The knitwear on S/S 2023 women’s runway shows focuses on a minimalist and delicate sense. Slim-fit tanks highlight the use of material and craft. Pullovers and tees combine monochrome with stitches and details or try color blocking. The development of cardigan puts emphasis on comfort and delicacy. Dresses underline the perfect body curves of women. Pullovers highlight the sense of fashion and commuting.

Ibrahim Kamara was named the Image and Art Director of Off-White in April, and now he has debuted his Spring/Summer collection ‘Celebration’. The Spring Summer 2023 collection approaches the cusp of something new, where the unknown gives us the freedom to imagine boundless possibilities. A celebration of life, progress, and new work in process.

Balmain held its show/festival at Jean-Bouin Stadium in Paris. “We all saw climate change this summer. We all saw fires around the world. And coming back with a show in September, thinking about whether our pants are going to be high-waisted or low-waisted—it seems a bit futile to me.” So said Olivier Rousteing before the show.

Staged once again in the majestic surroundings of the Louvre in Paris, Louis Vuitton’s Spring-Summer 2023 Collection is unveiled in the museum’s Cour Carrée. For the first time, Nicolas Ghesquière has invited leading French contemporary artist Philippe Parreno and production designer James Chinlund to conceptualize the event’s spectacular set design. With metal grills, mirrors, and a myriad of lightbulbs that evoke a fairground attraction, the set is centered upon a vividly red “monster flower” with golden stamen that rise up dramatically into the Parisian sky.

“We’ve been so confined that I really wanted to celebrate going back outside, feeling the wind, the heat, the sweat on your skin,” said Hermès’s Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, who erected a sand dune in the Tennis Club de Paris to show her latest performance-wear focused collection.

Themed ‘Unboxing Valentino’, creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli ditches PP pink and returns to essence of clothing. The cutting is inspired by the sliced paintings of Lucio Fontana. Dreamy feathers, eye-catching sequins and soft sheer bring fun to the pure fashion design.

Sunnei Spring/Summer 2023 collection found inspirations from 1990s and provided a utilitarian daily wardrobe. Tartans, vests, low-rise pants and leather jackets drove the Y2K aesthetic to be mature and practical. Activewear shared the stage with evening designs, including a charming halter-neck dress with sequins peeking from a slit, and sparkly and roomy overalls.

In the middle of Soho, on the most packed London Saturday night of all, we plunged into the Vegas video gambling arcade to have our minds bent by Jonathan Anderson. The location was just next door to his JW Anderson flagship store on Wardour Street. His models made a short walk past marshals, crash barriers and hustling crowds into a place where people go for the thrill of gaming the random fates of fortune.

Spring 2023 is rooted in themes of rewilding and rechilding, made for an untamed Stella woman living freely and in harmony with nature. Stella was inspired by naturalist Miriam Rothschild and Knepp Farm in Horsham – who gave their land back to Mother Earth, allowing it to rebalance itself and restore wildlife without disturbance. Made from 85% responsible materials, it is the brand’s most sustainable collection to date.

DEW E DEW E is a Korean designer brand founded by Kim Jin-young and Lee Soo-yeon in 2014. The design of DEW E DEW E focuses on expressing female emotions. Retro girlish style is extremely loved by young Seoul girls. A/W 22/23 collection puts boldness together with practicality to develop eye-catching products. 3D handmade flower is the signature of this collection.

Sultry Virgin is an independent Chinese designer brand founded by Xu Yan in 2020. Driven by the prevalent Y2K era, S/S 2022 collection came from a perfect holiday in the dream. Sunbath, Latin drums and cocktail constituted a seaside utopia for women. Terry fabrics, glossy ripples, braided fabrics and sexy translucent materials were mixed peacefully in the collection.

Continuing the lighthearted air, Hermès released the A/W 2022 womenswear collection. The artistic director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski drew equestrian elements from the brand DNA and injected slim-fit tailoring into the clothing design. The use of knitted fabrics allowed the restraint air to be sexy and cool. The whole collection, especially the leather treatment, still reflected the fine artisanship of Hermès. These innovative pieces on the runway expressed the personality of wearer and the unique French romance.

Known as ‘the Queen of Less’, Jil Sander continues the focus on developing clothes for middle and upper class women. “We were thinking about elegance,” Lucie said. “We really wanted to focus on sculptural tailoring, almost couture-like, but we like this new energy, a very cropped silhouette.” Come fall the Jil Sander woman will be wearing a wool skirt suit, its jacket sculpted with an hourglass volume and the skirt just peeking out from beneath its hem, or a slightly longer, flippier skirt with a cape-like jacket. The Meiers have made handcrafts—macramé, crochet, and the like—an essential part of their Jil Sander aesthetic.

