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2024-02-29 12158
Retro Elegance -- The Women's Runway Analysis of Christian Dior
This season, Chiuri will feature "Miss Dior" as the theme. These words appear prominently in her 24/25 autumn/winter collection in handwritten style, but what looks like graffiti ultimately proves to be different. As she explained at the press conference, this is an enlarged version of the Christian Dior archive logo, a hand-painted advertising artwork created for the opening of the now forgotten "Miss Dior" boutique in 1967.
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2023-10-25 67856
Practical and Playful -- The Women's Runway Analysis of LOEWE
Jonathan Anderson, Creative Director of LOEWE's 2024 Spring/Summer Women's Wear Collection, adopts the design concept of "embracing randomness" and takes us into a chaotic and possible mental state through experiments, hallucinations, and sidekicks. In this process, daily clothing has undergone a subversive interpretation, presenting a bold, bizarre, and interesting side. The sparkling brooches that make up the top, the playful and vibrant star brooches, and oversized pins all showcase the creativity and ingenuity of designers. These unique elements infuse fashion with depth and texture, making it strange and interesting, like an extraordinary adventure to explore fashion elements.
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2023-03-10 89281
Subtle Sophistication -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Miu Miu
For Fall/Winter 2023, the House took to Paris Fashion Week to continue its efforts in creating it-girl bags and garments, while also putting the focus on cozy essentials elevated for the off-duty casual-chic attitude that oozes out of Miu Miu’s walls. This season, Mrs. Prada dives into the notion of “looking,” in turn uncovering what is “underneath” and addressing the “outer” layers of clothing construction, and the structure of how we dress.
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2023-03-10 77399
Camellia Motif -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Chanel
Virginie Viard has been inspired by the camellia as a signature design motif throughout the history of the Parisian fashion house for her Fall 2023 ready-to-wear collection. The presentation was an exercise in reduction, with the vast majority of looks being created in grayscale, save for a few accents of dusty rose throughout. “The camellia is more than a theme, it’s an eternal code of the House,” explained Viard on her inspiration from the flower.
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2023-03-09 69567
Black Tie -- The Runway Analysis of Valentino
Pierpaolo Piccioli is re-writing the codification of Valentino. Black tie is a dress code, a restrictive factor of attire that must be adhered to. It’s a faux pas to digress from the expected norms when required to follow the code, and it is something that is habitually ingrained in the sartorial world. With this in mind, black tie is seldom subverted, but that is exactly what Valentino has done.
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2023-03-08 69947
Deception & Mystique -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of LOEWE
Set inside the walls of a chateau, Anderson and LOEWE created their now-signature stark space and adorned it with Lara Favaretto-designed confetti squares, decorating the space in a vibrant splash of color. Trompe-l’œil came to fore right off the bat. Feathers, glittering coats, jumpers manipulated to keep an unkempt shape, trousers as booties, and a whole host of leather subsequently rounded out yet another standout show from Anderson.
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2023-03-03 64657
Futuristic Mysticism -- The Women's Runway Analysis of Acne Studios
Acne Studios transports you into a mystical world that begins in a fantasy forest featuring poisonous vines and roots. Divine flora and sparkling tree sap set the tone for an ominous showcase of the collection as models emerge from the darkness. The collection invites audiences into its futuristic world, rooted in nature and filled with the topography of a forest.
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2022-10-13 99263
Celebration, Rebirth -- The Runway Analysis of Off-White
Ibrahim Kamara was named the Image and Art Director of Off-White in April, and now he has debuted his Spring/Summer collection ‘Celebration’. The Spring Summer 2023 collection approaches the cusp of something new, where the unknown gives us the freedom to imagine boundless possibilities. A celebration of life, progress, and new work in process.
