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The Comprehensive Analysis of Menswear Runway(Style)
S/S 2022 runways of Fashion Week in Paris, Milan, New York, and London have been finished. Under the steady situation of epidemic, fashion weeks operated the runway in a mixed pattern: a part of brands returned to the offline fashion show, while others continued the digital show, displaying new products through live streaming and videos. And the end of fashion week will definitely lead topics among journalists, celebrities, and buyers. The eye-catching designs revealed the unique mindset of each fashion house, which inspired the trend of next season.
Pattern -- The Comprehensive Runway Analysis of Womenswear(Part Three)
This report mainly puts emphasis on the patterns of womenswear runways, and compares the proportion of each mainstream element and style in S/S 2022 and S/S 2021. Plant pattern remains the dominating position on S/S 2022 womenswear runways; folk patterns, European-style patterns, and human figures trend upward, while animal stripes and linear patterns present a decreasing trend. Notably, the wallpaper-style floral pattern is also appeared frequently on the latest runways.
The Color Analysis of Menswear Runway丨Neutrals
Broadly speaking, neutral colors are the mixtures of red, yellow and blue in different proportions. However, in a narrow sense, neutrals colors are those colorless colors(black, white, gray) and low-saturation earthy tones. In the S/S 2022 menswear fashion weeks, Almond Buff(PANTONE 14-1116 TPG), Honey Mustard(PANTONE 17-1047 TPG), Clay(PANTONE 15-1231 TPG) and Arabian Spice(PANTONE 19-1245 TPG) were the main neutral colors. We can see the perfect presentation of men's elegant and understated temperament from practical and functional clothing. Clay with high inclusiveness pays attention to the casual and elegant scent; Arabian Spice is used more on leisurely outdoor items.
Color Analysis of Menswear Runway -- Blue
Blue has already been a common tone for our daily dressing, and the denim indigo is even regarded as an all-matching basic neutral. The diversification of blues brings different dressing experiences according to its hue and saturation. Glacier Lake(PANTONE 16-4118TPG), Bonnie Blue(PANTONE 16-4134 TPG), Blithe(PANTONE 17-4336 TPG), Strong Blue(PANTONE 18-4051 TPG) and Dress Blues(PANTONE 19-4024 TPG) are selected as the representative colors for S/S 2022 menswear runways. We can see that personalized expression and mature, stable looks are tend to be the designs of brands. Strong Blue further underlines the unique fashion, while Dress Blues brings us looks with high practicality.
The Wild Millennium -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Blumarine
The Resort 2022 collection of Blumarine drew inspiration from the famous Millennium fashion icon -- Paris Hilton. The combination with the popular fashion trend on social medias created a rather vintage collection. Lively pink and fluorescent green inject a distinct individuality into the clothing. Wild animal prints on tight-fit tops are the key to express the Millennium fashion. The hip-hop placket ties of this resort take the inspiration to the climax.
Greetings from Antwerp--The Analysis of Dries Van Noten Menswear Runway
“Greetings from Antwerp”, Dries Van Noten’ s Spring/Summer 2022 menswear is full of emotional connection and unlimited respect for the city’s freedom and carefree fun. The team of Dries Van Noten went to 56 landmarks in Antwerp to take snapshots in three days, capturing static and dynamic images of the models wearing new items this season and the surroundings around them. Mr. Dries Van Noten said, “Through my work here I have had the pleasure of reliving Antwerp over again through the lives of the International members of my team who have come to live here with us. With this collection, we see Antwerp through the eyes and photographs of international residents of the city, members of my design team. It is always interesting to see what captivates their attention and how the city we know speaks to them.”
Romance & Avant-garde -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of MSGM
MSGM was founded by the Italian designer Massimo Giorgetti in 2008. Influenced by the avant-garde spirit of independent music and contemporary art, the designer has cultivated a series of unique design aesthetics. Bold colors, minimalist lines and exquisite crafts reinterpret the traditional classics of Italy. MSGM Resort 2022 collection brings us the joyous party atmosphere of 1990s. Romantic and sweet floral patterns balance feminine temperament with avant-garde girlish personality to exude a thick fantastic feel.
Natural Healing -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of AMBUSH
Escaping from city is an opportunity to heal, enjoy, and feel the nature, which is exactly the inspiration source of AMBUSH S/S 2022 collection. Although the collection was released before A/W 21/22, the designer Yoon Ahn added wasteland and vast free space into city and streets to create a new brand blueprint. Such freedom has brought variable ideas and also changed the way how AMBUSH treats its fashion collections. Inspired by highly functional fabrics, the new branch AMBUSH WKSP demonstrates the basic elements for people to move comfortably between city and countryside.
