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2023-09-12 63666
The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Proenza Schouler
Proenza Schouler's Spring/Summer 2024 collection has chosen to debut at Phillips Auction House. Here, Proenza Schouler explores the distinction between art and commerce, while continuing to showcase the image of the modern woman in their previous season's reinterpretation of the brand's archives, creating functional and wearable garments. This season, they have utilized different materials such as sheer fabrics and grid-like ribbons to cleverly construct delicate and ethereal layers. With the reimagined PS logo, they embark on forging a new classic for the brand, further showcasing their position as leaders in New York's sophisticated and fashionable style.
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2022-09-17 80063
Time -- The Runway Analysis of Peter Do
As a comment on the pace and rush of fashion, Do titled his collection Time. “I was thinking about how we always seem to be running out of time in this industry. As a designer and brand, we are always living in the future and never in the present. This collection marks a period where, for the first time in a while, I feel present; where I’ve slowed down to savour those important moments in life.” His reflections manifested in what he called the “fundamentals” of his brand: The deconstruction of garments, a focus on the convertible wardrobe and transparency. Do played with androgynous codes in the exaggerated fits and volumes of suits, magnified classic shirts and exploded them into buoyant coats.
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2022-02-23 65884
Self-awareness -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Jonathan Simkhai
Jonathan Simkhai launched his namesake label in 2010. Fusing women’s gracefulness with masculinity, the designer is known for powerful and charming ready-to-wear. Jonathan Simkhai presents women’s outstanding self-awareness from a feminine perspective. Ethereal fringes, sexy cutouts, wide stripes, and scale sequins are the major elements in this season.
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2022-02-23 67422
Modern Elegancy -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Gabriela Hearst
Driven by her pastoral childhood in Uruguay and design experiences in New York City, the former model Gabriela Hearst added a dignified and elegant sense into her design through natural tones. To convey a low-pace lifestyle, Gabriela Hearst put emphasis on traditional artisanship and the selection of materials. The artworks of Ana Martinez Orizondo were printed on garments. White embroidered panels and hand braiding endowed every pieces of clothing with unique meanings.
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2022-02-22 72720
Tough Women -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Peter Do
The Vietnamese designer Peter Do launched his namesake brand in New York in 2018 after winning the LVMH Prize and working for Celine. Drawing inspirations from menswear design, Peter Do’s smart silhouettes and innovative tailoring reflect his flawless techniques on fabrics. This ready-to-wear collection only used black, white, camel, and gray with architectural lines to show women’s tough power.
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2022-02-18 87480
Color-block Aesthetics -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Tory Burch
Tory Burch set her A/W 22/23 fashion show against a backdrop of midtown Manhattan, with red light from the New Yorker Hotel sign glancing off the runway, like neon reflecting on rainy streets. The idea, she explained, “was to give women a toolbox; I want them to feel they can take this collection and create their own personality with it.”
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2022-02-15 94447
Practical Fashion -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of 3.1 Phillip Lim
Debuted at New York Fashion Week in 2005, 3.1 Phillip Lim was born from a friendship between founders, Phillip Lim and Wen Zhou. Both 31 years of age at its inception, the designer and entrepreneur were pioneers in the accessible luxury space, with the goal of bringing an innovative, elevated, and chic wardrobe to the modern global citizen. The brand has since expanded to include womenswear, menswear, accessories and footwear, with stores in New York, Los Angeles, Hawaii, China, Japan, South Korea and clientele in over 12 countries.
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2022-02-14 83100
'90s Rave -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Ulla Johnson
Ulla Johnson is a namesake fashion brand founded in 2000, featuring sophisticated details and fine tailoring. The designs for business women reveal the street fashion in New York City and draw inspirations from the original urban power. Printing is the signature and DNA of the brand. The Fall 2022 ready-to-wear fashion show in the New York Public Library displayed the installation of Alma Allen’s sculptures and performance by PawPaw Rod. Turtlenecks, handknits, crochets, suede patchwork, and printed dresses bring back the ‘90s raves.
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2021-09-13 71504
Möbius Strip -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Jonathan Simkhai
The eponymous label was founded by the designer Jonathan Simkhai, the graduate of Parsons School of Design, in 2010 in New York, which provides luxury ready-to-wear for the modern women. "No matter what, we just need to keep going, like the circle of life," the designer said. "There's ups and downs, but as long as you just keep it moving I think it's going to connect. I guess that's kind of how fashion feels in a way, too." To commemorate the anniversary of 9/11, he brought his own collection and presented a show about circle. Lines, fringes and pleats were grouped with low-saturation pale colors to express that the beginning is also the end.