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2022-10-10 80436
Large-scale Futurism -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Louis Vuitton
Staged once again in the majestic surroundings of the Louvre in Paris, Louis Vuitton’s Spring-Summer 2023 Collection is unveiled in the museum’s Cour Carrée. For the first time, Nicolas Ghesquière has invited leading French contemporary artist Philippe Parreno and production designer James Chinlund to conceptualize the event’s spectacular set design. With metal grills, mirrors, and a myriad of lightbulbs that evoke a fairground attraction, the set is centered upon a vividly red “monster flower” with golden stamen that rise up dramatically into the Parisian sky.
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2022-10-09 72936
Unboxing Valentino -- The Runway Analysis of Valentino
Themed ‘Unboxing Valentino’, creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli ditches PP pink and returns to essence of clothing. The cutting is inspired by the sliced paintings of Lucio Fontana. Dreamy feathers, eye-catching sequins and soft sheer bring fun to the pure fashion design.
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2022-03-07 98411
Lighthearted -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Hermès
Continuing the lighthearted air, Hermès released the A/W 2022 womenswear collection. The artistic director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski drew equestrian elements from the brand DNA and injected slim-fit tailoring into the clothing design. The use of knitted fabrics allowed the restraint air to be sexy and cool. The whole collection, especially the leather treatment, still reflected the fine artisanship of Hermès. These innovative pieces on the runway expressed the personality of wearer and the unique French romance.
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2021-10-11 82927
Into a New Dimension: Life -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of VALENTINO
The designer Pierpaolo Piccioli decided to get Valentino into a new dimension: life. To mark the return of Valentino's ready-to-wear to Paris, he took over the old marketplace at the Carreau du Temple, and a row of neighboring cafés and restaurants opposite, to put on a joyful all-gendered show reunion symbolically blurring the distinctions between insiders and outsiders. The opening look, an organdy flower-embroidered blouse and tiny skirt, referred to Valentino Garavani's all-white collection of 1968—immortalized in a photograph of Marisa Berenson. There was a reproduction of a slim, tiger-striped maxi coat, famously worn by Veruschka the following year—and to end with, a pair of floaty, flower-printed dresses from the '70s. Designer pitched the production towards embracing Gen Zers with a proposition of a beautiful, casualized couture wardrobe designed to float between genders: lightweight taffeta tailoring in vivid colors, plethoras of dresses from minuscule and cutaway to sweeping, embroidered caftans. The mini-maxi proportion play—like billowy volumes teamed with micro-shorts—provided a translated house glamour that captured everything the TikTok generation might relate to.
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2021-10-08 70206
Eco-friendly Bohemia -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Chloé
Launched at the Quai de la Tournelle in Paris, S/S 2022 Chloé runway was cooperated with many charities to underline the social responsibility of the brand and the fusion of environmental protection and creativity. This show about love interpreted the free and unlimited Bohemian spirit. Chloé Craft was also officially introduced to launch more hand-made products in the future. This collection applied regenerated wool, hand-cut plant-dyed leather and soft linen. The usage ratio of lower impact material reached 58% this season. Various sewing, weaving and whipstitching techniques have been appeared. Petal-pattern crocheted dress, knotted slip dress made of strips of leftover fabric from seasons before, and whipstitched leather renew and inherit the classics.
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2021-09-30 81983
Nod to the 60s -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Christian Dior
Christian Dior S/S 2022 ready-to-wear fashion show was held in the Paris Tuileries Garden on September 28. Maria Grazia Chiuri approached Anna Pararatti to conceive the show's scenography in an absurdist spirit reflecting the universe of her various works. Pop and game have been the core of this 60's runway. The collection is structured around a network of associations as Maria Grazia Chiuri explores Marc Bohan's long tenure as Creative Director of Dior. More precisely, she highlights the Slim Look collection, presented in 1961. A-line doll dress, mini Dior suit, 60s optical white dress and tennis dress; color-blocking outerwear and dress; orange and green boxing suit; golden fringed mini dress all awaken and overpass the elegant classics of Dior.
