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Focus on Placement -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Catwalk Details
Based on the data of A/W 20/21 four fashion weeks, this report analyzes different parts and placement details of clothing, explores the beauty of details and provides inspiration for extreme details.
Confidence Under The Softness -- The Catwalk Analysis of Bottega Veneta Womenswear
Known as the Italian Hermès, Bottega Veneta is confident, elegant and self-loyal. At the end of 2019, the BV team, led by new creative director Daniel Lee, sweeps the British fashion awards, making it one of the biggest shows in Milan Fashion Week. The A/W 20/21 collection of Bottega Veneta is launched in Milan. The show uses projector to reproduce the architecture of Renaissance Italian architect Andrea Palladio. The new season of Bottega Veneta is no more serious, but filled with fluorescent tones like kiwi green, creating the symbolic colors for the future. Daniel Lee uses 59 looks to show female confidence hidden in softness, present the pure self-expression, and create the intellectual urban style. The materials used in this show are reusable and recyclable. The backstage catering also uses organic foods and biodegradable tableware, and surplus food is donated to NGO, showing the sustainable and anti-waste fashion attitude.
The Anthem of Knight Girls -- The Catwalk Analysis of Chanel Womenswear
Chanel A/W 2020 show is held in Grand Palais, Paris. The show is inspired by Ms. Chanel's racehorse "Romantica" and the photo of Karl Lagerfeld in knight boots, displaying the outline of equestrian clothing. Virginie Viard loves Les Biches by Claude Chabrol (French director), and presents the charming yet tough image of females in the movie in this season. Virginie Viard rejuvenates the signature silhouette coat with the unique tailoring. The wave-like neckline and plackets are soft and romantic.
Elegance of History -- The Catwalk Analysis of LANVIN Womenswear
LANVIN A/W 2020 womenswear show is held in Manufacture des Gobelins built in the 15th century in Paris. The show with a theme of Conversation Piece draws inspirations from the 1960s. The space age, elaborate makeup and supermodels from the 1990s work together to make the show a retro party. The creative director Bruno Sialelli connects the contemporary era and the history through a time-travel dialogue with the brand's founder Jeanne Lanvin. In this season, he reinterprets the creative ideas of Jeanne Lanvin and interprets Lanvin in different voices. The new collection takes example by Jeanne Lanvin's signature lines, formal dress style and modern graphic embroidery in the 1920s and 1930s. The graceful lines of the shoulder and structural simple cutting remind of the elegance of haute couture in the middle of the 20th century.
Infinite Starry Sky -- The Catwalk Analysis of Saicai Womenswear
In the whole A/W 2020 series of Sacai, the theme of "Universe" is not only the open-and-shut starry sky. They choose four from the thousands of images provided by NASA as the inspiration, so in this season we can see the brand turns space into beautiful fashion with the deconstruction design it has always followed. Inspired by the special issue of 2015 NASA, it works with fabric designer Alexander Girard to create a star map made up of mobile phones, letters and numbers. And the lower left corner which was to mark "Alien" presents "SACAI" now. Representative deconstruction and reorganization are used. The key design is combining light silk with high-tech fabric. Different items are combined to create a new silhouette which highlights the ethereal feel. But it doesn't blindly use lightweight fabrics. Instead, it makes use of the balance of fabric combination to design.
Rose in The Dark Night -- The Catwalk Analysis of Valentino Womenswear
In this series, male and female models are in black, grey, classic Valentino red, low-key indigo and emerald. The clothing starts from basic silhouette to highlight the power of accurate cutting. Valentino, which still shows haute couture technique in the ready-to-wear series, is undoubtedly more low-key than previous seasons, but it is still meticulous about details. The series uses embroidery and print to sketch the realistic florals, adding a lively feel to the calm overcoat and the sleeveless dress.
Releasing Female Power -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Paris Fashion Week
From "leftover lady", "malechauvinist" to "sexual harassment" and "anti-domestic violence", more and more gender issues have emerged in public debate in recent years, accompanied by a feminist critique. Feminism is a series of knowledge methodology formed around the criticism of human patriarchy, and beyond the specific disciplines and research paradigms. It has become an important part of the social current of thoughts. Throughout the four fashion weeks for A/W 20/21, many brands have mentioned liberating females, female power and feminism, especially Paris Fashion Week. Christian Dior has a theme of "I SAY I" to express female power. Celine tells the story of womenswear during May 1968 events in France. Chanel puts forward the idea of liberation, and launches a series friendly to women. Valentino is the queen of the new minimalism. Miu Miu emphasizes the young lady's wear in the empire collection of the 1940s style. All of them are speaking out for women through fashionable way to show the gender mainstreaming from the perspective of gender equality under the turbulent times.
Creator of The Self -- The Catwalk Analysis of Celine Womenswear
The A/W 2020 collection of Celine still has the strong personal style of creative director Hedi Slimane. Male and female models are artistic and elegant, but with a deep rock sentiment. The whole show recreated the scene where the young bourgeois men and women strolled in the streets in the 1970s Paris. Gender ambiguity is still a hot topic in the fashion industry, and it gradually becomes a mainstream concept. Hedi said his show was unisex, where menswear can be worn by women and women's bags can be worn by men to be fit for consumers at different ages. This time he combines men's and women's fashion shows for the first time, deeply discussing the increasingly blurred gender in current fashion.