Canone Infinito -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of MSGM
Music is the must-have element for the creative director Massimo Giorgetti. The hypnotic and endless rhythm of this Canone Infinito(composed by the Italian DJ Lorenco Senni) enthralled him. Photographer Francesco Nazardo and the Milan-based image makers of No Text Azienda were involved in the production of the men's collection's video. Somehow replicating the circular melody on Senni's musical piece, the two-day shoot took place on a secluded beach in Maremma, a largely untouched, wild strip of land in Tuscany.
S/S 2022 Paris Menswear Fashion Week -- Brand Recommendation(Part Two)
S/S 2022 Paris Menswear Fashion Week was held from June 22th to 28th. Most brands still released their latest collections online. However, the pure digital fashion show has gradually transitioned into a mixed form in the post-pandemic era. The offline events absolutely promoted the attraction of this fashion week. There were 72 brands involved in the show, including some designer brands and niche brands.
S/S 2022 Paris Menswear Fashion Week -- Brand Recommendation(Part One)
S/S 2022 Paris Menswear Fashion Week was held from June 22th to 28th. Most brands still released their latest collections online. However, the pure digital fashion show has gradually transitioned into a mixed form in the post-pandemic era. The offline events absolutely promoted the attraction of this fashion week. There were 72 brands involved in the show, including Louis Vuitton, DIOR MEN, LOEWE, Yohji Yamamoto, Hermès and Lemaire. Meanwhile, the classic French fashion house Courrèges(founded in 1961) will also return with the first collection of its new creative director Nicolas Di Felice. Dior's cactus garden, Loewe's disco look and the beaches of Rick Owens and Lanvin compose the hedonistic atmosphere of 2022 spring.
The Color Analysis of Menswear Runway (Green Series)
One out of six European people lists green as the favourite color, but there are also many people who hate green. It is a color of life, vital, opportunity and hope. However, on the other hand, complex green also represents poison, misfortune and devil. Laurel Green(PANTONE 15-6313 TPG), Forest Green(PANTONE 17-0230 TPG), Sharp Green(PANTONE 13-0535 TPG) and Fir Green(PANTONE 18-0627 TPG) are the main colors of green series on S/S 2022 menswear fashion shows. We can see that this relatively darker tone has the vibe of autumn and winter. Acid Sharp Green brings positive emotions, and common Fir Green is rather versatile.
The Color Analysis of Menswear Runway (Yellow Series)
Yellow is a bright, positive and energetic color. After Pantone released a bright yellow color in the last season, enormous yellowish items have been emerged. We can see from the S/S 2022 menswear fashion weeks that Pastel Yellow(PANTONE 11-0616 TPG), Lemon Verbena(PANTONE 12-0742 TPG), Empire Yellow(PANTONE 14-0756 TPG) and Lemon Curry(PANTONE 15-0751 TPG) were the main tones of knitwear and outerwear. Pale yellow colors are soothing and healing. Bright yellow colors bring youthful vitality and naughtiness. These are the good choices for the development of summer and vacation.
Amen Break -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Louis Vuitton
The seventh collection of Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton was named after the classic song of The Winstons -- Amen Break. This mysterious, isolated and weird atmosphere creates a dystopia future, especially reflecting the historical track of Black art and culture. Except for the performance of multiple African artists and hip-pop music, the clothing of this collection also presents the unique personality. Oriental belted element, draped dress hem and athleisure baseball sportswear present intensive visual impact. These bright and eye-catching colors bring us a fashion feast.
Digital Clone -- The Catwalk Analysis of Balenciaga
The runway design of Balenciaga is extremely simple. White floor and walls do not have any embellishments. The amateur models of the past seasons are all wearing black and sitting on both sides of the runway as audience, which forms a minimalist world of black and white. S/S 2022 collection CLONES presents a series of digital clones and uses CG-scanning to realize the digital grafting. GUCCI's recognizable signatures are applied on the products of Balenciaga. Many classic GUCCI bags, including Jackie, have become the Logo of Balenciaga.
A Special Collection of Brands -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Shanghai Fashion Week
A/W 2021 Shanghai Fashion Week -- Bloom the Spring positively answers the call of government to establish an international consumption city, accelerate the collaboration between industries, help the development of Chinese brands, practice the green development concept and take the advantage of quality consumption. As a special invited media of Shanghai Fashion Week, POP Fashion explores brands and search for trendy fashion at the show.
