Rational data analysis and sensible fashion trends change recommendations bring you a comprehensive and complete analysis of global market changes.
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- Perspective
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2022-06-29 78234
Le Papier -- The Runway Analysis of Jacquemus
Jacquemus headed to the salt marshes of Aigues-Mortes in the south of France for its Fall 2022 “Le Papier” runway show. Matching the salt hills, the collection was largely dipped in shades of white and beige with subtle inserts of rust, olive green and brown. Menswear pieces took form in relaxed suiting, knitwear, technical yet minimal coats and cargo pants. Relaxed constructions have always been a hallmark of Jacquemus menswear, but this collection loosened the silhouettes a bit more. Tailoring served as a collection highlight via reconstructed blazers, asymmetrical hems and layered styling via draped skirts and puffer vests.
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2022-03-31 99566
Yarn & Stitch -- The Comprehensive Runway Analysis of Women's Knitwear
This report focuses on the applications of yarns and stitching skills on the latest runway shows. Beyond the use of common cashmere and wool, we can also see lustrous yarns, fancy yarns, loop yarns and plush yarns. For stitching, fine knitting is breathable and cooling, while exquisite textures are also important. Heavy-gauged stitching are mainly presented in patterns, geos, cables, ottoman and ribs to show volume.
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2022-03-25 91440
Pattern(Part III) -- The Comprehensive Runway Analysis of Womenswear
This report analyzes the application of patterns on womenswear runways and compares the proportion of each element in A/W 21/22 and A/W 22/23. Plaids and flowers still dominate the runway shows. Animal skins, especially leopard spots, continue the momentum in A/W 21/22; mineral textures, landscapes, and human figures have been uptrended through innovative techniques; more Chinese elements are added into folk motifs.
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2022-03-24 92552
Detail & Craft -- The Comprehensive Runway Analysis of Women's Knitwear
Women’s knitwear on A/W 22/23 runway shows focuses on rhinestone, bead, and patchwork to develop more sophisticated pieces. Notably, the patchwork in autumn and winter is crisp and solid. Ruffles, metallic accessories, fringes, hand stitches, and cutouts are the main details.
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2022-03-23 94909
Pattern(Part II) -- The Comprehensive Runway Analysis of Womenswear
This report analyzes the application of patterns on womenswear runways and compares the proportion of each element in A/W 21/22 and A/W 22/23. Plaids and flowers still dominate the runway shows. Animal skins, especially leopard spots, continue the momentum in A/W 21/22; mineral textures, landscapes, and human figures have been uptrended through innovative techniques; more Chinese elements are added into folk motifs.
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2022-03-21 101219
Pattern(Part I) -- The Comprehensive Runway Analysis of Womenswear
This report mainly focuses on outdoor-style patterns on A/W 22/23 runways. Bright plaids, five-pointed stars, and light spot gradient are trending upward clearly. Chains, skin touch, and human figures are applied widely and show a small-scale increase.
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2022-03-21 88402
Leather & Fur -- The Comprehensive Runway Analysis of Womenswear
According to the data analysis of A/W 22/23 ‘Big Four’ fashion weeks, mink reveals a decrease, while faux fur, shearling and cashmere are trending upward. For items, leather jackets and trenches dominate the market. We can see from the new collections that designers pay more attention to practicality and comfort. Multi-occasion silhouettes and extremely comfy designs have been the key factors.
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2022-03-07 98436
Lighthearted -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Hermès
Continuing the lighthearted air, Hermès released the A/W 2022 womenswear collection. The artistic director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski drew equestrian elements from the brand DNA and injected slim-fit tailoring into the clothing design. The use of knitted fabrics allowed the restraint air to be sexy and cool. The whole collection, especially the leather treatment, still reflected the fine artisanship of Hermès. These innovative pieces on the runway expressed the personality of wearer and the unique French romance.
