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Color/Craft/Pattern -- The Comprehensive Runway Analysis of Women's Leather & Fur(Part II)
Based on the S/S 2023 four major fashion week shows, POP Fashion digs into the analysis of colors and crafts of women’s leather and fur. Colorless hues share the largest proportion; lighter colors are trending upward; the thick pine green reflects natural vitality on leathers; splicing, braiding and cutting are the major crafts; zippers and waist details are also noteworthy.
Style/Item/Material -- The Comprehensive Runway Analysis of Women's Leather & Fur(Part One)
Based on the four major fashion week shows in Spring/Summer 2023, POP Fashion digs into the trend analysis of styles, materials and item proportions. Futuristic Cool is the most uptrending style; jacket is the staple item; influenced by the seasons, leather and vegan skin are increasing; besides, surface textures and tanning are also noteworthy.
The Mud Show -- The Runway Analysis of Balenciaga
For S/S 2023, Balenciaga launched 'The Mud Show' with a lost wallet as invitation. Opening with Kanye wearing a full security rig, models (including Bella Hadid) followed with full force and a desire to power on, splashing through the thick mud and water with determination. Elsewhere, babies were strapped to chests in Balenciaga harnesses, tops were glittery and others were made in latex displaying a 404 Error code. Demna’s viral bag of Lays chips was turned into a pochette, while teddy bears became handheld accessories and another bag was turned into a wearable in the form of a glove.
Modern Desert -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Hermès
“We’ve been so confined that I really wanted to celebrate going back outside, feeling the wind, the heat, the sweat on your skin,” said Hermès’s Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, who erected a sand dune in the Tennis Club de Paris to show her latest performance-wear focused collection.
Build the Boundaries -- The Comprehensive Detail Analysis of Menswear Runway
The comprehensive analysis of Spring/Summer 2023 men’s runway show will introduce you the detail designs on those key positions: collars, shoulders, plackets, hemlines, waists and leg openings. Besides, laced-up design, buckles, patchwork and pockets are also the noteworthy details.
Textured Touch -- The Comprehensive Craft Analysis of Menswear Runway
POP Fashion digs into the Spring/Summer 2023 men’s runway shows and figures out the most important crafts. Embossed effect, folk braiding, fine carving, 3D flowers, bead embroidery, gorgeous matrix, textured applique and broken patterns are the key points. Fringed edges and faded surface are the recommended fabric techniques. Besides, irregular pleating, overlapping, metallic eyelets, curved cuts and romantic elements are also eye-catching.
Western World -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Casablanca
With only a few, short years in as a burgeoning design label, Charaf Tajer’s Casablanca has shown no signs of slowing down. For Spring/Summer 2023, the brand upped the ante in Paris and utilized a horse pen stage setting to showcase its western-inspired collection. Working from three different themes – Vaqueros, Phantastica and Nature & Architecture – Tajer presented distinct clothing elements based on an overarching “Future Optimist” approach.
Trompe L'oeil -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Y/Project
It was in the lush garden of a bourgeois high school that Glenn Martens unveiled Y/Project‘s collection, which features the brand’s signature elements, from asymmetrical tops cleverly structured by pressure plays to tank tops (and draped dresses) suspended from invisible nylon threads, to extremely large creations with sculptural and ironic shapes, between drapes, undulations and strange blisters. There are also trompe-l’oeil prints, initiated during Glenn Martens’ successful collaboration with Jean-Paul Gaultier.
Musical Festival -- The Menwear Runway Analysis of Bluemarble
LVMH Prize semi-finalist and upcoming Pierre Bergé prize nominee, Anthony Alvarez, has been making strong headway within the international menswear space. For Spring/Summer 2023 his Bluemarble label presented sophisticated leisure that put soft fabrications and rich colorways at the forefront. Alvarez’s collection included matching sets of half-zip short-sleeved sweaters and shorts, fitted jackets, exterior pocket trousers and relaxed denim.
Back to Paris -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Amiri
To evoke a world of endless possibilities and childlike wonder, Mike Amiri chose the beautiful Jardin des Plantes in Paris to unveil his Spring/Summer 2023 collection that once again demonstrates his sense of showmanship and affection for handcrafting. Always a cross between West Coast casual and European chic – his collection is now made between the U.S. and Italy – his suits look so light, helped by the weight and grace of jersey, while the blazers are deconstructed and cut casually – their seams removed to free up traditional shapes and create flouncy volumes inspired as much by sportswear as by stagewear.
Urban Oasis -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Neil Barrett
The utilitarian sophistication of ’90s minimalism has always resonated for Barrett, who has a background in sharp military tailoring. For Spring 2023 he riffed on the consistency of his wardrobe’s strongholds, referencing an urban uniform look and clean-cut, smart sportswear. Inspired by military attire made for extreme weather conditions, garments were structured and engineered to let the body breathe.
