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2022-09-23 72087
A Strange Game -- The Runway Analysis of JW Anderson
In the middle of Soho, on the most packed London Saturday night of all, we plunged into the Vegas video gambling arcade to have our minds bent by Jonathan Anderson. The location was just next door to his JW Anderson flagship store on Wardour Street. His models made a short walk past marshals, crash barriers and hustling crowds into a place where people go for the thrill of gaming the random fates of fortune.
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2022-06-06 76305
Rewilding & Rechilding -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Stella McCartney
Spring 2023 is rooted in themes of rewilding and rechilding, made for an untamed Stella woman living freely and in harmony with nature. Stella was inspired by naturalist Miriam Rothschild and Knepp Farm in Horsham – who gave their land back to Mother Earth, allowing it to rebalance itself and restore wildlife without disturbance. Made from 85% responsible materials, it is the brand’s most sustainable collection to date.
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2022-03-17 84801
Celebrate the British Culture -- The Runway Analysis of Burberry
Based on duality and multiple perspectives, Riccardo Tisci brought a fall collection to celebrate the British culture and reconstruct identities. The conflicts between city and countryside, gorgeousness and punk broke the common definitions and reinterpreted the Britishness. Inspired by subculture uniforms, classic men’s toggle overcoat was updated by bold leather straps and trims; womenswear collection paired Harrington Jackets with boots and skirts for a avant-garde attitude.
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2022-02-24 75868
The Children of Lir -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Simone Rocha
Simone Rocha is an emerging designer brand from Britain founded in 2010. Inspired by the Irish fable The Children of Lir, the runway of A/W 22/23 collection told a story about transforming boys and girls into swans for 900 years. Creased dresses are classical and romantic. The paneling of gorgeous velvet and sheer interprets the noble temperament of court girls. Pearls and diamonds are scattered irregularly on every look.
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2021-09-23 52914
Recreate the Classic -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of VICTORIA BECKHAM
VICTORIA BECKHAM is a couture brand founded by the famous British singer and apparel designer Victoria Beckham in 2008. Neat and tight silhouette, Roland Mouret's hourglass dress, long zipper and body-fitted tailoring are the signature designs. The S/S 2022 ready-to-wear collection took its tight-fit feminine tailoring and classic designs to the extreme. Especially, the plaid pattern and shirt-style coat perfectly combine women's neatness with minimalist silhouettes to reveal the core design concept of VICTORIA BECKHAM.
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2021-09-22 72587
The Birth of Girl -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Simone Rocha
Simone Rocha is good at interlacing romance with classical, and its signature broderie anglaise, lace, tulle, and pearl create a unique romantic world for girls. Simone Rocha gathered us at the medieval church of St. Bartholomew the Great in the City of London to attend a processional show spun from the rituals and reality of bringing a baby into into the world. In this collection, nursing bra and front-open dress presented post-natal details; coats in lavender and rose-bud strewn brocade are sweet and lovely. Delicate broderie anglaise lace is decorated by jewelries to underline the gorgeous design. Gigantic white cotton collars with scalloped edges seemed like bedlinen and ecclesiastical altar-cloths or surplices all at the same time. Among the tutus were a couple of red geometric bags "shaped like drips of blood"; The red and black vinyl jackets and laced-up boots represented something darker about giving birth.
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2021-03-02 79864
Rebellious Winter Rose -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of Simone Rocha
The homonymic designer brand Simone Rocha was founded by the Chinese Irish designer in 2010. The designer is good at using embroidery and pearls to present the romantic and gorgeous vibe. Released in the parish church of St. John's Hyde Park, the theme Winter Rose interprets the Fragile Rebel of princesses. Different from the fairy sweetness of S/S collection, this season updates the sweet and cool rebellious punk style. Complex tulle, crinkles, 3D rose, handcrafted embroidery and ruffle elements are injected into the hardcore black leather jackets to send out the cool rebellious temperament of retro schoolgirls, fully presenting the boldness and avant-garde of young designer.
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2021-02-27 86073
Salute to the Coexistence of Human and Nature -- The Menswear Catwalk Analysis of Burberry
A/W 2021 Burberry collection is the first independent menswear collection since the combination of menswear and womenswear in September, 2016. The brand creativity rebuilds the Burberry flagship store on Regent Street and provides a realistic watching experience. The new theme ESCAPES praises the spirit of outdoor exploration. It is inspired by the longing for outdoor and pretty nature during the lockdown period. The collection salutes to the creativity and imagination through free expression and classic rebuilding. The tailoring design in the new season contains many playful interpretations of Burberry's classic elements. Badges and decorations are used to underline the ritual sense and symbolize the community, friendship and belongingness. Polar fleece overcoat and bionic hat brim imply the original appearance of nature. The repeated tassel hem is combined with classic pattern and print, showing the primitive feeling of Scottish nomads.
