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The Dawn in The Darkness -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Womenswear Catwalks (Color)
Influenced by the epidemic, A/W 21/22 womenswear fashion week catwalks were presented in an irreversible digitalization trend. Most brands decided to release their latest collections online. According to the color data of A/W 21/22 catwalks, colorless(66.79%) still occupies the biggest proportion. Black becomes the most popular color; the application of white and gray colors decreases rapidly. Compared with A/W 20/21 and A/W 19/20, the proportions of black, khaki, red and yellow colors rise clearly this season; while the proportions of white, blue and orange colors reduce. Under the global background, black is the annual color of 2021. Except for colorless tone, khaki, red, yellow and blue colors become the most frequently used color tones in A/W 21/22.
Glamourous Party -- The Women Catwalk Analysis of Lanvin
Lanvin A/W 21/22 collection was presented in humor music tapes. Creative director Bruno Sialelli reinterpreted Gwen Stefani's Rich Girl(2004), and glamourous hotel hall, room, swimming pool and cars were changed into the catwalks and parties. Main golden color was combined with luxurious European decoration to provide an extreme visual feast. Bruno Sialelli combined hidden elements in the brand DNA with his memory in the early 2000s in an abstract and ideal form, which constructs a positive and delicate design tonality. Sialelli uses rhythmic and flexible pink and blue ostrich hair to provide a playful yet luxurious Lanvin girl, injecting unprecedented silhouette and wilderness into the dynamic styling. Evening for everyday. Fabrics are lustrous, tactile and sensuous: duchesse satin, taffeta, silk charmeuse, silk crepe, the glamour of animal-print faux fur. Dresses and coats flow around the body, backs gently caped, lending ceremony to every gesture - a mood of couture from the oldest Parisian maison. Lanvin also cooperates with James Rosenquist Foundation. And feminine modern prints like flowers, lipstick and pearl are applied to salute to American Pop artists' works.
Feminine Power -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of Jil Sander
German fashion brand Jil Sander was officially purchased by Only the Brave on March 7,2021, joining in the groups of Diesel, Maison Margiela, Marni, Viktor&Rolf, Staff international and Brave Kid. The A/W 21/22 Jil Sander collection was presented online, and the campaign was shot in a hotel in Le Marais. Lucie and Luke Meier remain as creative directors. This collection has clinical significance that can prove our current crisis mode. Long gloves have an operable sense. And they are made of leather without liner and medical crayon, which can make people think of the current epidemic. Monochrome leather trousers use crinkles to produce the emotion of operation. Jil Sander conveys the Purism boldly through direct outerwear and dress, hand-spun dress with tassels and charming underwear dress with lace. Large and gorgeous overall silhouette of this collection hopes people to feel better, and to feel their own power and strength.
An Ode to Milan's Underground Nightlife -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of MSGM
The MSGM A/W 2021 womenswear collection is an ode to Milan's underground nightlife, and also to the desire for going back to dance floors. This collection is modeled on a cast of young dancers and performers. After experiencing such many impacts, MSGM is preparing for a restart and relight the bright of Milan. The creative director Massimo Giorgetti releases the A/W 2021 womenswear collection, Manifesto. It is a collective labor of love, involving Flash Art publisher Gea Politi, visual artist Alessandro Calabrese, movie director Francesco Coppola, and Club Domani's DJ Sergio Tavelli and Andrea Ratti. Together they produced a cinematic video with a spoken-word soundtrack by Politi shot in Milan's historic Teatro Manzoni.
Three Acts -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of Hermes
The Hermès A/W 21/22 runway show is presented in three citys, New York, Paris and Shanghai. This Three Acts uses three distinct forms to show the fashion sequence. The first act is at Park Avenue Armory, New York, American choreographer Madeline Hollander opened the fashion show with a dance inspired by the rhythm of New York pedestrians. The second act is at the La Garde Républicaine of Paris. And the third is presented at Shanghai Maison Hermès. The Chinese choreographer Gu Jia’ni is inspired by the Eight Diagrams and uses body rhythm to present great power and passion. The womenswear collection this season expresses the desire to explore the sensibility of the new era, which breaks the thinking and habits and absorbs different cultures. The models who look like Amazon women warriors are marching with new collection, presenting mystery, power and aura. The fabrics and crinkle designs which break through the conventions echo the soft and thermal cashmere, delivering the message of self-rebuilding.