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2022-02-28 84801
Balanced Minimalism -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Jil Sander
Known as ‘the Queen of Less’, Jil Sander continues the focus on developing clothes for middle and upper class women. “We were thinking about elegance,” Lucie said. “We really wanted to focus on sculptural tailoring, almost couture-like, but we like this new energy, a very cropped silhouette.” Come fall the Jil Sander woman will be wearing a wool skirt suit, its jacket sculpted with an hourglass volume and the skirt just peeking out from beneath its hem, or a slightly longer, flippier skirt with a cape-like jacket. The Meiers have made handcrafts—macramé, crochet, and the like—an essential part of their Jil Sander aesthetic.
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2022-02-24 91185
Going Back to the Past -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Fendi
Fendi released its latest A/W 2022 womenswear collection on February 23, 2022. Kim Jones drew inspirations from seeing Delfina Delettrez in the Rome office wearing a blouse of Silvia Venturini’s from a 1986 Fendi collection by Karl Lagerfeld. He combined those references with a callback to another Lagerfeld-designed Fendi collection for spring 2000, one with a delicacy in direct opposition to the blousy proportions of the ’86 show. The graceful, rebellious, and light designs broke the classic conventions. Slip dresses, ruffled gauze tops and dresses exuded a feminine temperament and offered a lithe experience in S/S.
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2022-02-23 65884
Self-awareness -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Jonathan Simkhai
Jonathan Simkhai launched his namesake label in 2010. Fusing women’s gracefulness with masculinity, the designer is known for powerful and charming ready-to-wear. Jonathan Simkhai presents women’s outstanding self-awareness from a feminine perspective. Ethereal fringes, sexy cutouts, wide stripes, and scale sequins are the major elements in this season.
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2022-02-23 67422
Modern Elegancy -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Gabriela Hearst
Driven by her pastoral childhood in Uruguay and design experiences in New York City, the former model Gabriela Hearst added a dignified and elegant sense into her design through natural tones. To convey a low-pace lifestyle, Gabriela Hearst put emphasis on traditional artisanship and the selection of materials. The artworks of Ana Martinez Orizondo were printed on garments. White embroidered panels and hand braiding endowed every pieces of clothing with unique meanings.
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2022-02-22 72720
Tough Women -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Peter Do
The Vietnamese designer Peter Do launched his namesake brand in New York in 2018 after winning the LVMH Prize and working for Celine. Drawing inspirations from menswear design, Peter Do’s smart silhouettes and innovative tailoring reflect his flawless techniques on fabrics. This ready-to-wear collection only used black, white, camel, and gray with architectural lines to show women’s tough power.
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2022-02-18 87480
Color-block Aesthetics -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Tory Burch
Tory Burch set her A/W 22/23 fashion show against a backdrop of midtown Manhattan, with red light from the New Yorker Hotel sign glancing off the runway, like neon reflecting on rainy streets. The idea, she explained, “was to give women a toolbox; I want them to feel they can take this collection and create their own personality with it.”
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2022-02-15 94447
Practical Fashion -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of 3.1 Phillip Lim
Debuted at New York Fashion Week in 2005, 3.1 Phillip Lim was born from a friendship between founders, Phillip Lim and Wen Zhou. Both 31 years of age at its inception, the designer and entrepreneur were pioneers in the accessible luxury space, with the goal of bringing an innovative, elevated, and chic wardrobe to the modern global citizen. The brand has since expanded to include womenswear, menswear, accessories and footwear, with stores in New York, Los Angeles, Hawaii, China, Japan, South Korea and clientele in over 12 countries.
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2022-02-14 83100
'90s Rave -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Ulla Johnson
Ulla Johnson is a namesake fashion brand founded in 2000, featuring sophisticated details and fine tailoring. The designs for business women reveal the street fashion in New York City and draw inspirations from the original urban power. Printing is the signature and DNA of the brand. The Fall 2022 ready-to-wear fashion show in the New York Public Library displayed the installation of Alma Allen’s sculptures and performance by PawPaw Rod. Turtlenecks, handknits, crochets, suede patchwork, and printed dresses bring back the ‘90s raves.