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The History of Uniforms -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Neil Barrett
Fashion house Neil Barrett presented the Fall Winter 2022/23 Menswear Collection with a digital show on Monday, January 17th, as part of the ongoing Milan Fashion Week. For this season, brand explores the history of uniforms. The collection was inspired by the designer's family heritage as military tailors, but also by the different kinds of uniforms such as workwear, sportswear, the tailored suit, a uniform of evening elegance. It explores the meaning of uniforms, that express both identity and – conversely – individuality, and also bring practicality.
Il Rumore del Tempo -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of MSGM
MSGM was joined by Gaetano Pesce, the renowned architect and furniture and industrial designer, this season to release its Fall 2022 menswear collection. Giorgetti was struck by Pesce's vivid visuals, which resonate with MSGM's saturated palette, and by one of Pesce's many quotes and aphorisms. "It's about Il Rumore del Tempo (The Noise of Time)," he explained at a press appointment in MSGM's new headquarters. Giorgetti's MSGM repertoire is still largely shaped by his energetic yet gentle interpretation of streetwear. Significant elements of Pesce's aesthetic were transposed into the collection. The felted quilting of his soft-shaped armchair and trompe l'oeil prints were the inspirations.
A Path Worth Taking – The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Zegna
F/W 22/23 men’s collection was the debut after Zegna dropping “Ermenegildo” from its original name. The artistic director Alessandro Sartori drew inspirations from roads and created a new collection: ‘A Path Worth Taking’. The Zegna road originates in the mountains, and crosses Oasi Zegna, the free-access natural territory in Piedmont, Northern Italy, also known as 232. Designer explored the contemporary fashion in a gentle yet firm way. The practical, comfortable, and alternative wardrobe redefined the traditional formal wear and underlined the seamless connection between indoor and outdoor lives.
Body of Work -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of PRADA
Working with architecture name OMA, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons reimagined the Deposito of the Fondazione Prada into a stage for the exhibition of Prada‘s Fall/Winter 2022 men’s collection. Dubbed “Body of Work,” the seasonal range investigates “theater and cinema as mirrors of reality.”
Midsummer Voyage -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Giorgio Armani
Inspired by the love for the sea and sun, Giorgio Armani S/S 2022 womenswear presented a blue ocean on the backdrop. Maintaining the classic styles, Giorgio Armani integrated the fantastic colors of sunset with chiffon gown dress to exude tenderness and romance. Besides, many celebrities took photographs with the designer on the runway, which provided more topics for this collection.
The Anatomy of Silence -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Sportmax
Founded by Achille Maramotti in 1969, Sportmax is a brand which pursues fashion, freedom and avant-garde. Inspired by the musical works and theories of the post-war American avant-garde figure John Cage, S/S 2022 collection, themed 'the Anatomy of Silence', broke the limit of tradition and conveyed a creative dress attitude by corset, military decorative straps and neat silhouettes.
Retro Y2K Hottie -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of BLUMARINE
The famous Italian womenswear brand BLUMARINE was founded by Anna Molinari and Gianpaolo Tarabini in 1977. Inspired by the character Elle Woods in Legally Blonde, BLUMARINE S/S 2022 collection maintained the brand style and presented a retro fashion show once again. The young creative director Nicola Brognano has injected youthful vitality into the brand in just one year in office. The Y2K hottie style and denim ceremonial dress take us back to the millennium. Lively barbie pink and bright yellow are paired with butterflies to create a dreamland for girls.
The Day of Baseball Game -- The Womenswear Analysis of BOSS
The label Hugo Boss is divided into three lines, BOSS, HUGO and Baldessarini. BOSS is the main line of the company, which focuses on the outfits for office workers. However, a large style transformation was made in S/S 2022. BOSS put emphasis on the youthful culture and released a collaboration with Russell Athletic. Inspired by the baseball game, the runway was set at Kennedy Sport Center in Milan to fuse fashion show with sport together and revive the retro fashion. In this season, BOSS focused on a group of street teenagers to capture the passionate moments of team sport.
Picnic Party -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of MSGM
MSGM S/S 2022 runway took place in the Milan Biblioteca degli Alberi Park, which created a picnic party that brought us back to life. "Back to life, back to reality", designer presented the show by a positive summer style and acid palette. Saturated White Grape, Orange Chiffon and Pink Lemonade were really fantastic and lively. Signature ruffles were decorated in the details of shirt and jumpsuit to feel joyous and vital. Picnic blanket, fruit and little floral have been the main elements for pattern. To follow the fashion trend of being sexy, skin is bared everywhere. Cropped hoodie is paired with oversized men's suit, off-shoulder corset is combined with wide crinkled dress hem, and elastic crossed bra can be layered with printed floral sleepsuit.
