As a comment on the pace and rush of fashion, Do titled his collection Time. “I was thinking about how we always seem to be running out of time in this industry. As a designer and brand, we are always living in the future and never in the present. This collection marks a period where, for the first time in a while, I feel present; where I’ve slowed down to savour those important moments in life.” His reflections manifested in what he called the “fundamentals” of his brand: The deconstruction of garments, a focus on the convertible wardrobe and transparency. Do played with androgynous codes in the exaggerated fits and volumes of suits, magnified classic shirts and exploded them into buoyant coats.

The Vietnamese designer Peter Do, who once learned from Phoebe Philo and Derek Lam, won the 2014 LVMH Graduate Prize and founded the namesake label in 2018. Set in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, in an open lot next to the East River, Do's S/S 2022 collection was one of the most anticipated shows of a revived New York Fashion Week. Peter Do gave a hand-written note to each and every one of his guests. In the letter, he likened designing his new collection—the first he's showing on the runway—to making Pho with his dad as a teen."A good Pho is reduced and edited, to an essence" he wrote. Though he's been a minimalist from the start, when analyzing his early work with more experienced eyes, he decided to pare it back and cut out its excesses. The four-piece suit, which he's made a signature, now features a lighter-weight pleated skirt than in seasons past because customers had told him that there was too much fabric around the waist. Looking at photographs of his grandmother's church outfits led to an exploration of the traditional Vietnamese ao dai, which he added lapels and closures to for a side-buttoning coat. An early snapshot of his mom and dad in which his mother holds a rose inspired the rich embroideries on the finale pieces.