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2020-10-16 77358
IN BLOOM -- The Catwalk Analysis of Burberry Menswear
Burberry S/S 2021 fashion show is held online. As the first brand to confirm the schedule in London Fashion Week, the opening show of Burberry is successfully held in the sea, woods, music and arts. The theme of S/S 2021 is IN BLOOM. The series is inspired by a modern love story between a mermaid and a shark. Riccardo Tisci reproduces the root and essence of the brand, water. He uses unique water-proof fabrics, fuses fairy tale and marine creatures with lighthouse patterns, and brings water elements into the series.
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2020-09-27 71144
Abstract Narration -- The Catwalk Analysis of Victoria Beckham Womenswear
Influenced by this COVID-19 pandemic, Victoria Beckham S/S 2021 collection faces many difficulties like design, manufacturing and launching. Recently, Victoria Beckham posts a photo on Instagram and announces the shrinkage of styles from 45 to 20. The show is in Victoria Miro Gallery, uses works of Danish artist Tal R as the setting, and expresses what Victoria is good at, the nonchalant style combining neatness with sexiness. This online catwalk gathers no live audience, but the Beckhams show up. Continuing the modern female image, this season Victoria Beckham creates every piece of clothing based on freedom, liberation and being self. This whole collection is a reality-inspired dream, feminine, noble and resilient.
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2020-09-25 83658
Girls in Oil Paintings -- The Catwalk Analysis of Simone Rocha Womenswear
This season Simone Rocha uses fashion to construct a dreamland that allows people to escape from the harsh reality. This collection takes cues from Bettie Kline by Richard Prince and Nell Gwynn's portrait (the Mistress to King Charles II of England), and it is filled with light gauze, classical silhouettes and girly details. Although the series is displayed by static lookbook due to this COVID-19 pandemic, it presents a visual feast.
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2020-09-19 80312
IN BLOOM -- The Analysis of Burberry Womenswear Catwalk
Burberry S/S 2021 fashion show is held online. As the first brand to confirm the schedule in London Fashion Week, the opening show of Burberry is successfully held in the sea, woods, music and arts. The theme of S/S 2021 is IN BLOOM. The series is inspired by a modern love story between a mermaid and a shark. Riccardo Tisci reproduces the root and essence of the brand, water. He uses unique water-proof fabrics, fuses fairy tale and marine creatures with lighthouse patterns, and brings water elements into the series.
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2020-02-27 97557
Navigation Season -- The Catwalk Analysis of Max Mara Womenswear
Inheritance and innovation are the essence of the A/W 2020 Max Mara show. This season Ian Griffiths draws inspiration from the sailor chic. Michel Foucault says, dreams will dry up without civilization on board. As Ian Griffiths puts it at the start of the show, "This is a romantic trip that starts in Morocco and goes north to Russia". The A/W 2020 collection of Max Mara is very adventurous. The compass marked with the brand name and the sailing ship lead us to experience the charm of the winter sea.
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2020-02-22 92468
Win-win Cooperation -- The Catwalks Analysis of Womenswear of MM6 Maison Margiela × The North Face
In A/W 2020 collection of MM6 Maison Margiela, MM6 takes the so-called Paris-style clothing items inspired by New York and launched in London as the main line, hopes to convey the circulation of fashion elements without excessive retro. The signature 3D cutting and avant-garde design sense of MM6 are combined with the Expedition System of The North Face. Expedition System originated in 1990 aims at detachable and multi-layered functional clothing designed for outdoor activities in extreme weather. It is perfectly in line with the design language of MM6. And based on that, various classic styles of The North Face take on different vitality.
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2020-02-21 80568
Racing and Sailing -- The Catwalks Analysis of Tommy Hilfiger Womenswear
This season, the New York brand, Tommy Hilfiger, heads to London Fashion Week for its A/W 2020 collection. The brand keeps its vision of "vision to waste nothing and welcome all" and continues its exploration in sustainable fashion. In the A/W 2020 show, Tommy Hilfiger and Lewis Hamilton work together to create a new collection inspired by racers. More than 75% of styles are made in sustainable ways, including 100% organic cotton, recycled materials, down substitute and washed denim. The collection combines the traditional menswear of Tommy Hilfiger and the street style of Lewis Hamilton, and mixes burnt olive, neutral tones with highly saturated neon colors.