Rebuild the Seduction -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of PRADA
The Spring/Summer 2022 Prada show is staged, simultaneously, in the Deposito of the Fondazione Prada, Milan and in Bund 1, Shanghai. Seduction, Stripped Down is the name Prada and Simons gave to the collection. Complex historical elements were rebuilt to be modernized and simple to interpret the embrace and subversion of sexiness. Bra cups and corset bones were fused with knitwear, outerwear and dress by modernized designs to feel solemn, sexy and harmonious; evening gown was simplified to reach a balance between seduction and minimalism; raw or distressed leather jackets and tiny duchesse satin miniskirts presented the interplay of elegancy and punk. Miuccia and Raf created a fantastic and realistic renewing process by deconstructing and regrouping daywear with gorgeous clothing.
Luxurious & Dynamic -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of N°21
N°21 is an Italian independent entry-luxury label founded by Alessandro Dell'Acqua in 2010, which perfectly combines the delicate tailoring of menswear with the Italian femininity. Especially, ceremonial elements were added into the latest S/S 2022 collection. Feather decorations and sequined fringes made the garment more charming and attractive. And the fusion of wildness and luxury was also the feature of this collection, such as, motorcycle denim jacket is paired with luxurious crystals while rough cable is layered with crystal tights to build the new luxurious and dynamic looks of N°21.
Minimalist Beauty -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Jil Sander
Known for the minimalist aesthetics and simple lines, the designer of Jil Sander gets rid of all the extra details, even zippers and buttons. Crinkled textures wrap the body, and the diagonal tailoring underlines the natural drapability. Lucie and Luke Meier had a baby girl in June, which allowed the designer to integrate the vision of wonderful future into the minimalism to express the personal emotions. Therefore, Lucie and Luke applied brighter colors and looser tailoring in S/S 2022 to pursue the pure high quality and inject the warm mood.
Spring Romance -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Alberta Ferretti
Founded in 1974, the Milan-based Alberta Ferretti represents taste, elegancy, sensibility and charm. Many international stars and celebrities have worn their master pieces on grant events and red carpets. S/S 2022 collection used butterfly to present the elegant, confident and resilient postures and exude the lightweight yet high-quality romance. Butterfly photos were printed on wrapped dress and lace slip dress, and graceful miniskirt presented impressionism paintings. Knitted lace and organza crochet created a relaxing atmosphere. The colorway of this collection began from white, black and neutrals to dazzling colorfulness to present a butterfly which had broken out of the cocoon. The draped chiffon gown dress in Scuba Blue, Bright Aqua and Purple Opulence perfectly interpreted the brand attitude.
Classic Heritage -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Max Mara
The Max Mara S/S 2022 ready-to-wear collection was inspired by the novel Bonjour Tristesse(Françoise Sagan,1954). Wearing denim shirt with a knot at waist is exactly the signature of Sagan. Griffith called it the 'Beatnik Fashion', which stimulated his luxury processes of fisherman’s workwear, cargo jacket and carpenter pants.
Fashion & Art -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Jil Sander
The Resort 2022 collection of Jil Sander was released on July 16, which told us a dialogue between fashion and art. This collection was about individuality and uniqueness of person, and "joy" is the mood it expressed. "In everything artistic there should be something functional, and it has to be at the service of the person," said Lucie Meier, "the ideas and philosophy behind the Bauhaus movement became relevant references for us." Each piece was given an individual character, in a sort of syncopated yet quite cohesive narrative. What tied the eclectic offering together was a sense of soft playfulness, smoothing the edges of sculptural silhouettes inspired by the graphic lines of Oskar Schlemmer's Triadic Ballet costumes. Undulating ruffles, fringed tassels, feathers, studwork, and statement jewelry gave grace to neat, elegant shapes. A dramatic sleeveless black-top-and-round-skirt ensemble in guipure lace, a chic strapless trapeze dress in off-white silk gazar, and a sleek pantsuit with a detachable round capelet also in silk gazar—one of the collection's main fabrics. And the slim leather overcoat was printed with a figurative motif of dancing women, painted by an illustrator friend.
BACK TO WHERE IT STARTED - -The Menswear Runway Analysis of Giorgio Armani
Giorgio Armani is relatively understated among all luxury brands in recent years, because it barely meets the needs of Gen Z, and stays away from the mainstream. However, the conservative Armani still brought us an elegant Italian aesthetic feast in S/S 2022. On Via Borgonuovo, the place where it all began, Giorgio Armani explores once again the idea of clothing that frees instead of constricting, increasingly moving away from formality and decisively embracing the informality of sportswear. This casual runway is committed to creating the images of yuppie gentlemen.