Environmental Protection and Folklore -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of Chloé
A/W 2021 Chloé collection was launched on time in Paris Fashion Week at 8:30 p.m. on March 3(Beijing Time). It's the first collection of the new creative director Gabriela Hearst. Several trailers were released before the runway officially, the warm colors and mottled light and shade indicated the languid and thermal tonality this season. This runway show was launched through a creative short film, and models came out of the cafes on the streets of Paris with a strong sense of rhythm. The background music of the short film is produced by Juan Campodonico, the four-time-winner of the Latin Grammy Awards. On the basis of electronic sound, it integrates Latin American folk music with strong sense of rhythm and dynamic drumbeats. Models crossed the zebra crossing and came to the main catwalk, a wide slate road. Inspired by the sustainable concept, creative director Gabriela Hearst uses 30 new looks to interpret the Chloé girls with environmental duty. It is a show of environmental protection. Not only the natural runway, over 50% of silk comes from organic agriculture and over 80% of knit cashmere yarn is recyclable. Minimalist monochrome jewelry reduces the pollution of electroplating process. And the liner of handbags uses natural linen cloths.
70th Anniversary, Return of the Queen -- The Catwalk Analysis of Max Mara
Founded by Archille Maramotti in 1951, the Italian fashion brand Max Mara is famous for its high-quality overcoat. The founder said that all he paid attention to was the wives of Italy's male professionals. And to celebrate the 70th anniversary of the brand, there were 42 looks released in this runway under the theme "1951". Combining with its historical background, Max Mara rebuilds the aesthetic essence in the last century.
Advanced Relaxation -- The Catwalk Analysis of Victoria Beckam
From Manchester to Madrid and now Miami, Victoria Beckham has always tempered her fashion reinventions to her environments. "The way they dress here is so different from anything I've seen in my entire life. It's just fantastic. It's a less-is-more approach," she said with a big smile via a video call from the Magic City, where her husband, David, is working on his soccer team, Inter Miami. Her new collection wasn't an exercise in scanty dressing, but the sparse public wardrobes of her temporary home did somehow echo her post-pandemic ethos. "It's more relaxed. The little details we used to obsess over—there's less of that. We weren't in a position to do that, to be honest with you, and I like this sense of freedom," Beckham explained.
Low-key Luxurious Practicalism -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of Fendi
The design inspiration this season is related to the Fendi family, these famous five Fendi sisters. Starting from their wardrobes, Kim Jones makes the character and taste of each one into a distinct women and dressing style, creating brand new Fendi Women. Low-key luxury is the main tonality of the whole collection. Instead of direct color impact, Kim Jones uses the low-key luxury to hold this fashion feast. Rose gold color, eye-catching monochrome wool and soft mink skin fully present the dressing requirements of women. Kim Jones foretold on Instagram that the new collection was inspired from the timeless design of Karl Lagerfeld, which endowed the classic elements with modern temperament. The F-shaped glass houses on the runway replace the Roman columns and classical sculptures. It is not difficult to see Kim Jones' cultural heritage of Fendi, the Italian brand with a long history, and his practice of the concept of circular environmental protection.
Healing and Classic -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Menswear Catwalks (Color)
Healing colors like Pristine, soft pink and neutral colors are the main color tones for A/W 21/22 menswear. And the gentle Yellow Iris provides an optimistic life style. The winter vibe brought by Chocolate Truffle, Ginger Bread and Military Olive presents luxurious, practical and retro tonality in the menswear catwalks.
The Balance Between Street and Formal -- The Menswear Catwalk Analysis of Louis Vuitton
The Louis Vuitton A/W 21/22 collection inspires from Stranger in the Village written by James Baldwin in 1953 and brings us charming designs under the theme Art of Travel. Taking the abstract marble as the setting of catwalks, the unique design brings both street and futuristic feeling, and also the hip-hop vibe. The abstract broad silhouette, marble color application, bright check patterns and metallic colors provide inspiration to men's dressing collocation this season. The gender-free pleated dress is more like Virgil Abloh's new attempt to get Louis Vuitton out of the old conventions.
