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French Flavor -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Paris Fashion Week
Due to this pandemic, online New York Fashion and London Fashion Week almost gain no attention. But more brands hold physical fashion shows in Milan Fashion Week. Paris Fashion Week from September 28th to October 6th seems even more unique. 84 brands join it; 18 brands including Dior, Louis Vuitton and Chanel hold physical shows; there are also 29 static shows. This time Paris Fashion Week focuses on eulogizing nature, French flavor and Chinese elements, to inspire people to get closer to nature, inherit French romanticism and rebuild confidence in future life.
Cycle From Day to Night -- The Catwalk Analysis of Acne Studio Womenswear
This series blurs time and presents the endless cycle from day to night, so it inspires an experimental feature, mixes with contrasts, and displays diversified and relaxed works. This collection centers on materials which will change along with light, including crack leather, pearlescent cotton, metallic organza and pearl paper.
Vintage Girls -- The Catwalk Analysis of Chanel Womenswear
Chanel 2021 S/S collection is held in Grand Palais. Its logo decorates the scene, with decorative lights to create a simple but elegant vibe. Chanel 2021 S/S collection brings us to the 1950s-1960s France, which reveals the tribute of creative director Virginie Viard to Chanel muses. Gabrielle Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld have designed many looks for actresses in their daily life or in films. Due to this pandemic, Chanel holds this show online and offline, and all audience wear masks.
A Season in Hope -- The Catwalk Analysis of Chloé Womenswear
Chloé S/S 2021 collection by creative director Natacha Ramsay Levi is recently unveiled at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris. With a theme of A Season in Hope, Chloé keeps moving with optimism, starts from the perspective of women to eulogize the next season full of hope and ponders over the close relation between inner world and outer world. This season it introduces slogans and visual art of Corita Kent to real designs. Soft cutting, flamboyant colors and neutral styling contain Corita Kent's ode to women and tell the lifestyle and culture behind her ideas through fashion.
Timeless Thoughts -- The Catwalk Analysis of Giorgio Armani Womenswear
Although 2020 is full of changes, the classic elegant style of Giorgio Armani shows no changes. Its S/S 2021 series has a theme of Timeless Thoughts, and uses TV live for the first time on channels, the brand's social media and platform of Italy's National Fashion Chamber of Commerce. Besides, it shoots a 20-mniute Giorgio Armani documentary, and invites Pierfrancesco Favino to elaborate images, memories and classic interviews, thus interpreting its timeless style. Mr. Armani reiterates, "I like things that get old but never go out of style. They are time-tested."
Conventional and Emerging -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Paris Menswear Fashion Week
Affected by the COVID-19 pandemic, conventional fashion shows are released in emerging forms. In the past few years, people have been talking about the innovation of fashion shows, some of which has been widely used, while others are still under conceptualization or practice. In this S/S 2021 menswear fashion week, online ways especially video become the mainstream. Besides, some bold brands also hold the fashion show offline based on limited traffic and a safe distance.
Walking in the Wheat Field -- The Catwalk Analysis of Jacquemus Menswear
With a theme of L'amour, Jacquemus S/S 2021 series is launched in a wheat field in the northwest of Paris. The series takes cues from the dance aesthetics of Swedish dancer Alexander Ekman, and uses neutrals like black, white, khaki and grass as dominant colors. It continues the lethargic Southern France feel. Simon Porte Jacquemus believes that no online video can replace the runway show, because it is the core of fashion. "Just like a reopened restaurant, life has to move on for all of us."
Balade en Méditerranée -- The Catwalk Analysis of Chanel Womenswear
Traveling has always been one of Ms. Chanel's greatest hobbies, and she left her footprints all over the world. With a theme of Balade en Méditerranée, this show is inspired by legendary actresses in the 1960s, who enjoyed vacations in Cote d 'Azur. And Chanel Resort 2021 collection is launched online. Catering to sustainability trend, Virginie Viard reuses deadstock fabrics. Those perennial sets or dresses also abandon complicated designs, depicting a neat yet charming female image.
Confidence Under The Softness -- The Catwalk Analysis of Bottega Veneta Womenswear
Known as the Italian Hermès, Bottega Veneta is confident, elegant and self-loyal. At the end of 2019, the BV team, led by new creative director Daniel Lee, sweeps the British fashion awards, making it one of the biggest shows in Milan Fashion Week. The A/W 20/21 collection of Bottega Veneta is launched in Milan. The show uses projector to reproduce the architecture of Renaissance Italian architect Andrea Palladio. The new season of Bottega Veneta is no more serious, but filled with fluorescent tones like kiwi green, creating the symbolic colors for the future. Daniel Lee uses 59 looks to show female confidence hidden in softness, present the pure self-expression, and create the intellectual urban style. The materials used in this show are reusable and recyclable. The backstage catering also uses organic foods and biodegradable tableware, and surplus food is donated to NGO, showing the sustainable and anti-waste fashion attitude.
