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Focus on Placement -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Catwalk Details
Based on the data of A/W 20/21 four fashion weeks, this report analyzes different parts and placement details of clothing, explores the beauty of details and provides inspiration for extreme details.
Classicism and Art -- The Catwalk Analysis of Loewe Womenswear
Silhouette and fabric are key elements to create the A/W 2020 series for Jonathan Anderson, the creative director of the Spanish brand Loewe. "I analyze Spanish culture and how the world looks at it", Jonathan Anderson explains backstage after the show, "I work on how to bring classic images of Spain into people's wardrobes and I really enjoy the process of building silhouettes of clothes. Last season I worked on silhouette and fabric very successfully, so this season I decide to continue this design idea." This collection is filled with a large number of simplified prints with traditional Spanish ceramic patterns as the main part. The partial silhouette of the design is based on the retro court looks. Loewe also works with ceramic artists to create lots of ceramic decorations for the ready-to-wear of this show. These are all in line with Jonathan Anderson's understanding of Spain.
Rose in The Dark Night -- The Catwalk Analysis of Valentino Womenswear
In this series, male and female models are in black, grey, classic Valentino red, low-key indigo and emerald. The clothing starts from basic silhouette to highlight the power of accurate cutting. Valentino, which still shows haute couture technique in the ready-to-wear series, is undoubtedly more low-key than previous seasons, but it is still meticulous about details. The series uses embroidery and print to sketch the realistic florals, adding a lively feel to the calm overcoat and the sleeveless dress.
The Integration of Luxury with Sports -- The Catwalks Analysis of Off-White Womenswear
This season Off-White teams up with Arc'teryx to put on a womenswear show with a theme of "Slighty Off", creating a collection that blends luxury and sports. The collaboration of Off-white with Arc'teryx breaks the stereotype that the outdoor clothing only focuses on functionality but has no distinctive appearance, and the impression that high fashion is dominated by suits, dresses and high heels.
Girls, Move Forward! -- The Catwalk Analysis of Chloé Womenswear
In A/W 20/21 collection of Chloé, Natacha ramsa-levi, the creative director, explores the diverse female world. And she invites sculptor Marion Verboom to present sensual gold totem in the show, and musician Marianne Faithfull to read the classic literature. The iconic concrete lines from painter Rita Ackermann's works are also injected into the design of items and accessories. This season Chloe A/W 20/21 collection blends painting, sculpture and poetry into this show, adopts heather rose, dune, light brown, chestnut, dust blue and caramel, and applies paisley prints, the beaded collar and embroidery for a soft visual feel.
Female Power of "I SAY I" – The Catwalk Analysis of Christian Dior Womenswear
The A/W 2020 collection of Christian Dior keeps speaking out for women. The installation, created by "collective artist" Claire Fontaine, features a newspaper-covered floor and slogans from the late Italian art critic and feminist Carla Lonzi. A series of neon-decorated slogans in the show and the printed headbands display the independent character of modern women. The creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, draws inspirations from her girlhood diaries and integrates with Mr. Dior's beloved check elements. (Checks made up of pastel colors like milk cocoa, light green and warm grey are endowed with more creativity, elegant and nonchalant.) And tassels are prevailing in this season. Maria Grazia Chiuri continues the theme of "female power", speaks out for women, and expresses Dior's free soul of "I SAY I" with fashion.
Liberating Gentle Power -- The Catwalk Analysis of Fendi Womenswear
The A/W 20/21 collection of Fendi kicks off with the psychedelic sound of Alessandro Cortini, Nine Inch Nails's keyboardist. This time Silvia Venturini, the creative director of Fendi, performs the theme of Gentle Power through the combination of structure and softness, and showcases the liberation of wearable female power. This season plus-size models join the catwalk lineup for the first time. The high-waist of the crisp overcoat and the well-fitting dress accentuates female form, which echoes the pink streamlined catwalk. Retro lantern sleeves run through the whole series. Color-blocking and contrasting of classic elements fully display the role switch between boudoir and meeting room. The strap boots with sheepskin cushion and satin high-heeled shoes highlight the vampire-like enchanting temperament, in line with the theme of boudoir. The waisted design, military outerwear with flare sleeves and the crisp fabric present the powerful temperament of females in the meeting room, quite emotional. Fendi's aesthetics balances between sexiness and calmness, toughness and softness, gentleness and power.
