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Strange Math -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton Men’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection, named Strange Math, is set on pure imagination, which is at the heart of the Maison’s ethos. It explores the relationship between imagination and reality and brings together creative minds into the ecosystem that welcomed Virgil Abloh back in 2018, and that strives for creatorship, craftsmanship and showmanship.
Utopia in Dream -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Dior Men
Two houses, joined by a garden in full bloom. Kim Jones’s models were wending their way through the greenery from Granville in Normandy on the coast of France to Charleston in Sussex in the rural south of England at the Dior Men show for summer. Pragmatism, natural elements and garden styles are mixed with the artworks of Duncan Grant to create an impressive personal collection that can reflect his spiritual world.
Colorful Daywear -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Nina Ricci
A/W 22/23 was the first collection of Nana Baehr for the brand. Tailored daywear, colorful sweater, and printed dress were the staples. The cloak design was inspired by the fashion in 1960s. Besides, two-in-one hall bucket hats and transparent handbags also enlivened this colorful collection.
Eternal Continuity -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Miu Miu
Muccia Prada took an unconventional route with an energetic soundtrack and youthful clay animation that marked the end of Paris Fashion Week with Miu Miu's show Fall/Winter 2022. In collaboration with artist duo Nathalie Djurberg and Hans Berg, the show was founded on "the animated monster in our repression and anxiety... [and] an encounter with the real other." Finding the intersection between sexy and preppy, Miu Miu silk boxers were layered under mini skirts, scrunched ribbed socks were paired with ballet flats, and there was no shortage of leather. Engulfing snow-white fur, long white ribbons tied around necks, and endless belt variations accessorized the monochrome ensembles.
Pay Homage to Tweed -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Chanel
Held in the Grand Palais Éphémère, Chanel A/W 22/23 couture was an homage to the quintessential house signature - tweed. It is said that Gabrielle Chanel would walk by the River Tweed in Scotland, where she would gather different flora and use their colors as a reference for her artisans to create fabric. The haute couture show exuded an elegant, bright, and positive mood; multi-pocket safari jacket and soft woolen outerwear interpreted masculine silhouettes; couture qualities were brought by patterns, materials, and details; leathers and jewels sent out a gorgeous retro atmosphere.
Pay Homage to the Classic -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of LANVIN
Drawing inspiration from the unlikely pairing of Art Deco and Ancient Egypt, Sialelli drew connections in design and architecture: jacquard patterns and opulent beaded embroidery spoke of the former while Jeanne Lanvin’s love of Egypt was realised via a mix of jewellery inspired by ancient art, sphinx prints and sci-fi shapes inspired by Dune that raced the sands of time.
Lighthearted -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Hermès
Continuing the lighthearted air, Hermès released the A/W 2022 womenswear collection. The artistic director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski drew equestrian elements from the brand DNA and injected slim-fit tailoring into the clothing design. The use of knitted fabrics allowed the restraint air to be sexy and cool. The whole collection, especially the leather treatment, still reflected the fine artisanship of Hermès. These innovative pieces on the runway expressed the personality of wearer and the unique French romance.
Fashion Rewilding -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Chloé
Fashion house Chloé has revealed its Autumn/Winter 2022 collection, with a environmental message of “Rewilding.” Infusing fashion with nature, the collection looks to integrate the “rewilding” approach, which is to let nature restore damaged ecosystems itself. Climate disasters like scorching deserts and melting icecaps dot the runway alongside sleek silhouettes. Accessories have been recycled or are pulled from the natural world—talismans and jewelery come with natural gemstones such as amethyst, labradorite, red jasper and rhodonite. The environmentally conscious brand boasts a 56% make-up of lower-impact materials within its ready-to-wear-collection, up 21% from the year before.
The New Normality of Noughties -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Isabel Marant
The namesake label Isabel Marant founded in 1994 is known for its thick French accent and pioneering temperament. The latest A/W 22/23 runway was a conversation between future and the past, nodding to Y2K. Pragmatism took the center stage. Overalls, bomber jackets, oversized outerwear, laid-back knitwear, and denim were the staples to awaken a new languid condition. Neon Persian prints and shiny sequins met the retro aesthetics. Stretchy velvet top was sexy and charming. The mix of knitwear and thigh-high boots has been the mainstream this season.
Code Sharing -- The Runway Analysis of OFF-WHITE
Virgil Abloh was fashion’s most frequent flyer, a multi-hyphenate creative director, DJ, architect, serial collaborator, and amplifier for the voices of the Black community. The man was not earthbound. So it makes a sort of sense that since his sudden passing last November we’ve been visited by a drone kite and runway angels. A ride on “Spaceship Earth,” as it was called. Among the passengers: Rihanna and A$AP Rocky, Idris and Sabrina Elba, Pharrell Williams and his family, the CEOs of Louis Vuitton and New Guards Group, and a who’s who of designers including Jonathan Anderson, Olivier Rousteing, Matthew Williams, Guram Gvasalia, and Jerry Lorenzo.