Blend of French Aesthetics and Oriental Charm -- Analysis of Lanvin Men's and Women's Catwalks
Bruno Sialelli, creative director of Lanvin, mixes the traditional with the modern, starts a time travel in Shanghai, and unveils its S/S 2021 collection, Yu Garden. This new series also works as the special preheating activity of the third China International Import Expo, presenting the brand's core history, classic collections and profound cultural connotation. Bruno Sialelli nods to brand's classics through 58 looks, brings audience to the 1920s, and relates Lanvin's heyday to the present. The electronic misc band, Mandarin, opens this collection with Echo, and musics are under the charge of the lead singer Chace. In addition, Lanvin also invites artists such as Li Wenhan Mu Ziyang and Liu Lingzi as models, mixing the past and the present, the western and the oriental.
The Comprehensive Analysis of Selected Catwalks in Other Areas
Fashion week has undoubtedly had a huge impact on the fashion industry. In addition to the four major fashion weeks, other fashion weeks are also influential. Their styles and details present a casual design sense. Most of them have a strong impact on current market.
Color Impact -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Women's Leather/Fur on Catwalks
With the change of lifestyle, sustainability and durability become the driving force of design. Transseasonal color proportion and natural tones are emphasized. Autumn tones, neutral camel tones and grey tones are increasingly important. Gem palette is enchanting and charming. Rocky Road and Chicory Coffee enhance the importance of deep brown colors. Preppy red is the key color of the right palette. A single color is used to create a simplified and individualized appearance.
Focus on Placement -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Catwalk Details
Based on the data of A/W 20/21 four fashion weeks, this report analyzes different parts and placement details of clothing, explores the beauty of details and provides inspiration for extreme details.
Confidence Under The Softness -- The Catwalk Analysis of Bottega Veneta Womenswear
Known as the Italian Hermès, Bottega Veneta is confident, elegant and self-loyal. At the end of 2019, the BV team, led by new creative director Daniel Lee, sweeps the British fashion awards, making it one of the biggest shows in Milan Fashion Week. The A/W 20/21 collection of Bottega Veneta is launched in Milan. The show uses projector to reproduce the architecture of Renaissance Italian architect Andrea Palladio. The new season of Bottega Veneta is no more serious, but filled with fluorescent tones like kiwi green, creating the symbolic colors for the future. Daniel Lee uses 59 looks to show female confidence hidden in softness, present the pure self-expression, and create the intellectual urban style. The materials used in this show are reusable and recyclable. The backstage catering also uses organic foods and biodegradable tableware, and surplus food is donated to NGO, showing the sustainable and anti-waste fashion attitude.
Style, Item and Fabric -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Women's Leather/ Fur Clothing on Catwalks
Based on sustainability, leather will be the main material in A/W 20/21. The leather which is designed and recycled sustainably is more advocated. The metal-free, chromium-free and vegetable dyeing are better for the environment. The superior quality sense is the key to leather and fur fabric. Berber fleece and fleece display comfort and quality sense. Optimism persists in turbulent times. The vintage era (including middle-class style) is a source of inspiration. The feminine silhouette reveals a retro feel, and the waist becomes the focus of design. The minimalism drives the rise of designs which is not restricted to seasons. Therefore, the all-over printed style declines. In this season, prints of leather and fur industry are dominated by natural landscapes and folk patterns.
Elegance of History -- The Catwalk Analysis of LANVIN Womenswear
LANVIN A/W 2020 womenswear show is held in Manufacture des Gobelins built in the 15th century in Paris. The show with a theme of Conversation Piece draws inspirations from the 1960s. The space age, elaborate makeup and supermodels from the 1990s work together to make the show a retro party. The creative director Bruno Sialelli connects the contemporary era and the history through a time-travel dialogue with the brand's founder Jeanne Lanvin. In this season, he reinterprets the creative ideas of Jeanne Lanvin and interprets Lanvin in different voices. The new collection takes example by Jeanne Lanvin's signature lines, formal dress style and modern graphic embroidery in the 1920s and 1930s. The graceful lines of the shoulder and structural simple cutting remind of the elegance of haute couture in the middle of the 20th century.