Innovate The Classic -- The Comprehensive Analysis of London Fashion Week
London Fashion Week is an international fashion week for fashion buyers, the news media, and the public. London fashion week ended in February this year. And it's clear that compared to previous LFW shows, this season is a little subdued. This season's London Fashion Week advocates environmentalism and no animal fur. Chinese media, fashion buyers and stars have been forced to change their work plans because of the outbreak. However, there are still many highlights.
The Integration of Luxury with Sports -- The Catwalks Analysis of Off-White Womenswear
This season Off-White teams up with Arc'teryx to put on a womenswear show with a theme of "Slighty Off", creating a collection that blends luxury and sports. The collaboration of Off-white with Arc'teryx breaks the stereotype that the outdoor clothing only focuses on functionality but has no distinctive appearance, and the impression that high fashion is dominated by suits, dresses and high heels.
Girls, Move Forward! -- The Catwalk Analysis of Chloé Womenswear
In A/W 20/21 collection of Chloé, Natacha ramsa-levi, the creative director, explores the diverse female world. And she invites sculptor Marion Verboom to present sensual gold totem in the show, and musician Marianne Faithfull to read the classic literature. The iconic concrete lines from painter Rita Ackermann's works are also injected into the design of items and accessories. This season Chloe A/W 20/21 collection blends painting, sculpture and poetry into this show, adopts heather rose, dune, light brown, chestnut, dust blue and caramel, and applies paisley prints, the beaded collar and embroidery for a soft visual feel.
Female Power of "I SAY I" – The Catwalk Analysis of Christian Dior Womenswear
The A/W 2020 collection of Christian Dior keeps speaking out for women. The installation, created by "collective artist" Claire Fontaine, features a newspaper-covered floor and slogans from the late Italian art critic and feminist Carla Lonzi. A series of neon-decorated slogans in the show and the printed headbands display the independent character of modern women. The creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, draws inspirations from her girlhood diaries and integrates with Mr. Dior's beloved check elements. (Checks made up of pastel colors like milk cocoa, light green and warm grey are endowed with more creativity, elegant and nonchalant.) And tassels are prevailing in this season. Maria Grazia Chiuri continues the theme of "female power", speaks out for women, and expresses Dior's free soul of "I SAY I" with fashion.
Coexistence of Classics and Future - The Catwalk Analysis of Simonetta Ravizza Women's Fur
Simonetta Ravizza has been focusing on modern ready-to-wear designs that are relaxing, casual and simple, and using sophisticated designs that combine lightweight fabrics with different types of fur. Simonetta Ravizza has teamed up with Loro Piana to create a kind of material made from rare wool yarns. The yarn comes from ranches in a remote valley in central Italy, where animals are raised in an ancient breeding tradition and production is strictly limited, so the yarn has a rough surface. Simonetta Ravizza weaves it into natural-colored check and glen plaid which are made into lose jackets, overcoats and sportswear of the 1970s style. The brand is also committed to using of artificial fur, and to reducing the application of fur.
Navigation Season -- The Catwalk Analysis of Max Mara Womenswear
Inheritance and innovation are the essence of the A/W 2020 Max Mara show. This season Ian Griffiths draws inspiration from the sailor chic. Michel Foucault says, dreams will dry up without civilization on board. As Ian Griffiths puts it at the start of the show, "This is a romantic trip that starts in Morocco and goes north to Russia". The A/W 2020 collection of Max Mara is very adventurous. The compass marked with the brand name and the sailing ship lead us to experience the charm of the winter sea.
Liberating Gentle Power -- The Catwalk Analysis of Fendi Womenswear
The A/W 20/21 collection of Fendi kicks off with the psychedelic sound of Alessandro Cortini, Nine Inch Nails's keyboardist. This time Silvia Venturini, the creative director of Fendi, performs the theme of Gentle Power through the combination of structure and softness, and showcases the liberation of wearable female power. This season plus-size models join the catwalk lineup for the first time. The high-waist of the crisp overcoat and the well-fitting dress accentuates female form, which echoes the pink streamlined catwalk. Retro lantern sleeves run through the whole series. Color-blocking and contrasting of classic elements fully display the role switch between boudoir and meeting room. The strap boots with sheepskin cushion and satin high-heeled shoes highlight the vampire-like enchanting temperament, in line with the theme of boudoir. The waisted design, military outerwear with flare sleeves and the crisp fabric present the powerful temperament of females in the meeting room, quite emotional. Fendi's aesthetics balances between sexiness and calmness, toughness and softness, gentleness and power.
Hedonist -- The Catwalk Analysis of MSGM Womenswear
Massimo Giorgetti, the artistic director of MSGM, who constantly looks for cultural inspiration from the past, is an unconventional hedonist. This time MSGM draws inspiration from horror films (Suspiria, Profondo rosso and The Cat O Nine Tails), and pays more attention to the clothing match and the application of prints. Besides, accessories also shine brightly on the catwalk. Models are carrying colorful bags, with gloves and scarves that belong to British nobility in the 1910s, which smartly applies the retro elements of the fashion industry and reflects the romantic girl style of MSGM.
