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On the Road -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of DIOR MEN
Inspired by Jack Kerouac's novel On the Road, Kim Jones released DIOR MEN Fall 2022 collection in London on December, 9, exploring the imagination of literature and fashion. On the Road(1957) is the best novel that can reflect the Hippies and the Beat generation in 60s. The new collection drew inspiration from the avant-garde spirit in last century's America, and fused classic Dior's heritage with futuristic crafts for updating.
The Comprehensive Analysis of Menswear Runway(Style)
S/S 2022 runways of Fashion Week in Paris, Milan, New York, and London have been finished. Under the steady situation of epidemic, fashion weeks operated the runway in a mixed pattern: a part of brands returned to the offline fashion show, while others continued the digital show, displaying new products through live streaming and videos. And the end of fashion week will definitely lead topics among journalists, celebrities, and buyers. The eye-catching designs revealed the unique mindset of each fashion house, which inspired the trend of next season.
Eco-friendly Bohemia -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Chloé
Launched at the Quai de la Tournelle in Paris, S/S 2022 Chloé runway was cooperated with many charities to underline the social responsibility of the brand and the fusion of environmental protection and creativity. This show about love interpreted the free and unlimited Bohemian spirit. Chloé Craft was also officially introduced to launch more hand-made products in the future. This collection applied regenerated wool, hand-cut plant-dyed leather and soft linen. The usage ratio of lower impact material reached 58% this season. Various sewing, weaving and whipstitching techniques have been appeared. Petal-pattern crocheted dress, knotted slip dress made of strips of leftover fabric from seasons before, and whipstitched leather renew and inherit the classics.
Spring Romance -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Alberta Ferretti
Founded in 1974, the Milan-based Alberta Ferretti represents taste, elegancy, sensibility and charm. Many international stars and celebrities have worn their master pieces on grant events and red carpets. S/S 2022 collection used butterfly to present the elegant, confident and resilient postures and exude the lightweight yet high-quality romance. Butterfly photos were printed on wrapped dress and lace slip dress, and graceful miniskirt presented impressionism paintings. Knitted lace and organza crochet created a relaxing atmosphere. The colorway of this collection began from white, black and neutrals to dazzling colorfulness to present a butterfly which had broken out of the cocoon. The draped chiffon gown dress in Scuba Blue, Bright Aqua and Purple Opulence perfectly interpreted the brand attitude.
Purity & Minimalism -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of PETER DO
The Vietnamese designer Peter Do, who once learned from Phoebe Philo and Derek Lam, won the 2014 LVMH Graduate Prize and founded the namesake label in 2018. Set in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, in an open lot next to the East River, Do's S/S 2022 collection was one of the most anticipated shows of a revived New York Fashion Week. Peter Do gave a hand-written note to each and every one of his guests. In the letter, he likened designing his new collection—the first he's showing on the runway—to making Pho with his dad as a teen."A good Pho is reduced and edited, to an essence" he wrote. Though he's been a minimalist from the start, when analyzing his early work with more experienced eyes, he decided to pare it back and cut out its excesses. The four-piece suit, which he's made a signature, now features a lighter-weight pleated skirt than in seasons past because customers had told him that there was too much fabric around the waist. Looking at photographs of his grandmother's church outfits led to an exploration of the traditional Vietnamese ao dai, which he added lapels and closures to for a side-buttoning coat. An early snapshot of his mom and dad in which his mother holds a rose inspired the rich embroideries on the finale pieces.
Greetings from Antwerp--The Analysis of Dries Van Noten Menswear Runway
“Greetings from Antwerp”, Dries Van Noten’ s Spring/Summer 2022 menswear is full of emotional connection and unlimited respect for the city’s freedom and carefree fun. The team of Dries Van Noten went to 56 landmarks in Antwerp to take snapshots in three days, capturing static and dynamic images of the models wearing new items this season and the surroundings around them. Mr. Dries Van Noten said, “Through my work here I have had the pleasure of reliving Antwerp over again through the lives of the International members of my team who have come to live here with us. With this collection, we see Antwerp through the eyes and photographs of international residents of the city, members of my design team. It is always interesting to see what captivates their attention and how the city we know speaks to them.”
Natural Healing -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of AMBUSH
Escaping from city is an opportunity to heal, enjoy, and feel the nature, which is exactly the inspiration source of AMBUSH S/S 2022 collection. Although the collection was released before A/W 21/22, the designer Yoon Ahn added wasteland and vast free space into city and streets to create a new brand blueprint. Such freedom has brought variable ideas and also changed the way how AMBUSH treats its fashion collections. Inspired by highly functional fabrics, the new branch AMBUSH WKSP demonstrates the basic elements for people to move comfortably between city and countryside.
Canone Infinito -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of MSGM
Music is the must-have element for the creative director Massimo Giorgetti. The hypnotic and endless rhythm of this Canone Infinito(composed by the Italian DJ Lorenco Senni) enthralled him. Photographer Francesco Nazardo and the Milan-based image makers of No Text Azienda were involved in the production of the men's collection's video. Somehow replicating the circular melody on Senni's musical piece, the two-day shoot took place on a secluded beach in Maremma, a largely untouched, wild strip of land in Tuscany.
