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2022-06-30 72776
Chaotic Neutral -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of We11Done
We11done’s FW22 collection is a “chaotic neutral” space where nothing is off limits, and opportunities are endless. The South Korean label’s newest show is inspired by a dichotomy between 17th century renaissance details and futuristic minimalism - two aesthetics that could be polarizing in theory, but somehow appear synchronous.
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2022-06-29 78234
Le Papier -- The Runway Analysis of Jacquemus
Jacquemus headed to the salt marshes of Aigues-Mortes in the south of France for its Fall 2022 “Le Papier” runway show. Matching the salt hills, the collection was largely dipped in shades of white and beige with subtle inserts of rust, olive green and brown. Menswear pieces took form in relaxed suiting, knitwear, technical yet minimal coats and cargo pants. Relaxed constructions have always been a hallmark of Jacquemus menswear, but this collection loosened the silhouettes a bit more. Tailoring served as a collection highlight via reconstructed blazers, asymmetrical hems and layered styling via draped skirts and puffer vests.
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2022-03-31 75620
Minimalist Daywear -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of N°21
N°21 is a womenswear brand founded by Alessandro Dell’Acqua in 2009. The brand launches a new design concept that more daywear and knitwear should be designed to be more realistic. For the A/W 22/23 ready-to-wear collection, military colors dominated overcoats, suits, dresses and skirts, while sequins, chains, coconut patterns and drawstrings ensured the highlights.
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2022-03-17 84801
Celebrate the British Culture -- The Runway Analysis of Burberry
Based on duality and multiple perspectives, Riccardo Tisci brought a fall collection to celebrate the British culture and reconstruct identities. The conflicts between city and countryside, gorgeousness and punk broke the common definitions and reinterpreted the Britishness. Inspired by subculture uniforms, classic men’s toggle overcoat was updated by bold leather straps and trims; womenswear collection paired Harrington Jackets with boots and skirts for a avant-garde attitude.
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2022-03-15 68663
Colorful Daywear -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Nina Ricci
A/W 22/23 was the first collection of Nana Baehr for the brand. Tailored daywear, colorful sweater, and printed dress were the staples. The cloak design was inspired by the fashion in 1960s. Besides, two-in-one hall bucket hats and transparent handbags also enlivened this colorful collection.
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2022-03-14 91064
The Rhythm of Color -- The Runway Analysis of Emporio Armani
Emporio Armani released the fall 2022 collection at Milano Fashion Week. Themed ‘The Rhythm of Color’, Grayish menswear and bright womenswear formed contrasts. Sheer, silk, and velvet developed cocktail dresses in bright colors. Lustrous, matted backless minidress also displayed charm. On the other stage, menswear played a symphony about grays and showed smart modernized overcoats and jackets.
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2022-03-10 93889
Eternal Continuity -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Miu Miu
Muccia Prada took an unconventional route with an energetic soundtrack and youthful clay animation that marked the end of Paris Fashion Week with Miu Miu's show Fall/Winter 2022. In collaboration with artist duo Nathalie Djurberg and Hans Berg, the show was founded on "the animated monster in our repression and anxiety... [and] an encounter with the real other." Finding the intersection between sexy and preppy, Miu Miu silk boxers were layered under mini skirts, scrunched ribbed socks were paired with ballet flats, and there was no shortage of leather. Engulfing snow-white fur, long white ribbons tied around necks, and endless belt variations accessorized the monochrome ensembles.
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2022-03-10 111230
Pay Homage to Tweed -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Chanel
Held in the Grand Palais Éphémère, Chanel A/W 22/23 couture was an homage to the quintessential house signature - tweed. It is said that Gabrielle Chanel would walk by the River Tweed in Scotland, where she would gather different flora and use their colors as a reference for her artisans to create fabric. The haute couture show exuded an elegant, bright, and positive mood; multi-pocket safari jacket and soft woolen outerwear interpreted masculine silhouettes; couture qualities were brought by patterns, materials, and details; leathers and jewels sent out a gorgeous retro atmosphere.
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2022-03-09 70631
Pay Homage to the Classic -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of LANVIN
Drawing inspiration from the unlikely pairing of Art Deco and Ancient Egypt, Sialelli drew connections in design and architecture: jacquard patterns and opulent beaded embroidery spoke of the former while Jeanne Lanvin’s love of Egypt was realised via a mix of jewellery inspired by ancient art, sphinx prints and sci-fi shapes inspired by Dune that raced the sands of time.
