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Infinite Starry Sky -- The Catwalk Analysis of Saicai Womenswear
In the whole A/W 2020 series of Sacai, the theme of "Universe" is not only the open-and-shut starry sky. They choose four from the thousands of images provided by NASA as the inspiration, so in this season we can see the brand turns space into beautiful fashion with the deconstruction design it has always followed. Inspired by the special issue of 2015 NASA, it works with fabric designer Alexander Girard to create a star map made up of mobile phones, letters and numbers. And the lower left corner which was to mark "Alien" presents "SACAI" now. Representative deconstruction and reorganization are used. The key design is combining light silk with high-tech fabric. Different items are combined to create a new silhouette which highlights the ethereal feel. But it doesn't blindly use lightweight fabrics. Instead, it makes use of the balance of fabric combination to design.
Releasing Female Power -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Paris Fashion Week
From "leftover lady", "malechauvinist" to "sexual harassment" and "anti-domestic violence", more and more gender issues have emerged in public debate in recent years, accompanied by a feminist critique. Feminism is a series of knowledge methodology formed around the criticism of human patriarchy, and beyond the specific disciplines and research paradigms. It has become an important part of the social current of thoughts. Throughout the four fashion weeks for A/W 20/21, many brands have mentioned liberating females, female power and feminism, especially Paris Fashion Week. Christian Dior has a theme of "I SAY I" to express female power. Celine tells the story of womenswear during May 1968 events in France. Chanel puts forward the idea of liberation, and launches a series friendly to women. Valentino is the queen of the new minimalism. Miu Miu emphasizes the young lady's wear in the empire collection of the 1940s style. All of them are speaking out for women through fashionable way to show the gender mainstreaming from the perspective of gender equality under the turbulent times.
Girls, Move Forward! -- The Catwalk Analysis of Chloé Womenswear
In A/W 20/21 collection of Chloé, Natacha ramsa-levi, the creative director, explores the diverse female world. And she invites sculptor Marion Verboom to present sensual gold totem in the show, and musician Marianne Faithfull to read the classic literature. The iconic concrete lines from painter Rita Ackermann's works are also injected into the design of items and accessories. This season Chloe A/W 20/21 collection blends painting, sculpture and poetry into this show, adopts heather rose, dune, light brown, chestnut, dust blue and caramel, and applies paisley prints, the beaded collar and embroidery for a soft visual feel.
Female Power of "I SAY I" – The Catwalk Analysis of Christian Dior Womenswear
The A/W 2020 collection of Christian Dior keeps speaking out for women. The installation, created by "collective artist" Claire Fontaine, features a newspaper-covered floor and slogans from the late Italian art critic and feminist Carla Lonzi. A series of neon-decorated slogans in the show and the printed headbands display the independent character of modern women. The creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, draws inspirations from her girlhood diaries and integrates with Mr. Dior's beloved check elements. (Checks made up of pastel colors like milk cocoa, light green and warm grey are endowed with more creativity, elegant and nonchalant.) And tassels are prevailing in this season. Maria Grazia Chiuri continues the theme of "female power", speaks out for women, and expresses Dior's free soul of "I SAY I" with fashion.
Navigation Season -- The Catwalk Analysis of Max Mara Womenswear
Inheritance and innovation are the essence of the A/W 2020 Max Mara show. This season Ian Griffiths draws inspiration from the sailor chic. Michel Foucault says, dreams will dry up without civilization on board. As Ian Griffiths puts it at the start of the show, "This is a romantic trip that starts in Morocco and goes north to Russia". The A/W 2020 collection of Max Mara is very adventurous. The compass marked with the brand name and the sailing ship lead us to experience the charm of the winter sea.
Liberating Gentle Power -- The Catwalk Analysis of Fendi Womenswear
The A/W 20/21 collection of Fendi kicks off with the psychedelic sound of Alessandro Cortini, Nine Inch Nails's keyboardist. This time Silvia Venturini, the creative director of Fendi, performs the theme of Gentle Power through the combination of structure and softness, and showcases the liberation of wearable female power. This season plus-size models join the catwalk lineup for the first time. The high-waist of the crisp overcoat and the well-fitting dress accentuates female form, which echoes the pink streamlined catwalk. Retro lantern sleeves run through the whole series. Color-blocking and contrasting of classic elements fully display the role switch between boudoir and meeting room. The strap boots with sheepskin cushion and satin high-heeled shoes highlight the vampire-like enchanting temperament, in line with the theme of boudoir. The waisted design, military outerwear with flare sleeves and the crisp fabric present the powerful temperament of females in the meeting room, quite emotional. Fendi's aesthetics balances between sexiness and calmness, toughness and softness, gentleness and power.