The Anthem of Knight Girls -- The Catwalk Analysis of Chanel Womenswear
Chanel A/W 2020 show is held in Grand Palais, Paris. The show is inspired by Ms. Chanel's racehorse "Romantica" and the photo of Karl Lagerfeld in knight boots, displaying the outline of equestrian clothing. Virginie Viard loves Les Biches by Claude Chabrol (French director), and presents the charming yet tough image of females in the movie in this season. Virginie Viard rejuvenates the signature silhouette coat with the unique tailoring. The wave-like neckline and plackets are soft and romantic.
Elegance of History -- The Catwalk Analysis of LANVIN Womenswear
LANVIN A/W 2020 womenswear show is held in Manufacture des Gobelins built in the 15th century in Paris. The show with a theme of Conversation Piece draws inspirations from the 1960s. The space age, elaborate makeup and supermodels from the 1990s work together to make the show a retro party. The creative director Bruno Sialelli connects the contemporary era and the history through a time-travel dialogue with the brand's founder Jeanne Lanvin. In this season, he reinterprets the creative ideas of Jeanne Lanvin and interprets Lanvin in different voices. The new collection takes example by Jeanne Lanvin's signature lines, formal dress style and modern graphic embroidery in the 1920s and 1930s. The graceful lines of the shoulder and structural simple cutting remind of the elegance of haute couture in the middle of the 20th century.
Infinite Starry Sky -- The Catwalk Analysis of Saicai Womenswear
In the whole A/W 2020 series of Sacai, the theme of "Universe" is not only the open-and-shut starry sky. They choose four from the thousands of images provided by NASA as the inspiration, so in this season we can see the brand turns space into beautiful fashion with the deconstruction design it has always followed. Inspired by the special issue of 2015 NASA, it works with fabric designer Alexander Girard to create a star map made up of mobile phones, letters and numbers. And the lower left corner which was to mark "Alien" presents "SACAI" now. Representative deconstruction and reorganization are used. The key design is combining light silk with high-tech fabric. Different items are combined to create a new silhouette which highlights the ethereal feel. But it doesn't blindly use lightweight fabrics. Instead, it makes use of the balance of fabric combination to design.
Rose in The Dark Night -- The Catwalk Analysis of Valentino Womenswear
In this series, male and female models are in black, grey, classic Valentino red, low-key indigo and emerald. The clothing starts from basic silhouette to highlight the power of accurate cutting. Valentino, which still shows haute couture technique in the ready-to-wear series, is undoubtedly more low-key than previous seasons, but it is still meticulous about details. The series uses embroidery and print to sketch the realistic florals, adding a lively feel to the calm overcoat and the sleeveless dress.
Releasing Female Power -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Paris Fashion Week
From "leftover lady", "malechauvinist" to "sexual harassment" and "anti-domestic violence", more and more gender issues have emerged in public debate in recent years, accompanied by a feminist critique. Feminism is a series of knowledge methodology formed around the criticism of human patriarchy, and beyond the specific disciplines and research paradigms. It has become an important part of the social current of thoughts. Throughout the four fashion weeks for A/W 20/21, many brands have mentioned liberating females, female power and feminism, especially Paris Fashion Week. Christian Dior has a theme of "I SAY I" to express female power. Celine tells the story of womenswear during May 1968 events in France. Chanel puts forward the idea of liberation, and launches a series friendly to women. Valentino is the queen of the new minimalism. Miu Miu emphasizes the young lady's wear in the empire collection of the 1940s style. All of them are speaking out for women through fashionable way to show the gender mainstreaming from the perspective of gender equality under the turbulent times.
Creator of The Self -- The Catwalk Analysis of Celine Womenswear
The A/W 2020 collection of Celine still has the strong personal style of creative director Hedi Slimane. Male and female models are artistic and elegant, but with a deep rock sentiment. The whole show recreated the scene where the young bourgeois men and women strolled in the streets in the 1970s Paris. Gender ambiguity is still a hot topic in the fashion industry, and it gradually becomes a mainstream concept. Hedi said his show was unisex, where menswear can be worn by women and women's bags can be worn by men to be fit for consumers at different ages. This time he combines men's and women's fashion shows for the first time, deeply discussing the increasingly blurred gender in current fashion.
The Integration of Luxury with Sports -- The Catwalks Analysis of Off-White Womenswear
This season Off-White teams up with Arc'teryx to put on a womenswear show with a theme of "Slighty Off", creating a collection that blends luxury and sports. The collaboration of Off-white with Arc'teryx breaks the stereotype that the outdoor clothing only focuses on functionality but has no distinctive appearance, and the impression that high fashion is dominated by suits, dresses and high heels.