Exploring New Touch -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Womenswear Fabrics on Catwalks
This report concludes the runway data of more than 220 brands in the four fashion weeks of A/W 20/21, and analyzes the catwalks with fabric as the main line. Different fabrics are applied to different styles, showing different wearing effects. Based on that, this report also combines with trendy fabrics in the new season to offer more design inspirations. Because of the retro trend, jacquard grows. Leather and pearlescent satin also change boldly. Novel deconstructed fabrics, futuristic parachute protective fabrics and traditional formal wear fabrics also get innovated in this season.
Classicism and Art -- The Catwalk Analysis of Loewe Womenswear
Silhouette and fabric are key elements to create the A/W 2020 series for Jonathan Anderson, the creative director of the Spanish brand Loewe. "I analyze Spanish culture and how the world looks at it", Jonathan Anderson explains backstage after the show, "I work on how to bring classic images of Spain into people's wardrobes and I really enjoy the process of building silhouettes of clothes. Last season I worked on silhouette and fabric very successfully, so this season I decide to continue this design idea." This collection is filled with a large number of simplified prints with traditional Spanish ceramic patterns as the main part. The partial silhouette of the design is based on the retro court looks. Loewe also works with ceramic artists to create lots of ceramic decorations for the ready-to-wear of this show. These are all in line with Jonathan Anderson's understanding of Spain.
Infinite Starry Sky -- The Catwalk Analysis of Saicai Womenswear
In the whole A/W 2020 series of Sacai, the theme of "Universe" is not only the open-and-shut starry sky. They choose four from the thousands of images provided by NASA as the inspiration, so in this season we can see the brand turns space into beautiful fashion with the deconstruction design it has always followed. Inspired by the special issue of 2015 NASA, it works with fabric designer Alexander Girard to create a star map made up of mobile phones, letters and numbers. And the lower left corner which was to mark "Alien" presents "SACAI" now. Representative deconstruction and reorganization are used. The key design is combining light silk with high-tech fabric. Different items are combined to create a new silhouette which highlights the ethereal feel. But it doesn't blindly use lightweight fabrics. Instead, it makes use of the balance of fabric combination to design.
Rose in The Dark Night -- The Catwalk Analysis of Valentino Womenswear
In this series, male and female models are in black, grey, classic Valentino red, low-key indigo and emerald. The clothing starts from basic silhouette to highlight the power of accurate cutting. Valentino, which still shows haute couture technique in the ready-to-wear series, is undoubtedly more low-key than previous seasons, but it is still meticulous about details. The series uses embroidery and print to sketch the realistic florals, adding a lively feel to the calm overcoat and the sleeveless dress.
Releasing Female Power -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Paris Fashion Week
From "leftover lady", "malechauvinist" to "sexual harassment" and "anti-domestic violence", more and more gender issues have emerged in public debate in recent years, accompanied by a feminist critique. Feminism is a series of knowledge methodology formed around the criticism of human patriarchy, and beyond the specific disciplines and research paradigms. It has become an important part of the social current of thoughts. Throughout the four fashion weeks for A/W 20/21, many brands have mentioned liberating females, female power and feminism, especially Paris Fashion Week. Christian Dior has a theme of "I SAY I" to express female power. Celine tells the story of womenswear during May 1968 events in France. Chanel puts forward the idea of liberation, and launches a series friendly to women. Valentino is the queen of the new minimalism. Miu Miu emphasizes the young lady's wear in the empire collection of the 1940s style. All of them are speaking out for women through fashionable way to show the gender mainstreaming from the perspective of gender equality under the turbulent times.
Innovate The Classic -- The Comprehensive Analysis of London Fashion Week
London Fashion Week is an international fashion week for fashion buyers, the news media, and the public. London fashion week ended in February this year. And it's clear that compared to previous LFW shows, this season is a little subdued. This season's London Fashion Week advocates environmentalism and no animal fur. Chinese media, fashion buyers and stars have been forced to change their work plans because of the outbreak. However, there are still many highlights.