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Gorgeous Taste -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of Christian Dior
Dior launched its latest 2021 early-autumn womenswear series, originated from the leopard striped trench coat once designed by the brand founder Christian Dior. And its bright color tones, transparency and flickers pay tribute to Elio Fiorucci, the representative of Pop aesthetics. Maira Grazia Chiuri also watched the documentary of Blackpink during the quarantine. The fashion of K-pop girl groups is including in the inspiration of this season's mood board as well.
Highlight Placement -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Catwalk Details
This report is based on the analysis of the data of the four major fashion weeks in S/S 2021. In this report, catwalk data divided by garment area and palcement details are theme of the analysis. Designers breaks through the iimitation of multi brand theme inspiration design. From the aspect of natural and eco-friendly, home office, rebirth and sustainable, French style and so on to explore essence of the design details. And provides inspiration for the process of superb details. Design details used in different part brings a different design psychology for garments and conveys a fashionable attitude.
Rebirth & Close to Nature -- The Comprehensive Analysis of New York Fashion Week
Due to COVID-19, this year New York Fashion Week has been shortened from the usual eight days to four, and fewer than 10 designers hold physical shows for their latest collections. Despite the severe condition in New York, many brands still hold fashion shows offline, which reveals the determination of the whole fashion industry to survive and return to happiness. Many designers draw inspiration from the relationship between man and nature, and some put the show in the woods. Beautiful flowers and nature-inspired patterns characterize this season. In the meantime, people are stuck at home, and they have a growing demand for home decorations. Therefore, diverse and eco-friendly concept is also warmly welcomed in S/S 2021. This season features exaggerated expressions, such as the big bowknot, spreading ruffles and dramatic hem designs, as well as various joyful colors which represent hope and rebirth.
Outerwear -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Fabrics on Womenswear Catwalks
S/S 2021 fashion weeks just end. Due to COVID-19, many brands exert their creativity and imagination, such as live streaming, VR show, creative short film and so on. This season outerwear interprets an independent dressing style, and fuses with post-COVID key words such as commute, practicality and functionality to deliver a genderless gentle contradictory feel. Outerwear re-creates classic feminine tones, and employs oversized comfy silhouettes and functional fabrics to be closer to our daily life.
Minimalist and Young -- The Catwalk Analysis of Jil Sander Womenswear
Jil Sander is the representative brand of minimalism, founded by a German designer and later merged by Prada. In 2017, Luke and Lucie Meier took over Jil Sander as creative directors. Luke Meier, who worked eight years as the chief designer of Supreme, has a background in street fashion that makes up for years of Jil Sander's neglect of the youth market. Lucie Meier has worked at haute couture brands like Dior, Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga, helping to keep the simple and elegant style of Jil Sander. Its S/S 2021 womenswear continues the fine and delicate DNA, employs cotton, recycled polyester and mulberry silk, and accentuates female graceful form via embroideries, creating simple yet ethereal looks.
The Art of Being Self -- The Catwalk Analysis of MSGM Womenswear
This season, MSGM shoots the video from twelve angles, full of questions and answers about the origins of identity and the art of being selves. This time models themselves press the shutter button in the studio to capture images. Lots of straw prints, tie-dyed edges and decorative beads play a key role this season.
Gender-Neutral Journey -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Louis Vuitton Womenswear
Louis Vuitton catwalk just ends in La Samaritaine, which also marks the end of Paris Fashion Week this year. It brings a future fashion proposition that urgently needs to be thought and solved - what potential does fashion have after removing all the boundaries of gender and function? Nicolas Ghesquière, a self-proclaimed "time conflict" enthusiast, has never stopped combining hot topics of social development with clothing in different periods. This season Louis Vuitton S/S 2021 collection spans five eras, and discusses gender non-dualization. Nicolas blurs gender boundary, displays creativity and creates a space for imagination, thus embracing the sensitive and unknown world and blending contradictory elements like the past and the future, softness and toughness, elegance and street fashion. The show makes use of a green curtain to bring audience into a vivid scene, and they can rotate 360 degrees in their own seats. Moreover, online audience see footage from Der Himmel über Berlin by Wim Wenders film in 1987, interacting with the online fashion show.
French Flavor -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Paris Fashion Week
Due to this pandemic, online New York Fashion and London Fashion Week almost gain no attention. But more brands hold physical fashion shows in Milan Fashion Week. Paris Fashion Week from September 28th to October 6th seems even more unique. 84 brands join it; 18 brands including Dior, Louis Vuitton and Chanel hold physical shows; there are also 29 static shows. This time Paris Fashion Week focuses on eulogizing nature, French flavor and Chinese elements, to inspire people to get closer to nature, inherit French romanticism and rebuild confidence in future life.
