Based on sustainability, leather will be the main material in A/W 20/21. The leather which is designed and recycled sustainably is more advocated. The metal-free, chromium-free and vegetable dyeing are better for the environment. The superior quality sense is the key to leather and fur fabric. Berber fleece and fleece display comfort and quality sense. Optimism persists in turbulent times. The vintage era (including middle-class style) is a source of inspiration. The feminine silhouette reveals a retro feel, and the waist becomes the focus of design. The minimalism drives the rise of designs which is not restricted to seasons. Therefore, the all-over printed style declines. In this season, prints of leather and fur industry are dominated by natural landscapes and folk patterns.

LANVIN A/W 2020 womenswear show is held in Manufacture des Gobelins built in the 15th century in Paris. The show with a theme of Conversation Piece draws inspirations from the 1960s. The space age, elaborate makeup and supermodels from the 1990s work together to make the show a retro party. The creative director Bruno Sialelli connects the contemporary era and the history through a time-travel dialogue with the brand's founder Jeanne Lanvin. In this season, he reinterprets the creative ideas of Jeanne Lanvin and interprets Lanvin in different voices. The new collection takes example by Jeanne Lanvin's signature lines, formal dress style and modern graphic embroidery in the 1920s and 1930s. The graceful lines of the shoulder and structural simple cutting remind of the elegance of haute couture in the middle of the 20th century.

This report concludes the runway data of more than 220 brands in the four fashion weeks of A/W 20/21, and analyzes the catwalks with fabric as the main line. Different fabrics are applied to different styles, showing different wearing effects. Based on that, this report also combines with trendy fabrics in the new season to offer more design inspirations. Because of the retro trend, jacquard grows. Leather and pearlescent satin also change boldly. Novel deconstructed fabrics, futuristic parachute protective fabrics and traditional formal wear fabrics also get innovated in this season.

Silhouette and fabric are key elements to create the A/W 2020 series for Jonathan Anderson, the creative director of the Spanish brand Loewe. "I analyze Spanish culture and how the world looks at it", Jonathan Anderson explains backstage after the show, "I work on how to bring classic images of Spain into people's wardrobes and I really enjoy the process of building silhouettes of clothes. Last season I worked on silhouette and fabric very successfully, so this season I decide to continue this design idea." This collection is filled with a large number of simplified prints with traditional Spanish ceramic patterns as the main part. The partial silhouette of the design is based on the retro court looks. Loewe also works with ceramic artists to create lots of ceramic decorations for the ready-to-wear of this show. These are all in line with Jonathan Anderson's understanding of Spain.

In the whole A/W 2020 series of Sacai, the theme of "Universe" is not only the open-and-shut starry sky. They choose four from the thousands of images provided by NASA as the inspiration, so in this season we can see the brand turns space into beautiful fashion with the deconstruction design it has always followed. Inspired by the special issue of 2015 NASA, it works with fabric designer Alexander Girard to create a star map made up of mobile phones, letters and numbers. And the lower left corner which was to mark "Alien" presents "SACAI" now. Representative deconstruction and reorganization are used. The key design is combining light silk with high-tech fabric. Different items are combined to create a new silhouette which highlights the ethereal feel. But it doesn't blindly use lightweight fabrics. Instead, it makes use of the balance of fabric combination to design.

In this series, male and female models are in black, grey, classic Valentino red, low-key indigo and emerald. The clothing starts from basic silhouette to highlight the power of accurate cutting. Valentino, which still shows haute couture technique in the ready-to-wear series, is undoubtedly more low-key than previous seasons, but it is still meticulous about details. The series uses embroidery and print to sketch the realistic florals, adding a lively feel to the calm overcoat and the sleeveless dress.