Surreal Glamour -- The Catwalk Analysis of Prada Womenswear
Prada creates a surreal A/W 2020 collection for future women with the theme of "Surreal Glamour". The show displays the contradiction and duality, the technical elements and classicism, the futuristic feel and the modern feel. This series uses a tough silhouette and bright colors, bringing a surreal visual presentation. The show is designed to be a surreal space, and models are walking on the catwalk.
Minimalist Beauty of Purity -- The Catwalk Analysis of Jil Sander Womenswear
After the "unity of opposites" of S/S 2020 Jil Sander, this season the couple, Lucie and Luke Meier, brings the minimalist beauty of purity. The couple knows models can not fully display the emotion and temperament of clothing by just walking around the catwalk, so they put chairs in the center of the stage for models to sit down. The unique design endows the show with a different emotion. The noble feeling also brings a dramatic moment.
Win-win Cooperation -- The Catwalks Analysis of Womenswear of MM6 Maison Margiela × The North Face
In A/W 2020 collection of MM6 Maison Margiela, MM6 takes the so-called Paris-style clothing items inspired by New York and launched in London as the main line, hopes to convey the circulation of fashion elements without excessive retro. The signature 3D cutting and avant-garde design sense of MM6 are combined with the Expedition System of The North Face. Expedition System originated in 1990 aims at detachable and multi-layered functional clothing designed for outdoor activities in extreme weather. It is perfectly in line with the design language of MM6. And based on that, various classic styles of The North Face take on different vitality.
Racing and Sailing -- The Catwalks Analysis of Tommy Hilfiger Womenswear
This season, the New York brand, Tommy Hilfiger, heads to London Fashion Week for its A/W 2020 collection. The brand keeps its vision of "vision to waste nothing and welcome all" and continues its exploration in sustainable fashion. In the A/W 2020 show, Tommy Hilfiger and Lewis Hamilton work together to create a new collection inspired by racers. More than 75% of styles are made in sustainable ways, including 100% organic cotton, recycled materials, down substitute and washed denim. The collection combines the traditional menswear of Tommy Hilfiger and the street style of Lewis Hamilton, and mixes burnt olive, neutral tones with highly saturated neon colors.
A Doll's House in Fairy Tale -- The Catwalks Analysis of Gucci Womenswear
Gucci is always the most dramatic show of Milan Fashion Week. In A/W 2020, the creative director Alessandro Michele opens up the most confidential and private back stage to the public. The catwalk is like a doll house that combines carousel. The dreamlike presenting way and the gorgeous clothing collocation satisfy fans. The series uses a lot of kidswear details, seeming to satisfying kids' curiosity. Lace and velvet are used, which conforms with Belle Époque, one of S/S 2021 theme trends released by POP.
Memories -- The Catwalk Analysis of Burberry Womenswear
Since Riccardo Tisci took charge of Burberry's creative director in 2018, versatility and inclusiveness have made up Burberry's current form. After Kingdom, Tempest and Evolution, Riccardo Tisci takes Memories as the theme of A/W 20/21 Burberry. Images with mirroring and perceptive connotations are secretly displayed before the show. Skin, petal, dew... The shadow created by mirror symmetry sets the keynote of this season. The "Memories" world built by Burberry is like the alternations of virtual and real spaces with overlapping dimensions in the movie, Inception. On the catwalk, twin pianists Katia and Marielle Labeque cooperate with electronic producer Arcaper to put on a bizarre duet. For Riccardo Tisci, this series is a self-recall and reflection on memory, consciousness, perception, psychology and life.
Masculinity -- The Catwalks Analysis of Gucci Menswear
This is Alessandro Michele's fifth year at Gucci. Michele leads us to rethink the definition of masculinity through the nonlinear time travel to the moment of birth. Gucci jumps out of traditional concepts and rewrites the powerful male chauvinism. Without social restraints or power limits, boys are wearing Mary Jane shoes, stockings and skirts in bright colors and a well-fitting silhouette. Gucci breaks male rules and neutral beauty, showing diversified sides of men.
The Confident Wardrobe -- The Catwalk Analysis of Victoria Beckham Womenswear
Victoria Beckham is a high-end fashion brand founded by famous British singer and fashion designer Victoria Beckham in 2008. Victoria Beckham's own fame and her steady middle-class background make her designs unique. The 20/21 A//W series is inspired by that exhausted woman are seeking peace, and creates the style of confident wardrobe. The collection records the return of the black avant-garde silhouette and exposed neckline, negative space rhomboid knitting which is first raised by Stephan Cooke (a young London menswear designer), two pieces of Shetland knitwear (one in cornflower blue, the other in yolk yellow), flares sleeves, the dress with dense and regular smocking stitch, the finely cut check shirt, the skirt with a tough silhouette, and the layered color-blocked overcoat. These all bring a confident femininity of urban office ladies.