S/S 2022 Paris Menswear Fashion Week -- Brand Recommendation(Part Two)
S/S 2022 Paris Menswear Fashion Week was held from June 22th to 28th. Most brands still released their latest collections online. However, the pure digital fashion show has gradually transitioned into a mixed form in the post-pandemic era. The offline events absolutely promoted the attraction of this fashion week. There were 72 brands involved in the show, including some designer brands and niche brands.
S/S 2022 Paris Menswear Fashion Week -- Brand Recommendation(Part One)
S/S 2022 Paris Menswear Fashion Week was held from June 22th to 28th. Most brands still released their latest collections online. However, the pure digital fashion show has gradually transitioned into a mixed form in the post-pandemic era. The offline events absolutely promoted the attraction of this fashion week. There were 72 brands involved in the show, including Louis Vuitton, DIOR MEN, LOEWE, Yohji Yamamoto, Hermès and Lemaire. Meanwhile, the classic French fashion house Courrèges(founded in 1961) will also return with the first collection of its new creative director Nicolas Di Felice. Dior's cactus garden, Loewe's disco look and the beaches of Rick Owens and Lanvin compose the hedonistic atmosphere of 2022 spring.
Light-heartedness & Freedom -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of HERMES
Hermes Summer 2022 collection was presented by the male art director Véronique Nichanian and the drama director Cyril Teste. Abandoning the traditional formal wear, designer injects a sense of leisure into light-hearted and lively designs to outline minimalist lines, which accentuates silhouette and exquisite tailoring. Bursts of color and graphic stitching are used more in this season, and mixed multiple materials enliven the whole collection. Designer brings us a sunny daily scenery on the triangular stage. The collection exudes an air of relaxed light-heartedness and freedom. It is a response to the call of wide open spaces, a yearning for the oceans.
Warrior Spirit -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of S/S 2022 Burberry
Burberry S/S 2022 menswear collection has released. The creative director Riccardo Tisci combined freedom with unity to jump out of the constraint. To salute to the electronic music duo Shpongle, their song Strange Planet was selected to be the BGM of this runway. The vastness of the space shortens the distance between people. Sleeveless drop-shoulder jacket and deconstructed outerwear try to challenge the traditional principle. The flowing silhouette design is fused with abstract printed patterns and self-fabric straps. Classic brand elements are integrated into the theme to express royalty. Black halter-neck vest, outerwear and shorts are filled with the bravery of young warriors.
Futuristic Function -- The Menswear Catwalk Analysis of A-COLD-WALL*
The latest collection of A-COLD-WALL* was released under the background of 90's City of East London. Minimalist silhouette combines technology with function. Black & gray tone is collided with fluorescent green to present individuality. Eye-catching bright gears in fluorescent green, orange and yellow are utility for bike riders. Nylon jacket, printed sweatshirt and denim outfit show prettiness and practicality. Eco-friendly practice is also integrated into the clothes manufacturing, such as recyclable synthetic fiber fabric and more organic denim dyeing.
Call of The Wild -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of Burberry
Burberry A/W 21/22 womenswear collection was released in London, whose setting and design style are similar to the menswear collection in February. Rooted in ferocious and sensual glamour, it is a collection only for women. Inspired by the outdoor dressing of people in the last century and the comfort and adaptability of wild beauty, the creative director Riccardo Tisci sewn square fabrics to make dress and reformed the tailoring craft. Wearers are able to detach and restructure the clothes. The application of eco faux-fur also conveyed the nature-centric message. His post-pandemic mindset had discovered a kindred spirit in the naturalist movements of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, which informed the collection. Artists felt the call of the wild, and sought to de-program themselves from the rules of society. For Burberry, it's found in a mensweary character that its female clientele probably expects. For Tisci, it's the sensual and almost athletic glitz in which he excels.
Comfort First -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Womenswear Catwalks (Silhouette&Item)
According to the Big Four fashion weeks, POP Fashion analyses the data changes of key items on catwalks. The important message of A/W 21/22 fashion weeks is comfort-oriented styles, which also satisfies the desire for dressing and celebration. The rise of trousers and knitwear leads to the changes of product structure. The proportions of knit top, trousers, jacket and sweater all increase. Conforming to the comfort first message, leisure items like bottom pants, sport shorts and T-shirt also rise. Flared trousers is more popular year-on-year. Knit and trousers take the proportion of dress items. Tight-fit and party styles are also under a rising trend in A/W 21/22. Knits break through the limited design and develop knitted vest and comfortable suits.
Low-key Luxurious Practicalism -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of Fendi
The design inspiration this season is related to the Fendi family, these famous five Fendi sisters. Starting from their wardrobes, Kim Jones makes the character and taste of each one into a distinct women and dressing style, creating brand new Fendi Women. Low-key luxury is the main tonality of the whole collection. Instead of direct color impact, Kim Jones uses the low-key luxury to hold this fashion feast. Rose gold color, eye-catching monochrome wool and soft mink skin fully present the dressing requirements of women. Kim Jones foretold on Instagram that the new collection was inspired from the timeless design of Karl Lagerfeld, which endowed the classic elements with modern temperament. The F-shaped glass houses on the runway replace the Roman columns and classical sculptures. It is not difficult to see Kim Jones' cultural heritage of Fendi, the Italian brand with a long history, and his practice of the concept of circular environmental protection.
