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Elegant and Romantic -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Altuzarra
Altuzarra's 2024 Spring/Summer collection sees designer Joseph returning to an exploration of vulnerability and authenticity. Drawing inspiration from "Rosemary's Baby," with Miuccia Prada leading the entire process, the aesthetic of the 1960s and 70s from the film is reintroduced to the runway. In an effort to attract women, Altuzarra presents satin coats in shades of red, butter yellow, and ivory. These coats are A-line and slightly oversized, resembling enlarged versions of doll coats from the 60s. They manage to be neither distorted nor conservative, but simply stunning. The collection aims to persuade women to move away from outdated notions of avant-garde and provocative sexiness.
The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Proenza Schouler
Proenza Schouler's Spring/Summer 2024 collection has chosen to debut at Phillips Auction House. Here, Proenza Schouler explores the distinction between art and commerce, while continuing to showcase the image of the modern woman in their previous season's reinterpretation of the brand's archives, creating functional and wearable garments. This season, they have utilized different materials such as sheer fabrics and grid-like ribbons to cleverly construct delicate and ethereal layers. With the reimagined PS logo, they embark on forging a new classic for the brand, further showcasing their position as leaders in New York's sophisticated and fashionable style.
New York Women's Fashion Week -- Recommended Brands
Fashion Week landed in New York City once again with six days of Fall/Winter 23/24 shows from brands including Rodarte, Thom Browne, Coach, Prabal Gurung and Eckhaus Latta.
Retro Club -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Anna Sui
Anna Sui started to imagine what to wear to the Peppermint Lounge, and began her Fall 2023 collection. Slip dresses in satin or chiffon with lingerie lace trim plus beautiful blouses and bed jackets with the same treatment. For the year of the rabbit, Anna Suit revived the “Bunny” hat from her storybook Fall 98 collection, originally made by James Coviello.
The Second Skin -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Dion Lee
Dion Lee is a beacon of sensual fashion. The Australian designer’s subversive silhouettes oftentimes offer their wearers a transformational alter-ego, one that’s particularly unlocked upon passing a bouncer’s ID check at the club entrance. For Fall 2023, this “second skin” is Lee’s blueprint. Base-layer silhouettes were deconstructed and battered, mimicking the process of shedding — or, more specifically, ecdysis. Hosiery was hand distressed and so was denim.
BIOMIMICRY -- The Runway Analysis of Dion Lee
The genderless BIOMIMICRY collection saw men and women embrace extreme cut-outs, nipple-revealing sheer and chainmail handbags. Even the most miniature of mini skirts weren’t just reserved for the toned legs of Dion Lee ladies. Some designs resembled skeletons with ribcage-like fabrications and architectural silhouettes, while others looked ready to battle bad guys … and big waves, such as the black neoprene wetsuit. Perhaps, a homage to the Sydney-native’s former sun and surf lifestyle.
Time -- The Runway Analysis of Peter Do
As a comment on the pace and rush of fashion, Do titled his collection Time. “I was thinking about how we always seem to be running out of time in this industry. As a designer and brand, we are always living in the future and never in the present. This collection marks a period where, for the first time in a while, I feel present; where I’ve slowed down to savour those important moments in life.” His reflections manifested in what he called the “fundamentals” of his brand: The deconstruction of garments, a focus on the convertible wardrobe and transparency. Do played with androgynous codes in the exaggerated fits and volumes of suits, magnified classic shirts and exploded them into buoyant coats.
Sunny Romance -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Ulla Johnson
Ulla Johnson Spring 2023 collection drew inspirations from Bryan Lavelle’s bright and saturated abstract paintings. Bryan explores the features of acrylics and oils. The layering and gradually adding the work’s surface forms a patterned and textured aesthetic.
Self-awareness -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Jonathan Simkhai
Jonathan Simkhai launched his namesake label in 2010. Fusing women’s gracefulness with masculinity, the designer is known for powerful and charming ready-to-wear. Jonathan Simkhai presents women’s outstanding self-awareness from a feminine perspective. Ethereal fringes, sexy cutouts, wide stripes, and scale sequins are the major elements in this season.
Modern Elegancy -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Gabriela Hearst
Driven by her pastoral childhood in Uruguay and design experiences in New York City, the former model Gabriela Hearst added a dignified and elegant sense into her design through natural tones. To convey a low-pace lifestyle, Gabriela Hearst put emphasis on traditional artisanship and the selection of materials. The artworks of Ana Martinez Orizondo were printed on garments. White embroidered panels and hand braiding endowed every pieces of clothing with unique meanings.
