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Beauty of Black and White -- The Catwalk Analysis of Ports 1961 Womenswear
PORTS 1961 S/S 2021 show is held at Da Vinci Museum of Technology in Milan. For art director Karl Templer, the new season is an exploration of the sensory and connection between clothing and the wearer. Those draped or swaying textiles actually represent a close relationship. Black and white dominate, with red and yellow as decorations. Abstract prints, soft details, ethereal hemline, strappy sandals and high-heels all enrich the visual effect. And this season it blends with illustrations of Aubrey Beardsley. Black and white pictures leave much blank space, showing the free and artistic temperament of modern females.
The Intangible Hell -- The Catwalk Analysis of SPORT MAX Womenswear
This collection draws inspiration from poems of American poet Walt Whitman and injects Emotional Purity into surreal silhouettes. With the reference of L'Enfer (an experimental visual video) by Romy Schneider, it breaks stereotypes, combines high-tech materials with soft fabrics, creates a translucent and layered visual effect, and displays female form.
IN BLOOM -- The Analysis of Burberry Womenswear Catwalk
Burberry S/S 2021 fashion show is held online. As the first brand to confirm the schedule in London Fashion Week, the opening show of Burberry is successfully held in the sea, woods, music and arts. The theme of S/S 2021 is IN BLOOM. The series is inspired by a modern love story between a mermaid and a shark. Riccardo Tisci reproduces the root and essence of the brand, water. He uses unique water-proof fabrics, fuses fairy tale and marine creatures with lighthouse patterns, and brings water elements into the series.
Simple and Comfy -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Men's Leather Clothing on Catwalks
Affected by this COVID-19 pandemic, fashion weeks are presented in a new way. With "less but better" consumption idea and higher demand for durable products, this season men's leather and fur clothing uses low-key and classic silhouettes to balance between the past and the present. Emotional designs create all-year items. Renewed designs, emphasized silhouettes, comfort and practicality offer consumers a relaxing and casual style.
Game On -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Louis Vuitton Womenswear
Louis Vuitton 2021 Resort collection draws inspiration from Static Journey, takes "Game On" as the theme and explores inner emotions. Items of this collection are shot in the studio in Paris of Nicolas Ghesquiere, the womenswear art director. Nicolas Ghesquiere compares fashion creation to adventures in games. The collection consists of two parts, Quotidian and Playing Cards. Playing cards become main design elements of bags in the new season. Classic monogram mixes with four suits of playing cards, or bags are designed to be playing cards, hearts and dice. This collection takes us on a relaxing and unique resort journey.
Color Impact -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Women's Leather/Fur on Catwalks
With the change of lifestyle, sustainability and durability become the driving force of design. Transseasonal color proportion and natural tones are emphasized. Autumn tones, neutral camel tones and grey tones are increasingly important. Gem palette is enchanting and charming. Rocky Road and Chicory Coffee enhance the importance of deep brown colors. Preppy red is the key color of the right palette. A single color is used to create a simplified and individualized appearance.
Confidence Under The Softness -- The Catwalk Analysis of Bottega Veneta Womenswear
Known as the Italian Hermès, Bottega Veneta is confident, elegant and self-loyal. At the end of 2019, the BV team, led by new creative director Daniel Lee, sweeps the British fashion awards, making it one of the biggest shows in Milan Fashion Week. The A/W 20/21 collection of Bottega Veneta is launched in Milan. The show uses projector to reproduce the architecture of Renaissance Italian architect Andrea Palladio. The new season of Bottega Veneta is no more serious, but filled with fluorescent tones like kiwi green, creating the symbolic colors for the future. Daniel Lee uses 59 looks to show female confidence hidden in softness, present the pure self-expression, and create the intellectual urban style. The materials used in this show are reusable and recyclable. The backstage catering also uses organic foods and biodegradable tableware, and surplus food is donated to NGO, showing the sustainable and anti-waste fashion attitude.
Craft, Detail and Pattern -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Women's Leather/ Fur Clothing on Catwalks
Nowadays, fashion is like the melting pot, and not restricted to rules or outdated concepts. "Almighty" is the core feeling brought by A/W 2020 shows. Designers smartly use innovative crafts to create leather and fur clothing. Here we conclude core trends on these international catwalks, such as the printed mink fur, leather, ruffle and splicing.
Style, Item and Fabric -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Women's Leather/ Fur Clothing on Catwalks
Based on sustainability, leather will be the main material in A/W 20/21. The leather which is designed and recycled sustainably is more advocated. The metal-free, chromium-free and vegetable dyeing are better for the environment. The superior quality sense is the key to leather and fur fabric. Berber fleece and fleece display comfort and quality sense. Optimism persists in turbulent times. The vintage era (including middle-class style) is a source of inspiration. The feminine silhouette reveals a retro feel, and the waist becomes the focus of design. The minimalism drives the rise of designs which is not restricted to seasons. Therefore, the all-over printed style declines. In this season, prints of leather and fur industry are dominated by natural landscapes and folk patterns.
