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Avant-garde -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Menswear Runway
The avant-garde fashion design style of the emerging pioneers is characterized by being avant-garde, innovative, unique, and personalized. They do not adhere to traditional fashion norms and restrictions, boldly breaking through traditional constraints, and pursue unique design concepts and expressions. They use unconventional cutting, materials, and color matching to change the original structure of clothing, presenting a cutting-edge and avant-garde appearance, creating unique clothing styles. Emerging pioneers designers often cleverly mix different styles and elements, creating diversity and contrast. They may integrate traditions and modernity, the East and the West, high-end and street styles, forming a new clothing language that presents unique textures and layers. They have a certain visual impact, showcasing the creativity and unique aesthetics of designers, becoming the creators and leaders in the fashion industry.
Elegant and Romantic -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Altuzarra
Altuzarra's 2024 Spring/Summer collection sees designer Joseph returning to an exploration of vulnerability and authenticity. Drawing inspiration from "Rosemary's Baby," with Miuccia Prada leading the entire process, the aesthetic of the 1960s and 70s from the film is reintroduced to the runway. In an effort to attract women, Altuzarra presents satin coats in shades of red, butter yellow, and ivory. These coats are A-line and slightly oversized, resembling enlarged versions of doll coats from the 60s. They manage to be neither distorted nor conservative, but simply stunning. The collection aims to persuade women to move away from outdated notions of avant-garde and provocative sexiness.
The Menswear Runway Analysis of Louis Vuitton
Love and light are key elements throughout the entire Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2024 Collection, with the sun as the focal point of the design. The sun is seen as an important source that nurtures all things, inspiring, healing, and uniting people from different cultural backgrounds and beliefs. The men's fashion show took place on the oldest bridge in Paris. Pharrell Williams continues the legacy of former design legend Virgil Abloh, infusing his own understanding of fashion trends into all products: the collision of American street style and French luxury craftsmanship, new graphic and text designs, the fusion of the classic Damier checkerboard pattern with an 8-bit pixel style to create a new camouflage, all embodying Louis Vuitton's mission to spread and pay tribute to the rich culture created by humanity.
Back to Minimalism -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Neil Barrett
Neil Barrett's 2024 Spring/Summer collection returns to the brand's minimalist DNA, drawing inspiration from industrial uniforms to meet the daily dressing needs in functional practicality. By mastering the details, it reshapes the contemporary dressing style. This season, the essence of minimalism is perfectly captured with meticulous cutting, enlarged clothing silhouettes, and the introduction of new materials to enhance the texture and add fresh elements. Colors such as lemon verbena and light blue are interspersed between silver-gray and olive-gray, creating a vivid color palette that further explores the realm of minimalism.
Western World -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Casablanca
With only a few, short years in as a burgeoning design label, Charaf Tajer’s Casablanca has shown no signs of slowing down. For Spring/Summer 2023, the brand upped the ante in Paris and utilized a horse pen stage setting to showcase its western-inspired collection. Working from three different themes – Vaqueros, Phantastica and Nature & Architecture – Tajer presented distinct clothing elements based on an overarching “Future Optimist” approach.
New Classicism -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Versace
Presented in the cobblestone courtyard of the historic Via Gesù home of the fashion house’s founder, Gianni Versace, in Milan, the Versace Spring/Summer 2023 collection was full of color and verve. Donatella Versace dug into the archives and pulled out prints her brother Gianni created for La Scala productions in the 90s, a logo from the early 2000s or the frozen-in-lava death masks of Pompeii, all of these revisited archival motifs splashed across t-shirts, silk shirts and pants, alongside stripes, diamond-shaped cut from leather made in eco-sustainable latex and powerfully colorful python prints. The latter, now replacing exotic skins, with fluorescent accents appeared on trench coats or pants. These new eco-friendly fabrics definitely marked the brand’s entry into the era of sustainability.
Light Summer -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Hermès
Lightness and pleasure, two notions closely associated with summer vacations, were the focus of the Hermès Men’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection that took place at the historic tapestry factory Manufacture des Gobelins. In the mood for vacation – “a magical destination that is both joyful and serene“, in the words of the French fashion house’s press release – Véronique Nichanian sent a plethora of marine-themed pieces down the runway.
