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The Comprehensive Runway Analysis of Shanghai Kidswear Fashion Week(Part II)
From September 23 to 28, S/S 2023 Shanghai Fashion Week released the fashion trend about kidswear. The KIDS WEAR show displayed the international kidswear trends, supported Chinese original designer brands, and also reflected the unique creativity and attitude of Chinese fashion. Functional technology, active, styling, mini-me, collaboration, social, fashion teens, highlight moments, trendy outfits and environmental protection are the ten main directions for S/S 2023.
The Mud Show -- The Runway Analysis of Balenciaga
For S/S 2023, Balenciaga launched 'The Mud Show' with a lost wallet as invitation. Opening with Kanye wearing a full security rig, models (including Bella Hadid) followed with full force and a desire to power on, splashing through the thick mud and water with determination. Elsewhere, babies were strapped to chests in Balenciaga harnesses, tops were glittery and others were made in latex displaying a 404 Error code. Demna’s viral bag of Lays chips was turned into a pochette, while teddy bears became handheld accessories and another bag was turned into a wearable in the form of a glove.
Celebration, Rebirth -- The Runway Analysis of Off-White
Ibrahim Kamara was named the Image and Art Director of Off-White in April, and now he has debuted his Spring/Summer collection ‘Celebration’. The Spring Summer 2023 collection approaches the cusp of something new, where the unknown gives us the freedom to imagine boundless possibilities. A celebration of life, progress, and new work in process.
The Renaissance -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Balmain
Balmain held its show/festival at Jean-Bouin Stadium in Paris. “We all saw climate change this summer. We all saw fires around the world. And coming back with a show in September, thinking about whether our pants are going to be high-waisted or low-waisted—it seems a bit futile to me.” So said Olivier Rousteing before the show.
Build the Boundaries -- The Comprehensive Detail Analysis of Menswear Runway
The comprehensive analysis of Spring/Summer 2023 men’s runway show will introduce you the detail designs on those key positions: collars, shoulders, plackets, hemlines, waists and leg openings. Besides, laced-up design, buckles, patchwork and pockets are also the noteworthy details.
Textured Touch -- The Comprehensive Craft Analysis of Menswear Runway
POP Fashion digs into the Spring/Summer 2023 men’s runway shows and figures out the most important crafts. Embossed effect, folk braiding, fine carving, 3D flowers, bead embroidery, gorgeous matrix, textured applique and broken patterns are the key points. Fringed edges and faded surface are the recommended fabric techniques. Besides, irregular pleating, overlapping, metallic eyelets, curved cuts and romantic elements are also eye-catching.
A Strange Game -- The Runway Analysis of JW Anderson
In the middle of Soho, on the most packed London Saturday night of all, we plunged into the Vegas video gambling arcade to have our minds bent by Jonathan Anderson. The location was just next door to his JW Anderson flagship store on Wardour Street. His models made a short walk past marshals, crash barriers and hustling crowds into a place where people go for the thrill of gaming the random fates of fortune.
Sunny Romance -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Ulla Johnson
Ulla Johnson Spring 2023 collection drew inspirations from Bryan Lavelle’s bright and saturated abstract paintings. Bryan explores the features of acrylics and oils. The layering and gradually adding the work’s surface forms a patterned and textured aesthetic.
Western World -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Casablanca
With only a few, short years in as a burgeoning design label, Charaf Tajer’s Casablanca has shown no signs of slowing down. For Spring/Summer 2023, the brand upped the ante in Paris and utilized a horse pen stage setting to showcase its western-inspired collection. Working from three different themes – Vaqueros, Phantastica and Nature & Architecture – Tajer presented distinct clothing elements based on an overarching “Future Optimist” approach.
Trompe L'oeil -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Y/Project
It was in the lush garden of a bourgeois high school that Glenn Martens unveiled Y/Project‘s collection, which features the brand’s signature elements, from asymmetrical tops cleverly structured by pressure plays to tank tops (and draped dresses) suspended from invisible nylon threads, to extremely large creations with sculptural and ironic shapes, between drapes, undulations and strange blisters. There are also trompe-l’oeil prints, initiated during Glenn Martens’ successful collaboration with Jean-Paul Gaultier.
Musical Festival -- The Menwear Runway Analysis of Bluemarble
LVMH Prize semi-finalist and upcoming Pierre Bergé prize nominee, Anthony Alvarez, has been making strong headway within the international menswear space. For Spring/Summer 2023 his Bluemarble label presented sophisticated leisure that put soft fabrications and rich colorways at the forefront. Alvarez’s collection included matching sets of half-zip short-sleeved sweaters and shorts, fitted jackets, exterior pocket trousers and relaxed denim.