Minimalist Beauty of Purity -- The Catwalk Analysis of Jil Sander Womenswear
After the "unity of opposites" of S/S 2020 Jil Sander, this season the couple, Lucie and Luke Meier, brings the minimalist beauty of purity. The couple knows models can not fully display the emotion and temperament of clothing by just walking around the catwalk, so they put chairs in the center of the stage for models to sit down. The unique design endows the show with a different emotion. The noble feeling also brings a dramatic moment.
Racing and Sailing -- The Catwalks Analysis of Tommy Hilfiger Womenswear
This season, the New York brand, Tommy Hilfiger, heads to London Fashion Week for its A/W 2020 collection. The brand keeps its vision of "vision to waste nothing and welcome all" and continues its exploration in sustainable fashion. In the A/W 2020 show, Tommy Hilfiger and Lewis Hamilton work together to create a new collection inspired by racers. More than 75% of styles are made in sustainable ways, including 100% organic cotton, recycled materials, down substitute and washed denim. The collection combines the traditional menswear of Tommy Hilfiger and the street style of Lewis Hamilton, and mixes burnt olive, neutral tones with highly saturated neon colors.
A Doll's House in Fairy Tale -- The Catwalks Analysis of Gucci Womenswear
Gucci is always the most dramatic show of Milan Fashion Week. In A/W 2020, the creative director Alessandro Michele opens up the most confidential and private back stage to the public. The catwalk is like a doll house that combines carousel. The dreamlike presenting way and the gorgeous clothing collocation satisfy fans. The series uses a lot of kidswear details, seeming to satisfying kids' curiosity. Lace and velvet are used, which conforms with Belle Époque, one of S/S 2021 theme trends released by POP.
Memories -- The Catwalk Analysis of Burberry Womenswear
Since Riccardo Tisci took charge of Burberry's creative director in 2018, versatility and inclusiveness have made up Burberry's current form. After Kingdom, Tempest and Evolution, Riccardo Tisci takes Memories as the theme of A/W 20/21 Burberry. Images with mirroring and perceptive connotations are secretly displayed before the show. Skin, petal, dew... The shadow created by mirror symmetry sets the keynote of this season. The "Memories" world built by Burberry is like the alternations of virtual and real spaces with overlapping dimensions in the movie, Inception. On the catwalk, twin pianists Katia and Marielle Labeque cooperate with electronic producer Arcaper to put on a bizarre duet. For Riccardo Tisci, this series is a self-recall and reflection on memory, consciousness, perception, psychology and life.
The Confident Wardrobe -- The Catwalk Analysis of Victoria Beckham Womenswear
Victoria Beckham is a high-end fashion brand founded by famous British singer and fashion designer Victoria Beckham in 2008. Victoria Beckham's own fame and her steady middle-class background make her designs unique. The 20/21 A//W series is inspired by that exhausted woman are seeking peace, and creates the style of confident wardrobe. The collection records the return of the black avant-garde silhouette and exposed neckline, negative space rhomboid knitting which is first raised by Stephan Cooke (a young London menswear designer), two pieces of Shetland knitwear (one in cornflower blue, the other in yolk yellow), flares sleeves, the dress with dense and regular smocking stitch, the finely cut check shirt, the skirt with a tough silhouette, and the layered color-blocked overcoat. These all bring a confident femininity of urban office ladies.
Gucci -- Analysis of 19/20 A/W Catwalk Brands of Womenswear
On 22:00, Feb. 20 in Beijing time, Gucci held the 19/20 A/W collection show in Milan. This show's invitation letter is carried by a wooden box which contains a ancient Greek pulp mask. The invitation letter is on the inside of the mask. The location is Gucci Hub. Alessandro Michele used over 120 thousand LED bulbs to make a oval light wall which forms a unit with a mirror catwalk more than 100 meters long.