Surfing Culture -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Dsquared2
Taking to Milan, the Caten duo Dean and Dan have showcased DSQUARED2’s vibrant Spring/Summer 2023 Menswear collection. Paying homage to the Bob Marley Foundation, the collection features everything from 70s-inspired outerwear to the symbolic use of colours in the Jamaican flag (yellow, black and green). In an additional collaboration with Honda motorcycles, Dsquared2 combine their Marley inspiration with two starkly contrasting personas; the relaxed surfer and the rambunctious biker. And while a junction between the musical legend and the motorcycle company may seem a little odd at first, there’s actually a deep-rooted vein that joins the two together in perfect harmony – the designers aimed to symbolise both the vibe and rebellion of Marley’s time, surf culture, and 1970s Jamaica.
Futurism -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Givenchy
On the second day of Paris Fashion Week, Matthew M Williams staged his first-ever standalone menswear show for Givenchy. The Spring/Summer 2023 collection was inspired by the people closest to Williams, including the artists, designers and musicians who inspire him, acting as a both the modern day menswear world and Givenchy’s artisanal heritage.
Light Summer -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Hermès
Lightness and pleasure, two notions closely associated with summer vacations, were the focus of the Hermès Men’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection that took place at the historic tapestry factory Manufacture des Gobelins. In the mood for vacation – “a magical destination that is both joyful and serene“, in the words of the French fashion house’s press release – Véronique Nichanian sent a plethora of marine-themed pieces down the runway.
Nautical College -- The Runway Analysis of KENZO
For the KENZO Spring/Summer 2023 collection, artistic director Nigo dips into the archives with silhouettes and motifs that allude to the designer’s discovery of the brand and the fashion landscape he was exposed to as a teen. Most of all, the collection showcases an array of de- and re-constructed pieces of the iconography of Kenzo Takada, and finds inspiration from the DC Brand Boom of 1980s Japan where colorful and cartoon-ish animal motifs meshed with the fashion culture of Paris—the spirit of SS23.
Born in Oasi Zegna -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of ZEGNA
The ZEGNA Summer 2023 Fashion Show was presented live from Oasi Zegna, the home of the brand values and 100 sq.km nature park. Always looking ahead while keeping track of roots, it is here that Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori introduces new shapes and textures as he builds an evolving language in style. Rooted in sartorial ethic, his elevated wardrobe is attuned to the here and now. “My work stems from one single question: what’s next for tailoring and for the needs and the fast-paced lives of today?"
Paris Men's Fashion Week: Recommended Brands(Part Two)
Spring/Summer 2023 Paris Fashion Week(June 21 to 26) included 84 exhibitors and 76 physical shows. Famous designers returned to the show and enlivened the Paris Fashion Week.
Milan Men's Fashion Week: Recommended Brands(Part Two)
S/S 2023 Milan Fashion Week(June 17th to 21th) included 28 offline runway shows, 24 still-life exhibitions, 5 digital releases and 21 brand culture events.
Men's Paris Fashion Week: Recommended Brands(Part One)
Spring/Summer 2023 Paris Fashion Week(June 21 to 26) included 84 exhibitors and 76 physical shows. Famous designers returned to the show and enlivened the Paris Fashion Week. Notably, the former designer of Dior Men and Saint Laurent - Hedi Slimane - took his new collection back with Celine to close the fashion show.
Strange Math -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton Men’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection, named Strange Math, is set on pure imagination, which is at the heart of the Maison’s ethos. It explores the relationship between imagination and reality and brings together creative minds into the ecosystem that welcomed Virgil Abloh back in 2018, and that strives for creatorship, craftsmanship and showmanship.
Utopia in Dream -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Dior Men
Two houses, joined by a garden in full bloom. Kim Jones’s models were wending their way through the greenery from Granville in Normandy on the coast of France to Charleston in Sussex in the rural south of England at the Dior Men show for summer. Pragmatism, natural elements and garden styles are mixed with the artworks of Duncan Grant to create an impressive personal collection that can reflect his spiritual world.
A Basketful of Summer -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Emporio Armani
Emporio Armani took to the Milan Fashion Week stage to unveil its refined Spring/Summer 2023 collection, officially dubbed “A Basketful of Summer." "Summer is defined by lightness, in attitude and spirit lightness as immediacy and the sheer joy of living and dressing for the season: choosing clothes and accessories to throw on without too much thought,” the official collection notes read. “This collection by Emporio, the brand that Giorgio Armani has always seen as a container of possibilities, resembles a wicker basket, full of surprises that will bring the holiday spirit to the city and give any holiday the appropriate fresh and composed feel.”
Choice -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of PRADA
The Spring/Summer 2023 Menswear collection by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons is an expression of curated processes. The practice of design - of fashion - is one of decision-making, curation alongside creation. The tools of this collection are direct, recognizable, archetypal pieces – suits, overcoats, sweaters, shirts, denim, leather. Known garments are reinvented through context. There is always a complexity of thought behind apparently simple results, a process of refinement to uncover the fundamentals of dress.
Free Yuppies -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Fendi
Fendi Spring/Summer 2023 is a delightful array of textures, prints and motifs, flicking splashes of watercolor alongside fringed, distressed denim and animal prints for a collection that well and truly kicked off day two of Milan Fashion Week with a bang. Under Silvia Venturini Fendi‘s creative direction, it’s clear to see she’s been eavesdropping on Kim Jones‘ Fendi womenswear — he too referenced nature and animals for Fendi’s Spring 2022 collection — and now it’s menswear’s turn to explore the realm of contrasts and juxtapositions.