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Focus on Placement -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Catwalk Details
Based on the data of A/W 20/21 four fashion weeks, this report analyzes different parts and placement details of clothing, explores the beauty of details and provides inspiration for extreme details.
Elegance of History -- The Catwalk Analysis of LANVIN Womenswear
LANVIN A/W 2020 womenswear show is held in Manufacture des Gobelins built in the 15th century in Paris. The show with a theme of Conversation Piece draws inspirations from the 1960s. The space age, elaborate makeup and supermodels from the 1990s work together to make the show a retro party. The creative director Bruno Sialelli connects the contemporary era and the history through a time-travel dialogue with the brand's founder Jeanne Lanvin. In this season, he reinterprets the creative ideas of Jeanne Lanvin and interprets Lanvin in different voices. The new collection takes example by Jeanne Lanvin's signature lines, formal dress style and modern graphic embroidery in the 1920s and 1930s. The graceful lines of the shoulder and structural simple cutting remind of the elegance of haute couture in the middle of the 20th century.
Exploring New Touch -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Womenswear Fabrics on Catwalks
This report concludes the runway data of more than 220 brands in the four fashion weeks of A/W 20/21, and analyzes the catwalks with fabric as the main line. Different fabrics are applied to different styles, showing different wearing effects. Based on that, this report also combines with trendy fabrics in the new season to offer more design inspirations. Because of the retro trend, jacquard grows. Leather and pearlescent satin also change boldly. Novel deconstructed fabrics, futuristic parachute protective fabrics and traditional formal wear fabrics also get innovated in this season.
Classicism and Art -- The Catwalk Analysis of Loewe Womenswear
Silhouette and fabric are key elements to create the A/W 2020 series for Jonathan Anderson, the creative director of the Spanish brand Loewe. "I analyze Spanish culture and how the world looks at it", Jonathan Anderson explains backstage after the show, "I work on how to bring classic images of Spain into people's wardrobes and I really enjoy the process of building silhouettes of clothes. Last season I worked on silhouette and fabric very successfully, so this season I decide to continue this design idea." This collection is filled with a large number of simplified prints with traditional Spanish ceramic patterns as the main part. The partial silhouette of the design is based on the retro court looks. Loewe also works with ceramic artists to create lots of ceramic decorations for the ready-to-wear of this show. These are all in line with Jonathan Anderson's understanding of Spain.
Infinite Starry Sky -- The Catwalk Analysis of Saicai Womenswear
In the whole A/W 2020 series of Sacai, the theme of "Universe" is not only the open-and-shut starry sky. They choose four from the thousands of images provided by NASA as the inspiration, so in this season we can see the brand turns space into beautiful fashion with the deconstruction design it has always followed. Inspired by the special issue of 2015 NASA, it works with fabric designer Alexander Girard to create a star map made up of mobile phones, letters and numbers. And the lower left corner which was to mark "Alien" presents "SACAI" now. Representative deconstruction and reorganization are used. The key design is combining light silk with high-tech fabric. Different items are combined to create a new silhouette which highlights the ethereal feel. But it doesn't blindly use lightweight fabrics. Instead, it makes use of the balance of fabric combination to design.
Rose in The Dark Night -- The Catwalk Analysis of Valentino Womenswear
In this series, male and female models are in black, grey, classic Valentino red, low-key indigo and emerald. The clothing starts from basic silhouette to highlight the power of accurate cutting. Valentino, which still shows haute couture technique in the ready-to-wear series, is undoubtedly more low-key than previous seasons, but it is still meticulous about details. The series uses embroidery and print to sketch the realistic florals, adding a lively feel to the calm overcoat and the sleeveless dress.
