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2024-02-29 22095
Retro Elegance -- The Women's Runway Analysis of Christian Dior
This season, Chiuri will feature "Miss Dior" as the theme. These words appear prominently in her 24/25 autumn/winter collection in handwritten style, but what looks like graffiti ultimately proves to be different. As she explained at the press conference, this is an enlarged version of the Christian Dior archive logo, a hand-painted advertising artwork created for the opening of the now forgotten "Miss Dior" boutique in 1967.
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2023-10-25 68469
Practical and Playful -- The Women's Runway Analysis of LOEWE
Jonathan Anderson, Creative Director of LOEWE's 2024 Spring/Summer Women's Wear Collection, adopts the design concept of "embracing randomness" and takes us into a chaotic and possible mental state through experiments, hallucinations, and sidekicks. In this process, daily clothing has undergone a subversive interpretation, presenting a bold, bizarre, and interesting side. The sparkling brooches that make up the top, the playful and vibrant star brooches, and oversized pins all showcase the creativity and ingenuity of designers. These unique elements infuse fashion with depth and texture, making it strange and interesting, like an extraordinary adventure to explore fashion elements.
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2023-10-24 75158
Unclean Bookworm - The Women's Runway Analysis of Miu Miu
The Miu Miu 2024 Spring/Summer collection was slowly staged on the last day of Paris Fashion Week at the Palais d'Iena in Paris. This season, Miuccia Prada teamed up with artist Sophia Al Maria to reflect on existing definitions and respond to modern aesthetics with the theme of "The Law of Beauty". Nowadays, Miu Miu girls are no longer a projection of certain fantasies. By mixing and matching atypical fashion styles, they break away from the fantasies of the elite class and become more concrete.
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2023-04-23 70278
Valkyrie Miss Dior -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Christian Dior
Dior kicked off Paris Fashion Week with its autumn/winter 2023 show, and while guests may have come for the clothes, they left mesmerised by a twinkling, floating, floral installation that filled the inside of the show venue. Created by the Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos, the dreamlike work – titled Valkyrie Miss Dior – took six months to design and build.
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2023-03-10 89596
Subtle Sophistication -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Miu Miu
For Fall/Winter 2023, the House took to Paris Fashion Week to continue its efforts in creating it-girl bags and garments, while also putting the focus on cozy essentials elevated for the off-duty casual-chic attitude that oozes out of Miu Miu’s walls. This season, Mrs. Prada dives into the notion of “looking,” in turn uncovering what is “underneath” and addressing the “outer” layers of clothing construction, and the structure of how we dress.
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2023-03-10 77567
Camellia Motif -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Chanel
Virginie Viard has been inspired by the camellia as a signature design motif throughout the history of the Parisian fashion house for her Fall 2023 ready-to-wear collection. The presentation was an exercise in reduction, with the vast majority of looks being created in grayscale, save for a few accents of dusty rose throughout. “The camellia is more than a theme, it’s an eternal code of the House,” explained Viard on her inspiration from the flower.
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2023-03-09 69642
Black Tie -- The Runway Analysis of Valentino
Pierpaolo Piccioli is re-writing the codification of Valentino. Black tie is a dress code, a restrictive factor of attire that must be adhered to. It’s a faux pas to digress from the expected norms when required to follow the code, and it is something that is habitually ingrained in the sartorial world. With this in mind, black tie is seldom subverted, but that is exactly what Valentino has done.
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2023-03-08 70121
Deception & Mystique -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of LOEWE
Set inside the walls of a chateau, Anderson and LOEWE created their now-signature stark space and adorned it with Lara Favaretto-designed confetti squares, decorating the space in a vibrant splash of color. Trompe-l’œil came to fore right off the bat. Feathers, glittering coats, jumpers manipulated to keep an unkempt shape, trousers as booties, and a whole host of leather subsequently rounded out yet another standout show from Anderson.
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2023-03-03 64801
Futuristic Mysticism -- The Women's Runway Analysis of Acne Studios
Acne Studios transports you into a mystical world that begins in a fantasy forest featuring poisonous vines and roots. Divine flora and sparkling tree sap set the tone for an ominous showcase of the collection as models emerge from the darkness. The collection invites audiences into its futuristic world, rooted in nature and filled with the topography of a forest.