Wonderful Times -- The Runway Analysis of Wooyoungmi
Wooyoungmi A/W 22/23 ready-to-wear collection had been inspired by Amor Towles’s 2016 novel A Gentleman in Moscow, in which an aristocratic count finds himself under house arrest in the Hotel Metropol Moscow in 1922, and is shifted from a five-star suite to servant’s quarters. Four white doors—fire doors, the kind that snap shut with a vengeance—inset in stud walls broke up the space in Paris’s Garage Amelot, the multi-story car park venue for the Wooyoungmi show. Each time a model walked through a door and let it close sharply behind them, a tone was simulated on the soundtrack, creating a score composed of slams.
Back in 1970 -- The Runway Analysis of KENZO
It was a fashion history-making moment in Paris for Kenzo on Sunday as it unveiled the debut for its first Japanese designer since house founder Kenzo Takada. Captured aptly in the collection's title, 'REAL-TO-WEAR', Nigo managed to fuse the classic Kenzo DNA with updated silhouettes, motifs and design techniques.
Louis Dreamhouse -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton A/W 22/23 men's collection was the final collection of the late artistic director Virgil Abloh. Titled 'Louis Dreamhouse', the runway at Paris LeCarreau du Temple created an amazing visual feast and paid homage to Abloh's eight shows. Therefore, the collection was called 'The ∞th field'.
High-end Urban Sportswear -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of LACOSTE
Founded in 1933, LACOSTE has been representing for relaxation and elegancy. Being obsessed by sporty symbols and cultural observation, Louise Trotter's active designs create a high-end sports fashion. Her S/S 2022 collection was born of the habit that Louise has been biking to her office throughout 2020 and 2021. These sporty, lively silhouettes from the looks of street bikers reflected complementary people's desire for going out. LACOSTE accentuated the warm tones. Bright Poppy Red, wine red, orange, and Rattan were rather active on the street. Classic rubber tennis skirts and breathable vests all used innovative fabrics, while printed stripes presented liveliness through different colorways. Functional details are paired with sharp color conflicts. Buckled bags and sneakers with elastic ropes inject functionality and practicality into our daily lives.
Into a New Dimension: Life -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of VALENTINO
The designer Pierpaolo Piccioli decided to get Valentino into a new dimension: life. To mark the return of Valentino's ready-to-wear to Paris, he took over the old marketplace at the Carreau du Temple, and a row of neighboring cafés and restaurants opposite, to put on a joyful all-gendered show reunion symbolically blurring the distinctions between insiders and outsiders. The opening look, an organdy flower-embroidered blouse and tiny skirt, referred to Valentino Garavani's all-white collection of 1968—immortalized in a photograph of Marisa Berenson. There was a reproduction of a slim, tiger-striped maxi coat, famously worn by Veruschka the following year—and to end with, a pair of floaty, flower-printed dresses from the '70s. Designer pitched the production towards embracing Gen Zers with a proposition of a beautiful, casualized couture wardrobe designed to float between genders: lightweight taffeta tailoring in vivid colors, plethoras of dresses from minuscule and cutaway to sweeping, embroidered caftans. The mini-maxi proportion play—like billowy volumes teamed with micro-shorts—provided a translated house glamour that captured everything the TikTok generation might relate to.
Hysterical -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of LOEWE
The latest collection of LOEWE was staged at the equestrian training arena of La Garde Républicaine, a historic location in the centre of Paris. Inspired by The Deposition from the Cross, painted by the Italian Mannerist artist Jacopo Pontormo in Florence 1528, the designer Jonathan Anderson said,"Neurotic, psychedelic, and completely hysterical." of his S/S 2022 collection. He tried to break the rules of LOEWE and explored the concept of draping, sculpture and color by distortion to create a new LOEWE.
Red Carpet -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Balenciaga
Balenciaga S/S 2022 ready-to-wear collection, titled Red Carpet, was released at the Théâtre du Châtelet in Paris. The first part of the show was a photocall on a Hollywood-style red carpet. And guests wearing the new collection pause on the walkway before being ushered into a theater screening the short film The Simpsons I Balenciaga. The Simpsons for Balenciaga is the latest in a progression of activations that push certain boundaries set up between fashion and other forms of entertainment, culture and technology, shifting the brand away from an easily definable category.