From "leftover lady", "malechauvinist" to "sexual harassment" and "anti-domestic violence", more and more gender issues have emerged in public debate in recent years, accompanied by a feminist critique. Feminism is a series of knowledge methodology formed around the criticism of human patriarchy, and beyond the specific disciplines and research paradigms. It has become an important part of the social current of thoughts. Throughout the four fashion weeks for A/W 20/21, many brands have mentioned liberating females, female power and feminism, especially Paris Fashion Week. Christian Dior has a theme of "I SAY I" to express female power. Celine tells the story of womenswear during May 1968 events in France. Chanel puts forward the idea of liberation, and launches a series friendly to women. Valentino is the queen of the new minimalism. Miu Miu emphasizes the young lady's wear in the empire collection of the 1940s style. All of them are speaking out for women through fashionable way to show the gender mainstreaming from the perspective of gender equality under the turbulent times.

London Fashion Week is an international fashion week for fashion buyers, the news media, and the public. London fashion week ended in February this year. And it's clear that compared to previous LFW shows, this season is a little subdued. This season's London Fashion Week advocates environmentalism and no animal fur. Chinese media, fashion buyers and stars have been forced to change their work plans because of the outbreak. However, there are still many highlights.

Founded in 2010, the 10th anniversary of N°21 and Milan have been on a journey of change and adventure. The A/W 20/21 collection of N°21 uses irregular designs to point out a more novel and freer direction for females. The minimalist and fun style gets changed in this season. Young decorations like chains and clips are applied to clothing. Lots of neutral clothing with asymmetry, deconstruction and disproportionate cutting emerges in this season. The focus is the transformed collar structure and the retro disco style dominated by sequined fabrics.

In A/W 20/21 collection of Chloé, Natacha ramsa-levi, the creative director, explores the diverse female world. And she invites sculptor Marion Verboom to present sensual gold totem in the show, and musician Marianne Faithfull to read the classic literature. The iconic concrete lines from painter Rita Ackermann's works are also injected into the design of items and accessories. This season Chloe A/W 20/21 collection blends painting, sculpture and poetry into this show, adopts heather rose, dune, light brown, chestnut, dust blue and caramel, and applies paisley prints, the beaded collar and embroidery for a soft visual feel.

Milan is known as "the most artistic and modern" fashion city. This season A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week revolves around "women", "strength" and "power" to redefine fashion and build a new world of independence, freedom and creativity. This season brands return back to the high quality and pursue design and quality sense rather than spread hot styles on social networks.

The A/W 2020 collection of Christian Dior keeps speaking out for women. The installation, created by "collective artist" Claire Fontaine, features a newspaper-covered floor and slogans from the late Italian art critic and feminist Carla Lonzi. A series of neon-decorated slogans in the show and the printed headbands display the independent character of modern women. The creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, draws inspirations from her girlhood diaries and integrates with Mr. Dior's beloved check elements. (Checks made up of pastel colors like milk cocoa, light green and warm grey are endowed with more creativity, elegant and nonchalant.) And tassels are prevailing in this season. Maria Grazia Chiuri continues the theme of "female power", speaks out for women, and expresses Dior's free soul of "I SAY I" with fashion.

Inheritance and innovation are the essence of the A/W 2020 Max Mara show. This season Ian Griffiths draws inspiration from the sailor chic. Michel Foucault says, dreams will dry up without civilization on board. As Ian Griffiths puts it at the start of the show, "This is a romantic trip that starts in Morocco and goes north to Russia". The A/W 2020 collection of Max Mara is very adventurous. The compass marked with the brand name and the sailing ship lead us to experience the charm of the winter sea.

The A/W 20/21 collection of Fendi kicks off with the psychedelic sound of Alessandro Cortini, Nine Inch Nails's keyboardist. This time Silvia Venturini, the creative director of Fendi, performs the theme of Gentle Power through the combination of structure and softness, and showcases the liberation of wearable female power. This season plus-size models join the catwalk lineup for the first time. The high-waist of the crisp overcoat and the well-fitting dress accentuates female form, which echoes the pink streamlined catwalk. Retro lantern sleeves run through the whole series. Color-blocking and contrasting of classic elements fully display the role switch between boudoir and meeting room. The strap boots with sheepskin cushion and satin high-heeled shoes highlight the vampire-like enchanting temperament, in line with the theme of boudoir. The waisted design, military outerwear with flare sleeves and the crisp fabric present the powerful temperament of females in the meeting room, quite emotional. Fendi's aesthetics balances between sexiness and calmness, toughness and softness, gentleness and power.

