Artistic director Kim Jones paints a picture of elegance with Fendi’s latest collection. Looking to Delfina Delettrez Fendi for inspiration, her unparalleled self-expression, and subversive style form the foundation of this collection. Playing with the notion of a binary, this AW23 collection contains multitudes. From the elevation of deconstruction, and the interpolation gendered archetypes, to uncanny ‘ladylike’ sophistication — this collection subverts what is means to self-express.

The genderless BIOMIMICRY collection saw men and women embrace extreme cut-outs, nipple-revealing sheer and chainmail handbags. Even the most miniature of mini skirts weren’t just reserved for the toned legs of Dion Lee ladies. Some designs resembled skeletons with ribcage-like fabrications and architectural silhouettes, while others looked ready to battle bad guys … and big waves, such as the black neoprene wetsuit. Perhaps, a homage to the Sydney-native’s former sun and surf lifestyle.

Ulla Johnson Spring 2023 collection drew inspirations from Bryan Lavelle’s bright and saturated abstract paintings. Bryan explores the features of acrylics and oils. The layering and gradually adding the work’s surface forms a patterned and textured aesthetic.

Jacquemus headed to the salt marshes of Aigues-Mortes in the south of France for its Fall 2022 “Le Papier” runway show. Matching the salt hills, the collection was largely dipped in shades of white and beige with subtle inserts of rust, olive green and brown. Menswear pieces took form in relaxed suiting, knitwear, technical yet minimal coats and cargo pants. Relaxed constructions have always been a hallmark of Jacquemus menswear, but this collection loosened the silhouettes a bit more. Tailoring served as a collection highlight via reconstructed blazers, asymmetrical hems and layered styling via draped skirts and puffer vests.

Held in the Grand Palais Éphémère, Chanel A/W 22/23 couture was an homage to the quintessential house signature - tweed. It is said that Gabrielle Chanel would walk by the River Tweed in Scotland, where she would gather different flora and use their colors as a reference for her artisans to create fabric. The haute couture show exuded an elegant, bright, and positive mood; multi-pocket safari jacket and soft woolen outerwear interpreted masculine silhouettes; couture qualities were brought by patterns, materials, and details; leathers and jewels sent out a gorgeous retro atmosphere.

Continuing the lighthearted air, Hermès released the A/W 2022 womenswear collection. The artistic director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski drew equestrian elements from the brand DNA and injected slim-fit tailoring into the clothing design. The use of knitted fabrics allowed the restraint air to be sexy and cool. The whole collection, especially the leather treatment, still reflected the fine artisanship of Hermès. These innovative pieces on the runway expressed the personality of wearer and the unique French romance.

Fendi released its latest A/W 2022 womenswear collection on February 23, 2022. Kim Jones drew inspirations from seeing Delfina Delettrez in the Rome office wearing a blouse of Silvia Venturini’s from a 1986 Fendi collection by Karl Lagerfeld. He combined those references with a callback to another Lagerfeld-designed Fendi collection for spring 2000, one with a delicacy in direct opposition to the blousy proportions of the ’86 show. The graceful, rebellious, and light designs broke the classic conventions. Slip dresses, ruffled gauze tops and dresses exuded a feminine temperament and offered a lithe experience in S/S.

Fashion house Neil Barrett presented the Fall Winter 2022/23 Menswear Collection with a digital show on Monday, January 17th, as part of the ongoing Milan Fashion Week. For this season, brand explores the history of uniforms. The collection was inspired by the designer's family heritage as military tailors, but also by the different kinds of uniforms such as workwear, sportswear, the tailored suit, a uniform of evening elegance. It explores the meaning of uniforms, that express both identity and – conversely – individuality, and also bring practicality.

Launched at the Quai de la Tournelle in Paris, S/S 2022 Chloé runway was cooperated with many charities to underline the social responsibility of the brand and the fusion of environmental protection and creativity. This show about love interpreted the free and unlimited Bohemian spirit. Chloé Craft was also officially introduced to launch more hand-made products in the future. This collection applied regenerated wool, hand-cut plant-dyed leather and soft linen. The usage ratio of lower impact material reached 58% this season. Various sewing, weaving and whipstitching techniques have been appeared. Petal-pattern crocheted dress, knotted slip dress made of strips of leftover fabric from seasons before, and whipstitched leather renew and inherit the classics.