Releasing Female Power -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Paris Fashion Week
From "leftover lady", "malechauvinist" to "sexual harassment" and "anti-domestic violence", more and more gender issues have emerged in public debate in recent years, accompanied by a feminist critique. Feminism is a series of knowledge methodology formed around the criticism of human patriarchy, and beyond the specific disciplines and research paradigms. It has become an important part of the social current of thoughts. Throughout the four fashion weeks for A/W 20/21, many brands have mentioned liberating females, female power and feminism, especially Paris Fashion Week. Christian Dior has a theme of "I SAY I" to express female power. Celine tells the story of womenswear during May 1968 events in France. Chanel puts forward the idea of liberation, and launches a series friendly to women. Valentino is the queen of the new minimalism. Miu Miu emphasizes the young lady's wear in the empire collection of the 1940s style. All of them are speaking out for women through fashionable way to show the gender mainstreaming from the perspective of gender equality under the turbulent times.
Creator of The Self -- The Catwalk Analysis of Celine Womenswear
The A/W 2020 collection of Celine still has the strong personal style of creative director Hedi Slimane. Male and female models are artistic and elegant, but with a deep rock sentiment. The whole show recreated the scene where the young bourgeois men and women strolled in the streets in the 1970s Paris. Gender ambiguity is still a hot topic in the fashion industry, and it gradually becomes a mainstream concept. Hedi said his show was unisex, where menswear can be worn by women and women's bags can be worn by men to be fit for consumers at different ages. This time he combines men's and women's fashion shows for the first time, deeply discussing the increasingly blurred gender in current fashion.
Innovate The Classic -- The Comprehensive Analysis of London Fashion Week
London Fashion Week is an international fashion week for fashion buyers, the news media, and the public. London fashion week ended in February this year. And it's clear that compared to previous LFW shows, this season is a little subdued. This season's London Fashion Week advocates environmentalism and no animal fur. Chinese media, fashion buyers and stars have been forced to change their work plans because of the outbreak. However, there are still many highlights.
Autonomy -- The Catwalk Analysis of N°21 Womenswear
Founded in 2010, the 10th anniversary of N°21 and Milan have been on a journey of change and adventure. The A/W 20/21 collection of N°21 uses irregular designs to point out a more novel and freer direction for females. The minimalist and fun style gets changed in this season. Young decorations like chains and clips are applied to clothing. Lots of neutral clothing with asymmetry, deconstruction and disproportionate cutting emerges in this season. The focus is the transformed collar structure and the retro disco style dominated by sequined fabrics.
Girls, Move Forward! -- The Catwalk Analysis of Chloé Womenswear
In A/W 20/21 collection of Chloé, Natacha ramsa-levi, the creative director, explores the diverse female world. And she invites sculptor Marion Verboom to present sensual gold totem in the show, and musician Marianne Faithfull to read the classic literature. The iconic concrete lines from painter Rita Ackermann's works are also injected into the design of items and accessories. This season Chloe A/W 20/21 collection blends painting, sculpture and poetry into this show, adopts heather rose, dune, light brown, chestnut, dust blue and caramel, and applies paisley prints, the beaded collar and embroidery for a soft visual feel.
Female Power of "I SAY I" – The Catwalk Analysis of Christian Dior Womenswear
The A/W 2020 collection of Christian Dior keeps speaking out for women. The installation, created by "collective artist" Claire Fontaine, features a newspaper-covered floor and slogans from the late Italian art critic and feminist Carla Lonzi. A series of neon-decorated slogans in the show and the printed headbands display the independent character of modern women. The creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, draws inspirations from her girlhood diaries and integrates with Mr. Dior's beloved check elements. (Checks made up of pastel colors like milk cocoa, light green and warm grey are endowed with more creativity, elegant and nonchalant.) And tassels are prevailing in this season. Maria Grazia Chiuri continues the theme of "female power", speaks out for women, and expresses Dior's free soul of "I SAY I" with fashion.
Navigation Season -- The Catwalk Analysis of Max Mara Womenswear
Inheritance and innovation are the essence of the A/W 2020 Max Mara show. This season Ian Griffiths draws inspiration from the sailor chic. Michel Foucault says, dreams will dry up without civilization on board. As Ian Griffiths puts it at the start of the show, "This is a romantic trip that starts in Morocco and goes north to Russia". The A/W 2020 collection of Max Mara is very adventurous. The compass marked with the brand name and the sailing ship lead us to experience the charm of the winter sea.