Girls, Move Forward! -- The Catwalk Analysis of Chloé Womenswear
In A/W 20/21 collection of Chloé, Natacha ramsa-levi, the creative director, explores the diverse female world. And she invites sculptor Marion Verboom to present sensual gold totem in the show, and musician Marianne Faithfull to read the classic literature. The iconic concrete lines from painter Rita Ackermann's works are also injected into the design of items and accessories. This season Chloe A/W 20/21 collection blends painting, sculpture and poetry into this show, adopts heather rose, dune, light brown, chestnut, dust blue and caramel, and applies paisley prints, the beaded collar and embroidery for a soft visual feel.
Female Power of "I SAY I" – The Catwalk Analysis of Christian Dior Womenswear
The A/W 2020 collection of Christian Dior keeps speaking out for women. The installation, created by "collective artist" Claire Fontaine, features a newspaper-covered floor and slogans from the late Italian art critic and feminist Carla Lonzi. A series of neon-decorated slogans in the show and the printed headbands display the independent character of modern women. The creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, draws inspirations from her girlhood diaries and integrates with Mr. Dior's beloved check elements. (Checks made up of pastel colors like milk cocoa, light green and warm grey are endowed with more creativity, elegant and nonchalant.) And tassels are prevailing in this season. Maria Grazia Chiuri continues the theme of "female power", speaks out for women, and expresses Dior's free soul of "I SAY I" with fashion.
Return of The Elegant Advanced Customization -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Paris Menswear Fashion Week
At the beginning of 2020, the novel coronavirus upsets our life. The outbreak is still there, but fashion never stops. For A/W 20/21 Paris Menswear Fashion Week, the collaboration collection of shoes with clothing decreases in this season, and is replaced by the rich and novel sophisticated looks. Street fashion style drops, and menswear tends to be retro and elegant, maybe because people are tired of the street style and tend to long for the elegant advanced customization. Many suits with exquisite cutting and meticuous fabrics emerge on the catwalk.
Heaven on Earth -- The Catwalk Analysis of Louis Vuitton Menswear
Virgil Abloh, the artistic director of Louis Vuitton menswear, unveils this season's theme of Heaven on Earth, and uses a reverse clock moving through the clouds as an invitation to the A/W 2020 menswear show. The blue sky and white clouds are scattered by traditional tools like bobbin, scissors, pencils, hammers and brushes. The huge sculptures complete the surrealism and also pay homage to the brand's traditional crafts. Although the A/W 2020 menswear of Virgil Abloh is moving away from the street style, more formal cutting and experimental prints also bring new luxury aesthetics that is quite different from previous years.
Creation -- The Catwalk Analysis of Men's Leather/Fur of Hermes
Hermès always emphasizes comfort and practicality and delivers lasting craftsmanship and brand culture through each collection. In terms of A/W 20/21 menswear, Véronique Nichanian creates a simple silhouette to make each set capable and appropriate, and the superior fabric brings a pleasing and 3D feel. The exquisite lining can also be worn outside. Compared with the bright S/S series, deep brown and dark tones are main tones of A/W 20/21. The new season of Hermès menswear is worth reference.
Across Time and Space- The Comprehensive Catwalk Data Analysis of Paris Fashion Week
Paris Fashion Week started in 1910 and has been organized by the French Fashion Council. CarrouselduLouvre and Jardindes Tu ileries were designated as the official show places. With a broad mind, Paris is a good platform for many top fashion designers to realize their dreams. Milan and London Fashion Weeks are comparatively conservative, preferring local designers over foreign ones. New York Fashion Week is too commercial. Only Paris is truly open to fashion elites worldwide. Almost every top designer from Japan, Britain and Belgium becomes world-famous through Paris. A perfect show at Paris Fashion Week is more about displaying the brand image firmly and accurately.
The Idealism under The Pink Sky- The Catwalk Analysis of Hermès Women's Leather/Fur
The S/S 2020 Hermès womenswear uses the story of "Tennis Club" to bring the new fashion to modern females. The handicraft is main in this season and leather takes a large proportion, showing Hermes's pursuit of value always surpasses the trend. The spirit Hermès expresses may be the determination in the heart. And this is recreated by the neutral style. Light and powerful organdie and leather show the tenacity and beauty of contemporary ladies.
La Belle Epoque- The Catwalk Analysis of Louis Vuitton Womenswear
Nicolas Ghesquière, the art director of Louis Vuitton womenswear, mixes the ingenious thoughts in the golden age of fashion with the S/S 2020 womenswear catwalk. The unique design language is applied to play back the La Belle Epoque of Paris. The S/S 2020 womenswear catwalk of Louis Vuitton invites many celebrities, such as the brand ambassador Alicia Vikander, its friend Zhong Chuxi and Dilraba (an actress).