A Doll's House in Fairy Tale -- The Catwalks Analysis of Gucci Womenswear
Gucci is always the most dramatic show of Milan Fashion Week. In A/W 2020, the creative director Alessandro Michele opens up the most confidential and private back stage to the public. The catwalk is like a doll house that combines carousel. The dreamlike presenting way and the gorgeous clothing collocation satisfy fans. The series uses a lot of kidswear details, seeming to satisfying kids' curiosity. Lace and velvet are used, which conforms with Belle Époque, one of S/S 2021 theme trends released by POP.
Memories -- The Catwalk Analysis of Burberry Womenswear
Since Riccardo Tisci took charge of Burberry's creative director in 2018, versatility and inclusiveness have made up Burberry's current form. After Kingdom, Tempest and Evolution, Riccardo Tisci takes Memories as the theme of A/W 20/21 Burberry. Images with mirroring and perceptive connotations are secretly displayed before the show. Skin, petal, dew... The shadow created by mirror symmetry sets the keynote of this season. The "Memories" world built by Burberry is like the alternations of virtual and real spaces with overlapping dimensions in the movie, Inception. On the catwalk, twin pianists Katia and Marielle Labeque cooperate with electronic producer Arcaper to put on a bizarre duet. For Riccardo Tisci, this series is a self-recall and reflection on memory, consciousness, perception, psychology and life.
The Confident Wardrobe -- The Catwalk Analysis of Victoria Beckham Womenswear
Victoria Beckham is a high-end fashion brand founded by famous British singer and fashion designer Victoria Beckham in 2008. Victoria Beckham's own fame and her steady middle-class background make her designs unique. The 20/21 A//W series is inspired by that exhausted woman are seeking peace, and creates the style of confident wardrobe. The collection records the return of the black avant-garde silhouette and exposed neckline, negative space rhomboid knitting which is first raised by Stephan Cooke (a young London menswear designer), two pieces of Shetland knitwear (one in cornflower blue, the other in yolk yellow), flares sleeves, the dress with dense and regular smocking stitch, the finely cut check shirt, the skirt with a tough silhouette, and the layered color-blocked overcoat. These all bring a confident femininity of urban office ladies.
Natural Structure -- The Catwalk Analysis of 3.1 Phillip Lim Womenswear
In 2005, Lin Nengping and his partner, Zhou Xuanwen, were both 31 when they co-founded the brand 3.1 Phillip Lim. Initially, with the support of a surf wear company, Lin Nengping began designing his first collection. Retaining the concept of nature, the series was full of many low-key and unique items in natural colors. Environmental protection and charity are concerned topics of the brand.
The Retro Urban Style -- The Catwalk Analysis of Coach 1941 Womenswear
The A/W 20/21 collection of Coach 1941 is from the creative director, Stuart Vevers who joined Coach in 2013. In the new season, Coach still uses the modern technique to reshape a retro vibe and bring vitality of the 1980s New York. In the runway, gorgeous leather in original colors and the mid-length skirt with buckles keep the atmosphere. The brand also keeps the printed Japanese clothing and the old "Yeast Village" style. This season is inspired by a famous downtown legend, Jean-Michel Basquiat. His works and personal style are always the inspiration source of the fashion industry. And his signature pattern appears on the key items, including the oversized leather trench coat, blanket-style wool scarf and a new structure sense.
Decadent Looks -- The Catwalk Analysis of VETEMENTS Womenswear
VETEMENTS is founded by Demna Gvasalia and Guram Gvasalia, a graduate of Royal Academy of Fine Arts. It witnesses the unruly street subculture. It is the benchmark of street brands and often copied by other brands. After Guram Gvasalla's departure, VETEMENTS makes a series of changes, retains its own style but begins to cooperate with other industries like Evian to keep energetic in the depressed market.