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2022-10-13 99472
Celebration, Rebirth -- The Runway Analysis of Off-White
Ibrahim Kamara was named the Image and Art Director of Off-White in April, and now he has debuted his Spring/Summer collection ‘Celebration’. The Spring Summer 2023 collection approaches the cusp of something new, where the unknown gives us the freedom to imagine boundless possibilities. A celebration of life, progress, and new work in process.
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2022-10-10 80543
Large-scale Futurism -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Louis Vuitton
Staged once again in the majestic surroundings of the Louvre in Paris, Louis Vuitton’s Spring-Summer 2023 Collection is unveiled in the museum’s Cour Carrée. For the first time, Nicolas Ghesquière has invited leading French contemporary artist Philippe Parreno and production designer James Chinlund to conceptualize the event’s spectacular set design. With metal grills, mirrors, and a myriad of lightbulbs that evoke a fairground attraction, the set is centered upon a vividly red “monster flower” with golden stamen that rise up dramatically into the Parisian sky.
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2022-10-09 72993
Unboxing Valentino -- The Runway Analysis of Valentino
Themed ‘Unboxing Valentino’, creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli ditches PP pink and returns to essence of clothing. The cutting is inspired by the sliced paintings of Lucio Fontana. Dreamy feathers, eye-catching sequins and soft sheer bring fun to the pure fashion design.
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2022-10-09 67060
Natural Minimalism -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Stella McCartney
Presented at the Centre Pompidou piazza during Paris Fashion Week, the Stella McCartney Spring Summer 2023 runway show is a democratic demonstration outdoors; a brand first. Models walk coloured paths, paying homage to the French cultural hub’s iconic façade. Blending fashion and art, the collection features the work of legendary Japanese artist Yoshitomo Nara – inspired by his slogan “CHANGE THE HISTORY”.
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2022-09-23 77335
The Blue Horizon -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Max Mara
Max Mara Spring/Summer 2023 collection continued the minimalist mindset and fluid tailoring to display the timeless Italian fashion and a cozy vacay style. The sunny blue coastline exuded the atmosphere of Riviera style. It focused on Renée Perle, a lover and much-snapped subject of early alpha-photographer Jacques-Henri Lartigue. Then there was Eileen Gray, who designed her own feminocratic ideal of the modernist house, the Villa E-1027 in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, France, in 1929.
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2022-06-30 72802
Chaotic Neutral -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of We11Done
We11done’s FW22 collection is a “chaotic neutral” space where nothing is off limits, and opportunities are endless. The South Korean label’s newest show is inspired by a dichotomy between 17th century renaissance details and futuristic minimalism - two aesthetics that could be polarizing in theory, but somehow appear synchronous.
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2022-03-15 68690
Colorful Daywear -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Nina Ricci
A/W 22/23 was the first collection of Nana Baehr for the brand. Tailored daywear, colorful sweater, and printed dress were the staples. The cloak design was inspired by the fashion in 1960s. Besides, two-in-one hall bucket hats and transparent handbags also enlivened this colorful collection.
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2022-03-10 93914
Eternal Continuity -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Miu Miu
Muccia Prada took an unconventional route with an energetic soundtrack and youthful clay animation that marked the end of Paris Fashion Week with Miu Miu's show Fall/Winter 2022. In collaboration with artist duo Nathalie Djurberg and Hans Berg, the show was founded on "the animated monster in our repression and anxiety... [and] an encounter with the real other." Finding the intersection between sexy and preppy, Miu Miu silk boxers were layered under mini skirts, scrunched ribbed socks were paired with ballet flats, and there was no shortage of leather. Engulfing snow-white fur, long white ribbons tied around necks, and endless belt variations accessorized the monochrome ensembles.
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2022-03-09 70654
Pay Homage to the Classic -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of LANVIN
Drawing inspiration from the unlikely pairing of Art Deco and Ancient Egypt, Sialelli drew connections in design and architecture: jacquard patterns and opulent beaded embroidery spoke of the former while Jeanne Lanvin’s love of Egypt was realised via a mix of jewellery inspired by ancient art, sphinx prints and sci-fi shapes inspired by Dune that raced the sands of time.
