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Trompe L'oeil -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Y/Project
It was in the lush garden of a bourgeois high school that Glenn Martens unveiled Y/Project‘s collection, which features the brand’s signature elements, from asymmetrical tops cleverly structured by pressure plays to tank tops (and draped dresses) suspended from invisible nylon threads, to extremely large creations with sculptural and ironic shapes, between drapes, undulations and strange blisters. There are also trompe-l’oeil prints, initiated during Glenn Martens’ successful collaboration with Jean-Paul Gaultier.
New Classicism -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Versace
Presented in the cobblestone courtyard of the historic Via Gesù home of the fashion house’s founder, Gianni Versace, in Milan, the Versace Spring/Summer 2023 collection was full of color and verve. Donatella Versace dug into the archives and pulled out prints her brother Gianni created for La Scala productions in the 90s, a logo from the early 2000s or the frozen-in-lava death masks of Pompeii, all of these revisited archival motifs splashed across t-shirts, silk shirts and pants, alongside stripes, diamond-shaped cut from leather made in eco-sustainable latex and powerfully colorful python prints. The latter, now replacing exotic skins, with fluorescent accents appeared on trench coats or pants. These new eco-friendly fabrics definitely marked the brand’s entry into the era of sustainability.
Strange Math -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton Men’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection, named Strange Math, is set on pure imagination, which is at the heart of the Maison’s ethos. It explores the relationship between imagination and reality and brings together creative minds into the ecosystem that welcomed Virgil Abloh back in 2018, and that strives for creatorship, craftsmanship and showmanship.
Avant-garde Movement -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of 1017 ALYX 9SM
Matthew M. Williams invited guests to a disused swimming pool in the outskirts of Milan to present his Spring/Summer 2023 collection for 1017 ALYX 9SM. Titled “MOTION,” the runway presentation debuted a range of unisex garments in addition to buzzy footwear styles and a Nike collaboration.
Gucci Cosmogonie -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of GUCCI
For Gucci's Cosmogonie Fashion Show, creative director Alessandro Michele transported the fashion set to Castel del Monte where he presented a sparkling collection of 101 looks exploring the idea of past and present. Rooted in writer Hannah Arendt’s devoted essay on her friend and philosopher Walter Benjamin, Gucci’s Cosmogonie considers the past and how it is reflected in the present. Michele’s collection enveloped both romanticised mediaeval monikers with multi-layered pearls, starched ruffs, and heavy velvets, as well as modern fashion history – demonstrated in crimped hair and oversized sunglasses of the 80s.
Extreme Excitement -- The Comprehensive Runway Analysis of Menswear
Themed ‘Extreme Excitement’, this report provides a comprehensive analysis about the A/W 22/23 runway shows. The theme is further subdivided into four styles: High-street Chic, Universal Unisex, Avant-garde Street Fashion, and Novelty Deconstruction.
The Comprehensive Analysis of Menswear Runway(Style)
S/S 2022 runways of Fashion Week in Paris, Milan, New York, and London have been finished. Under the steady situation of epidemic, fashion weeks operated the runway in a mixed pattern: a part of brands returned to the offline fashion show, while others continued the digital show, displaying new products through live streaming and videos. And the end of fashion week will definitely lead topics among journalists, celebrities, and buyers. The eye-catching designs revealed the unique mindset of each fashion house, which inspired the trend of next season.
Color Analysis of Menswear Runway(Purple Series)
Purple is mainly used on menswear design to express the romantic tonality or street fashion attitude. Different hues and saturations can bring different dressing experiences. Orchid Hush(PANTONE 13-3805 TPG), African Violet(PANTONE 16-3520 TPG), Deep Lavender(PANTONE 18-3633 TPG), Zinfandel(PANTONE 19-1522 TPG) and Shadow Purple(PANTONE 19-3217 TPG) are the main colors for S/S 2022 menswear fashion weeks. We can see individualized expression and steady tonality from most brands. Orchid Hush better underlines the romance of men; while Shadow Purple and Deep Lavender focus on the street fashion and create positive and youthful expressions.
Color Analysis of Menswear Runway -- Blue
Blue has already been a common tone for our daily dressing, and the denim indigo is even regarded as an all-matching basic neutral. The diversification of blues brings different dressing experiences according to its hue and saturation. Glacier Lake(PANTONE 16-4118TPG), Bonnie Blue(PANTONE 16-4134 TPG), Blithe(PANTONE 17-4336 TPG), Strong Blue(PANTONE 18-4051 TPG) and Dress Blues(PANTONE 19-4024 TPG) are selected as the representative colors for S/S 2022 menswear runways. We can see that personalized expression and mature, stable looks are tend to be the designs of brands. Strong Blue further underlines the unique fashion, while Dress Blues brings us looks with high practicality.
S/S 2022 Paris Menswear Fashion Week -- Brand Recommendation(Part One)
S/S 2022 Paris Menswear Fashion Week was held from June 22th to 28th. Most brands still released their latest collections online. However, the pure digital fashion show has gradually transitioned into a mixed form in the post-pandemic era. The offline events absolutely promoted the attraction of this fashion week. There were 72 brands involved in the show, including Louis Vuitton, DIOR MEN, LOEWE, Yohji Yamamoto, Hermès and Lemaire. Meanwhile, the classic French fashion house Courrèges(founded in 1961) will also return with the first collection of its new creative director Nicolas Di Felice. Dior's cactus garden, Loewe's disco look and the beaches of Rick Owens and Lanvin compose the hedonistic atmosphere of 2022 spring.