-garde. Its various irregular designs are memorable. On Instagram, it draws much attention. And stars often wear clothing of this brand. Here we mainly analyze the collar design and splicing of shirts. In the new season, cutout on the collar and the design of exposing shoulder integrates straps, color-blocking, asymmetry and paper clip elements. The splicing of dress fabric is bolder, like the asymmetry of left and right, and the asymmetry from inside to outside.
Decadent Looks -- The Catwalk Analysis of VETEMENTS Womenswear
VETEMENTS is founded by Demna Gvasalia and Guram Gvasalia, a graduate of Royal Academy of Fine Arts. It witnesses the unruly street subculture. It is the benchmark of street brands and often copied by other brands. After Guram Gvasalla's departure, VETEMENTS makes a series of changes, retains its own style but begins to cooperate with other industries like Evian to keep energetic in the depressed market.
Speak for The Earth in The Name of Art -- The Catwalk Analysis of Ermenegildo Zegna Menswear
This season Zegna redefines the beauty of tailoring. From the perspective of diversified integration, Zegna creates a neat and layered silhouette, and interprets exquisite tailoring skills of the brand. And it also pays more attention to the echo between details and cutting. The flip and patch pocket are ergonomic, showing the outstanding practicality of this series. The Ermenegildo Zegna XXX series always upholds the concept of sustainability, and so does this show. Zegna works with American multimedia artist Anne Patterson, and weaves extra fabrics into thousands of ribbons to create a giant cube, realizing the perfect combination of artistic aesthetics and environmental protection.
A.W.A.K.E. -- The Catwalk Analysis of A.W.A.K.E. MODE Womenswear
A.W.A.K.E. is the abbreviation of "All Wonderful Adventures Kindle Enthusiasm". It is founded by Natalia Alaverdian in 2012. Alaverdian is a Russian girl famous for street snaps. And she is also a fashion editor, styling designer, photographer, artistic director and designer of A.W.A.K.E. Her goal for A.W.A.K.E. is to make everyone speak for themselves through clothing. The important reference element related to each classic design of A.W.A.K.E. is the characteristic animal image from art and film. And the subtle element of Japanese culture brings an eclectic quality to each item.
The Collision of Classics and Modernity -- The Catwalk Analysis of MSGM Womenswear
Massimo Giorgetti, the artistic director of MSGM, who is constantly looking for cultural inspiration from the past, is an unruly fun-goer. This theme is inspired by Gio Ponti's interior design of Milan architectures in the 1970s and the modernistic ceramic floor tiles. The concept of the collision and integration of classics and modernity is used to present the vivid and interesting design aesthetics. The classic bright color matching and bowknot of WSGM are used. The neat and clean silhouette replaces ruffle, with lively colors to be fresh and lovely. Various interior elements are used as patterns this time. The geometrics on the floor tiles are applied to the shirt, and classical rose pattern is used to the outerwear. Environmental protection is also advocated this time, like eco-friendly leather and faux woolskin, reflecting the designer's attention to the environmental protection.
The Brand-new Look of Riccardo Style -- The Catwalk Analysis of Burberry Womenswear
1. Since Riccardo Tiscisha was officially appointed as the new creative director by Burberry's official Instagram in 2018, whether he can lead Burberry has become the topic. As the creative director, he hopes to use his own style to restore the glory of the brand, and at the same time, to inject new blood into the works. The Pre-Fall 2020 series retains the elegance and wildness of S/S. 2. On April 23rd, 2020, Burberry will hold a big show in Shanghai, which is the brand's first show in China under the leadership of Tisci, and he said it was time to expand his vision beyond London after completing his aesthetic identity for the brand.
Green Nose -- The Catwalk Analysis of Mm6 by Maison Margiela Womenswear
MM6 is the subsidiary brand of Maison Margiela, founded in France in 1997. MM6 also abandons the personal concept of "number coding" that designers have always insisted on, and creates mainly wearable and original ready-to-wear, shoes, bags and accessories. Products of MM6 are simple but fashionable, based on deconstruction to fully display the imagination of designers.
Creation -- The Catwalk Analysis of Men's Leather/Fur of Hermes
Hermès always emphasizes comfort and practicality and delivers lasting craftsmanship and brand culture through each collection. In terms of A/W 20/21 menswear, Véronique Nichanian creates a simple silhouette to make each set capable and appropriate, and the superior fabric brings a pleasing and 3D feel. The exquisite lining can also be worn outside. Compared with the bright S/S series, deep brown and dark tones are main tones of A/W 20/21. The new season of Hermès menswear is worth reference.
Retro Futurism -- The Catwalk Analysis of Fendi Menswear
The A/W 2020 menswear collection of Fendi has a theme of New Normal. The show is inspired by Retro-futurist, and has a background of high-tech and minimalist white stage. Menswear shows up in tonal order: from heavy black and gray, to gentle khaki, to light yellow and white in the end, and the overall style tends to be formal. Silvia Venturini Fendi reshapes the classic items and brings them back. She thinks it's a great idea to stop in time to review these seemingly insignificant but classic items.
