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The Possibility Of An Island -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of MSGM
"MSGM boys are good natured boys, with not a soupçon of dark side. Or at least, they keep it well hidden under the cheerful, über-positive designs concocted by Massimo Giorgetti, an equally sunny-side-up kind of guy. " Designer said that reading Michel Houellebecq’s dystopian and rather cynical novel The Possibility Of An Island made him think about the tension between the natural and the virtual, humanity and technology. To amplify his message, the location he choose for the show was a brand new glass and cement building located in an up-and-coming industrial area of Milan.
Utopia in Dream -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Dior Men
Two houses, joined by a garden in full bloom. Kim Jones’s models were wending their way through the greenery from Granville in Normandy on the coast of France to Charleston in Sussex in the rural south of England at the Dior Men show for summer. Pragmatism, natural elements and garden styles are mixed with the artworks of Duncan Grant to create an impressive personal collection that can reflect his spiritual world.
A Basketful of Summer -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Emporio Armani
Emporio Armani took to the Milan Fashion Week stage to unveil its refined Spring/Summer 2023 collection, officially dubbed “A Basketful of Summer." "Summer is defined by lightness, in attitude and spirit lightness as immediacy and the sheer joy of living and dressing for the season: choosing clothes and accessories to throw on without too much thought,” the official collection notes read. “This collection by Emporio, the brand that Giorgio Armani has always seen as a container of possibilities, resembles a wicker basket, full of surprises that will bring the holiday spirit to the city and give any holiday the appropriate fresh and composed feel.”
Rewilding & Rechilding -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Stella McCartney
Spring 2023 is rooted in themes of rewilding and rechilding, made for an untamed Stella woman living freely and in harmony with nature. Stella was inspired by naturalist Miriam Rothschild and Knepp Farm in Horsham – who gave their land back to Mother Earth, allowing it to rebalance itself and restore wildlife without disturbance. Made from 85% responsible materials, it is the brand’s most sustainable collection to date.
Minimalist Daywear -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of N°21
N°21 is a womenswear brand founded by Alessandro Dell’Acqua in 2009. The brand launches a new design concept that more daywear and knitwear should be designed to be more realistic. For the A/W 22/23 ready-to-wear collection, military colors dominated overcoats, suits, dresses and skirts, while sequins, chains, coconut patterns and drawstrings ensured the highlights.
Celebrate the British Culture -- The Runway Analysis of Burberry
Based on duality and multiple perspectives, Riccardo Tisci brought a fall collection to celebrate the British culture and reconstruct identities. The conflicts between city and countryside, gorgeousness and punk broke the common definitions and reinterpreted the Britishness. Inspired by subculture uniforms, classic men’s toggle overcoat was updated by bold leather straps and trims; womenswear collection paired Harrington Jackets with boots and skirts for a avant-garde attitude.
Colorful Daywear -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Nina Ricci
A/W 22/23 was the first collection of Nana Baehr for the brand. Tailored daywear, colorful sweater, and printed dress were the staples. The cloak design was inspired by the fashion in 1960s. Besides, two-in-one hall bucket hats and transparent handbags also enlivened this colorful collection.
The Rhythm of Color -- The Runway Analysis of Emporio Armani
Emporio Armani released the fall 2022 collection at Milano Fashion Week. Themed ‘The Rhythm of Color’, Grayish menswear and bright womenswear formed contrasts. Sheer, silk, and velvet developed cocktail dresses in bright colors. Lustrous, matted backless minidress also displayed charm. On the other stage, menswear played a symphony about grays and showed smart modernized overcoats and jackets.
Eternal Continuity -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Miu Miu
Muccia Prada took an unconventional route with an energetic soundtrack and youthful clay animation that marked the end of Paris Fashion Week with Miu Miu's show Fall/Winter 2022. In collaboration with artist duo Nathalie Djurberg and Hans Berg, the show was founded on "the animated monster in our repression and anxiety... [and] an encounter with the real other." Finding the intersection between sexy and preppy, Miu Miu silk boxers were layered under mini skirts, scrunched ribbed socks were paired with ballet flats, and there was no shortage of leather. Engulfing snow-white fur, long white ribbons tied around necks, and endless belt variations accessorized the monochrome ensembles.
