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New Romantic Art of Scandi Spirit -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of Cecilie Bahnsen
Unique fabrics are hand-designed each season by founder and LVMH Prize finalist Cecilie Bahnsen, a Copenhagen native who returned to her home town to found her eponymous label in 2015 after studying at the Royal College of Art in London and working with Christian Dior, Erdem and John Galliano in Paris. Romantic and multidimensional tailoring is the brand feature. Babydoll dress and puff sleeve are the must-have elements in every season. Their extravagant puffy cuff and dress hem are fantastic and romantic. The A/W 21/22 collection The City is inspired by the open lockdown city of Denmark, combining romanticism, femininity and typical Scandi style. Handmade fabric, puff sleeve, quilting, ruffle and back ribbon are the spirit elements. Bahnsen likes to apply black and white as main tone with fairy lemon yellow, injecting eye-catching highlights into the romantic vibe. Soft knit is fused with organza and silk. This lightweight and skin-friendly style sends out the familiar Scandi vibe. Puff sleeve dress, delicate bowknot decoration, elegant wrapped tailoring and floral embroidery all present Bahnsen's ability to handle fabric and tailoring.
A Collection Blending Fantasy and Reality -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of Stella McCartney
British fashion brand Stella McCartney released its A/W 2021 collection blending fantasy and reality inside an industrial architecture. This collection embodies a collective yearning among Stella women to get dressed up and go out, inspired by D is for Desire from the McCartney A to Z Manifesto. Bold psychedelic prints, fine geometric tailoring, 3D weaving and menswear silhouette combines tradition and charm, sports and glamour, which creates suitable clothes for fashion women who want to got out with joy during the post-epidemic period.
A Journey to The Sky -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of Balmain
Balmain A/W 21/22 collection gets inspiration from the journey of the brand founder Pierre Balmain 75 years ago. And this journey is above and beyond the atmosphere. The vintage futuristic silhouette of Space Age in 1960s is combined with shiny jumpsuit, which integrates the current futurism into the past and brings the fantastic imagination. Besides, designer Oliver Rousteing also applies 70s PB Monogram to inject vintage sense into the coolness.
Feminine Power -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of Jil Sander
German fashion brand Jil Sander was officially purchased by Only the Brave on March 7,2021, joining in the groups of Diesel, Maison Margiela, Marni, Viktor&Rolf, Staff international and Brave Kid. The A/W 21/22 Jil Sander collection was presented online, and the campaign was shot in a hotel in Le Marais. Lucie and Luke Meier remain as creative directors. This collection has clinical significance that can prove our current crisis mode. Long gloves have an operable sense. And they are made of leather without liner and medical crayon, which can make people think of the current epidemic. Monochrome leather trousers use crinkles to produce the emotion of operation. Jil Sander conveys the Purism boldly through direct outerwear and dress, hand-spun dress with tassels and charming underwear dress with lace. Large and gorgeous overall silhouette of this collection hopes people to feel better, and to feel their own power and strength.
The Fairy Tale of Women Warrior -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of Christian Dior
A/W 21/22 Christian Dior womenswear collection was released in the Hall of Mirrors at Versaille, Paris. The creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri chooses a territory where the time-space dimension is erased. Inspired by the The Bloody Chamber collection, published in 1979 by Gollancz, director explores the fairy tales and interprets the confident and fearless contemporary women image through her extraordinary perspective. Chiuri lined the hall with artworks by the Italian artist Silvia Giambrone, creating a fantastic fairy tale in the legendary Hall of Mirrors. The tale is hardly just a means of escape: it serves to challenge and revisit stereotypes and archetypes. It consists of a narrative projected into the future. The toy soldier's uniform, shimmering lamé and Lurex jacquards and evening gowns are fit for princesses. A new self-awareness, born of a feminine sensibility that knows how to blend memories of the past and maturity, as if by magic.