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2021-04-14 77232
New Romantic Art of Scandi Spirit -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of Cecilie Bahnsen
Unique fabrics are hand-designed each season by founder and LVMH Prize finalist Cecilie Bahnsen, a Copenhagen native who returned to her home town to found her eponymous label in 2015 after studying at the Royal College of Art in London and working with Christian Dior, Erdem and John Galliano in Paris. Romantic and multidimensional tailoring is the brand feature. Babydoll dress and puff sleeve are the must-have elements in every season. Their extravagant puffy cuff and dress hem are fantastic and romantic. The A/W 21/22 collection The City is inspired by the open lockdown city of Denmark, combining romanticism, femininity and typical Scandi style. Handmade fabric, puff sleeve, quilting, ruffle and back ribbon are the spirit elements. Bahnsen likes to apply black and white as main tone with fairy lemon yellow, injecting eye-catching highlights into the romantic vibe. Soft knit is fused with organza and silk. This lightweight and skin-friendly style sends out the familiar Scandi vibe. Puff sleeve dress, delicate bowknot decoration, elegant wrapped tailoring and floral embroidery all present Bahnsen's ability to handle fabric and tailoring.
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2021-03-11 87036
The Fairy Tale of Women Warrior -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of Christian Dior
A/W 21/22 Christian Dior womenswear collection was released in the Hall of Mirrors at Versaille, Paris. The creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri chooses a territory where the time-space dimension is erased. Inspired by the The Bloody Chamber collection, published in 1979 by Gollancz, director explores the fairy tales and interprets the confident and fearless contemporary women image through her extraordinary perspective. Chiuri lined the hall with artworks by the Italian artist Silvia Giambrone, creating a fantastic fairy tale in the legendary Hall of Mirrors. The tale is hardly just a means of escape: it serves to challenge and revisit stereotypes and archetypes. It consists of a narrative projected into the future. The toy soldier's uniform, shimmering lamé and Lurex jacquards and evening gowns are fit for princesses. A new self-awareness, born of a feminine sensibility that knows how to blend memories of the past and maturity, as if by magic.
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2021-03-05 90195
Environmental Protection and Folklore -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of Chloé
A/W 2021 Chloé collection was launched on time in Paris Fashion Week at 8:30 p.m. on March 3(Beijing Time). It's the first collection of the new creative director Gabriela Hearst. Several trailers were released before the runway officially, the warm colors and mottled light and shade indicated the languid and thermal tonality this season. This runway show was launched through a creative short film, and models came out of the cafes on the streets of Paris with a strong sense of rhythm. The background music of the short film is produced by Juan Campodonico, the four-time-winner of the Latin Grammy Awards. On the basis of electronic sound, it integrates Latin American folk music with strong sense of rhythm and dynamic drumbeats. Models crossed the zebra crossing and came to the main catwalk, a wide slate road. Inspired by the sustainable concept, creative director Gabriela Hearst uses 30 new looks to interpret the Chloé girls with environmental duty. It is a show of environmental protection. Not only the natural runway, over 50% of silk comes from organic agriculture and over 80% of knit cashmere yarn is recyclable. Minimalist monochrome jewelry reduces the pollution of electroplating process. And the liner of handbags uses natural linen cloths.
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2020-10-31 87135
Heritage, Community and Optimism -- The Catwalk Analysis of Balmain Womenswear
Balmain S/S 2021 fashion show is held in Jardin des Plantes, paring with BGM of Blinding Lights of The Weekend to create a strongly nostalgic vibe. LG OLED seems to bring audience to the scene. This show covers three basic themes, Heritage, Community and Optimism. Olivier Rousteing, the creative director, re-explores classic 1970s patterns of Pierre Balmain. PB monogram gets crossed with each other, recreating labyrinthine gardens that Mr. Balmain loves. Moreover, symbolic shoulder pads run through the entire S/S 2021 collection, reflecting Olivier Rousteing blends traditional and creative designs to explore the brand-new chapter from 1945 to 2020.