Pay Homage to Tweed -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Chanel
Held in the Grand Palais Éphémère, Chanel A/W 22/23 couture was an homage to the quintessential house signature - tweed. It is said that Gabrielle Chanel would walk by the River Tweed in Scotland, where she would gather different flora and use their colors as a reference for her artisans to create fabric. The haute couture show exuded an elegant, bright, and positive mood; multi-pocket safari jacket and soft woolen outerwear interpreted masculine silhouettes; couture qualities were brought by patterns, materials, and details; leathers and jewels sent out a gorgeous retro atmosphere.
Pay Homage to the Classic -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of LANVIN
Drawing inspiration from the unlikely pairing of Art Deco and Ancient Egypt, Sialelli drew connections in design and architecture: jacquard patterns and opulent beaded embroidery spoke of the former while Jeanne Lanvin’s love of Egypt was realised via a mix of jewellery inspired by ancient art, sphinx prints and sci-fi shapes inspired by Dune that raced the sands of time.
Lighthearted -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Hermès
Continuing the lighthearted air, Hermès released the A/W 2022 womenswear collection. The artistic director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski drew equestrian elements from the brand DNA and injected slim-fit tailoring into the clothing design. The use of knitted fabrics allowed the restraint air to be sexy and cool. The whole collection, especially the leather treatment, still reflected the fine artisanship of Hermès. These innovative pieces on the runway expressed the personality of wearer and the unique French romance.
Fashion Rewilding -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Chloé
Fashion house Chloé has revealed its Autumn/Winter 2022 collection, with a environmental message of “Rewilding.” Infusing fashion with nature, the collection looks to integrate the “rewilding” approach, which is to let nature restore damaged ecosystems itself. Climate disasters like scorching deserts and melting icecaps dot the runway alongside sleek silhouettes. Accessories have been recycled or are pulled from the natural world—talismans and jewelery come with natural gemstones such as amethyst, labradorite, red jasper and rhodonite. The environmentally conscious brand boasts a 56% make-up of lower-impact materials within its ready-to-wear-collection, up 21% from the year before.
The New Normality of Noughties -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Isabel Marant
The namesake label Isabel Marant founded in 1994 is known for its thick French accent and pioneering temperament. The latest A/W 22/23 runway was a conversation between future and the past, nodding to Y2K. Pragmatism took the center stage. Overalls, bomber jackets, oversized outerwear, laid-back knitwear, and denim were the staples to awaken a new languid condition. Neon Persian prints and shiny sequins met the retro aesthetics. Stretchy velvet top was sexy and charming. The mix of knitwear and thigh-high boots has been the mainstream this season.
Code Sharing -- The Runway Analysis of OFF-WHITE
Virgil Abloh was fashion’s most frequent flyer, a multi-hyphenate creative director, DJ, architect, serial collaborator, and amplifier for the voices of the Black community. The man was not earthbound. So it makes a sort of sense that since his sudden passing last November we’ve been visited by a drone kite and runway angels. A ride on “Spaceship Earth,” as it was called. Among the passengers: Rihanna and A$AP Rocky, Idris and Sabrina Elba, Pharrell Williams and his family, the CEOs of Louis Vuitton and New Guards Group, and a who’s who of designers including Jonathan Anderson, Olivier Rousteing, Matthew Williams, Guram Gvasalia, and Jerry Lorenzo.
Modernistic Magic & Mystery -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Max Mara
Max Mara pays homage to a creative polymath whose oeuvre was overlooked for decades, and is now rediscovered. Architect, dancer, textile designer, painter and sculptor, Sophie Taeuber-Arp was that rare thing; a modernist who invested even the most everyday objects with a sense of magic and mystery. Griffiths took cues from Tauber-Arps 18th century magnum opus, The King Stag, where woodland folklore and marionette dolls shine.