Paris Men's Fashion Week: Recommended Brands(Part Two)
Spring/Summer 2023 Paris Fashion Week(June 21 to 26) included 84 exhibitors and 76 physical shows. Famous designers returned to the show and enlivened the Paris Fashion Week.
Men's Paris Fashion Week: Recommended Brands(Part One)
Spring/Summer 2023 Paris Fashion Week(June 21 to 26) included 84 exhibitors and 76 physical shows. Famous designers returned to the show and enlivened the Paris Fashion Week. Notably, the former designer of Dior Men and Saint Laurent - Hedi Slimane - took his new collection back with Celine to close the fashion show.
Anti Fashion -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Sacai
For Sacai Spring 2023 collection, the designer and founder Chitose Abe renewed her signature deconstruction and played with traditional silhouettes and materials with an informal attitude. The tailored fabrics from Loro Piana developed tight-fit dresses and all-in-ones. Womenswear was joined by sheer liners. The corsetry details paid homage to the brand heritage. As an important design language of Sacai, crinkles were designed to be daring and multi-dimensional. Graffiti master Eric Haze brought slogans such as ‘One Kind Word’ and ‘As One’ to deliver the spirit of unity and friendship.
A Basketful of Summer -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Emporio Armani
Emporio Armani took to the Milan Fashion Week stage to unveil its refined Spring/Summer 2023 collection, officially dubbed “A Basketful of Summer." "Summer is defined by lightness, in attitude and spirit lightness as immediacy and the sheer joy of living and dressing for the season: choosing clothes and accessories to throw on without too much thought,” the official collection notes read. “This collection by Emporio, the brand that Giorgio Armani has always seen as a container of possibilities, resembles a wicker basket, full of surprises that will bring the holiday spirit to the city and give any holiday the appropriate fresh and composed feel.”
Choice -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of PRADA
The Spring/Summer 2023 Menswear collection by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons is an expression of curated processes. The practice of design - of fashion - is one of decision-making, curation alongside creation. The tools of this collection are direct, recognizable, archetypal pieces – suits, overcoats, sweaters, shirts, denim, leather. Known garments are reinvented through context. There is always a complexity of thought behind apparently simple results, a process of refinement to uncover the fundamentals of dress.
Leather & Fur -- The Comprehensive Runway Analysis of Womenswear
According to the data analysis of A/W 22/23 ‘Big Four’ fashion weeks, mink reveals a decrease, while faux fur, shearling and cashmere are trending upward. For items, leather jackets and trenches dominate the market. We can see from the new collections that designers pay more attention to practicality and comfort. Multi-occasion silhouettes and extremely comfy designs have been the key factors.
A Path Worth Taking – The Menswear Runway Analysis of Zegna
F/W 22/23 men’s collection was the debut after Zegna dropping “Ermenegildo” from its original name. The artistic director Alessandro Sartori drew inspirations from roads and created a new collection: ‘A Path Worth Taking’. The Zegna road originates in the mountains, and crosses Oasi Zegna, the free-access natural territory in Piedmont, Northern Italy, also known as 232. Designer explored the contemporary fashion in a gentle yet firm way. The practical, comfortable, and alternative wardrobe redefined the traditional formal wear and underlined the seamless connection between indoor and outdoor lives.
Body of Work -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of PRADA
Working with architecture name OMA, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons reimagined the Deposito of the Fondazione Prada into a stage for the exhibition of Prada‘s Fall/Winter 2022 men’s collection. Dubbed “Body of Work,” the seasonal range investigates “theater and cinema as mirrors of reality.”
The Comprehensive Analysis of Menswear Runway(Style)
S/S 2022 runways of Fashion Week in Paris, Milan, New York, and London have been finished. Under the steady situation of epidemic, fashion weeks operated the runway in a mixed pattern: a part of brands returned to the offline fashion show, while others continued the digital show, displaying new products through live streaming and videos. And the end of fashion week will definitely lead topics among journalists, celebrities, and buyers. The eye-catching designs revealed the unique mindset of each fashion house, which inspired the trend of next season.
Eco-friendly Bohemia -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Chloé
Launched at the Quai de la Tournelle in Paris, S/S 2022 Chloé runway was cooperated with many charities to underline the social responsibility of the brand and the fusion of environmental protection and creativity. This show about love interpreted the free and unlimited Bohemian spirit. Chloé Craft was also officially introduced to launch more hand-made products in the future. This collection applied regenerated wool, hand-cut plant-dyed leather and soft linen. The usage ratio of lower impact material reached 58% this season. Various sewing, weaving and whipstitching techniques have been appeared. Petal-pattern crocheted dress, knotted slip dress made of strips of leftover fabric from seasons before, and whipstitched leather renew and inherit the classics.