A/W 22/23 collection of COACH showed us love and romance. Designer mixed and matched the bestsellers in the brand history, which continued the classics as discovering a new fashion trend. With the free interpretation of models, this happy living condition was exactly people were looking for in the pandemic era. Classic, love, memories, and home were at the center of the show.

Jason Wu is a leading fashion designer in New York City who takes fineness, charm, and luxury at the center. A/W 22/23 collection drew inspiration from 1950s haute couture, and Wu modernized the styling to meet the needs of everyday wear, like a puffer coat cut in waterproof moiré with an era-appropriate midi-length circle skirt, and a bow-front cocktail dress split into a separate top and skirt for versatility. Tweeds unraveled into thick fringes and warp printing resulted in blurry, imprecise florals. All the satins were thrown in the washing machine for a less precious look. But the stars of the show were the strapless moiré party dresses, one in marigold and the other black; they delivered on the glamour of those ’50s illustrations.

Ulla Johnson is a namesake fashion brand founded in 2000, featuring sophisticated details and fine tailoring. The designs for business women reveal the street fashion in New York City and draw inspirations from the original urban power. Printing is the signature and DNA of the brand. The Fall 2022 ready-to-wear fashion show in the New York Public Library displayed the installation of Alma Allen’s sculptures and performance by PawPaw Rod. Turtlenecks, handknits, crochets, suede patchwork, and printed dresses bring back the ‘90s raves.

As a noteworthy event for designers, S/S 2022 runway started a color boom. These flamboyant and bold colors interpreted liveliness and tension. Colorless colors revealed a distinct downtrend comparing with S/S 2021. This report mainly focuses on the analysis of chromatic colors. According to the data, warm tones have increased clearly year-on-year, while cool ones trend downward; reds and greens take precedence, when blues and purples step back.

This report mainly refines the core silhouettes and items of womenswear to provide designers with intuitive references and trend guidance. According to the database of POP Fashion, dress still occupies the most proportion in S/S 2022 with a little drop. Influenced by the 60s-90s retro fashion and the sexy trend, miniskirt and minidress has returned. Outerwear is the second most category, and colored suit and oversized suit have been the key items; trench coat focuses on the oversized shape as well, which shows superlong tailoring. Tops take 23% of all the categories: cropped tight-fit T-shirt, oversized minimalist shirt, and slim cardigan interpret the new fashion trend of being sexy and simple. Among pants, high-waist loose trousers keep the momentum, while hot low-waist pants and cargo pants create unrestrained and casual looks through their loose, straight shapes.

The designer Pierpaolo Piccioli decided to get Valentino into a new dimension: life. To mark the return of Valentino's ready-to-wear to Paris, he took over the old marketplace at the Carreau du Temple, and a row of neighboring cafés and restaurants opposite, to put on a joyful all-gendered show reunion symbolically blurring the distinctions between insiders and outsiders. The opening look, an organdy flower-embroidered blouse and tiny skirt, referred to Valentino Garavani's all-white collection of 1968—immortalized in a photograph of Marisa Berenson. There was a reproduction of a slim, tiger-striped maxi coat, famously worn by Veruschka the following year—and to end with, a pair of floaty, flower-printed dresses from the '70s. Designer pitched the production towards embracing Gen Zers with a proposition of a beautiful, casualized couture wardrobe designed to float between genders: lightweight taffeta tailoring in vivid colors, plethoras of dresses from minuscule and cutaway to sweeping, embroidered caftans. The mini-maxi proportion play—like billowy volumes teamed with micro-shorts—provided a translated house glamour that captured everything the TikTok generation might relate to.

Launched at the Quai de la Tournelle in Paris, S/S 2022 Chloé runway was cooperated with many charities to underline the social responsibility of the brand and the fusion of environmental protection and creativity. This show about love interpreted the free and unlimited Bohemian spirit. Chloé Craft was also officially introduced to launch more hand-made products in the future. This collection applied regenerated wool, hand-cut plant-dyed leather and soft linen. The usage ratio of lower impact material reached 58% this season. Various sewing, weaving and whipstitching techniques have been appeared. Petal-pattern crocheted dress, knotted slip dress made of strips of leftover fabric from seasons before, and whipstitched leather renew and inherit the classics.

Christian Dior S/S 2022 ready-to-wear fashion show was held in the Paris Tuileries Garden on September 28. Maria Grazia Chiuri approached Anna Pararatti to conceive the show's scenography in an absurdist spirit reflecting the universe of her various works. Pop and game have been the core of this 60's runway. The collection is structured around a network of associations as Maria Grazia Chiuri explores Marc Bohan's long tenure as Creative Director of Dior. More precisely, she highlights the Slim Look collection, presented in 1961. A-line doll dress, mini Dior suit, 60s optical white dress and tennis dress; color-blocking outerwear and dress; orange and green boxing suit; golden fringed mini dress all awaken and overpass the elegant classics of Dior.