Hedonist -- The Catwalk Analysis of MSGM Womenswear
Massimo Giorgetti, the artistic director of MSGM, who constantly looks for cultural inspiration from the past, is an unconventional hedonist. This time MSGM draws inspiration from horror films (Suspiria, Profondo rosso and The Cat O Nine Tails), and pays more attention to the clothing match and the application of prints. Besides, accessories also shine brightly on the catwalk. Models are carrying colorful bags, with gloves and scarves that belong to British nobility in the 1910s, which smartly applies the retro elements of the fashion industry and reflects the romantic girl style of MSGM.
A Doll's House in Fairy Tale -- The Catwalks Analysis of Gucci Womenswear
Gucci is always the most dramatic show of Milan Fashion Week. In A/W 2020, the creative director Alessandro Michele opens up the most confidential and private back stage to the public. The catwalk is like a doll house that combines carousel. The dreamlike presenting way and the gorgeous clothing collocation satisfy fans. The series uses a lot of kidswear details, seeming to satisfying kids' curiosity. Lace and velvet are used, which conforms with Belle Époque, one of S/S 2021 theme trends released by POP.
The Confident Wardrobe -- The Catwalk Analysis of Victoria Beckham Womenswear
Victoria Beckham is a high-end fashion brand founded by famous British singer and fashion designer Victoria Beckham in 2008. Victoria Beckham's own fame and her steady middle-class background make her designs unique. The 20/21 A//W series is inspired by that exhausted woman are seeking peace, and creates the style of confident wardrobe. The collection records the return of the black avant-garde silhouette and exposed neckline, negative space rhomboid knitting which is first raised by Stephan Cooke (a young London menswear designer), two pieces of Shetland knitwear (one in cornflower blue, the other in yolk yellow), flares sleeves, the dress with dense and regular smocking stitch, the finely cut check shirt, the skirt with a tough silhouette, and the layered color-blocked overcoat. These all bring a confident femininity of urban office ladies.
Escape from Reality -- The Catwalk Analysis of MICHAEL KORS Womenswear
On the last day of A/W New York Fashion Week, it is MICHAEL KORS's turn to wrap up. It transforms the American stock exchange in Manhattan into an idyllic cottage full of a modern and cozy atmosphere, leading people to travel between the city and the countryside. "Sometimes we just want to get away from the noise of the city and feel the tranquility of nature," says designer Michael Kors, "of course, we can't all move to the countryside. However, we can integrate own private time and comfortable feelings into our life through the beautiful design". This season there are many classic check and totem, lethargic cape, contrasting leather and wool, full and strong autumn tones and nonchalant outline, exuding the unique charm of MICHAEL KORS.
Natural Structure -- The Catwalk Analysis of 3.1 Phillip Lim Womenswear
In 2005, Lin Nengping and his partner, Zhou Xuanwen, were both 31 when they co-founded the brand 3.1 Phillip Lim. Initially, with the support of a surf wear company, Lin Nengping began designing his first collection. Retaining the concept of nature, the series was full of many low-key and unique items in natural colors. Environmental protection and charity are concerned topics of the brand.
Check Meeting -- The Catwalk Analysis of Monse Womenswear
Monse was founded in 2012. It upholds the minimalist style, and makes deconstruction elegant and avant-garde. Its various irregular designs are memorable. On Instagram, it draws much attention. And stars often wear clothing of this brand. Here we mainly analyze the collar design and splicing of shirts. In the new season, cutout on the collar and the design of exposing shoulder integrates straps, color-blocking, asymmetry and paper clip elements. The splicing of dress fabric is bolder, like the asymmetry of left and right, and the asymmetry from inside to outside.
Decadent Looks -- The Catwalk Analysis of VETEMENTS Womenswear
VETEMENTS is founded by Demna Gvasalia and Guram Gvasalia, a graduate of Royal Academy of Fine Arts. It witnesses the unruly street subculture. It is the benchmark of street brands and often copied by other brands. After Guram Gvasalla's departure, VETEMENTS makes a series of changes, retains its own style but begins to cooperate with other industries like Evian to keep energetic in the depressed market.