Classical and Reality -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of Louis Vuitton
Nicolas Ghesquière's Louis Vuitton released its A/W 2021 womenswear collection officially in the Paris Fashion Week. Ghesquière made a runway of the Louvre's Denon wing, his models mingling with ancient Roman, Greek, and Etruscan sculptures to the tunes of Daft Punk's mega-hit "Around the World". The hand-drawn pictures of Italian design atelier Fornasetti become the visual inspiration of A/W 2021 collection, appearing on the suit jacket, wide overcoat, vest and A-line dress. Nicolas Ghesquière's ability to process silhouette and visual effect is fully presented in A/W 2021. The outgoing printed patterns and harmonious sculptural silhouette allow people to feel the emotion of Louis Vuitton A/W 2021."I wanted something impactful, something that conveys hope and joy for what's coming next, and for people to have a good time watching," Ghesquière said."A moment of fashion." After experiencing the long-term restraint brought by the epidemic, fashion should return to its joyous mode and prepare for the revival.
Three Acts -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of Hermes
The Hermès A/W 21/22 runway show is presented in three citys, New York, Paris and Shanghai. This Three Acts uses three distinct forms to show the fashion sequence. The first act is at Park Avenue Armory, New York, American choreographer Madeline Hollander opened the fashion show with a dance inspired by the rhythm of New York pedestrians. The second act is at the La Garde Républicaine of Paris. And the third is presented at Shanghai Maison Hermès. The Chinese choreographer Gu Jia’ni is inspired by the Eight Diagrams and uses body rhythm to present great power and passion. The womenswear collection this season expresses the desire to explore the sensibility of the new era, which breaks the thinking and habits and absorbs different cultures. The models who look like Amazon women warriors are marching with new collection, presenting mystery, power and aura. The fabrics and crinkle designs which break through the conventions echo the soft and thermal cashmere, delivering the message of self-rebuilding.
Futuristic 80s -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of Isabel Marant
The ISABEL MARANT was founded by the homonymic designer Isabel Marant in French in 1994. This A/W 21/22 collection video shot in the outskirts of Paris, along the brutalist and hyponotic volutes of an open-air building, serves as an introduction to the collection. The exalted soundtrack by Gabber Eleganza, a symbiotic combination of folk tones and techno rhythms, echoes within its concrete wall. An ode to the long-lost parties. Isabel Marant describes this collection as "the 1980s in 2030 fabrics." She uses leather, cutout, sequin and rivet with futuristic textures, colors and thin silhouette to present her own 80s futurism. She sent the portable cassette players out as her show invitations. When you pressed play, Marant's voice appeared on a tape that eventually went into the show soundtrack.
Dreamscape and Reality -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of Acne Studios
Acne Studios is a Stockholm-based fashion house with a multidisciplinary approach. Through founder and Creative Director Jonny Johansson's interest in photography, art, architecture and contemporary culture, an alternative path has been found, turning Acne Studios into a well-respected creator of ready-to-wear, magazines, furniture, books and exhibitions. The collections are defined by Jonny Johansson's signature juxtaposing design and attention to detail, with an emphasis on tailoring and an eclectic use of materials and custom-developed fabrics. A/W 21/22 womenswear collection takes Dreamscape and Reality as the blueprint. The dreamlike opening uses gentle and elegant colors. While clear monochrome black and white are shown after awaking to praise the colors of our clothes in important rituals of life. The iconic knit design and pastoral style are more delicate and elegant this season. Heavy and steady thick thread and floral patterns create the contrastive lightweight sense. Plenty of distressed fabrics and textural combinations fully present the casual feeling.
Environmental Protection and Folklore -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of Chloé
A/W 2021 Chloé collection was launched on time in Paris Fashion Week at 8:30 p.m. on March 3(Beijing Time). It's the first collection of the new creative director Gabriela Hearst. Several trailers were released before the runway officially, the warm colors and mottled light and shade indicated the languid and thermal tonality this season. This runway show was launched through a creative short film, and models came out of the cafes on the streets of Paris with a strong sense of rhythm. The background music of the short film is produced by Juan Campodonico, the four-time-winner of the Latin Grammy Awards. On the basis of electronic sound, it integrates Latin American folk music with strong sense of rhythm and dynamic drumbeats. Models crossed the zebra crossing and came to the main catwalk, a wide slate road. Inspired by the sustainable concept, creative director Gabriela Hearst uses 30 new looks to interpret the Chloé girls with environmental duty. It is a show of environmental protection. Not only the natural runway, over 50% of silk comes from organic agriculture and over 80% of knit cashmere yarn is recyclable. Minimalist monochrome jewelry reduces the pollution of electroplating process. And the liner of handbags uses natural linen cloths.
