It was in the lush garden of a bourgeois high school that Glenn Martens unveiled Y/Project‘s collection, which features the brand’s signature elements, from asymmetrical tops cleverly structured by pressure plays to tank tops (and draped dresses) suspended from invisible nylon threads, to extremely large creations with sculptural and ironic shapes, between drapes, undulations and strange blisters. There are also trompe-l’oeil prints, initiated during Glenn Martens’ successful collaboration with Jean-Paul Gaultier.

Presented in the cobblestone courtyard of the historic Via Gesù home of the fashion house’s founder, Gianni Versace, in Milan, the Versace Spring/Summer 2023 collection was full of color and verve. Donatella Versace dug into the archives and pulled out prints her brother Gianni created for La Scala productions in the 90s, a logo from the early 2000s or the frozen-in-lava death masks of Pompeii, all of these revisited archival motifs splashed across t-shirts, silk shirts and pants, alongside stripes, diamond-shaped cut from leather made in eco-sustainable latex and powerfully colorful python prints. The latter, now replacing exotic skins, with fluorescent accents appeared on trench coats or pants. These new eco-friendly fabrics definitely marked the brand’s entry into the era of sustainability.