Balanced Minimalism -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Jil Sander
Known as ‘the Queen of Less’, Jil Sander continues the focus on developing clothes for middle and upper class women. “We were thinking about elegance,” Lucie said. “We really wanted to focus on sculptural tailoring, almost couture-like, but we like this new energy, a very cropped silhouette.” Come fall the Jil Sander woman will be wearing a wool skirt suit, its jacket sculpted with an hourglass volume and the skirt just peeking out from beneath its hem, or a slightly longer, flippier skirt with a cape-like jacket. The Meiers have made handcrafts—macramé, crochet, and the like—an essential part of their Jil Sander aesthetic.
Wonderful Times -- The Runway Analysis of Wooyoungmi
Wooyoungmi A/W 22/23 ready-to-wear collection had been inspired by Amor Towles’s 2016 novel A Gentleman in Moscow, in which an aristocratic count finds himself under house arrest in the Hotel Metropol Moscow in 1922, and is shifted from a five-star suite to servant’s quarters. Four white doors—fire doors, the kind that snap shut with a vengeance—inset in stud walls broke up the space in Paris’s Garage Amelot, the multi-story car park venue for the Wooyoungmi show. Each time a model walked through a door and let it close sharply behind them, a tone was simulated on the soundtrack, creating a score composed of slams.
Going Back to the Past -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Fendi
Fendi released its latest A/W 2022 womenswear collection on February 23, 2022. Kim Jones drew inspirations from seeing Delfina Delettrez in the Rome office wearing a blouse of Silvia Venturini’s from a 1986 Fendi collection by Karl Lagerfeld. He combined those references with a callback to another Lagerfeld-designed Fendi collection for spring 2000, one with a delicacy in direct opposition to the blousy proportions of the ’86 show. The graceful, rebellious, and light designs broke the classic conventions. Slip dresses, ruffled gauze tops and dresses exuded a feminine temperament and offered a lithe experience in S/S.
The Children of Lir -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Simone Rocha
Simone Rocha is an emerging designer brand from Britain founded in 2010. Inspired by the Irish fable The Children of Lir, the runway of A/W 22/23 collection told a story about transforming boys and girls into swans for 900 years. Creased dresses are classical and romantic. The paneling of gorgeous velvet and sheer interprets the noble temperament of court girls. Pearls and diamonds are scattered irregularly on every look.
Self-awareness -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Jonathan Simkhai
Jonathan Simkhai launched his namesake label in 2010. Fusing women’s gracefulness with masculinity, the designer is known for powerful and charming ready-to-wear. Jonathan Simkhai presents women’s outstanding self-awareness from a feminine perspective. Ethereal fringes, sexy cutouts, wide stripes, and scale sequins are the major elements in this season.
Modern Elegancy -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Gabriela Hearst
Driven by her pastoral childhood in Uruguay and design experiences in New York City, the former model Gabriela Hearst added a dignified and elegant sense into her design through natural tones. To convey a low-pace lifestyle, Gabriela Hearst put emphasis on traditional artisanship and the selection of materials. The artworks of Ana Martinez Orizondo were printed on garments. White embroidered panels and hand braiding endowed every pieces of clothing with unique meanings.
Tough Women -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Peter Do
The Vietnamese designer Peter Do launched his namesake brand in New York in 2018 after winning the LVMH Prize and working for Celine. Drawing inspirations from menswear design, Peter Do’s smart silhouettes and innovative tailoring reflect his flawless techniques on fabrics. This ready-to-wear collection only used black, white, camel, and gray with architectural lines to show women’s tough power.
Gen Z Mixes -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Anna Sui
Anna Sui’s mind has traditionally been a lightning rod for what young people want to wear. In the 2020s, Sui continues to look to the not-so-distant past for inspiration, but she is hitting a new stride in how she translates the obsessions of ’60s rockers, ’20s flappers, and ’90s IT Girls for Gen Z and Millennial fashion obsessives. Her fall 2022 collection is her strongest marriage of retro ideas with newly popular silhouettes yet, a decadent and delightful romp through Brit Pop, Art Deco, and New Wave, all topped off with cute animal bags inspired by a ’90s original James Coviello designed for her way back when.