The Classic in 1990s -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of CHANEL
CHANEL S/S 2022 Ready-to-Wear collection returned to the Grand Palais. The show without magnificent props put emphasis on the release of clothing. Inspired by the magic of fashion seen through the photographer's lens, the CHANEL Spring-Summer 2022 Ready-to-Wear show evokes the heightened emotions and memories of the raised runways of the 1980s surrounded by photographers and flashbulbs. Romantic with a touch of mystery, the collection balances the graphic purity of black and white, playful summer stripes, and the dark whimsy of a butterfly's wings on black chiffon. Behind the camera lens, model Vivienne Rohner plays the role of both photographer and fashion muse in cinematic black and white, for a first glimpse of the inspirations behind the collection by Virginie Viard.
A Grand Ball of Time -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton held a grand ball of time in the Louvre. The artistic director Nicolas Ghesquière continued his unique understanding of architecture and couture. The design of architectural silhouettes brought the gorgeous romanticism of the 19th century to the present. Rococo bustle and gorgeous beaded embroidery were the elements in the retro court. The combination with modern elements as mask-like sunglasses, denim and cargo pants provided us with a time journey.
Rebellious Office Worker -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Miu Miu
Founded by Miuccia Prada in 1992, MIU MIU released its S/S 2022 collection in Palais d'Iéna. Twisted white runway separated the space and exposed most part of the original architecture. Guests were sitting in ergonomic work chairs and the show treated us to a back-to-work wardrobe for the post-pandemic age. Blue shirt, sweater, khaki trousers and black belt completed the first look of this collection and brought the office atmosphere to the show. These signature office items, such as shirt, polo shirt, jacket, suit, suit dress and pencil skirt, were shown one after another. Based on the basic definition, Miuccia Prada was exploring the relationship between clothing and body. Familiar items lifted the waistline of upper body and lowered the waistline of bottoms to reveal a different body proportion and expose the midriff. Raw-edged cut hemline, white undershirt and faded sweater were casual and rebellious. Besides, the pointed head of loafers injected sharpness into the general looks.
Eco-friendly Bohemia -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Chloé
Launched at the Quai de la Tournelle in Paris, S/S 2022 Chloé runway was cooperated with many charities to underline the social responsibility of the brand and the fusion of environmental protection and creativity. This show about love interpreted the free and unlimited Bohemian spirit. Chloé Craft was also officially introduced to launch more hand-made products in the future. This collection applied regenerated wool, hand-cut plant-dyed leather and soft linen. The usage ratio of lower impact material reached 58% this season. Various sewing, weaving and whipstitching techniques have been appeared. Petal-pattern crocheted dress, knotted slip dress made of strips of leftover fabric from seasons before, and whipstitched leather renew and inherit the classics.
Nod to the 60s -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Christian Dior
Christian Dior S/S 2022 ready-to-wear fashion show was held in the Paris Tuileries Garden on September 28. Maria Grazia Chiuri approached Anna Pararatti to conceive the show's scenography in an absurdist spirit reflecting the universe of her various works. Pop and game have been the core of this 60's runway. The collection is structured around a network of associations as Maria Grazia Chiuri explores Marc Bohan's long tenure as Creative Director of Dior. More precisely, she highlights the Slim Look collection, presented in 1961. A-line doll dress, mini Dior suit, 60s optical white dress and tennis dress; color-blocking outerwear and dress; orange and green boxing suit; golden fringed mini dress all awaken and overpass the elegant classics of Dior.
Animal Instinct -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of BURBERRY
The creative director Riccardo Tisci integrated imagination into the design to bring the BURBERRY S/S 2022 womenswear collection titled Animal Instinct. The flowing modern dreamland and immersive sensory experiences fused music, clothing with femininity and interpreted new modern stories through diversified forms. Animal elements presented by curvy printing enlivened classic trench coat; voluminous fringes set off the freedom of BURBERRY; shawl-like wide sleeves increased the elegancy and vitality of classic styles.
Greetings from Antwerp--The Analysis of Dries Van Noten Menswear Runway
“Greetings from Antwerp”, Dries Van Noten’ s Spring/Summer 2022 menswear is full of emotional connection and unlimited respect for the city’s freedom and carefree fun. The team of Dries Van Noten went to 56 landmarks in Antwerp to take snapshots in three days, capturing static and dynamic images of the models wearing new items this season and the surroundings around them. Mr. Dries Van Noten said, “Through my work here I have had the pleasure of reliving Antwerp over again through the lives of the International members of my team who have come to live here with us. With this collection, we see Antwerp through the eyes and photographs of international residents of the city, members of my design team. It is always interesting to see what captivates their attention and how the city we know speaks to them.”