Practical Luxury -- The Catwalk Analysis of DIOR MEN Menswear
DIOR MEN Resort 2021 by Kim Jones features practicality, business leisure and young street fashion. The collection is displayed on lookbook, more casual than catwalk collection. It is luxurious yet wearable. This series covers shorts and matching camp shirts in S/S 2021 collection, as well as its symbolic monogram. It also pairs stripes with light tones for a soothing yet vigorous feeling. Intense cold tones like crayon, calm black and leather, argyles and stripes mix with each other and depict vibrant pictures. In addition to smooth lines, crisp silhouette and elaborate crafts, functional elements such as key pendant and climbing hook also display practicality.
Cycle From Day to Night -- The Catwalk Analysis of Acne Studio Womenswear
This series blurs time and presents the endless cycle from day to night, so it inspires an experimental feature, mixes with contrasts, and displays diversified and relaxed works. This collection centers on materials which will change along with light, including crack leather, pearlescent cotton, metallic organza and pearl paper.
Trench Coats & Outerwear -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Fabrics on Menswear Catwalks
As a result of COVID-19, S/S 2021 four major fashion weeks are held both online and offline. This season men's trench coats and outerwear blend functionality with practicality in either fabrics or designs. Blends of combed wool and sheeny materials become the key fabric this season, leading a new trend for trench coats and outerwear and fusing fashion with daily life.
Timeless Thoughts -- The Catwalk Analysis of Giorgio Armani Womenswear
Although 2020 is full of changes, the classic elegant style of Giorgio Armani shows no changes. Its S/S 2021 series has a theme of Timeless Thoughts, and uses TV live for the first time on channels, the brand's social media and platform of Italy's National Fashion Chamber of Commerce. Besides, it shoots a 20-mniute Giorgio Armani documentary, and invites Pierfrancesco Favino to elaborate images, memories and classic interviews, thus interpreting its timeless style. Mr. Armani reiterates, "I like things that get old but never go out of style. They are time-tested."
Beauty of Black and White -- The Catwalk Analysis of Ports 1961 Womenswear
PORTS 1961 S/S 2021 show is held at Da Vinci Museum of Technology in Milan. For art director Karl Templer, the new season is an exploration of the sensory and connection between clothing and the wearer. Those draped or swaying textiles actually represent a close relationship. Black and white dominate, with red and yellow as decorations. Abstract prints, soft details, ethereal hemline, strappy sandals and high-heels all enrich the visual effect. And this season it blends with illustrations of Aubrey Beardsley. Black and white pictures leave much blank space, showing the free and artistic temperament of modern females.
The Intangible Hell -- The Catwalk Analysis of SPORT MAX Womenswear
This collection draws inspiration from poems of American poet Walt Whitman and injects Emotional Purity into surreal silhouettes. With the reference of L'Enfer (an experimental visual video) by Romy Schneider, it breaks stereotypes, combines high-tech materials with soft fabrics, creates a translucent and layered visual effect, and displays female form.
IN BLOOM -- The Analysis of Burberry Womenswear Catwalk
Burberry S/S 2021 fashion show is held online. As the first brand to confirm the schedule in London Fashion Week, the opening show of Burberry is successfully held in the sea, woods, music and arts. The theme of S/S 2021 is IN BLOOM. The series is inspired by a modern love story between a mermaid and a shark. Riccardo Tisci reproduces the root and essence of the brand, water. He uses unique water-proof fabrics, fuses fairy tale and marine creatures with lighthouse patterns, and brings water elements into the series.
Simple and Comfy -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Men's Leather Clothing on Catwalks
Affected by this COVID-19 pandemic, fashion weeks are presented in a new way. With "less but better" consumption idea and higher demand for durable products, this season men's leather and fur clothing uses low-key and classic silhouettes to balance between the past and the present. Emotional designs create all-year items. Renewed designs, emphasized silhouettes, comfort and practicality offer consumers a relaxing and casual style.
Game On -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Louis Vuitton Womenswear
Louis Vuitton 2021 Resort collection draws inspiration from Static Journey, takes "Game On" as the theme and explores inner emotions. Items of this collection are shot in the studio in Paris of Nicolas Ghesquiere, the womenswear art director. Nicolas Ghesquiere compares fashion creation to adventures in games. The collection consists of two parts, Quotidian and Playing Cards. Playing cards become main design elements of bags in the new season. Classic monogram mixes with four suits of playing cards, or bags are designed to be playing cards, hearts and dice. This collection takes us on a relaxing and unique resort journey.