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2020-10-27 98787
Subversion and Rebirth -- The Catwalk Analysis of Christian Dior Womenswear
This season Dior show is held at the Tuileries Garden in Paris. Maria Grazia Chiuri, the creative director of Dior womenswear, invites director Alina Marazzi to create a film for the show, paying tribute to Lucia Marcucci, a representative artist of Italian avant-garde experimental art, and the remarks and thoughts on female images expressed in her collage works. Elaborate letters reflect the significance of exploring fashion expressions in this special period. This collection has a theme of exploring the relationship between tailoring and thinking, and centers on female images of different identities in different occasions. Maria Grazia Chiuri subverts classics and reinterprets classic Dior silhouette, delivering a sense of contradiction. Designers endow thoughts with cutting, redefine silhouettes and bring a new lifestyle.
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2020-10-21 78834
Gender-Neutral Journey -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Louis Vuitton Womenswear
Louis Vuitton catwalk just ends in La Samaritaine, which also marks the end of Paris Fashion Week this year. It brings a future fashion proposition that urgently needs to be thought and solved - what potential does fashion have after removing all the boundaries of gender and function? Nicolas Ghesquière, a self-proclaimed "time conflict" enthusiast, has never stopped combining hot topics of social development with clothing in different periods. This season Louis Vuitton S/S 2021 collection spans five eras, and discusses gender non-dualization. Nicolas blurs gender boundary, displays creativity and creates a space for imagination, thus embracing the sensitive and unknown world and blending contradictory elements like the past and the future, softness and toughness, elegance and street fashion. The show makes use of a green curtain to bring audience into a vivid scene, and they can rotate 360 degrees in their own seats. Moreover, online audience see footage from Der Himmel über Berlin by Wim Wenders film in 1987, interacting with the online fashion show.
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2020-10-20 94396
French Flavor -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Paris Fashion Week
Due to this pandemic, online New York Fashion and London Fashion Week almost gain no attention. But more brands hold physical fashion shows in Milan Fashion Week. Paris Fashion Week from September 28th to October 6th seems even more unique. 84 brands join it; 18 brands including Dior, Louis Vuitton and Chanel hold physical shows; there are also 29 static shows. This time Paris Fashion Week focuses on eulogizing nature, French flavor and Chinese elements, to inspire people to get closer to nature, inherit French romanticism and rebuild confidence in future life.
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2020-10-16 78933
Cycle From Day to Night -- The Catwalk Analysis of Acne Studio Womenswear
This series blurs time and presents the endless cycle from day to night, so it inspires an experimental feature, mixes with contrasts, and displays diversified and relaxed works. This collection centers on materials which will change along with light, including crack leather, pearlescent cotton, metallic organza and pearl paper.
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2020-10-12 117353
Vintage Girls -- The Catwalk Analysis of Chanel Womenswear
Chanel 2021 S/S collection is held in Grand Palais. Its logo decorates the scene, with decorative lights to create a simple but elegant vibe. Chanel 2021 S/S collection brings us to the 1950s-1960s France, which reveals the tribute of creative director Virginie Viard to Chanel muses. Gabrielle Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld have designed many looks for actresses in their daily life or in films. Due to this pandemic, Chanel holds this show online and offline, and all audience wear masks.
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2020-09-29 79694
Timeless Thoughts -- The Catwalk Analysis of Giorgio Armani Womenswear
Although 2020 is full of changes, the classic elegant style of Giorgio Armani shows no changes. Its S/S 2021 series has a theme of Timeless Thoughts, and uses TV live for the first time on channels, the brand's social media and platform of Italy's National Fashion Chamber of Commerce. Besides, it shoots a 20-mniute Giorgio Armani documentary, and invites Pierfrancesco Favino to elaborate images, memories and classic interviews, thus interpreting its timeless style. Mr. Armani reiterates, "I like things that get old but never go out of style. They are time-tested."