Face up to Selves -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Women's Knitwear on Catwalks
In 2020, people no longer show their individuality through neutrality, but start to face up to women themselves and explore the original connotation of females. On Pre-Fall catwalk, knitwear tends to be mature and elegant. Many brands gradually get rid of the neutral and leisure style, and turn from blurring gender boundary towards exploring the original beauty of females. Knitwear reduces the large-scale textural feel and adds simple but exquisite designs. And designers apply rich and superior natural colors to knitwear.
Sprezzatura -- The Catwalk Analysis of Bottega Veneta
Bottega Veneta is an Italian luxury brand, founded in 1966. Distinct leather weaving technique is its best business card, and unconspicuous brand Logo is the most unique taste of Bottega Veneta. It is acquired by Kering group in 2001, and gradually out of favor when logo mania is revived around 2015. In July 2018, Daniel Lee, the former ready-to-wear director of Celine, is officially appointed as the brand creative director. Since the first collection of Daniel Lee, The Pouch and new woven items become an instant hit. Daniel Lee transforms Intrecciato into wide weaving and lattice, providing the brand with a new identity tag. Bottega Veneta wins Brand of the Year award at the British Fashion Awards in December 2019. And Daniel Lee wins three awards, including Accessory Designer of the Year, Womenswear Designer of the Year and Designer of the Year.
The Freedom to Wear -- The Catwalk Analysis of 3.1 Phillip Lim Womenswear
Inspired by the work of John Chamberlain, subtle expressions and subtle tensions in artistic works are introduced to explore the harmony and disharmony of fashion. Referring to the hardware details and the processing of gold and silver ware in Noguchi's work and jewellery, practical items are equipped with more sculpture details and asymmetric designs, keeping fashion beauty in the rhyme of body. This series displays emotions and makes the closet freer. Constantly emphasizing the contemporary spirit held by 3.1 Phillip Lim, through the mix & match of different elements and styles, we can explore more possibilities for daily clothes.
Return of Female Self-awareness -- The Catwalk Analysis of Fendi Womenswear
In S/S fashion weeks, new femininity began to take shape, and this Pre-fall series reinforces it. Silvia Venturini Fendi hides a side of freedom and rebellion. Her gift for subtlety and cleverness shapes the brands' style and endows the brand with unconventionality and uniqueness. Now she is in charge of Fendi and brings creative designs. Although works of Karl Lagerfeld also have similar spirits, Venturini Fendi adds her own style. She uses softer style to smooth out the edges, and the brand is more feminine, more graceful and gentler.
Europe in The 1930s -- The Catwalk Analysis of Giorgio Armani's Womenswear
Giorgio Armani holds his Pre-Fall 2020 show at the Armani Theater in Milan, where he presents a collection named reformism. The designer explained this name before the launch, saying: "I want women to be free to change anytime, anywhere, depending on their mood." The entire collection is inspired by women in the 1930s. Florals favored by social butterfly of the Parisian upper class in the 1920s-1930s are applied for vertical and three-dimensional transformation, and applied to printing or partial accessories to display the Giorgio Armani's integration of the East and the West. Models mainly wear short top and long trousers, which is in line with clothing collocation of French women in the 1920s-1930s. The entire show echoes the femininity of ladies in the 1930s.
The Journey of Fashion -- The Core Fabric Data of Womenswear Catwalks for S/S 2020
According to womenswear on catwalks for S/S 2020 (more than 500 brands and more than 20000 style extracted from four fashion weeks, Tokyo, Shanghai and Korean fashion weeks), we extract four major styles: the minimalist and comfortable style; the futuristic street style; modern metropolis; the romantic style. And with the rise of new femininity, the romantic style gets sweeter. The retro and tough look is emphasized in S/S 2020, injecting a retro Wall Street feel. The environmentally-friendly cotton and linen bring neat and clean looks to the minimalist and comfortable looks and add a cold feeling. In this season, the futuristic street style makes use of colors and reflective elements to display the understanding of emerging punk.
Delicacy and Utility- The Comprehensive Catwalk Analysis of Women's Leather
In catwalks of S/S 2020, natural keynote and digital style are influencing colors of women's leather and fur. In terms of middle tones and neutral colors, retro earth tones and green tones inspired by environmental protection and outdoor theme are outstanding. Black dominant in leather is added to create a rich and calm dark color palette which makes a contrast with fresh and bright colors.
Fashionable Kids- The Comprehensive Catwalk Analysis of Kidswear in Shanghai Fashion Week
SS2020 KIDS WEAR of Shanghai Fashion Week is the eighth time. This time, there are 26 kidswear brands. The show covers all domestic and foreign high-end kidswear brands, original kidswear designers brands and overseas designer brands. KIDS WEAR of this season still consists of show, interactive experience and "watch and buy". Additional collaborated kidswear is the display platform of the brand and commercial terminal. The theme is "JUST FOR FUN". Bright colors and joyful theme make us feel the release of kids' nature.