Elegance of History -- The Catwalk Analysis of LANVIN Womenswear
LANVIN A/W 2020 womenswear show is held in Manufacture des Gobelins built in the 15th century in Paris. The show with a theme of Conversation Piece draws inspirations from the 1960s. The space age, elaborate makeup and supermodels from the 1990s work together to make the show a retro party. The creative director Bruno Sialelli connects the contemporary era and the history through a time-travel dialogue with the brand's founder Jeanne Lanvin. In this season, he reinterprets the creative ideas of Jeanne Lanvin and interprets Lanvin in different voices. The new collection takes example by Jeanne Lanvin's signature lines, formal dress style and modern graphic embroidery in the 1920s and 1930s. The graceful lines of the shoulder and structural simple cutting remind of the elegance of haute couture in the middle of the 20th century.
Classicism and Art -- The Catwalk Analysis of Loewe Womenswear
Silhouette and fabric are key elements to create the A/W 2020 series for Jonathan Anderson, the creative director of the Spanish brand Loewe. "I analyze Spanish culture and how the world looks at it", Jonathan Anderson explains backstage after the show, "I work on how to bring classic images of Spain into people's wardrobes and I really enjoy the process of building silhouettes of clothes. Last season I worked on silhouette and fabric very successfully, so this season I decide to continue this design idea." This collection is filled with a large number of simplified prints with traditional Spanish ceramic patterns as the main part. The partial silhouette of the design is based on the retro court looks. Loewe also works with ceramic artists to create lots of ceramic decorations for the ready-to-wear of this show. These are all in line with Jonathan Anderson's understanding of Spain.
Infinite Starry Sky -- The Catwalk Analysis of Saicai Womenswear
In the whole A/W 2020 series of Sacai, the theme of "Universe" is not only the open-and-shut starry sky. They choose four from the thousands of images provided by NASA as the inspiration, so in this season we can see the brand turns space into beautiful fashion with the deconstruction design it has always followed. Inspired by the special issue of 2015 NASA, it works with fabric designer Alexander Girard to create a star map made up of mobile phones, letters and numbers. And the lower left corner which was to mark "Alien" presents "SACAI" now. Representative deconstruction and reorganization are used. The key design is combining light silk with high-tech fabric. Different items are combined to create a new silhouette which highlights the ethereal feel. But it doesn't blindly use lightweight fabrics. Instead, it makes use of the balance of fabric combination to design.
Rose in The Dark Night -- The Catwalk Analysis of Valentino Womenswear
In this series, male and female models are in black, grey, classic Valentino red, low-key indigo and emerald. The clothing starts from basic silhouette to highlight the power of accurate cutting. Valentino, which still shows haute couture technique in the ready-to-wear series, is undoubtedly more low-key than previous seasons, but it is still meticulous about details. The series uses embroidery and print to sketch the realistic florals, adding a lively feel to the calm overcoat and the sleeveless dress.
Releasing Female Power -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Paris Fashion Week
From "leftover lady", "malechauvinist" to "sexual harassment" and "anti-domestic violence", more and more gender issues have emerged in public debate in recent years, accompanied by a feminist critique. Feminism is a series of knowledge methodology formed around the criticism of human patriarchy, and beyond the specific disciplines and research paradigms. It has become an important part of the social current of thoughts. Throughout the four fashion weeks for A/W 20/21, many brands have mentioned liberating females, female power and feminism, especially Paris Fashion Week. Christian Dior has a theme of "I SAY I" to express female power. Celine tells the story of womenswear during May 1968 events in France. Chanel puts forward the idea of liberation, and launches a series friendly to women. Valentino is the queen of the new minimalism. Miu Miu emphasizes the young lady's wear in the empire collection of the 1940s style. All of them are speaking out for women through fashionable way to show the gender mainstreaming from the perspective of gender equality under the turbulent times.
Innovate The Classic -- The Comprehensive Analysis of London Fashion Week
London Fashion Week is an international fashion week for fashion buyers, the news media, and the public. London fashion week ended in February this year. And it's clear that compared to previous LFW shows, this season is a little subdued. This season's London Fashion Week advocates environmentalism and no animal fur. Chinese media, fashion buyers and stars have been forced to change their work plans because of the outbreak. However, there are still many highlights.
The Integration of Luxury with Sports -- The Catwalks Analysis of Off-White Womenswear
This season Off-White teams up with Arc'teryx to put on a womenswear show with a theme of "Slighty Off", creating a collection that blends luxury and sports. The collaboration of Off-white with Arc'teryx breaks the stereotype that the outdoor clothing only focuses on functionality but has no distinctive appearance, and the impression that high fashion is dominated by suits, dresses and high heels.