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2021-09-11 63745
Garden Blooms -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of 3.1 Phillip Lim
Phillip Lim and his partner Wen Zhou founded the label in the autumn of 2005 when they were 31, which is the inspiration of the brand name 3.1 Philip Lim. The brand is known for its neat tailoring and tight-fit effect. In S/S 2022, designer tended to use sustainable wool and regenerated polyester blends. Being titled as Garden Blooms, the collection shown no traditional floral patterns and focused more on the design of fabric and styling. Besides, new palettes were also added to present the theme.
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2021-09-10 71586
Purity & Minimalism -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of PETER DO
The Vietnamese designer Peter Do, who once learned from Phoebe Philo and Derek Lam, won the 2014 LVMH Graduate Prize and founded the namesake label in 2018. Set in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, in an open lot next to the East River, Do's S/S 2022 collection was one of the most anticipated shows of a revived New York Fashion Week. Peter Do gave a hand-written note to each and every one of his guests. In the letter, he likened designing his new collection—the first he's showing on the runway—to making Pho with his dad as a teen."A good Pho is reduced and edited, to an essence" he wrote. Though he's been a minimalist from the start, when analyzing his early work with more experienced eyes, he decided to pare it back and cut out its excesses. The four-piece suit, which he's made a signature, now features a lighter-weight pleated skirt than in seasons past because customers had told him that there was too much fabric around the waist. Looking at photographs of his grandmother's church outfits led to an exploration of the traditional Vietnamese ao dai, which he added lapels and closures to for a side-buttoning coat. An early snapshot of his mom and dad in which his mother holds a rose inspired the rich embroideries on the finale pieces.
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2020-11-14 114440
Rebirth & Close to Nature -- The Comprehensive Analysis of New York Fashion Week
Due to COVID-19, this year New York Fashion Week has been shortened from the usual eight days to four, and fewer than 10 designers hold physical shows for their latest collections. Despite the severe condition in New York, many brands still hold fashion shows offline, which reveals the determination of the whole fashion industry to survive and return to happiness. Many designers draw inspiration from the relationship between man and nature, and some put the show in the woods. Beautiful flowers and nature-inspired patterns characterize this season. In the meantime, people are stuck at home, and they have a growing demand for home decorations. Therefore, diverse and eco-friendly concept is also warmly welcomed in S/S 2021. This season features exaggerated expressions, such as the big bowknot, spreading ruffles and dramatic hem designs, as well as various joyful colors which represent hope and rebirth.
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2020-09-22 102813
Both Hard and Soft -- The Catwalk Analysis of Peter Do Womenswear
In this turbulent era, flexibility has been essential. Since its establishment two years ago, Peter Do features neat lines as well as flexibility. Peter Do's designs reveal deconstruction and feminine details. This season he continues the outerwear that can be adjusted to be a cropped top and a backless camisole in S/S 2020, and mixes it with silk dresses, vests and suits.
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2020-09-17 77948
Meet Me in Tulum -- The Catwalk Analysis of Jason Wu Womenswear
Jason Wu S/S 2021 series awakens people's good memories about rainforest with a casual natural style. Inspired by the Mexican jungle island of Tulum, the designer creates an energy box that allows him to gather sunshine, tropical jungle, colors and happy memories. Unlike the stereotype that Jason Wu focuses on an urban elegant style, this time it displays a novel and younger side through casual, playful, vigorous and passionate designs.
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2020-02-19 79048
Escape from Reality -- The Catwalk Analysis of MICHAEL KORS Womenswear
On the last day of A/W New York Fashion Week, it is MICHAEL KORS's turn to wrap up. It transforms the American stock exchange in Manhattan into an idyllic cottage full of a modern and cozy atmosphere, leading people to travel between the city and the countryside. "Sometimes we just want to get away from the noise of the city and feel the tranquility of nature," says designer Michael Kors, "of course, we can't all move to the countryside. However, we can integrate own private time and comfortable feelings into our life through the beautiful design". This season there are many classic check and totem, lethargic cape, contrasting leather and wool, full and strong autumn tones and nonchalant outline, exuding the unique charm of MICHAEL KORS.
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2019-09-11 88758
Urban yet somehow tranquil -- The Analysis Of 3.1 Phillip Lim Womenswear Catwalks
At 3 p.m., September 9th, 2019, New York time, 3.1 Phillip Lim released new collections with the theme of "Urban yet somehow tranquil" in New York Fashion Week in Greenpoint open warehouse in Brooklyn. Cutting is the highlight of spring and summer and the detachable scarf at the shoulder are the major points, And the designer, Lim, clearly realizes that the design serves not only for classic New York office ladies, but all women working in every field. In the meanwhile, Lim chooses new organic recycled fabrics and adopts copper-coated technique to produce the pleated navy dress like satin (The copper cup was made up of recycled cotton waste). The brand is famous now because of abandoning fancy clothing and complicated design to insist on sustainable development.