Color Impact -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Women's Leather/Fur on Catwalks
With the change of lifestyle, sustainability and durability become the driving force of design. Transseasonal color proportion and natural tones are emphasized. Autumn tones, neutral camel tones and grey tones are increasingly important. Gem palette is enchanting and charming. Rocky Road and Chicory Coffee enhance the importance of deep brown colors. Preppy red is the key color of the right palette. A single color is used to create a simplified and individualized appearance.
Confidence Under The Softness -- The Catwalk Analysis of Bottega Veneta Womenswear
Known as the Italian Hermès, Bottega Veneta is confident, elegant and self-loyal. At the end of 2019, the BV team, led by new creative director Daniel Lee, sweeps the British fashion awards, making it one of the biggest shows in Milan Fashion Week. The A/W 20/21 collection of Bottega Veneta is launched in Milan. The show uses projector to reproduce the architecture of Renaissance Italian architect Andrea Palladio. The new season of Bottega Veneta is no more serious, but filled with fluorescent tones like kiwi green, creating the symbolic colors for the future. Daniel Lee uses 59 looks to show female confidence hidden in softness, present the pure self-expression, and create the intellectual urban style. The materials used in this show are reusable and recyclable. The backstage catering also uses organic foods and biodegradable tableware, and surplus food is donated to NGO, showing the sustainable and anti-waste fashion attitude.
Craft, Detail and Pattern -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Women's Leather/ Fur Clothing on Catwalks
Nowadays, fashion is like the melting pot, and not restricted to rules or outdated concepts. "Almighty" is the core feeling brought by A/W 2020 shows. Designers smartly use innovative crafts to create leather and fur clothing. Here we conclude core trends on these international catwalks, such as the printed mink fur, leather, ruffle and splicing.
Style, Item and Fabric -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Women's Leather/ Fur Clothing on Catwalks
Based on sustainability, leather will be the main material in A/W 20/21. The leather which is designed and recycled sustainably is more advocated. The metal-free, chromium-free and vegetable dyeing are better for the environment. The superior quality sense is the key to leather and fur fabric. Berber fleece and fleece display comfort and quality sense. Optimism persists in turbulent times. The vintage era (including middle-class style) is a source of inspiration. The feminine silhouette reveals a retro feel, and the waist becomes the focus of design. The minimalism drives the rise of designs which is not restricted to seasons. Therefore, the all-over printed style declines. In this season, prints of leather and fur industry are dominated by natural landscapes and folk patterns.
Elegance of History -- The Catwalk Analysis of LANVIN Womenswear
LANVIN A/W 2020 womenswear show is held in Manufacture des Gobelins built in the 15th century in Paris. The show with a theme of Conversation Piece draws inspirations from the 1960s. The space age, elaborate makeup and supermodels from the 1990s work together to make the show a retro party. The creative director Bruno Sialelli connects the contemporary era and the history through a time-travel dialogue with the brand's founder Jeanne Lanvin. In this season, he reinterprets the creative ideas of Jeanne Lanvin and interprets Lanvin in different voices. The new collection takes example by Jeanne Lanvin's signature lines, formal dress style and modern graphic embroidery in the 1920s and 1930s. The graceful lines of the shoulder and structural simple cutting remind of the elegance of haute couture in the middle of the 20th century.
Classicism and Art -- The Catwalk Analysis of Loewe Womenswear
Silhouette and fabric are key elements to create the A/W 2020 series for Jonathan Anderson, the creative director of the Spanish brand Loewe. "I analyze Spanish culture and how the world looks at it", Jonathan Anderson explains backstage after the show, "I work on how to bring classic images of Spain into people's wardrobes and I really enjoy the process of building silhouettes of clothes. Last season I worked on silhouette and fabric very successfully, so this season I decide to continue this design idea." This collection is filled with a large number of simplified prints with traditional Spanish ceramic patterns as the main part. The partial silhouette of the design is based on the retro court looks. Loewe also works with ceramic artists to create lots of ceramic decorations for the ready-to-wear of this show. These are all in line with Jonathan Anderson's understanding of Spain.
Infinite Starry Sky -- The Catwalk Analysis of Saicai Womenswear
In the whole A/W 2020 series of Sacai, the theme of "Universe" is not only the open-and-shut starry sky. They choose four from the thousands of images provided by NASA as the inspiration, so in this season we can see the brand turns space into beautiful fashion with the deconstruction design it has always followed. Inspired by the special issue of 2015 NASA, it works with fabric designer Alexander Girard to create a star map made up of mobile phones, letters and numbers. And the lower left corner which was to mark "Alien" presents "SACAI" now. Representative deconstruction and reorganization are used. The key design is combining light silk with high-tech fabric. Different items are combined to create a new silhouette which highlights the ethereal feel. But it doesn't blindly use lightweight fabrics. Instead, it makes use of the balance of fabric combination to design.