Autonomy -- The Catwalk Analysis of N°21 Womenswear
Founded in 2010, the 10th anniversary of N°21 and Milan have been on a journey of change and adventure. The A/W 20/21 collection of N°21 uses irregular designs to point out a more novel and freer direction for females. The minimalist and fun style gets changed in this season. Young decorations like chains and clips are applied to clothing. Lots of neutral clothing with asymmetry, deconstruction and disproportionate cutting emerges in this season. The focus is the transformed collar structure and the retro disco style dominated by sequined fabrics.
A New World -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Milan Fashion Week Womenswear
Milan is known as "the most artistic and modern" fashion city. This season A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week revolves around "women", "strength" and "power" to redefine fashion and build a new world of independence, freedom and creativity. This season brands return back to the high quality and pursue design and quality sense rather than spread hot styles on social networks.
Female Power of "I SAY I" – The Catwalk Analysis of Christian Dior Womenswear
The A/W 2020 collection of Christian Dior keeps speaking out for women. The installation, created by "collective artist" Claire Fontaine, features a newspaper-covered floor and slogans from the late Italian art critic and feminist Carla Lonzi. A series of neon-decorated slogans in the show and the printed headbands display the independent character of modern women. The creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, draws inspirations from her girlhood diaries and integrates with Mr. Dior's beloved check elements. (Checks made up of pastel colors like milk cocoa, light green and warm grey are endowed with more creativity, elegant and nonchalant.) And tassels are prevailing in this season. Maria Grazia Chiuri continues the theme of "female power", speaks out for women, and expresses Dior's free soul of "I SAY I" with fashion.
Navigation Season -- The Catwalk Analysis of Max Mara Womenswear
Inheritance and innovation are the essence of the A/W 2020 Max Mara show. This season Ian Griffiths draws inspiration from the sailor chic. Michel Foucault says, dreams will dry up without civilization on board. As Ian Griffiths puts it at the start of the show, "This is a romantic trip that starts in Morocco and goes north to Russia". The A/W 2020 collection of Max Mara is very adventurous. The compass marked with the brand name and the sailing ship lead us to experience the charm of the winter sea.
Liberating Gentle Power -- The Catwalk Analysis of Fendi Womenswear
The A/W 20/21 collection of Fendi kicks off with the psychedelic sound of Alessandro Cortini, Nine Inch Nails's keyboardist. This time Silvia Venturini, the creative director of Fendi, performs the theme of Gentle Power through the combination of structure and softness, and showcases the liberation of wearable female power. This season plus-size models join the catwalk lineup for the first time. The high-waist of the crisp overcoat and the well-fitting dress accentuates female form, which echoes the pink streamlined catwalk. Retro lantern sleeves run through the whole series. Color-blocking and contrasting of classic elements fully display the role switch between boudoir and meeting room. The strap boots with sheepskin cushion and satin high-heeled shoes highlight the vampire-like enchanting temperament, in line with the theme of boudoir. The waisted design, military outerwear with flare sleeves and the crisp fabric present the powerful temperament of females in the meeting room, quite emotional. Fendi's aesthetics balances between sexiness and calmness, toughness and softness, gentleness and power.
Racing and Sailing -- The Catwalks Analysis of Tommy Hilfiger Womenswear
This season, the New York brand, Tommy Hilfiger, heads to London Fashion Week for its A/W 2020 collection. The brand keeps its vision of "vision to waste nothing and welcome all" and continues its exploration in sustainable fashion. In the A/W 2020 show, Tommy Hilfiger and Lewis Hamilton work together to create a new collection inspired by racers. More than 75% of styles are made in sustainable ways, including 100% organic cotton, recycled materials, down substitute and washed denim. The collection combines the traditional menswear of Tommy Hilfiger and the street style of Lewis Hamilton, and mixes burnt olive, neutral tones with highly saturated neon colors.
A Doll's House in Fairy Tale -- The Catwalks Analysis of Gucci Womenswear
Gucci is always the most dramatic show of Milan Fashion Week. In A/W 2020, the creative director Alessandro Michele opens up the most confidential and private back stage to the public. The catwalk is like a doll house that combines carousel. The dreamlike presenting way and the gorgeous clothing collocation satisfy fans. The series uses a lot of kidswear details, seeming to satisfying kids' curiosity. Lace and velvet are used, which conforms with Belle Époque, one of S/S 2021 theme trends released by POP.
Memories -- The Catwalk Analysis of Burberry Womenswear
Since Riccardo Tisci took charge of Burberry's creative director in 2018, versatility and inclusiveness have made up Burberry's current form. After Kingdom, Tempest and Evolution, Riccardo Tisci takes Memories as the theme of A/W 20/21 Burberry. Images with mirroring and perceptive connotations are secretly displayed before the show. Skin, petal, dew... The shadow created by mirror symmetry sets the keynote of this season. The "Memories" world built by Burberry is like the alternations of virtual and real spaces with overlapping dimensions in the movie, Inception. On the catwalk, twin pianists Katia and Marielle Labeque cooperate with electronic producer Arcaper to put on a bizarre duet. For Riccardo Tisci, this series is a self-recall and reflection on memory, consciousness, perception, psychology and life.