Christian Dior S/S 2022 ready-to-wear fashion show was held in the Paris Tuileries Garden on September 28. Maria Grazia Chiuri approached Anna Pararatti to conceive the show's scenography in an absurdist spirit reflecting the universe of her various works. Pop and game have been the core of this 60's runway. The collection is structured around a network of associations as Maria Grazia Chiuri explores Marc Bohan's long tenure as Creative Director of Dior. More precisely, she highlights the Slim Look collection, presented in 1961. A-line doll dress, mini Dior suit, 60s optical white dress and tennis dress; color-blocking outerwear and dress; orange and green boxing suit; golden fringed mini dress all awaken and overpass the elegant classics of Dior.

The Spring/Summer 2022 Prada show is staged, simultaneously, in the Deposito of the Fondazione Prada, Milan and in Bund 1, Shanghai. Seduction, Stripped Down is the name Prada and Simons gave to the collection. Complex historical elements were rebuilt to be modernized and simple to interpret the embrace and subversion of sexiness. Bra cups and corset bones were fused with knitwear, outerwear and dress by modernized designs to feel solemn, sexy and harmonious; evening gown was simplified to reach a balance between seduction and minimalism; raw or distressed leather jackets and tiny duchesse satin miniskirts presented the interplay of elegancy and punk. Miuccia and Raf created a fantastic and realistic renewing process by deconstructing and regrouping daywear with gorgeous clothing.

Founded in 1974, the Milan-based Alberta Ferretti represents taste, elegancy, sensibility and charm. Many international stars and celebrities have worn their master pieces on grant events and red carpets. S/S 2022 collection used butterfly to present the elegant, confident and resilient postures and exude the lightweight yet high-quality romance. Butterfly photos were printed on wrapped dress and lace slip dress, and graceful miniskirt presented impressionism paintings. Knitted lace and organza crochet created a relaxing atmosphere. The colorway of this collection began from white, black and neutrals to dazzling colorfulness to present a butterfly which had broken out of the cocoon. The draped chiffon gown dress in Scuba Blue, Bright Aqua and Purple Opulence perfectly interpreted the brand attitude.

VICTORIA BECKHAM is a couture brand founded by the famous British singer and apparel designer Victoria Beckham in 2008. Neat and tight silhouette, Roland Mouret's hourglass dress, long zipper and body-fitted tailoring are the signature designs. The S/S 2022 ready-to-wear collection took its tight-fit feminine tailoring and classic designs to the extreme. Especially, the plaid pattern and shirt-style coat perfectly combine women's neatness with minimalist silhouettes to reveal the core design concept of VICTORIA BECKHAM.

Altuzarra is a luxury women's ready-to-wear and accessories collection, launched by Joseph Altuzarra in 2008. The brand is known for its silhouette with delicate curves, which accentuates designers' extraordinary understanding of female body. Joseph Altuzarra once won the CFDA/Vogue fashion foundation in 2011, and his signature exquisite tailoring was deeply loved by fashionable females on a global scale. Knotting, weaving and shibori dyeing were shown in the S/S 2022 ready-to-wear collection to present an elegant and delicate holiday.

The namesake fashion label ULLA JOHNSON was founded by 2000, which features complex details and exquisite tailoring. Ulla Johnson never relaxes the attention to details and the passion of natural fabrics, pretty decorations and styles. The S/S 2022 collection presented all the well-known elements of ULLA JOHNSON, including ruffle, printing, tie-dyeing and shell embroidery.