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2022-03-07 98436
Lighthearted -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Hermès
Continuing the lighthearted air, Hermès released the A/W 2022 womenswear collection. The artistic director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski drew equestrian elements from the brand DNA and injected slim-fit tailoring into the clothing design. The use of knitted fabrics allowed the restraint air to be sexy and cool. The whole collection, especially the leather treatment, still reflected the fine artisanship of Hermès. These innovative pieces on the runway expressed the personality of wearer and the unique French romance.
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2022-03-07 75725
Fashion Rewilding -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Chloé
Fashion house Chloé has revealed its Autumn/Winter 2022 collection, with a environmental message of “Rewilding.” Infusing fashion with nature, the collection looks to integrate the “rewilding” approach, which is to let nature restore damaged ecosystems itself. Climate disasters like scorching deserts and melting icecaps dot the runway alongside sleek silhouettes. Accessories have been recycled or are pulled from the natural world—talismans and jewelery come with natural gemstones such as amethyst, labradorite, red jasper and rhodonite. The environmentally conscious brand boasts a 56% make-up of lower-impact materials within its ready-to-wear-collection, up 21% from the year before.
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2022-03-07 66101
The New Normality of Noughties -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Isabel Marant
The namesake label Isabel Marant founded in 1994 is known for its thick French accent and pioneering temperament. The latest A/W 22/23 runway was a conversation between future and the past, nodding to Y2K. Pragmatism took the center stage. Overalls, bomber jackets, oversized outerwear, laid-back knitwear, and denim were the staples to awaken a new languid condition. Neon Persian prints and shiny sequins met the retro aesthetics. Stretchy velvet top was sexy and charming. The mix of knitwear and thigh-high boots has been the mainstream this season.
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2022-03-03 97948
Code Sharing -- The Runway Analysis of OFF-WHITE
Virgil Abloh was fashion’s most frequent flyer, a multi-hyphenate creative director, DJ, architect, serial collaborator, and amplifier for the voices of the Black community. The man was not earthbound. So it makes a sort of sense that since his sudden passing last November we’ve been visited by a drone kite and runway angels. A ride on “Spaceship Earth,” as it was called. Among the passengers: Rihanna and A$AP Rocky, Idris and Sabrina Elba, Pharrell Williams and his family, the CEOs of Louis Vuitton and New Guards Group, and a who’s who of designers including Jonathan Anderson, Olivier Rousteing, Matthew Williams, Guram Gvasalia, and Jerry Lorenzo.
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2022-03-02 75482
Modernistic Magic & Mystery -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Max Mara
Max Mara pays homage to a creative polymath whose oeuvre was overlooked for decades, and is now rediscovered. Architect, dancer, textile designer, painter and sculptor, Sophie Taeuber-Arp was that rare thing; a modernist who invested even the most everyday objects with a sense of magic and mystery. Griffiths took cues from Tauber-Arps 18th century magnum opus, The King Stag, where woodland folklore and marionette dolls shine.
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2022-02-28 84801
Balanced Minimalism -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Jil Sander
Known as ‘the Queen of Less’, Jil Sander continues the focus on developing clothes for middle and upper class women. “We were thinking about elegance,” Lucie said. “We really wanted to focus on sculptural tailoring, almost couture-like, but we like this new energy, a very cropped silhouette.” Come fall the Jil Sander woman will be wearing a wool skirt suit, its jacket sculpted with an hourglass volume and the skirt just peeking out from beneath its hem, or a slightly longer, flippier skirt with a cape-like jacket. The Meiers have made handcrafts—macramé, crochet, and the like—an essential part of their Jil Sander aesthetic.
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2022-02-25 77802
Wonderful Times -- The Runway Analysis of Wooyoungmi
Wooyoungmi A/W 22/23 ready-to-wear collection had been inspired by Amor Towles’s 2016 novel A Gentleman in Moscow, in which an aristocratic count finds himself under house arrest in the Hotel Metropol Moscow in 1922, and is shifted from a five-star suite to servant’s quarters. Four white doors—fire doors, the kind that snap shut with a vengeance—inset in stud walls broke up the space in Paris’s Garage Amelot, the multi-story car park venue for the Wooyoungmi show. Each time a model walked through a door and let it close sharply behind them, a tone was simulated on the soundtrack, creating a score composed of slams.