Gorgeous Taste -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of Christian Dior
Dior launched its latest 2021 early-autumn womenswear series, originated from the leopard striped trench coat once designed by the brand founder Christian Dior. And its bright color tones, transparency and flickers pay tribute to Elio Fiorucci, the representative of Pop aesthetics. Maira Grazia Chiuri also watched the documentary of Blackpink during the quarantine. The fashion of K-pop girl groups is including in the inspiration of this season's mood board as well.
Highlight Placement -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Catwalk Details
This report is based on the analysis of the data of the four major fashion weeks in S/S 2021. In this report, catwalk data divided by garment area and palcement details are theme of the analysis. Designers breaks through the iimitation of multi brand theme inspiration design. From the aspect of natural and eco-friendly, home office, rebirth and sustainable, French style and so on to explore essence of the design details. And provides inspiration for the process of superb details. Design details used in different part brings a different design psychology for garments and conveys a fashionable attitude.
Rebirth & Close to Nature -- The Comprehensive Analysis of New York Fashion Week
Due to COVID-19, this year New York Fashion Week has been shortened from the usual eight days to four, and fewer than 10 designers hold physical shows for their latest collections. Despite the severe condition in New York, many brands still hold fashion shows offline, which reveals the determination of the whole fashion industry to survive and return to happiness. Many designers draw inspiration from the relationship between man and nature, and some put the show in the woods. Beautiful flowers and nature-inspired patterns characterize this season. In the meantime, people are stuck at home, and they have a growing demand for home decorations. Therefore, diverse and eco-friendly concept is also warmly welcomed in S/S 2021. This season features exaggerated expressions, such as the big bowknot, spreading ruffles and dramatic hem designs, as well as various joyful colors which represent hope and rebirth.
Minimalist and Young -- The Catwalk Analysis of Jil Sander Womenswear
Jil Sander is the representative brand of minimalism, founded by a German designer and later merged by Prada. In 2017, Luke and Lucie Meier took over Jil Sander as creative directors. Luke Meier, who worked eight years as the chief designer of Supreme, has a background in street fashion that makes up for years of Jil Sander's neglect of the youth market. Lucie Meier has worked at haute couture brands like Dior, Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga, helping to keep the simple and elegant style of Jil Sander. Its S/S 2021 womenswear continues the fine and delicate DNA, employs cotton, recycled polyester and mulberry silk, and accentuates female graceful form via embroideries, creating simple yet ethereal looks.
The Art of Being Self -- The Catwalk Analysis of MSGM Womenswear
This season, MSGM shoots the video from twelve angles, full of questions and answers about the origins of identity and the art of being selves. This time models themselves press the shutter button in the studio to capture images. Lots of straw prints, tie-dyed edges and decorative beads play a key role this season.
Gender-Neutral Journey -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Louis Vuitton Womenswear
Louis Vuitton catwalk just ends in La Samaritaine, which also marks the end of Paris Fashion Week this year. It brings a future fashion proposition that urgently needs to be thought and solved - what potential does fashion have after removing all the boundaries of gender and function? Nicolas Ghesquière, a self-proclaimed "time conflict" enthusiast, has never stopped combining hot topics of social development with clothing in different periods. This season Louis Vuitton S/S 2021 collection spans five eras, and discusses gender non-dualization. Nicolas blurs gender boundary, displays creativity and creates a space for imagination, thus embracing the sensitive and unknown world and blending contradictory elements like the past and the future, softness and toughness, elegance and street fashion. The show makes use of a green curtain to bring audience into a vivid scene, and they can rotate 360 degrees in their own seats. Moreover, online audience see footage from Der Himmel über Berlin by Wim Wenders film in 1987, interacting with the online fashion show.
French Flavor -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Paris Fashion Week
Due to this pandemic, online New York Fashion and London Fashion Week almost gain no attention. But more brands hold physical fashion shows in Milan Fashion Week. Paris Fashion Week from September 28th to October 6th seems even more unique. 84 brands join it; 18 brands including Dior, Louis Vuitton and Chanel hold physical shows; there are also 29 static shows. This time Paris Fashion Week focuses on eulogizing nature, French flavor and Chinese elements, to inspire people to get closer to nature, inherit French romanticism and rebuild confidence in future life.
Practical Luxury -- The Catwalk Analysis of DIOR MEN Menswear
DIOR MEN Resort 2021 by Kim Jones features practicality, business leisure and young street fashion. The collection is displayed on lookbook, more casual than catwalk collection. It is luxurious yet wearable. This series covers shorts and matching camp shirts in S/S 2021 collection, as well as its symbolic monogram. It also pairs stripes with light tones for a soothing yet vigorous feeling. Intense cold tones like crayon, calm black and leather, argyles and stripes mix with each other and depict vibrant pictures. In addition to smooth lines, crisp silhouette and elaborate crafts, functional elements such as key pendant and climbing hook also display practicality.