The Dawn in The Darkness -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Womenswear Catwalks (Color)
Influenced by the epidemic, A/W 21/22 womenswear fashion week catwalks were presented in an irreversible digitalization trend. Most brands decided to release their latest collections online. According to the color data of A/W 21/22 catwalks, colorless(66.79%) still occupies the biggest proportion. Black becomes the most popular color; the application of white and gray colors decreases rapidly. Compared with A/W 20/21 and A/W 19/20, the proportions of black, khaki, red and yellow colors rise clearly this season; while the proportions of white, blue and orange colors reduce. Under the global background, black is the annual color of 2021. Except for colorless tone, khaki, red, yellow and blue colors become the most frequently used color tones in A/W 21/22.
Messy and Orderly Avant-gardism -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of Givenchy
A/W 21/22 Givenchy collection was released at Paris La Défense Arena. The ground was intentionally designed into wet water ground. Models' reflections in the water echoed the lights and presented a weird and fanciful feel. Givenchy breaks through its conventional design, and it applies street, dark and rebellious style instead of elegance. In the catwalk of this new collection, Matthew invited a lot of rappers to present his close relationship with street culture and hip-hop. The most iconic metal, functional and high-street elements are injected into Givenchy to build the distinctive luxurious and dark fashion aesthetic, which has successfully attracted the young generation. And even the world-famous Billie Eilish is his client. "In many ways, this collection is about a constant tension between two worlds." Matthew M Williams explained about his A/W 2021 collection,"We wanted to bring a sense of lived reality alongside precision, elegance and extravagance in the clothing and looks."
Intimate Romance -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of Marni
The A/W 21/22 collection of Italian luxury brand Marni is the second collection of creative director Francesco Risso during the quarantine. Francesco Risso joined Marni in 2016, renewed his contract with Marni at the end of 2020, and continued to be the creative director of brand. This collection combines diversified design elements, abundant and flexible colors and classic fashion silhouette to abandon the fixed rules, presenting the individualized sense and showing extreme romance. Marni A/W 21/22 collection is like an ode, praising the most perceptible intimate romance in the fashion process and searching for a new meaning for our daily life. The silhouette and color this season provide dramatic contrasts between light and shade and intense visual impact, expressing the pursuit of romanticism. Few days before the runway, the creative director Francesco Risson sent dinner invitations through mails and medias. He invited people to interact with Marni digitally via Zoom, the official site of Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana and Tencent China.
Britpop -- The Womenswear Catwalk Analysis of R13
R13 debuted in 2009 in the fashion world, and its creative director Chris Leba was the former vice president of Ralph Lauren. This brand is famous for its distressed retro rock T-shirt, leather pants and 90s plaid shirt with rough and punk rock individuality. The recently released A/W 2021 collection injects British plaids and animal prints into the rock style. Extravagant graffiti butterflies and rabbits are applied on the daily clothing to fully reveal the rebellious core of R13. Highlight items are collocated with oversized outerwear to underline the playful street temperament.
Classic and Recreation -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Menswear Catwalks (Pattern)
The A/W 21/22 menswear week has been over for a while. Influenced by the epidemic, this season still applied online releasing and a few real catwalks. Except for the canceling of New York Fashion Week and the combined catwalk of womenswear and menswear in London, many brands have made full use of creativity and launched their products in unreal digital forms. Paris and Milan are the two biggest areas of patterns this season, which presents practical and surprising patterns.
Possible Feelings -- The Catwalk Analysis of Prada Menswear
A/W 21/22 Prada menswear collection has been the first menswear collection since Raf Simons joined Prada and worked with Miuccia Prada. Under the theme Possible Feeling, designers explore human's body, simplified clothes structures and set body free. The layout of this Prada catwalk is just like an art exhibition, four rooms with colorful spaces. Designed by Rem Koolhaas and AMO, refined marble, resin, plaster and artificial fur are selected to be the materials. Its hardness and softness, warmth and coldness perfectly demonstrate the word Freedom. And these materials can be recycled and reused on special product installations and pop-ups around the world.
Absolute Perception -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Shanghai Kidswear Fashion Week
This season kidswear has a theme of Absolute Perception to lead us to perceive new fashion from sight, hearing and touch. The changing times prompts us to create art that is ahead of times. And kidswear also creates a new fashion era for children in S/S 2021.
Focusing on Details -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Shanghai Kidswear Fashion Week
S/S 2021 kidswear catwalks attract many international kidswear brands (BOY LONDON JUNIOR, GAP and The Children's Place), Chinese kidswear brands (Balabala, gxg.kids, MQD and COCOTREE), Chinese independent designer brands MINGCHENGZI and Little Naive, Chinese high-end gown brands PureShare and FLOWER NINE.