Burberry A/W 21/22 womenswear collection was released in London, whose setting and design style are similar to the menswear collection in February. Rooted in ferocious and sensual glamour, it is a collection only for women. Inspired by the outdoor dressing of people in the last century and the comfort and adaptability of wild beauty, the creative director Riccardo Tisci sewn square fabrics to make dress and reformed the tailoring craft. Wearers are able to detach and restructure the clothes. The application of eco faux-fur also conveyed the nature-centric message. His post-pandemic mindset had discovered a kindred spirit in the naturalist movements of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, which informed the collection. Artists felt the call of the wild, and sought to de-program themselves from the rules of society. For Burberry, it's found in a mensweary character that its female clientele probably expects. For Tisci, it's the sensual and almost athletic glitz in which he excels.

Giorgio Armani once again improves the classic styling in this A/W collection. Nocturnal is the theme of womenswear which keeps the accurate fluent lines and integrates more elegant and leisurely elements. It allows wearers not to disguise and to be themselves at ease. Influenced by the epidemic, Mr. Armani canceled the traditional runway and invited no audience. The A/W 21/22 collection was still released online through network streaming. The huge white Armani logo echoes the monochrome black square stage. And the overall dark runway environment brings the unique modern mystery. The green gorilla Uri is at the center of the whole runway, and it is the copy vision of the artwork of Marcantonio Malerba. Uri means "My flame and my light", which not only shows Mr. Armani's love for animals and nature and his intense environmental awareness, but also creates a unique oasis for the bright Milan. At the end of the show, Mr. Armani took a group photo with the green gorilla Uri, which called on people to love fashion and protect nature at the same time.

A/W 2021 Chloé collection was launched on time in Paris Fashion Week at 8:30 p.m. on March 3(Beijing Time). It's the first collection of the new creative director Gabriela Hearst. Several trailers were released before the runway officially, the warm colors and mottled light and shade indicated the languid and thermal tonality this season. This runway show was launched through a creative short film, and models came out of the cafes on the streets of Paris with a strong sense of rhythm. The background music of the short film is produced by Juan Campodonico, the four-time-winner of the Latin Grammy Awards. On the basis of electronic sound, it integrates Latin American folk music with strong sense of rhythm and dynamic drumbeats. Models crossed the zebra crossing and came to the main catwalk, a wide slate road. Inspired by the sustainable concept, creative director Gabriela Hearst uses 30 new looks to interpret the Chloé girls with environmental duty. It is a show of environmental protection. Not only the natural runway, over 50% of silk comes from organic agriculture and over 80% of knit cashmere yarn is recyclable. Minimalist monochrome jewelry reduces the pollution of electroplating process. And the liner of handbags uses natural linen cloths.

Founded by Archille Maramotti in 1951, the Italian fashion brand Max Mara is famous for its high-quality overcoat. The founder said that all he paid attention to was the wives of Italy's male professionals. And to celebrate the 70th anniversary of the brand, there were 42 looks released in this runway under the theme "1951". Combining with its historical background, Max Mara rebuilds the aesthetic essence in the last century.

The design inspiration this season is related to the Fendi family, these famous five Fendi sisters. Starting from their wardrobes, Kim Jones makes the character and taste of each one into a distinct women and dressing style, creating brand new Fendi Women. Low-key luxury is the main tonality of the whole collection. Instead of direct color impact, Kim Jones uses the low-key luxury to hold this fashion feast. Rose gold color, eye-catching monochrome wool and soft mink skin fully present the dressing requirements of women. Kim Jones foretold on Instagram that the new collection was inspired from the timeless design of Karl Lagerfeld, which endowed the classic elements with modern temperament. The F-shaped glass houses on the runway replace the Roman columns and classical sculptures. It is not difficult to see Kim Jones' cultural heritage of Fendi, the Italian brand with a long history, and his practice of the concept of circular environmental protection.

This report is based on the analysis of the data of the four major fashion weeks in S/S 2021. In this report, catwalk data divided by garment area and palcement details are theme of the analysis. Designers breaks through the iimitation of multi brand theme inspiration design. From the aspect of natural and eco-friendly, home office, rebirth and sustainable, French style and so on to explore essence of the design details. And provides inspiration for the process of superb details. Design details used in different part brings a different design psychology for garments and conveys a fashionable attitude.