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2022-02-24 91185
Going Back to the Past -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Fendi
Fendi released its latest A/W 2022 womenswear collection on February 23, 2022. Kim Jones drew inspirations from seeing Delfina Delettrez in the Rome office wearing a blouse of Silvia Venturini’s from a 1986 Fendi collection by Karl Lagerfeld. He combined those references with a callback to another Lagerfeld-designed Fendi collection for spring 2000, one with a delicacy in direct opposition to the blousy proportions of the ’86 show. The graceful, rebellious, and light designs broke the classic conventions. Slip dresses, ruffled gauze tops and dresses exuded a feminine temperament and offered a lithe experience in S/S.
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2022-02-24 75868
The Children of Lir -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Simone Rocha
Simone Rocha is an emerging designer brand from Britain founded in 2010. Inspired by the Irish fable The Children of Lir, the runway of A/W 22/23 collection told a story about transforming boys and girls into swans for 900 years. Creased dresses are classical and romantic. The paneling of gorgeous velvet and sheer interprets the noble temperament of court girls. Pearls and diamonds are scattered irregularly on every look.
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2022-02-24 65955
Post-pandemic Self-expression -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Jil Sander
The creative directors of Jil Sander - Lucie and Luke Meier present collections that focus on ourselves. They provide methods and freedom for individuals to complete themselves in an appreciated way. Every piece made of fine wool and silk is the symbol of one’s own. Comfort is the keyword. Soft overcoat is combined with leather neck and contrast shearling. Diverse knitwear reflects people’s desire for warmth and comfort. The astrological sign embroidered on shirts, trench coats, and overcoats is the invitation from Lucie and Luke Meier.
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2022-02-23 65884
Self-awareness -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Jonathan Simkhai
Jonathan Simkhai launched his namesake label in 2010. Fusing women’s gracefulness with masculinity, the designer is known for powerful and charming ready-to-wear. Jonathan Simkhai presents women’s outstanding self-awareness from a feminine perspective. Ethereal fringes, sexy cutouts, wide stripes, and scale sequins are the major elements in this season.
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2022-02-23 67422
Modern Elegancy -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Gabriela Hearst
Driven by her pastoral childhood in Uruguay and design experiences in New York City, the former model Gabriela Hearst added a dignified and elegant sense into her design through natural tones. To convey a low-pace lifestyle, Gabriela Hearst put emphasis on traditional artisanship and the selection of materials. The artworks of Ana Martinez Orizondo were printed on garments. White embroidered panels and hand braiding endowed every pieces of clothing with unique meanings.
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2022-02-22 72720
Tough Women -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Peter Do
The Vietnamese designer Peter Do launched his namesake brand in New York in 2018 after winning the LVMH Prize and working for Celine. Drawing inspirations from menswear design, Peter Do’s smart silhouettes and innovative tailoring reflect his flawless techniques on fabrics. This ready-to-wear collection only used black, white, camel, and gray with architectural lines to show women’s tough power.
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2022-02-22 63115
Gen Z Mixes -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Anna Sui
Anna Sui’s mind has traditionally been a lightning rod for what young people want to wear. In the 2020s, Sui continues to look to the not-so-distant past for inspiration, but she is hitting a new stride in how she translates the obsessions of ’60s rockers, ’20s flappers, and ’90s IT Girls for Gen Z and Millennial fashion obsessives. Her fall 2022 collection is her strongest marriage of retro ideas with newly popular silhouettes yet, a decadent and delightful romp through Brit Pop, Art Deco, and New Wave, all topped off with cute animal bags inspired by a ’90s original James Coviello designed for her way back when.
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2022-02-21 73311
Modern Nomadic Tribe -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Lemaire
Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran let themselves go with the idea of “traveling somewhere.” The destination was purely imaginary, an Impressionistic landscape painted on a 30-meter backdrop by the playwright, scenographer, and theater director Philippe Quesne. It proved a strong foil for what Lemaire described backstage as a nomadic tribe. Hence a collection composed of thoughtfully layered pieces that neatly spliced ease, movement, and a sophisticated take on functionality. Softly tailored outerwear in the form of a tobacco trench, a coat that can be worn like a blouson or a gilet, a black overcoat with a white lapel and lining, and an elevated take on the denim jacket looked like they could walk straight off the runway and into the streets of Paris. A blouse with a red marbled print, designed by the theartisan Frédérique Pelletier, brought a bit of psychedelia to a lineup focused on elevated effortlessness.