Spring Romance -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Alberta Ferretti
Founded in 1974, the Milan-based Alberta Ferretti represents taste, elegancy, sensibility and charm. Many international stars and celebrities have worn their master pieces on grant events and red carpets. S/S 2022 collection used butterfly to present the elegant, confident and resilient postures and exude the lightweight yet high-quality romance. Butterfly photos were printed on wrapped dress and lace slip dress, and graceful miniskirt presented impressionism paintings. Knitted lace and organza crochet created a relaxing atmosphere. The colorway of this collection began from white, black and neutrals to dazzling colorfulness to present a butterfly which had broken out of the cocoon. The draped chiffon gown dress in Scuba Blue, Bright Aqua and Purple Opulence perfectly interpreted the brand attitude.
Purity & Minimalism -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of PETER DO
The Vietnamese designer Peter Do, who once learned from Phoebe Philo and Derek Lam, won the 2014 LVMH Graduate Prize and founded the namesake label in 2018. Set in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, in an open lot next to the East River, Do's S/S 2022 collection was one of the most anticipated shows of a revived New York Fashion Week. Peter Do gave a hand-written note to each and every one of his guests. In the letter, he likened designing his new collection—the first he's showing on the runway—to making Pho with his dad as a teen."A good Pho is reduced and edited, to an essence" he wrote. Though he's been a minimalist from the start, when analyzing his early work with more experienced eyes, he decided to pare it back and cut out its excesses. The four-piece suit, which he's made a signature, now features a lighter-weight pleated skirt than in seasons past because customers had told him that there was too much fabric around the waist. Looking at photographs of his grandmother's church outfits led to an exploration of the traditional Vietnamese ao dai, which he added lapels and closures to for a side-buttoning coat. An early snapshot of his mom and dad in which his mother holds a rose inspired the rich embroideries on the finale pieces.
Greetings from Antwerp--The Analysis of Dries Van Noten Menswear Runway
“Greetings from Antwerp”, Dries Van Noten’ s Spring/Summer 2022 menswear is full of emotional connection and unlimited respect for the city’s freedom and carefree fun. The team of Dries Van Noten went to 56 landmarks in Antwerp to take snapshots in three days, capturing static and dynamic images of the models wearing new items this season and the surroundings around them. Mr. Dries Van Noten said, “Through my work here I have had the pleasure of reliving Antwerp over again through the lives of the International members of my team who have come to live here with us. With this collection, we see Antwerp through the eyes and photographs of international residents of the city, members of my design team. It is always interesting to see what captivates their attention and how the city we know speaks to them.”
Natural Healing -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of AMBUSH
Escaping from city is an opportunity to heal, enjoy, and feel the nature, which is exactly the inspiration source of AMBUSH S/S 2022 collection. Although the collection was released before A/W 21/22, the designer Yoon Ahn added wasteland and vast free space into city and streets to create a new brand blueprint. Such freedom has brought variable ideas and also changed the way how AMBUSH treats its fashion collections. Inspired by highly functional fabrics, the new branch AMBUSH WKSP demonstrates the basic elements for people to move comfortably between city and countryside.
Canone Infinito -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of MSGM
Music is the must-have element for the creative director Massimo Giorgetti. The hypnotic and endless rhythm of this Canone Infinito(composed by the Italian DJ Lorenco Senni) enthralled him. Photographer Francesco Nazardo and the Milan-based image makers of No Text Azienda were involved in the production of the men's collection's video. Somehow replicating the circular melody on Senni's musical piece, the two-day shoot took place on a secluded beach in Maremma, a largely untouched, wild strip of land in Tuscany.
S/S 2022 Paris Menswear Fashion Week -- Brand Recommendation(Part Two)
S/S 2022 Paris Menswear Fashion Week was held from June 22th to 28th. Most brands still released their latest collections online. However, the pure digital fashion show has gradually transitioned into a mixed form in the post-pandemic era. The offline events absolutely promoted the attraction of this fashion week. There were 72 brands involved in the show, including some designer brands and niche brands.