The Balance Between Street and Formal -- The Menswear Catwalk Analysis of Louis Vuitton
The Louis Vuitton A/W 21/22 collection inspires from Stranger in the Village written by James Baldwin in 1953 and brings us charming designs under the theme Art of Travel. Taking the abstract marble as the setting of catwalks, the unique design brings both street and futuristic feeling, and also the hip-hop vibe. The abstract broad silhouette, marble color application, bright check patterns and metallic colors provide inspiration to men's dressing collocation this season. The gender-free pleated dress is more like Virgil Abloh's new attempt to get Louis Vuitton out of the old conventions.
The Combination of Painting and Fashion -- The Menswear Catwalk Analysis of DIOR MEN
The men's artistic director Kim Jones invited 61-year-old Scottish artist Peter Doig this season. This show stage takes blue sky as the background, which designed by Peter Doig himself. A/W 21/22 men's collection aims to make every day a celebration. Kim Jones draws inspiration from the masculine extravagance of ceremonial garb – a living link with the past, still dynamic and alive today.
Heritage, Community and Optimism -- The Catwalk Analysis of Balmain Womenswear
Balmain S/S 2021 fashion show is held in Jardin des Plantes, paring with BGM of Blinding Lights of The Weekend to create a strongly nostalgic vibe. LG OLED seems to bring audience to the scene. This show covers three basic themes, Heritage, Community and Optimism. Olivier Rousteing, the creative director, re-explores classic 1970s patterns of Pierre Balmain. PB monogram gets crossed with each other, recreating labyrinthine gardens that Mr. Balmain loves. Moreover, symbolic shoulder pads run through the entire S/S 2021 collection, reflecting Olivier Rousteing blends traditional and creative designs to explore the brand-new chapter from 1945 to 2020.
Dreamy Gymnasium -- The Catwalk Analysis of Miu Miu Womenswear
Miuccia Prada brings worldwide female communities together in a digital space, the perfect Miu Miu club to enjoy Miu Miu S/S 2021 collection. This show and this series all come from a common language of sports and fashion, the collision of fashion and sports, the integration of virtuality and reality, and the attention to female community. Talking about the design concept of this collection, Miuccia Prada says, "Miu Miu's collection is about polarity. In today's polarized world, everything is mutually contradictory. Sportswear and evening dress, reality and dream, they are all necessary for our daily life." This season Miu Miu explores these philosophical issues and looks for answers from a unique fashion perspective.
Subversion and Rebirth -- The Catwalk Analysis of Christian Dior Womenswear
This season Dior show is held at the Tuileries Garden in Paris. Maria Grazia Chiuri, the creative director of Dior womenswear, invites director Alina Marazzi to create a film for the show, paying tribute to Lucia Marcucci, a representative artist of Italian avant-garde experimental art, and the remarks and thoughts on female images expressed in her collage works. Elaborate letters reflect the significance of exploring fashion expressions in this special period. This collection has a theme of exploring the relationship between tailoring and thinking, and centers on female images of different identities in different occasions. Maria Grazia Chiuri subverts classics and reinterprets classic Dior silhouette, delivering a sense of contradiction. Designers endow thoughts with cutting, redefine silhouettes and bring a new lifestyle.
Wanna a Water Tango? -- The Catwalks Analysis of Maison Margiela Womenswear
With a theme of Tango, this season Maison Margiela explores the interdependent relationship between people. John Galliano joins hands with photographer Nick Knight to launch a short video, S.W.A.L.K. II, which artistically presents Maison Margiela S/S 2021 Co-Ed series. It tells a South American wedding tragedy, and everyone including the bride and groom wears Maison Margiela's signature veil. From the brand's history, we know that wearing the veil is designed to get people to focus more on the clothes themselves, rather than the models. Before shooting, models were trained intensively for weeks at local dance camps. Under the moonlight in Tuscany, models dance gracefully over puddles and get captured by still photography, thus presenting the ready-to-wear collection of Maison Margiela.