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2022-03-07 98462
Lighthearted -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Hermès
Continuing the lighthearted air, Hermès released the A/W 2022 womenswear collection. The artistic director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski drew equestrian elements from the brand DNA and injected slim-fit tailoring into the clothing design. The use of knitted fabrics allowed the restraint air to be sexy and cool. The whole collection, especially the leather treatment, still reflected the fine artisanship of Hermès. These innovative pieces on the runway expressed the personality of wearer and the unique French romance.
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2021-10-22 93235
High-end Urban Sportswear -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of LACOSTE
Founded in 1933, LACOSTE has been representing for relaxation and elegancy. Being obsessed by sporty symbols and cultural observation, Louise Trotter's active designs create a high-end sports fashion. Her S/S 2022 collection was born of the habit that Louise has been biking to her office throughout 2020 and 2021. These sporty, lively silhouettes from the looks of street bikers reflected complementary people's desire for going out. LACOSTE accentuated the warm tones. Bright Poppy Red, wine red, orange, and Rattan were rather active on the street. Classic rubber tennis skirts and breathable vests all used innovative fabrics, while printed stripes presented liveliness through different colorways. Functional details are paired with sharp color conflicts. Buckled bags and sneakers with elastic ropes inject functionality and practicality into our daily lives.
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2021-10-11 82961
Into a New Dimension: Life -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of VALENTINO
The designer Pierpaolo Piccioli decided to get Valentino into a new dimension: life. To mark the return of Valentino's ready-to-wear to Paris, he took over the old marketplace at the Carreau du Temple, and a row of neighboring cafés and restaurants opposite, to put on a joyful all-gendered show reunion symbolically blurring the distinctions between insiders and outsiders. The opening look, an organdy flower-embroidered blouse and tiny skirt, referred to Valentino Garavani's all-white collection of 1968—immortalized in a photograph of Marisa Berenson. There was a reproduction of a slim, tiger-striped maxi coat, famously worn by Veruschka the following year—and to end with, a pair of floaty, flower-printed dresses from the '70s. Designer pitched the production towards embracing Gen Zers with a proposition of a beautiful, casualized couture wardrobe designed to float between genders: lightweight taffeta tailoring in vivid colors, plethoras of dresses from minuscule and cutaway to sweeping, embroidered caftans. The mini-maxi proportion play—like billowy volumes teamed with micro-shorts—provided a translated house glamour that captured everything the TikTok generation might relate to.
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2021-10-11 68446
Hysterical -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of LOEWE
The latest collection of LOEWE was staged at the equestrian training arena of La Garde Républicaine, a historic location in the centre of Paris. Inspired by The Deposition from the Cross, painted by the Italian Mannerist artist Jacopo Pontormo in Florence 1528, the designer Jonathan Anderson said,"Neurotic, psychedelic, and completely hysterical." of his S/S 2022 collection. He tried to break the rules of LOEWE and explored the concept of draping, sculpture and color by distortion to create a new LOEWE.
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2021-10-10 69007
Red Carpet -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Balenciaga
Balenciaga S/S 2022 ready-to-wear collection, titled Red Carpet, was released at the Théâtre du Châtelet in Paris. The first part of the show was a photocall on a Hollywood-style red carpet. And guests wearing the new collection pause on the walkway before being ushered into a theater screening the short film The Simpsons I Balenciaga. The Simpsons for Balenciaga is the latest in a progression of activations that push certain boundaries set up between fashion and other forms of entertainment, culture and technology, shifting the brand away from an easily definable category.
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2021-10-09 75421
A Grand Ball of Time -- The Womenswear Runway Analysis of Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton held a grand ball of time in the Louvre. The artistic director Nicolas Ghesquière continued his unique understanding of architecture and couture. The design of architectural silhouettes brought the gorgeous romanticism of the 19th century to the present. Rococo bustle and gorgeous beaded embroidery were the elements in the retro court. The combination with modern elements as mask-like sunglasses, denim and cargo pants provided us with a time journey.