Tear the Matrix -- The Comprehensive Runway Analysis of Menswear
POP Fashion keeps eyes on Spring/Summer 2023 runway shows and digs into the latest fashion trends. The theme ‘Tear the Matrix’ is divided into four styles: Futurism, Avant-garde Orient, Sporty Streetwear and Restless Summer.
Back to Paris -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Amiri
To evoke a world of endless possibilities and childlike wonder, Mike Amiri chose the beautiful Jardin des Plantes in Paris to unveil his Spring/Summer 2023 collection that once again demonstrates his sense of showmanship and affection for handcrafting. Always a cross between West Coast casual and European chic – his collection is now made between the U.S. and Italy – his suits look so light, helped by the weight and grace of jersey, while the blazers are deconstructed and cut casually – their seams removed to free up traditional shapes and create flouncy volumes inspired as much by sportswear as by stagewear.
Urban Oasis -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Neil Barrett
The utilitarian sophistication of ’90s minimalism has always resonated for Barrett, who has a background in sharp military tailoring. For Spring 2023 he riffed on the consistency of his wardrobe’s strongholds, referencing an urban uniform look and clean-cut, smart sportswear. Inspired by military attire made for extreme weather conditions, garments were structured and engineered to let the body breathe.
Escapist Holiday -- The Comprehensive Runway Analysis of Menswear
POP Fashion gets a comprehensive view of Spring/Summer 2023 runway shows and releases the latest trend of international brands. Themed ‘Escapist Holiday’, this vacay-centric report introduces the following four thematic styles.
New Classicism -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Versace
Presented in the cobblestone courtyard of the historic Via Gesù home of the fashion house’s founder, Gianni Versace, in Milan, the Versace Spring/Summer 2023 collection was full of color and verve. Donatella Versace dug into the archives and pulled out prints her brother Gianni created for La Scala productions in the 90s, a logo from the early 2000s or the frozen-in-lava death masks of Pompeii, all of these revisited archival motifs splashed across t-shirts, silk shirts and pants, alongside stripes, diamond-shaped cut from leather made in eco-sustainable latex and powerfully colorful python prints. The latter, now replacing exotic skins, with fluorescent accents appeared on trench coats or pants. These new eco-friendly fabrics definitely marked the brand’s entry into the era of sustainability.
Surfing Culture -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Dsquared2
Taking to Milan, the Caten duo Dean and Dan have showcased DSQUARED2’s vibrant Spring/Summer 2023 Menswear collection. Paying homage to the Bob Marley Foundation, the collection features everything from 70s-inspired outerwear to the symbolic use of colours in the Jamaican flag (yellow, black and green). In an additional collaboration with Honda motorcycles, Dsquared2 combine their Marley inspiration with two starkly contrasting personas; the relaxed surfer and the rambunctious biker. And while a junction between the musical legend and the motorcycle company may seem a little odd at first, there’s actually a deep-rooted vein that joins the two together in perfect harmony – the designers aimed to symbolise both the vibe and rebellion of Marley’s time, surf culture, and 1970s Jamaica.
Tropical Accent -- The Comprehensive Analysis of Miami Swim Week
POP Fashion digs into the runway data of S/S 2023 Miami Swim Week - a globe-leading event that offers the latest trends of swimwear. Ripples and stripes take the place of floral elements and animal prints. The combination of sporty style and swimwear becomes a noteworthy direction.
Light Summer -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of Hermès
Lightness and pleasure, two notions closely associated with summer vacations, were the focus of the Hermès Men’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection that took place at the historic tapestry factory Manufacture des Gobelins. In the mood for vacation – “a magical destination that is both joyful and serene“, in the words of the French fashion house’s press release – Véronique Nichanian sent a plethora of marine-themed pieces down the runway.
Nautical College -- The Runway Analysis of KENZO
For the KENZO Spring/Summer 2023 collection, artistic director Nigo dips into the archives with silhouettes and motifs that allude to the designer’s discovery of the brand and the fashion landscape he was exposed to as a teen. Most of all, the collection showcases an array of de- and re-constructed pieces of the iconography of Kenzo Takada, and finds inspiration from the DC Brand Boom of 1980s Japan where colorful and cartoon-ish animal motifs meshed with the fashion culture of Paris—the spirit of SS23.
Born in Oasi Zegna -- The Menswear Runway Analysis of ZEGNA
The ZEGNA Summer 2023 Fashion Show was presented live from Oasi Zegna, the home of the brand values and 100 sq.km nature park. Always looking ahead while keeping track of roots, it is here that Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori introduces new shapes and textures as he builds an evolving language in style. Rooted in sartorial ethic, his elevated wardrobe is attuned to the here and now. “My work stems from one single question: what’s next for tailoring and for the needs and the fast-paced lives of today?"