Tough Women -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Peter Do
The Vietnamese designer Peter Do launched his namesake brand in New York in 2018 after winning the LVMH Prize and working for Celine. Drawing inspirations from menswear design, Peter Do’s smart silhouettes and innovative tailoring reflect his flawless techniques on fabrics. This ready-to-wear collection only used black, white, camel, and gray with architectural lines to show women’s tough power.
Gen Z Mixes -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Anna Sui
Anna Sui’s mind has traditionally been a lightning rod for what young people want to wear. In the 2020s, Sui continues to look to the not-so-distant past for inspiration, but she is hitting a new stride in how she translates the obsessions of ’60s rockers, ’20s flappers, and ’90s IT Girls for Gen Z and Millennial fashion obsessives. Her fall 2022 collection is her strongest marriage of retro ideas with newly popular silhouettes yet, a decadent and delightful romp through Brit Pop, Art Deco, and New Wave, all topped off with cute animal bags inspired by a ’90s original James Coviello designed for her way back when.
Modern Nomadic Tribe -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Lemaire
Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran let themselves go with the idea of “traveling somewhere.” The destination was purely imaginary, an Impressionistic landscape painted on a 30-meter backdrop by the playwright, scenographer, and theater director Philippe Quesne. It proved a strong foil for what Lemaire described backstage as a nomadic tribe. Hence a collection composed of thoughtfully layered pieces that neatly spliced ease, movement, and a sophisticated take on functionality. Softly tailored outerwear in the form of a tobacco trench, a coat that can be worn like a blouson or a gilet, a black overcoat with a white lapel and lining, and an elevated take on the denim jacket looked like they could walk straight off the runway and into the streets of Paris. A blouse with a red marbled print, designed by the theartisan Frédérique Pelletier, brought a bit of psychedelia to a lineup focused on elevated effortlessness.
Color-block Aesthetics -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Tory Burch
Tory Burch set her A/W 22/23 fashion show against a backdrop of midtown Manhattan, with red light from the New Yorker Hotel sign glancing off the runway, like neon reflecting on rainy streets. The idea, she explained, “was to give women a toolbox; I want them to feel they can take this collection and create their own personality with it.”
Practical Fashion -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of 3.1 Phillip Lim
Debuted at New York Fashion Week in 2005, 3.1 Phillip Lim was born from a friendship between founders, Phillip Lim and Wen Zhou. Both 31 years of age at its inception, the designer and entrepreneur were pioneers in the accessible luxury space, with the goal of bringing an innovative, elevated, and chic wardrobe to the modern global citizen. The brand has since expanded to include womenswear, menswear, accessories and footwear, with stores in New York, Los Angeles, Hawaii, China, Japan, South Korea and clientele in over 12 countries.
1950s Haute Couture -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Jason Wu
Jason Wu is a leading fashion designer in New York City who takes fineness, charm, and luxury at the center. A/W 22/23 collection drew inspiration from 1950s haute couture, and Wu modernized the styling to meet the needs of everyday wear, like a puffer coat cut in waterproof moiré with an era-appropriate midi-length circle skirt, and a bow-front cocktail dress split into a separate top and skirt for versatility. Tweeds unraveled into thick fringes and warp printing resulted in blurry, imprecise florals. All the satins were thrown in the washing machine for a less precious look. But the stars of the show were the strapless moiré party dresses, one in marigold and the other black; they delivered on the glamour of those ’50s illustrations.
'90s Rave -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Ulla Johnson
Ulla Johnson is a namesake fashion brand founded in 2000, featuring sophisticated details and fine tailoring. The designs for business women reveal the street fashion in New York City and draw inspirations from the original urban power. Printing is the signature and DNA of the brand. The Fall 2022 ready-to-wear fashion show in the New York Public Library displayed the installation of Alma Allen’s sculptures and performance by PawPaw Rod. Turtlenecks, handknits, crochets, suede patchwork, and printed dresses bring back the ‘90s raves.
Elegant Holiday -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Altuzarra
Altuzarra is a luxury women's ready-to-wear and accessories collection, launched by Joseph Altuzarra in 2008. The brand is known for its silhouette with delicate curves, which accentuates designers' extraordinary understanding of female body. Joseph Altuzarra once won the CFDA/Vogue fashion foundation in 2011, and his signature exquisite tailoring was deeply loved by fashionable females on a global scale. Knotting, weaving and shibori dyeing were shown in the S/S 2022 ready-to-wear collection to present an elegant and delicate holiday.