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2020-02-21 136795
Memories -- The Catwalk Analysis of Burberry Womenswear
Since Riccardo Tisci took charge of Burberry's creative director in 2018, versatility and inclusiveness have made up Burberry's current form. After Kingdom, Tempest and Evolution, Riccardo Tisci takes Memories as the theme of A/W 20/21 Burberry. Images with mirroring and perceptive connotations are secretly displayed before the show. Skin, petal, dew... The shadow created by mirror symmetry sets the keynote of this season. The "Memories" world built by Burberry is like the alternations of virtual and real spaces with overlapping dimensions in the movie, Inception. On the catwalk, twin pianists Katia and Marielle Labeque cooperate with electronic producer Arcaper to put on a bizarre duet. For Riccardo Tisci, this series is a self-recall and reflection on memory, consciousness, perception, psychology and life.
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2020-02-19 120693
The Confident Wardrobe -- The Catwalk Analysis of Victoria Beckham Womenswear
Victoria Beckham is a high-end fashion brand founded by famous British singer and fashion designer Victoria Beckham in 2008. Victoria Beckham's own fame and her steady middle-class background make her designs unique. The 20/21 A//W series is inspired by that exhausted woman are seeking peace, and creates the style of confident wardrobe. The collection records the return of the black avant-garde silhouette and exposed neckline, negative space rhomboid knitting which is first raised by Stephan Cooke (a young London menswear designer), two pieces of Shetland knitwear (one in cornflower blue, the other in yolk yellow), flares sleeves, the dress with dense and regular smocking stitch, the finely cut check shirt, the skirt with a tough silhouette, and the layered color-blocked overcoat. These all bring a confident femininity of urban office ladies.
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2020-02-11 75386
Vintage and Innovation -- The Comprehensive Analysis of London Menswear Fashion Week
Every year the London menswear fashion week is a platform for new designers from Saint Martin, and these menswear shows in different styles can largely determine the fashion trends for the next year. Especially in this year, in addition to established pioneers such as Paria Farzaneh Martine Rose, supernovae brands such as Eastwood Danso and Bethany Williams are beginning to shine, which dominate almost half of the international fashion world.
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2020-01-10 85651
Reaching The Summit at Dawn -- The Catwalk Analysis of FENG CHEN WANG Menswear
A/W 2020 collection of FENG CHEN WANG, the Chinese designer brand, was unveiled at London fashion week. The brand continues its contemporary interpretation of Chinese traditional culture. A/W 2020 is inspired by the designer Wang Fengchen's trip to her hometown, Mount Wuyi. From the opening the ink and wash to the final splendid flaming sunrise, all scenes restore the spectacular scenery at dawn during climbing, which also shows the designer's inner world.
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2020-01-07 71950
HOMO MULTIVERSALIS -- The Catwalk Analysis of Xander Zhou
XanderZhou is a personal brand created by Chinese designer Zhou Xiangyu. It newly interprets menswear through a unique perspective of visual art and outstanding tailoring. His diversified marketing philosophy has created a new business mode in China's clothing industry. At London fashion week of menswear, Xander Zhou officially unveils the A/W 2020 collection named HOMO MULTIVERSALIS. In this season, the designer shows the unknown secret, the conjecture of hyperspace and the definition of existence. He constantly asks the other self in another dimension about the concept of multi-universe and homo multiversalis.
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2019-09-25 79931
Innovation-- The Comprehensive Analysis of London Fashion Week
The S/S 2020 fashion has passed by London. There are always unexpected designs in London Fashion Week which is famous for its avant-garde design. London Fashion Week is considered as "the most British and elegant" fashion show. Each season of London Fashion Week is full of expectations. Your curiosity can be satisfied by the comfortable and practical style, the bizarre style, the modern style. And in terms of menswear for this season, Burberry fashion show is the key of London Fashion Week. Especially after the succession of Riccardo Tisci, the established brand becomes fashionable and young.
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2019-09-19 99653
Evolution-- The Analysis of Burberry Womenswear Catwalks
Burberry, starting from The Victoria Age, demonstrates the change of modern times with the theme of “Evolution” in the 2020 S/S fashion show. The mirror cube device is rising constantly after the opening, showing the retro acoustic vision and intertwining the past and the future. With the appearance of celebrities like Chen Kun, Zhou Dongyu and Huang Xuxi, 2020 S/S is in more heated discussion.
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2019-06-20 89275
The Industrial Revolution -- A-Cold-Wall
A-Cold-Wall's S/S 2020 collection is called MATERIAL STUDY FOR SOCIAL ARCHITECTURE. Designer Samuel Ross continues the industrial cold mood. Fabrics and materials include real architecture materials like clay, lead, water and glass. Rich materials, diversified industrial styles and images of construction workers are combined to update the industrial style.
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2019-06-14 89056
Immaterial -- Xander Zhou
In this show, Zhou Xiangyu combines Chinese classics with modern sci-fi symbols to interpret rituals: skirt-like garments, robe, unicorn incense burner, string beads, jade ring, pendant, talisman and Chinese characters of five elements. The ritual concept lets us re-think about traditional cultures and the balanced connection to the outside world.