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2022-06-30 72755
Chaotic Neutral -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of We11Done
We11done’s FW22 collection is a “chaotic neutral” space where nothing is off limits, and opportunities are endless. The South Korean label’s newest show is inspired by a dichotomy between 17th century renaissance details and futuristic minimalism - two aesthetics that could be polarizing in theory, but somehow appear synchronous.
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2022-06-29 78234
Le Papier -- The Runway Analysis of Jacquemus
Jacquemus headed to the salt marshes of Aigues-Mortes in the south of France for its Fall 2022 “Le Papier” runway show. Matching the salt hills, the collection was largely dipped in shades of white and beige with subtle inserts of rust, olive green and brown. Menswear pieces took form in relaxed suiting, knitwear, technical yet minimal coats and cargo pants. Relaxed constructions have always been a hallmark of Jacquemus menswear, but this collection loosened the silhouettes a bit more. Tailoring served as a collection highlight via reconstructed blazers, asymmetrical hems and layered styling via draped skirts and puffer vests.
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2022-03-15 68663
Colorful Daywear -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Nina Ricci
A/W 22/23 was the first collection of Nana Baehr for the brand. Tailored daywear, colorful sweater, and printed dress were the staples. The cloak design was inspired by the fashion in 1960s. Besides, two-in-one hall bucket hats and transparent handbags also enlivened this colorful collection.
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2022-03-10 93861
Eternal Continuity -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Miu Miu
Muccia Prada took an unconventional route with an energetic soundtrack and youthful clay animation that marked the end of Paris Fashion Week with Miu Miu's show Fall/Winter 2022. In collaboration with artist duo Nathalie Djurberg and Hans Berg, the show was founded on "the animated monster in our repression and anxiety... [and] an encounter with the real other." Finding the intersection between sexy and preppy, Miu Miu silk boxers were layered under mini skirts, scrunched ribbed socks were paired with ballet flats, and there was no shortage of leather. Engulfing snow-white fur, long white ribbons tied around necks, and endless belt variations accessorized the monochrome ensembles.
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2022-03-10 111230
Pay Homage to Tweed -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Chanel
Held in the Grand Palais Éphémère, Chanel A/W 22/23 couture was an homage to the quintessential house signature - tweed. It is said that Gabrielle Chanel would walk by the River Tweed in Scotland, where she would gather different flora and use their colors as a reference for her artisans to create fabric. The haute couture show exuded an elegant, bright, and positive mood; multi-pocket safari jacket and soft woolen outerwear interpreted masculine silhouettes; couture qualities were brought by patterns, materials, and details; leathers and jewels sent out a gorgeous retro atmosphere.
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2022-03-09 70631
Pay Homage to the Classic -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of LANVIN
Drawing inspiration from the unlikely pairing of Art Deco and Ancient Egypt, Sialelli drew connections in design and architecture: jacquard patterns and opulent beaded embroidery spoke of the former while Jeanne Lanvin’s love of Egypt was realised via a mix of jewellery inspired by ancient art, sphinx prints and sci-fi shapes inspired by Dune that raced the sands of time.
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2022-03-07 98436
Lighthearted -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Hermès
Continuing the lighthearted air, Hermès released the A/W 2022 womenswear collection. The artistic director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski drew equestrian elements from the brand DNA and injected slim-fit tailoring into the clothing design. The use of knitted fabrics allowed the restraint air to be sexy and cool. The whole collection, especially the leather treatment, still reflected the fine artisanship of Hermès. These innovative pieces on the runway expressed the personality of wearer and the unique French romance.
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2022-03-07 75725
Fashion Rewilding -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Chloé
Fashion house Chloé has revealed its Autumn/Winter 2022 collection, with a environmental message of “Rewilding.” Infusing fashion with nature, the collection looks to integrate the “rewilding” approach, which is to let nature restore damaged ecosystems itself. Climate disasters like scorching deserts and melting icecaps dot the runway alongside sleek silhouettes. Accessories have been recycled or are pulled from the natural world—talismans and jewelery come with natural gemstones such as amethyst, labradorite, red jasper and rhodonite. The environmentally conscious brand boasts a 56% make-up of lower-impact materials within its ready-to-wear-collection, up 21% from the year before.
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2022-03-07 66101
The New Normality of Noughties -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Isabel Marant
The namesake label Isabel Marant founded in 1994 is known for its thick French accent and pioneering temperament. The latest A/W 22/23 runway was a conversation between future and the past, nodding to Y2K. Pragmatism took the center stage. Overalls, bomber jackets, oversized outerwear, laid-back knitwear, and denim were the staples to awaken a new languid condition. Neon Persian prints and shiny sequins met the retro aesthetics. Stretchy velvet top was sexy and charming. The mix of knitwear and thigh-high boots has been the mainstream this season.
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2022-03-03 97948
Code Sharing -- The Runway Analysis of OFF-WHITE
Virgil Abloh was fashion’s most frequent flyer, a multi-hyphenate creative director, DJ, architect, serial collaborator, and amplifier for the voices of the Black community. The man was not earthbound. So it makes a sort of sense that since his sudden passing last November we’ve been visited by a drone kite and runway angels. A ride on “Spaceship Earth,” as it was called. Among the passengers: Rihanna and A$AP Rocky, Idris and Sabrina Elba, Pharrell Williams and his family, the CEOs of Louis Vuitton and New Guards Group, and a who’s who of designers including Jonathan Anderson, Olivier Rousteing, Matthew Williams, Guram Gvasalia, and Jerry Lorenzo.
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2022-02-25 77802
Wonderful Times -- The Runway Analysis of Wooyoungmi
Wooyoungmi A/W 22/23 ready-to-wear collection had been inspired by Amor Towles’s 2016 novel A Gentleman in Moscow, in which an aristocratic count finds himself under house arrest in the Hotel Metropol Moscow in 1922, and is shifted from a five-star suite to servant’s quarters. Four white doors—fire doors, the kind that snap shut with a vengeance—inset in stud walls broke up the space in Paris’s Garage Amelot, the multi-story car park venue for the Wooyoungmi show. Each time a model walked through a door and let it close sharply behind them, a tone was simulated on the soundtrack, creating a score composed of slams.
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2022-02-24 65932
Post-pandemic Self-expression -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Jil Sander
The creative directors of Jil Sander - Lucie and Luke Meier present collections that focus on ourselves. They provide methods and freedom for individuals to complete themselves in an appreciated way. Every piece made of fine wool and silk is the symbol of one’s own. Comfort is the keyword. Soft overcoat is combined with leather neck and contrast shearling. Diverse knitwear reflects people’s desire for warmth and comfort. The astrological sign embroidered on shirts, trench coats, and overcoats is the invitation from Lucie and Luke Meier.
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2022-01-25 123541
Back in 1970 -- The Runway Analysis of KENZO
It was a fashion history-making moment in Paris for Kenzo on Sunday as it unveiled the debut for its first Japanese designer since house founder Kenzo Takada. Captured aptly in the collection's title, 'REAL-TO-WEAR', Nigo managed to fuse the classic Kenzo DNA with updated silhouettes, motifs and design techniques.
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2022-01-22 77205
Louis Dreamhouse -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton A/W 22/23 men's collection was the final collection of the late artistic director Virgil Abloh. Titled 'Louis Dreamhouse', the runway at Paris LeCarreau du Temple created an amazing visual feast and paid homage to Abloh's eight shows. Therefore, the collection was called 'The ∞th field'.