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Anti Fashion -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Sacai
For Sacai Spring 2023 collection, the designer and founder Chitose Abe renewed her signature deconstruction and played with traditional silhouettes and materials with an informal attitude. The tailored fabrics from Loro Piana developed tight-fit dresses and all-in-ones. Womenswear was joined by sheer liners. The corsetry details paid homage to the brand heritage. As an important design language of Sacai, crinkles were designed to be daring and multi-dimensional. Graffiti master Eric Haze brought slogans such as ‘One Kind Word’ and ‘As One’ to deliver the spirit of unity and friendship.
Boyhood of Music -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton has unveiled its new Pre-Spring 2023 menswear collection that channels the creative vision of the late Virgil Abloh. The new Louis Vuitton creative team brought to life his vision of exploring boyhood through music. By looking at one’s musical journey, the new collection explores the mirrored evolution of wardrobe and how it dances with elements of past, present and future. Captured at the Centre National de la Danse in Paris, the new collection is organized into two chapters.
Dark Goth Surfers -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Dsquared2
The Catens’ penchant for clubbing and partying is well known—in pre-Covid days dancing all night was surely among their favorite pastimes. Now they’re more focused on healthy activities, like strenuous exercise and running along the beach of their Cyprus home. And obviously they’re into surfing, the coolest sport there is, which the Catens see tinged with undertones of danger. They designed their resort collection to provide Dsquared2 customers with plenty of options, seamlessly crossing the line between wild nights spent under disco balls and dawns riding the waves. They called the lineup Dark Goth Surfers.
Gucci Cosmogonie -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of GUCCI
For Gucci's Cosmogonie Fashion Show, creative director Alessandro Michele transported the fashion set to Castel del Monte where he presented a sparkling collection of 101 looks exploring the idea of past and present. Rooted in writer Hannah Arendt’s devoted essay on her friend and philosopher Walter Benjamin, Gucci’s Cosmogonie considers the past and how it is reflected in the present. Michele’s collection enveloped both romanticised mediaeval monikers with multi-layered pearls, starched ruffs, and heavy velvets, as well as modern fashion history – demonstrated in crimped hair and oversized sunglasses of the 80s.
Rewilding & Rechilding -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Stella McCartney
Spring 2023 is rooted in themes of rewilding and rechilding, made for an untamed Stella woman living freely and in harmony with nature. Stella was inspired by naturalist Miriam Rothschild and Knepp Farm in Horsham – who gave their land back to Mother Earth, allowing it to rebalance itself and restore wildlife without disturbance. Made from 85% responsible materials, it is the brand’s most sustainable collection to date.
Beach Journey -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of CHANEL
From Paris to the Riviera, CHANEL heads to Monte-Carlo for the Cruise 2022/23 collection by Virginie Viard. Inspired by the cosmopolitan beach lifestyle of Monaco and CHANEL’s history along the Côte d’Azur, a first glimpse at the collection reveals silhouettes with an abundance of black and white swimsuits, glamorous sequins, and ensembles in breezy crochet.
California Couture -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of DIOR MEN
For Spring 2023, Jones continues in that vein by teaming up with ERL’s Eli Russell Linnetz for a new capsule collection titled “California Couture.” Presented as a first-ever guest-designed collaboration between Jones and Linnetz, the capsule was shown in California’s Venice Beach, which is a first-time location setting for the brand. The runway comprised a fleet of ERL x Dior clad models dressed in vibrant pastel satin suits, quilted puffer jackets, Christmas-colored tinsel tops and cozy half-zip pullovers.
Modern Warrior Woman -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Louis Vuitton
Boasting a dazzling interplay of texture and light and a visionary furthering of creative director Nicolas Ghesquière’s mingling of past, present, and future, Louis Vuitton‘s Cruise 2023 show was a brilliant dialogue between the designer’s craft and the location he selected to show it: the courtyard of San Diego’s Salk Institute for Biological Studies, a visionary complex designed by architect Louis Kahn in the early 60’s. Multi-piece wraps recalled Ancient Greek tunics or the garb of Amazon warriors, while metallic scales updated medieval armor for the modern warrior woman. High-shine leathers and metallic denims were stitched with embroidery that oxidizes and changes color with time. Laser-cut, gladiator-like skirts danced and shimmered in the sun along with their wearers steps.