Canone Infinito -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of MSGM
Music is the must-have element for the creative director Massimo Giorgetti. The hypnotic and endless rhythm of this Canone Infinito(composed by the Italian DJ Lorenco Senni) enthralled him. Photographer Francesco Nazardo and the Milan-based image makers of No Text Azienda were involved in the production of the men's collection's video. Somehow replicating the circular melody on Senni's musical piece, the two-day shoot took place on a secluded beach in Maremma, a largely untouched, wild strip of land in Tuscany.
THE (NEW) SET -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Ermenegildo Zegna
Ermenegildo Zegna S/S 2022 collection was started with a charming film. Running in the narrow space till it comes to a vast vision, EZ's THE (NEW) SET interprets the present through the conversation between human and nature. Innovative designs provide the world with brand new styles. Zegna always subverts the tradition and brings surprise. Bold color application and fabric combination in this summer change the conventional structure of ready-to-wear and show the harmonious flexibility.
Rome's Dawn and Dusk -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Fendi
S/S 2022 FENDI menswear runway was set in the new home of the brand in Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana. From Silvia's elevated office, Fendi enjoys a dawn-til-dusk panorama of Rome's famous seven hills that's framed by the bulging Apennine mountains to the northeast and the flatness of the Tyrrhenian Sea to the west. Models are shuttling through the palazzo, and the light is changing in the city of Rome. The pale color tone echoes the spring flowers and the sky without constancy. Its accurate movements reveal the rationalism of this building.
Tunnel to Joy -- The Menswear Catwalk Analysis of PRADA
There comes an another collab collection of Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada after a year. PRADA S/S 2022 menswear collection conveys positive energy through slogans --"Tunnel to Joy" and "Urgency of Feelings". Sunshine, coastline and beach are main theme of this runway. The scenery of Sardinia reveals a sense of holiday. Walk out out of the twisted and turned red tunnels, PRADA boys step toward seaside, lie beside the rock and float on the clear sea. It is an encounter with the nature.
An Ode to Milan's Underground Nightlife -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of MSGM
The MSGM A/W 2021 womenswear collection is an ode to Milan's underground nightlife, and also to the desire for going back to dance floors. This collection is modeled on a cast of young dancers and performers. After experiencing such many impacts, MSGM is preparing for a restart and relight the bright of Milan. The creative director Massimo Giorgetti releases the A/W 2021 womenswear collection, Manifesto. It is a collective labor of love, involving Flash Art publisher Gea Politi, visual artist Alessandro Calabrese, movie director Francesco Coppola, and Club Domani's DJ Sergio Tavelli and Andrea Ratti. Together they produced a cinematic video with a spoken-word soundtrack by Politi shot in Milan's historic Teatro Manzoni.
Romantic Beauty of the Night Sky -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of Giorgio Armani
Giorgio Armani once again improves the classic styling in this A/W collection. Nocturnal is the theme of womenswear which keeps the accurate fluent lines and integrates more elegant and leisurely elements. It allows wearers not to disguise and to be themselves at ease. Influenced by the epidemic, Mr. Armani canceled the traditional runway and invited no audience. The A/W 21/22 collection was still released online through network streaming. The huge white Armani logo echoes the monochrome black square stage. And the overall dark runway environment brings the unique modern mystery. The green gorilla Uri is at the center of the whole runway, and it is the copy vision of the artwork of Marcantonio Malerba. Uri means "My flame and my light", which not only shows Mr. Armani's love for animals and nature and his intense environmental awareness, but also creates a unique oasis for the bright Milan. At the end of the show, Mr. Armani took a group photo with the green gorilla Uri, which called on people to love fashion and protect nature at the same time.
Punk and Romantic Gesture -- The Womenswear Catwalk Design of Valentino
The Valentino A/W 21/22 catwalk is launched at the reopened Piccolo Teatro Di Milano. With The Fun Is Here singing by the British singer Cosima, models are walking under the spotlight in a slow pace and start a peaceful yet gorgeous feast. Black and white is the main rhythm this season, which completely breaks through the gender border. Only using golden with monotonous black&white in the catwalk abandons the past luxurious palette and return back to the advanced texture. And the hollow-out check and dot patterns with strong visual effect underline the neutral style of the closet this season. The creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli said that,"Reopening a theater, even though only for the span of a show, is a bold, almost punk gesture." In this season, artistic cool make-ups and black&white fashion suits underline the new romanticism and free attitude of Valentino.
70th Anniversary, Return of the Queen -- The Catwalk Analysis of Max Mara
Founded by Archille Maramotti in 1951, the Italian fashion brand Max Mara is famous for its high-quality overcoat. The founder said that all he paid attention to was the wives of Italy's male professionals. And to celebrate the 70th anniversary of the brand, there were 42 looks released in this runway under the theme "1951". Combining with its historical background, Max Mara rebuilds the aesthetic essence in the last century.