Massimo Giorgetti, the artistic director of MSGM, who constantly looks for cultural inspiration from the past, is an unconventional hedonist. This time MSGM draws inspiration from horror films (Suspiria, Profondo rosso and The Cat O Nine Tails), and pays more attention to the clothing match and the application of prints. Besides, accessories also shine brightly on the catwalk. Models are carrying colorful bags, with gloves and scarves that belong to British nobility in the 1910s, which smartly applies the retro elements of the fashion industry and reflects the romantic girl style of MSGM.

Prada creates a surreal A/W 2020 collection for future women with the theme of "Surreal Glamour". The show displays the contradiction and duality, the technical elements and classicism, the futuristic feel and the modern feel. This series uses a tough silhouette and bright colors, bringing a surreal visual presentation. The show is designed to be a surreal space, and models are walking on the catwalk.

After the "unity of opposites" of S/S 2020 Jil Sander, this season the couple, Lucie and Luke Meier, brings the minimalist beauty of purity. The couple knows models can not fully display the emotion and temperament of clothing by just walking around the catwalk, so they put chairs in the center of the stage for models to sit down. The unique design endows the show with a different emotion. The noble feeling also brings a dramatic moment.

Gucci is always the most dramatic show of Milan Fashion Week. In A/W 2020, the creative director Alessandro Michele opens up the most confidential and private back stage to the public. The catwalk is like a doll house that combines carousel. The dreamlike presenting way and the gorgeous clothing collocation satisfy fans. The series uses a lot of kidswear details, seeming to satisfying kids' curiosity. Lace and velvet are used, which conforms with Belle Époque, one of S/S 2021 theme trends released by POP.

Since Riccardo Tisci took charge of Burberry's creative director in 2018, versatility and inclusiveness have made up Burberry's current form. After Kingdom, Tempest and Evolution, Riccardo Tisci takes Memories as the theme of A/W 20/21 Burberry. Images with mirroring and perceptive connotations are secretly displayed before the show. Skin, petal, dew... The shadow created by mirror symmetry sets the keynote of this season. The "Memories" world built by Burberry is like the alternations of virtual and real spaces with overlapping dimensions in the movie, Inception. On the catwalk, twin pianists Katia and Marielle Labeque cooperate with electronic producer Arcaper to put on a bizarre duet. For Riccardo Tisci, this series is a self-recall and reflection on memory, consciousness, perception, psychology and life.

New York Fashion Week is an international fashion week for fashion buyers, the news media, and the public. New York fashion week ended in February this year. And it's clear that compared to previous NYFW shows, this season is a little subdued. Many brands, including Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein, have dropped out of New York fashion week this season. Chinese media, fashion buyers and stars have been forced to change their work plans because of the outbreak. However, there are still many highlights.

Victoria Beckham is a high-end fashion brand founded by famous British singer and fashion designer Victoria Beckham in 2008. Victoria Beckham's own fame and her steady middle-class background make her designs unique. The 20/21 A//W series is inspired by that exhausted woman are seeking peace, and creates the style of confident wardrobe. The collection records the return of the black avant-garde silhouette and exposed neckline, negative space rhomboid knitting which is first raised by Stephan Cooke (a young London menswear designer), two pieces of Shetland knitwear (one in cornflower blue, the other in yolk yellow), flares sleeves, the dress with dense and regular smocking stitch, the finely cut check shirt, the skirt with a tough silhouette, and the layered color-blocked overcoat. These all bring a confident femininity of urban office ladies.