Gender-Neutral Journey -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Louis Vuitton Womenswear
Louis Vuitton catwalk just ends in La Samaritaine, which also marks the end of Paris Fashion Week this year. It brings a future fashion proposition that urgently needs to be thought and solved - what potential does fashion have after removing all the boundaries of gender and function? Nicolas Ghesquière, a self-proclaimed "time conflict" enthusiast, has never stopped combining hot topics of social development with clothing in different periods. This season Louis Vuitton S/S 2021 collection spans five eras, and discusses gender non-dualization. Nicolas blurs gender boundary, displays creativity and creates a space for imagination, thus embracing the sensitive and unknown world and blending contradictory elements like the past and the future, softness and toughness, elegance and street fashion. The show makes use of a green curtain to bring audience into a vivid scene, and they can rotate 360 degrees in their own seats. Moreover, online audience see footage from Der Himmel über Berlin by Wim Wenders film in 1987, interacting with the online fashion show.
French Flavor -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Paris Fashion Week
Due to this pandemic, online New York Fashion and London Fashion Week almost gain no attention. But more brands hold physical fashion shows in Milan Fashion Week. Paris Fashion Week from September 28th to October 6th seems even more unique. 84 brands join it; 18 brands including Dior, Louis Vuitton and Chanel hold physical shows; there are also 29 static shows. This time Paris Fashion Week focuses on eulogizing nature, French flavor and Chinese elements, to inspire people to get closer to nature, inherit French romanticism and rebuild confidence in future life.
Cycle From Day to Night -- The Catwalk Analysis of Acne Studio Womenswear
This series blurs time and presents the endless cycle from day to night, so it inspires an experimental feature, mixes with contrasts, and displays diversified and relaxed works. This collection centers on materials which will change along with light, including crack leather, pearlescent cotton, metallic organza and pearl paper.
Vintage Girls -- The Catwalk Analysis of Chanel Womenswear
Chanel 2021 S/S collection is held in Grand Palais. Its logo decorates the scene, with decorative lights to create a simple but elegant vibe. Chanel 2021 S/S collection brings us to the 1950s-1960s France, which reveals the tribute of creative director Virginie Viard to Chanel muses. Gabrielle Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld have designed many looks for actresses in their daily life or in films. Due to this pandemic, Chanel holds this show online and offline, and all audience wear masks.
A Season in Hope -- The Catwalk Analysis of Chloé Womenswear
Chloé S/S 2021 collection by creative director Natacha Ramsay Levi is recently unveiled at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris. With a theme of A Season in Hope, Chloé keeps moving with optimism, starts from the perspective of women to eulogize the next season full of hope and ponders over the close relation between inner world and outer world. This season it introduces slogans and visual art of Corita Kent to real designs. Soft cutting, flamboyant colors and neutral styling contain Corita Kent's ode to women and tell the lifestyle and culture behind her ideas through fashion.
Timeless Thoughts -- The Catwalk Analysis of Giorgio Armani Womenswear
Although 2020 is full of changes, the classic elegant style of Giorgio Armani shows no changes. Its S/S 2021 series has a theme of Timeless Thoughts, and uses TV live for the first time on channels, the brand's social media and platform of Italy's National Fashion Chamber of Commerce. Besides, it shoots a 20-mniute Giorgio Armani documentary, and invites Pierfrancesco Favino to elaborate images, memories and classic interviews, thus interpreting its timeless style. Mr. Armani reiterates, "I like things that get old but never go out of style. They are time-tested."
Conventional and Emerging -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Paris Menswear Fashion Week
Affected by the COVID-19 pandemic, conventional fashion shows are released in emerging forms. In the past few years, people have been talking about the innovation of fashion shows, some of which has been widely used, while others are still under conceptualization or practice. In this S/S 2021 menswear fashion week, online ways especially video become the mainstream. Besides, some bold brands also hold the fashion show offline based on limited traffic and a safe distance.
Walking in the Wheat Field -- The Catwalk Analysis of Jacquemus Menswear
With a theme of L'amour, Jacquemus S/S 2021 series is launched in a wheat field in the northwest of Paris. The series takes cues from the dance aesthetics of Swedish dancer Alexander Ekman, and uses neutrals like black, white, khaki and grass as dominant colors. It continues the lethargic Southern France feel. Simon Porte Jacquemus believes that no online video can replace the runway show, because it is the core of fashion. "Just like a reopened restaurant, life has to move on for all of us."