An Ode to Youth Culture -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Coach
Coach returned to the fashion week on September 10 and released its latest S/S 2022 couture collection. Its special programme-"Coach TV: Public Access"-was broadcast live on official platform. Celebrities from Coach family, such as Jennifer Lopez, Michael B. Jordan and Kimura Mitsuki, have made a guest appearance. The S/S 2022 collection was showcased at the Pier 76 in Hudson River Park, Manhattan. Bonnie Cashin, the godmother of the Coach brand, casts a long shadow over much of current chief creative officer Stuart Vevers's work at Coach. The new collection is an ode to the youth culture, which conveys the spirit of the 80s through colorful aged filters. Attitude, energy and graphic rebuild the classics and elements of Bonnie Cashin. Exquisite inherited processes are fused with novel color blocking to express the fashion attitude of Coach. Wide shoulder lines and cuffs, lively colors and denim elements feel the retro touch and handsomeness.
Practical Streetwear -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Tory Burch
Founded in New York in 2004, Tory Burch is a luxury American lifestyle brand with a global vision. Journey and exploration have been the must-have inspiration of the brand. The S/S 2022 fashion show was held at the SoHo Mercer Street in New York on September 12. To inherit the comfortable design and salute to her originality. Claire McCardell broke the social restraint of women’s dressing style, focused on the practicality, and endowed women with the casual elegancy. Harmonious colorway and sculpture-like silver ornaments improve the gorgeousness of practical clothing; plaid and striped cotton dresses cinch the waist; stretch cotton mocknecks are worn with full cotton skirts. Two reissues of McCardell originals were also presented: a striped ankle boot and a Capezio-made ballet flat.
Oasis Party -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Ulla Johnson
The namesake fashion label ULLA JOHNSON was founded by 2000, which features complex details and exquisite tailoring. Ulla Johnson never relaxes the attention to details and the passion of natural fabrics, pretty decorations and styles. The S/S 2022 collection presented all the well-known elements of ULLA JOHNSON, including ruffle, printing, tie-dyeing and shell embroidery.
Möbius Strip -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Jonathan Simkhai
The eponymous label was founded by the designer Jonathan Simkhai, the graduate of Parsons School of Design, in 2010 in New York, which provides luxury ready-to-wear for the modern women. "No matter what, we just need to keep going, like the circle of life," the designer said. "There's ups and downs, but as long as you just keep it moving I think it's going to connect. I guess that's kind of how fashion feels in a way, too." To commemorate the anniversary of 9/11, he brought his own collection and presented a show about circle. Lines, fringes and pleats were grouped with low-saturation pale colors to express that the beginning is also the end.
Garden Blooms -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of 3.1 Phillip Lim
Phillip Lim and his partner Wen Zhou founded the label in the autumn of 2005 when they were 31, which is the inspiration of the brand name 3.1 Philip Lim. The brand is known for its neat tailoring and tight-fit effect. In S/S 2022, designer tended to use sustainable wool and regenerated polyester blends. Being titled as Garden Blooms, the collection shown no traditional floral patterns and focused more on the design of fabric and styling. Besides, new palettes were also added to present the theme.
Purity & Minimalism -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of PETER DO
The Vietnamese designer Peter Do, who once learned from Phoebe Philo and Derek Lam, won the 2014 LVMH Graduate Prize and founded the namesake label in 2018. Set in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, in an open lot next to the East River, Do's S/S 2022 collection was one of the most anticipated shows of a revived New York Fashion Week. Peter Do gave a hand-written note to each and every one of his guests. In the letter, he likened designing his new collection—the first he's showing on the runway—to making Pho with his dad as a teen."A good Pho is reduced and edited, to an essence" he wrote. Though he's been a minimalist from the start, when analyzing his early work with more experienced eyes, he decided to pare it back and cut out its excesses. The four-piece suit, which he's made a signature, now features a lighter-weight pleated skirt than in seasons past because customers had told him that there was too much fabric around the waist. Looking at photographs of his grandmother's church outfits led to an exploration of the traditional Vietnamese ao dai, which he added lapels and closures to for a side-buttoning coat. An early snapshot of his mom and dad in which his mother holds a rose inspired the rich embroideries on the finale pieces.